This diploma thesis is focused on the development of organic UV filters. Organic UV filters were extracted from natural resources and encapsulated into nanomaterial-like delivery systems such as liposomes and nanofibres. SPF of particular extracts and carriers with encapsulated extracts were measured. All of the prepared extracts as well as carriers were characterised for their content of natural substances like phenolic compounds and their antioxidant acitvity, stability, cytotoxicity, micriobial acitivity and their safety were studied too. All of the prepared materials were evaluated as suitable for use in comestic industry. However, in a future, it would be appropriate to add to the study other experimental methods to increase the active substances and at the same time increase the SPF protection factor.

No description available.

Les substances pharmaceutiques et les produits de soin utilisés pour la protection de la santé humaine sont retrouvés dans tous les compartiments du milieu aquatique. Certaines de ces substances présentent des caractéristiques physico-chimiques ou pharmacologiques suggérant une capacité à se bioaccumuler comme les filtres UV EHMC et OC aux log Kow supérieurs à 5 ou les benzodiazépines diazépam et tétrazépam aux log de Kow de 2,82 et 3,20. L'objectif de ce travail de thèse a été d'évaluer la contamination des moules par 3 filtres UV et de 2 benzodiazépines. Pour cela, une méthode analytique a été mise au point et validée pour le dosage de ces substances dans les moules. Le dosage de l'EHMC et de l'OC a montré qu'en milieu côtier la contamination des moules in situ provient majoritairement des activités récréatives en période estivale et que cette contamination est augmentée dans des zones semi-fermées. Des expérimentations de bioaccumulation sur ces deux substances ont montré que les moules ne bioaccumulent pas ces filtres UV ; elles reflètent les niveaux de contamination en temps réel. Les niveaux de benzodiazépines dans les moules ne sont pas détectables en milieu côtier. Des expérimentations en conditions contrôlées ont montré que les moules absorbent les benzodiazépines. Cependant, elles les éliminent et probablement les métabolisent. L'utilisation de moules pour l'étude de la contamination par des substances émergentes permet l'identification de zones ou de périodes à risque élevé. / Pharmaceutical and personal care products used for human health protection are detected in all aquatic ecosystems. Among them, some compounds have physico-chemical or pharmacological properties that suggest a bioaccumulation capability. It’s the case of the UV filters, EHMC and OC, with log Kow higher than 5 or pharmaceuticals like diazepam and tetrazepam, with log Kow higher than 2.82. The aim of these Phd works was to assess marine mussels contamination for UV filters and benzodiazepines. So, a new analytical method was developed and validated for the determination of these compounds in mussels. EHMC and OC analysis realized in mussels sampled in French coastal waters showed that mainly contamination came from recreational activities in summer season, and that semi-closed areas were more contaminated. Moreover, laboratory experiments showed that mussels had clearly not bioaccumulate these 2 UV filters. Contamination levels in mussels are controlled by water concentrations. Conversely, benzodiazepines were not detected in coastal mussels. However, laboratory experiments showed an accumulation of benzodiazepines in mussels, suggesting elimination and metabolization means. Mussels are nevertheless usefull bioindicators of marine contamination by emerging compounds, allowing to characterize higher risk areas or periods.

The presented diploma thesis is focused on preparation of nanoparticles and nanofibres with natural UV filters. Liposomes with encapsulated aqueous, ethanol and lipid extracts were prepared. Nanofibers from PHB containing lipid extract were prepared too. As a part of this work, an overview of natural sources with potential effects as UV filters were introduced. Moreover, nanoparticles and nanofibers and methods of their characterization were described. Size, polydisperse index and colloid stability of prepared nanoparticles were characterized via DLS. In experimental part aqueous, ethanol and lipid extracts were prepared from roasted coffee, green coffee and cascara. These extracts were spectrophotometrically characterized for the content of polyphenols, flavonoids, antioxidant activity, tannins and their SPF. Liposomes and liposomes containing PHB with these extracts were prepared and the encapsulation effectivity, short–term and long–term stability as well as SPF of nanoparticles were determined. Nanofibers from PHB containing lipid extracts were prepared via electrospinning and forcespinning methods. Prepared nanofibers were examined via FTIR–ATR. Antioxidant activity, short–term and long–term stability were determined spectrophotometrically. From selected nanoparticles, emulsions and gels were prepared and their SPF was also determined. Three types of emulsions with the best SPF were selected and tested on volunteers. Sedimentation stability of emulsions was tested by analytical centrifuge. Finally, cytotoxicity of selected nanoparticles and nanofibers was tested via MTT assay using human keratinocytes.

