The object of this study was to identify microscopic differences among six selected cultivars of harakeke traditionally used by Maori in weaving. The cultivars were Arawa, Makaweroa, Paretaniwha, Takaiapu, Takirikau, and Tapamangu. The effectiveness of different microscopy techniques for taking measurements of the dimensions of ultimate fibres using a factorial experimental design was investigated in part A. Constant variables were geographical location, location of specimens along the leaf, season (winter), individual plant, fan, north-facing fan, and age of plant (approximately seven years), and cultivars (Paretaniwha and Tapamangu). Experimental variables were the microscopy techniques used and measurement axis. Techniques selected use on further cultivars in part B were transverse sections of leaf specimens 4 m thick, embedded in Paraplast� and observed using LM, and non-fixed ultimate fibres observed using SEM. In part B the dimensions of ultimate fibres from the six selected cultivars of harakeke were measured, and analysed (ANOVA and Tukey's HSD), and the transverse section shapes of fibre aggregates were observed. Transverse widths of ultimate fibres ranged from 10.15 m (Takaipu) -12.80 m (Paretaniwha). Ultimate fibre lengths ranged from 3735 m (Takirikau) - 4751 m (Makaweroa). The cultivars prizes for muka, Arawa and Makaweroa, had the longest and finest ultimate fibre bundles more uniform in transverse-sectional shape than the other cultivars studied and perhaps this explains their selection for extraction of muka. Takirikau had a high yield of ultimate fibre bundles, and perhaps this makes extraction of muka worthwhile. Paretaniwha differed from the other five cultivars studied having an average number of ultimate fibre bundles per unit width that were narrow and non-uniform in shape, and composed of short, thick, ultimate fibre cells. The microscopic structure of muka from six selected cultivars of harakeke used traditionally for weaving varied and may explain differences perceived by weavers, and that different end uses are preferred for various cultivars.

A method used to calculate the fundamental properties that predict the overall wicking performance of a fabric was proposed and executed. The combination of a horizontal and downward wicking test provided detailed measurements of the pertinent properties to wicking performance: capillary pressure and permeability. This method was proposed due to flaws found in standard vertical wicking tests as well as erroneous assumptions made in other wicking tests. Assumptions that capillary pressure and permeability are characteristic constants of porous structures are incorrect and will produce misleading information about that substrate. It was experimentally proven that these properties were a function of the saturation level found within the voids of a fabric. To obtain relevant capillary pressure and permeability data for a given fabric, a range of saturation levels were tested and analyzed. It was shown that saturation levels decreased as the vertical distance traveled by moisture increased. This phenomenon occurs as a result of capillary pressure within the voids dropping below the functional range needed to support flow in those voids at increasing heights. As height is increased, capillary pressure needs to also increase; therefore, only smaller radii pores will fill. Once saturation levels are known at specific heights, capillary pressure and permeability calculations were made using Darcys law and the Lucas-Washburn equation. Although this phenomenon is well known in civil engineering, it has not been widely addressed in the textile sciences, especially in its implications for wicking tests.

Thesis (M. Phil.)--University of Hong Kong, 2001. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 163-167).

Tez (Yüksek Lisans) - Süleyman Demirel Üniversitesi, Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Tekstil Mühendisliği Anabilim Dalı, 2008. / Kaynakça var.

Tez (Yüksek Lisans) - Süleyman Demirel Üniversitesi, Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Tekstil Mühendisliği Anabilim Dalı, 2008. / Kaynakça var.

published_or_final_version / abstract / toc / Electrical and Electronic Engineering / Master / Master of Philosophy

published_or_final_version / Electrical and Electronic Engineering / Master / Master of Philosophy

No description available.

No description available.

This thesis focuses on the production and display of weavings made by a small number of Musqueam women, who in the 1980s began weaving in the tradition of their ancestors. It addresses the way in which these weavings, positioned throughout Vancouver and worn in public settings, build a visual presence to counter the exclusion of Coast Salish cultural representations from the public construction of history in Vancouver and the discourse of Northwest Coast art. The Vancouver International Airport and the Museum of Anthropology at the University o f British Columbia both share with Musqueam a history of place. A distinct relationship fostered between Museum staff and members of the Musqueam community has yielded several exhibits since the first, Hands of Our Ancestors: The Revival of Weaving at Musqueam, opened in 1986. The presence of Musqueam material at the Museum is part of an extensive history of interaction and negotiation between Canadian museums and the cultural communities whose histories, traditions and material culture are represented - a history which encompasses issues of representation, authorship and authority. The Vancouver International Airport is also situated on Musqueam traditional territory. Designed by representatives from the Musqueam Cultural Committee and the Airport project team, the international arrivals area features works of contemporary Musqueam artists which are intended to create a sense of place with an emphasis on the distinctiveness of its location. Travelers cross several thresholds in the terminal - the sequence o f these crossings carefully choreographed so that deplaning passengers pass from the non-space of international transience to a culturally specific space marked by Musqueam's cultural representations, and then past Customs into Canada. Certain incidents at these sites indicate that visibility and self-representation do not in themselves answer the problems of power and history. When the Museum of Anthropology hosted a meeting for leaders of the Asia Pacific Economic Community in 1997, a newly implemented protocol agreement between Musqueam and the Museum was broken; and in a number of instances, achievements at the Airport have also been impaired. Despite these limits, weavings are not examples of token native inclusion as some critics argue. Rather, they are cultural representations strategically deployed by the Musqueam community. Enlarged from traditional blankets to monumental hangings, these weavings participate with other more recognized monumental Northwest Coast forms. They are visual, public signifiers of Musqueam identity which, without violating boundaries between public and private knowledge, carry messages from the community to a broader audience - messages intended to mark Musqueam's precedence in Vancouver's past as well as to claim visibility in the present.