No description available.

No description available.

No description available.

No description available.

The Navahos have undergone extensive culture change through acculturation that began with their conquest and containment by the U. S. government in 1863. This is not the complete explanation for all Navaho culture change. For instance, in the area of arts, innovation or internallyderived change is evidenced by the replacement of traditional approaches to weaving design by designs that had been exclusively relegated to ceremonial usage within the context of the sandpainting medium.It is the purpose of this work to examine the artist's role during this transition period to determine what internal factors affected the changes. Historical accounts offer ethnographic information concerning the innovation of four design types that had traditionally been exclusively used in ritual as sandpainting designs. This information will be presented and used in an analysis of the weaver in Navaho society; the role of the ritual specialist; the function of weaving in Navaho society and group response to weaving and the weaver. Finally, an appraisal of the specific cases with respect to the analytical framework will be offered in conclusion to validate the role of internal innovation.

The axilla is a major source of human body odour from which the characteristic musky, urinous or acidic odours emanate, and are predominantly due to bacterial metabolism of the protein-rich fluid secreted by the apocrine and sebaceous glands located in this area (Senol and Fireman, 1999). Clothing has been implicated in contributing to body odour intensity, possibly even increasing the intensity (Dravnieks, et al., 1968; Shelley, et al., 1953) by the transfer of secretions, skin debris and bacteria from the body to the fabric substrate. Despite much anecdotal evidence indicating that some fibres and fabrics are better at limiting odour intensity than others, there appears to be no published research confirming this. The purpose of this study therefore, was to determine whether fabrics varying in fibre content (cotton, wool, polyester) and fabric knit structure (interlock, single jersey, 1x1 rib) differed in the extent to which they retained and emanated axillary odour following wear, and whether the intensity of odour was linked to the number of bacteria transferred to the fabrics. A procedure for collecting odour on fabrics was developed as was a method for evaluating odour through use of a sensory panel. Total aerobic bacteria and aerobic coryneform bacteria extracted from the fabrics were counted to determine if an association between bacterial counts and fabrics existed. Sensory analysis recognises the unique capability of humans as odour-detecting instruments whereas, instrumental analysis has the potential to offer information on the concentration and identification of axillary compounds, which a human assessor cannot. To investigate a new method for detecting axillary odour on apparel fabrics, proton transfer reaction mass spectrometry (PTR-MS) was used to analyse volatiles emitted from fabrics differing in fibre type. After removal of garments from the human body, axillary odour can be detected on fabrics, with the intensity of odour being strongly influenced by the fibre type from which the fabrics had been made. Polyester fabrics emanated odour of high intensity, cotton that of mid-low odour intensity, and wool fabrics were low odour. Fabric structural properties such as thickness, mass per unit area and openness of knit structure also had an effect on odour intensity. However, as the principal factor influencing odour intensity was fibre, only fabrics characterised by a high intensity (i.e. polyester) were influenced by structural properties. Differences in odour intensity among fabrics were not necessarily related to bacterial numbers, and no �inherent antimicrobial� properties were evident for any of the fabrics. Bacterial populations persisted in all fabrics up to 28 days. A decline in numbers was apparent for high-odour polyester fabrics, while numbers in low-odour wool fabrics remained relatively stable. PTR-MS detected compounds likely to be short-chain carboxylic acids which increased in the headspace above the polyester fabrics after 7 days. However, this increase was not evident for either the wool or cotton fabrics. Therefore, bacterial numbers per se cannot be a predictor of the odour intensity emanating from fabrics at least on the basis of these fabrics and fibres. The intensity of axillary odour emanating from fabrics was found inversely related to fibre hygroscopicity. Keywords:fibre content, fabric structure, axillary odour, sensory analysis, bacteria, corynebacteria, instrumental analysis, PTR-MS

The object of this study was to identify microscopic differences among six selected cultivars of harakeke traditionally used by Maori in weaving. The cultivars were Arawa, Makaweroa, Paretaniwha, Takaiapu, Takirikau, and Tapamangu. The effectiveness of different microscopy techniques for taking measurements of the dimensions of ultimate fibres using a factorial experimental design was investigated in part A. Constant variables were geographical location, location of specimens along the leaf, season (winter), individual plant, fan, north-facing fan, and age of plant (approximately seven years), and cultivars (Paretaniwha and Tapamangu). Experimental variables were the microscopy techniques used and measurement axis. Techniques selected use on further cultivars in part B were transverse sections of leaf specimens 4 m thick, embedded in Paraplast� and observed using LM, and non-fixed ultimate fibres observed using SEM. In part B the dimensions of ultimate fibres from the six selected cultivars of harakeke were measured, and analysed (ANOVA and Tukey's HSD), and the transverse section shapes of fibre aggregates were observed. Transverse widths of ultimate fibres ranged from 10.15 m (Takaipu) -12.80 m (Paretaniwha). Ultimate fibre lengths ranged from 3735 m (Takirikau) - 4751 m (Makaweroa). The cultivars prizes for muka, Arawa and Makaweroa, had the longest and finest ultimate fibre bundles more uniform in transverse-sectional shape than the other cultivars studied and perhaps this explains their selection for extraction of muka. Takirikau had a high yield of ultimate fibre bundles, and perhaps this makes extraction of muka worthwhile. Paretaniwha differed from the other five cultivars studied having an average number of ultimate fibre bundles per unit width that were narrow and non-uniform in shape, and composed of short, thick, ultimate fibre cells. The microscopic structure of muka from six selected cultivars of harakeke used traditionally for weaving varied and may explain differences perceived by weavers, and that different end uses are preferred for various cultivars.

Dissertation (Ph.D.)--Auburn University, 2006. / Abstract. Vita. Includes bibliographic references.

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1987. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaf 27).

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1990. / Includes bibliographical references (leaf 40).