The aim of this diploma thesis was create a natural BB cream that, in addition to sufficient hydration, would protect the skin from sunlight, unify its colour tone and at the same time sufficiently cover any imperfections. After proposition a suitable recipe, it was necessary to determine the stability of the prepared BB creams. The stability was evaluated by comparing the results from the dispersion analyser LUMiSizer at various temperatures and current load tests in an oven. The pseudoplastic properties were confirmed by the rheology characterization of the flow properties, which makes the BB cream a continuous layer on the skin after it is spread. In order to protect against sunlight, it was necessary to determine the SPF and measure the colour shades of the prepared BB creams for comparison with commercially available preparations.

This presented diploma thesis is focuses on preparation and characterization of biomaterials with natural UV filters. The theoretical part is aimed at effects of sunlight on the skin and how to avoid these effects by using cosmetic products. The materials and methods for extraction of lipid part of the selected vegetable and microorganism species and methods for preparation and characterization of nanoparticles and emulsions were characterized. The practical part deals with extraction of lipid part of selected vegetable and microorganism species. The liposome particles with encapsulated active compounds were prepared. The particle size, polydispersity index, colloidal stability, encapsulation efficiency, SPF, antioxidant capacity, phospholipid content and cytotoxic effect on human keratinocytes were observed. These particles were used for preparation of the resulting emulsions. Their protection level on UV light were set and stability were tested by using analytical centrifugation.

No description available.

Ultraviolet filters are active ingredients in sunscreen that protect us from harmful UV radiation. However, organic UV filters are thought to have adverse effects on the environment and humans. In recent years, fear of harmful impacts of sunscreen has caused a surge of coral reef safe sunscreens to hit the market. These sunscreens, which contain inorganic metal oxides as UV filters, have been accepted as safe for humans and the environment until recently. Metal oxides in reef safe sunscreens may form intermediates in the water that can harm marine life and can absorb through the skin and into the blood, possibly disrupting normal bodily function. In this study, a 48-hour bioassay was run with Artemia salina and various UV filters at different concentrations to determine at what levels of exposure and to which UV filters the organism is sensitive. Three trials were run with one organism in each of the 200 bioassay wells and 20 replicates per treatment. At each data collection time, organism survival outcomes were recorded. Results showed significant difference between trials but not between treatments. This project serves to research the impact sunscreen has on A. salina and potential environmental and human health impacts.

O uso de formulações fotoprotetoras tem aumentando muito nas últimas décadas devido ao maior conhecimento dos danos causados pela radiação UV e maior preocupação com o fotoenvelhecimento. Desta maneira observa-se um grande esforço por parte dos pesquisadores e indústrias para o desenvolvimento de novos filtros solares estáveis, eficazes e que agradem ao consumidor. Neste contexto destaca-se o fosfato de cério (CePO4), substância proposta para ser utilizada como filtro solar inorgânico devido a sua alta absortividade no UV, além de apresentar baixa atividade fotocatalítica e relativa transparência na luz visível, diferente dos filtros inorgânicos comumente utilizados em fotoprotetores. Assim o objetivo do presente trabalho foi o desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade e das propriedades fotoprotetoras de formulações cosméticas contendo CePO4. Inicialmente realizou-se a caracterização dos filtros solares inorgânicos em estudo para um melhor conhecimento das características do material. Posteriormente foi desenvolvida uma formulação base (F8) na qual se associou uma combinação de filtros orgânicos (F8A) a qual foi acrescida de filtros inorgânicos ZnO, TiO2 e CePO4 (F8B, F8C e F8D, respectivamente). Após a realização de testes preliminares de estabilidade, as formulações foram submetidas à avaliação da estabilidade física (reologia) e química (CLAE). Ainda, a atividade fotocatalítica destas formulações foi avaliada para verificar a influência dos filtros inorgânicos objeto de estudo na estabilidade da formulação. Observou-se que a formulação contendo CePO4 além de apresentar superior estabilidade, quando comparada com os tradicionais filtros inorgânicos, ainda demonstrou menor atividade fotocatalítica no veículo a qual foi acrescida. Em seguida a segurança das formulações foi avaliada por meio de ensaios de citotoxicidade em culturas de fibroblastos 3t3 e teste de irritabilidade cutânea in vivo. Nenhuma das formulações apresentou irritabilidade cutânea e o ainda o CePO4 apresentou ótima compatibilidade no estudo de citotoxicidade in vitro. As formulações foram então submetidas à avaliação da eficácia por determinação do FPS in vivo e apresentaram valores entre 19,9 e 22,9, não havendo diferença significativa entre elas. A avaliação do residual branco das formulações também foi estudada em placas de silicone e observou-se que quando acrescida de CePO4 a formulação apresenta menor efeito inestético, demonstrando mais um diferencial deste material, o que possibilitará a utilização em maiores concentrações dos já usuais filtros UV inorgânicos. Assim, podemos concluir que o material proposto como novo filtro inorgânico UV (CePO4), possui potencial para ser utilizado em fotoprotetores uma vez que foram demonstradas todas as características necessárias para tal, ou seja, estabilidade, segurança e eficácia comprovados. Ainda, o CePO4 permite o desenvolvimento de formulações com sensorial adequado para aplicação, proporcionando um menor residual branco na pele, fato que interfere diretamente na aplicação desta classe de produtos. / The use of sunscreens has increased in recent years due to increase of knowledge about the damage caused by UV radiation and a greater concern with the photoaging. Because of that, it have been observed a effort by the research community and industry to develop new stable and effective UV filters, and formulations with appropriate sensorial during application. In this context it could be emphasize the cerium phosphate (CePO4), material proposed to be used as inorganic UV filter due to its high absorptivity in the UV range, besides its low photocatalytic activity and relative transparency in visible light, unlike inorganic filters commonly used in sunscreens. Thus the aim of this study was the development and evaluation of stability and photoprotective efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing CePO4. Initially the CePO4 was evaluated for a better understanding of the characteristics of this material. Subsequently a base formulation (F8) containing a combination of organic UV filters (F8A) was increased by the inorganic filters ZnO, TiO2 and CePO4 (F8B , F8C and F8d , respectively). After conducting preliminary stability tests, the formulations were evaluated for their physical (rheology) and chemical (HPLC) stability. Then, the photocatalytic activity of these formulations was evaluated to verify the influence of the addition of inorganic UV filters in formulations stability. It was observed that the formulation containing CePO4 besides having superior stability compared with conventional inorganic filters, also showed a lower photocatalytic activity. After, the safety of the formulations was evaluated by means of cytotoxicity assays on 3T3 fibroblast cultures and in vivo irritability skin test. None of the formulations presented cutaneous irritability and, besides of that the CePO4 showed excellent compatibility in the in vitro cytotoxicity study. The efficacy of the studied formulations were then evaluated by determining the in vivo SPF and it was obtained values between 19.9 and 22.9, with no significant difference between the different formulations studied. Also, the evaluation of the white residual after application was assessed in silicon plates and it was observed that the formulation containing CePO4 shows less unaesthetic effect, demonstrating a differential of this material , which will allow the use in higher concentrations them the usual inorganic UV filters. Thus, we conclude that the material proposed as new inorganic UV filter (CePO4) has potential to be used in sunscreens with stability, safety and efficacy demonstrated. Further, the CePO4 allows the development of formulations with suitable sensory for application providing a smaller white residual on skin, which interferes directly in the application of these kin of products.

A indústria cosmética tem se dedicado a desenvolver produtos com apelo antienvelhecimento no intuito de prevenir, retardar e amenizar rugas, englobando assim diversos benefícios para pele em um único produto. Dessa forma, é de fundamental importância avaliar a influência da associação de diferentes ativos cosméticos em uma mesma formulação no que se refere à eficácia da mesma. Nesse contexto, o presente estudo teve como objetivo desenvolver formulações cosméticas contendo oligossacarídeos da alfafa, polissacarídeos da mandioca e filtros solares, bem como a analisar a influência desses componentes no sensorial, textura e eficácia clínica de tais formulações após uma única aplicação (efeitos imediatos) e com o uso prolongado (efeitos em longo prazo). Para tal, formulações cosméticas, contendo ou não filtros solares e ativos objeto de estudo, isolados ou em associação, foram desenvolvidas e submetidas a estudo de estabilidade. As formulações estáveis foram analisadas quanto à textura, espalhabilidade e sensorial. Foram avaliados os efeitos imediatos das formulações com relação a hidratação, função barreira e microrrelevo da pele. Ademais, foi realizada a eficácia clínica das formulações após 45 dias de aplicação na hidratação, função barreira, controle da oleosidade, propriedades mecânicas e microrrelevo da pele. Além disso, foi avaliada a quantidade e largura de poros, padrão de coloração de manchas na pele, ecogeneicidade e espessura da derme. De acordo com os resultados as formulações desenvolvidas foram estáveis e a formulação que contendo filtros e ativos obteve melhores resultados em relação a textura, espalhabilidade e sensorial. No estudo de eficácia clínica, a formulação multifuncional contendo filtros solares e os ativos mostrou efeitos mais pronunciados na melhora da hidratação, microrrelevo e viscoelasticidade da pele. Com relação à influência dos componentes da formulação, a presença de filtros solares na formulação interferiu negativamente nos efeitos imediatos na hidratação e função barreira da pele e positivamente nos parâmetros relacionados ao microrrelevo cutâneo. Os oligossacarídeos de alfafa e polissacarídeos da mandioca mostraram influência positiva e sinergismo na melhora das propriedades mecânicas da pele. Em síntese, a formulação contendo a associação de ativos e filtros solares mostrou eficácia na melhora imediata e em longo prazo das condições gerais da pele envelhecida, além de possuir características sensoriais que atenderam às expectativas das voluntárias, mostrando a importância. Por fim, este estudo mostrou a importância do conhecimento dos componentes das formulações cosméticas e da combinação de substâncias ativas e filtros solares para a elaboração de protocolos de Pesquisa & Desenvolvimento para a obtenção de cosméticos multifuncionais eficazes / The cosmetic industry has been dedicated to develop products with anti-aging appeal in order to prevent, delay and soften wrinkles, combining many benefits for the skin in a single product. Thus, it is crucial to evaluate the influence of the association of different cosmetic actives in the same formulation as regards the effectiveness thereof. In this context, the present study aimed to develop cosmetic formulations containing oligosaccharides alfalfa, polysaccharides cassava and sunscreens, as well as to analyze the influence of these components in the sensory, texture and clinical efficacy of such formulations after a single application (immediate effect) and prolonged use (long-term effects). The cosmetic formulations, with or without sunscreens and active ingredients studied, alone or in combination, were developed and undergone to stability studies. The stable formulations were analyzed regarding texture, spreadability and sensory. The immediate effects of the formulations were evaluated in relation to moisture, barrier function and skin microrelief. Furthermore, the clinical efficacy of the formulations were performed after 45 days of application and were observed the hydration, barrier function, control of sebum, mechanical properties and the skin microrelief. In addition, the number and width of pores staining pattern of spots, echogenicity and thickness of the dermis was evaluated. According to the results the developed formulations were stable and the formulation containing filters and actives showed better results in relation to texture, spreadability and sensory. In the study of clinical efficacy, multifunctional formulation containing sunscreens and actives showed more pronounced effects in improving hydration, micro relief and skin viscoelasticity. Regarding the influence of the formulation components, the presence of sunscreens in the formulation had a negative influence on the immediate effects on the skin hydration and barrier function and positive influence in the parameters related to the skin microrelief. The oligosaccharides and polysaccharides alfalfa cassava showed positive influence and synergism in improving the mechanical properties of the skin. In summary, the correlation of the techniques used were essential to the establishment of a stable multi-functional formulation, with sensory characteristics that met to the expectations of the volunteers and with proven clinical efficacy improving immediate and long-term effects of the general conditions of aging skin. Finally, this study showed the importance of knowledge of cosmetic formulations components for directing the Research & Development of effective multifunctional cosmetics.