Overweight people claim to be mistreated by the fashion industry. If they were, it would be in line with branding theory supporting the idea of rejecting fat consumers to improve user imagery for fashion brands. However, fashion companies do not confess to such practices. To shed some light on the subject, I have conducted two studies. The first attempts to illustrate what effect, if any, user imagery has on fashion brands. It is an experiment designed to show how the weight of users affects consumers’ perceptions of mass market fashion brands. The findings show that consumers’ impressions of mass market fashion brands are significantly affected by the weight of its users. The effect of male user imagery is ambiguous. For women’s fashion on the other hand, slender users are to be preferred. In the second study I examine what effects these effects have on assortments. I compare the sizes of mass market clothes to the body sizes of the population. No evidence of discrimination of overweight or obese consumers was found -quite the contrary. The reasons for these unexpected findings may be explained by the requirements a brand must fulfil to make management of the customer base for user imagery purposes viable. The brand must be sensitive to user imagery; a requirement that mass market fashion fulfils. However, it must also be feasible for a company to exclude customers, and while garment sizes can be restricted to achieve this, the high volume sales strategy of mass market fashion apparently cannot.

Overweight people claim to be mistreated by the fashion industry. If they were, it would be in line with branding theory supporting the idea of rejecting fat consumers to improve user imagery for fashion brands. However, fashion companies do not confess to such practices. To shed some light on the subject, I have conducted two studies. The first attempts to illustrate what effect, if any, user imagery has on fashion brands. It is an experiment designed to show how the weight of users affects consumers’ perceptions of mass market fashion brands. The findings show that consumers’ impressions of mass market fashion brands are significantly affected by the weight of its users. The effect of male user imagery is ambiguous. For women’s fashion on the other hand, slender users are to be preferred. In the second study I examine what effects these effects have on assortments. I compare the sizes of mass market clothes to the body sizes of the population. No evidence of discrimination of overweight or obese consumers was found -quite the contrary. The reasons for these unexpected findings may be explained by the requirements a brand must fulfil to make management of the customer base for user imagery purposes viable. The brand must be sensitive to user imagery; a requirement that mass market fashion fulfils. However, it must also be feasible for a company to exclude customers, and while garment sizes can be restricted to achieve this, the high volume sales strategy of mass market fashion apparently cannot.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-12-23T13:51:49Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertacao de Felipe Rodrigues Santos.pdf: 2322223 bytes, checksum: 0a4e2ac2777ef4dfa460bbad962daa00 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010-09-28 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Este estudo de caso teve como objetivos obter informações de produção de quatro povoamentos clonais de eucalipto; avaliar funções de afilamento e quantificar a madeira para uso único e multiprodutos; avaliar economicamente as possibilidades de uso da madeira; e dar suporte para tomada de decisão a empreendedores interessados em investir na atividade de silvicultura de eucalipto. Quatro povoamentos de clones híbridos de eucalipto, com idades de 77 (povoamento 1), 72 (povoamento 2), 53 (povoamento 3) e 40 meses (povoamento 4), localizados no município de Jerônimo Monteiro, ES, foram inventariados com alocação aleatória de 10 parcelas, em cada povoamento, medindo-se as variáveis CAP e H. Foram cubadas árvores e obtido o volume pela fórmula de Smalian. Foram ajustados modelos hipsométricos e de volume e calculados a média dos diâmetros, diâmetro médio, área basal por hectare e média das alturas para cada povoamento. Em seguida foram ajustados os modelos de afilamento em sua forma original: Kozak et al. (1969), Demaerschalk (1972), Ormerod (1973) e Schöepfer (1966). A seleção dos modelos para estimar altura comercial nos diâmetros 14, 12, 10, 8, 7 e 6 cm e volume comercial nos diâmetros 14, 7 e 6 cm deu-se pela aplicação dos critérios estatísticos em conjunto com a análise gráfica dos resíduos. Nos povoamentos 1, 2 e 3 foram determinadas as produções de uso único para celulose e energia, e no povoamento 4 para energia, bem como a produção combinada destes usos com a possibilidade de parte do fuste para mourões. Assim, foram determinadas a produção combinada de celulose e mourões para os povoamentos 1, 2 e 3, e energia e mourões para o povoamento 4. Para a avaliação econômica foram aplicados os métodos VPL, BPE e CMP. Observou-se que a média dos diâmetros, diâmetro médio e área basal apresentaram relação direta com a idade dos povoamentos. Os resultados dos ajustes dos modelos mostraram diferença no perfil do fuste entre os povoamentos. O aproveitamento da madeira de uso único para celulose foi maior no povoamento 1 (97%), seguido do povoamento 3 (90%) e 2 (80%). Para energia, a proporção foi maior nos povoamentos 1 e 4 (99 e 94%,respectivamente) em relação ao 2 e 3 (86 e 91%, respectivamente). Para multiprodutos, observou-se que os povoamentos 3 e 4 apresentaram maior proporção de uso da madeira para mourões em relação à celulose e energia. O uso da madeira para energia mostrou-se inviável economicamente em todas as situações avaliadas. Já, para celulose, sob uma taxa de juros baixa, mostraram-se viáveis economicamente. No entanto, os povoamentos 2 e 3 foram mais sensíveis à variação de aumento na taxa de juros em relação ao povoamento 1. O uso da madeira para multiprodutos foi alternativa mais viável para os quatro povoamentos. O CMP mostrou-se sensível quanto às variações de idade, taxa de juros e uso da madeira / This case study aimed to obtain information for the production of four clones Eucalyptus stands; to evaluate taper functions and quantify the wood to use single and multiproduct; economically evaluate the potential use of wood, and support for decision-making entrepreneurs interested in investing in the forestry of Eucalyptus. Four stands of Eucalyptus hybrid clones, aged 77 (stand 1), 72 (stand 2), 53 (stand 3) and 40 months (stand 4), located in the town of Jerônimo Monteiro, ES, were surveyed with random of 10 plots in each stand, measuring variables CAP and H. Trees were scaled and obtained the volume by Smalian s formula. Hypsometric and volume models were adjusted and calculated the mean diameter, quadratic mean diameter, basal area per hectare and average height for each stand. Then the taper models were adjusted in its original form: Kozak et al. (1969), Demaerschalk (1972), Ormerod (1973) and Schöepfer (1966). The selection of models to estimate the commercial height in the diameters 14, 12, 10, 8, 7 and 6 cm and trade volume in the diameter 14, 7 and 6 cm was due to the application of statistical criteria in conjunction with the graphic analysis of residues. In stands 1, 2 and 3 were determined use single products for pulp and energy, and the stand 4 for energy, as well as the combined production of these uses with the possibility that some of the stem for fencepost. Thus, were determined the production combined of pulp and fencepost for stands 1, 2 and 3, and energy and fencepost to the stand 4. For the economic evaluation were applied the methods NPV, EPB and APC. It was observed that the mean diameter, quadratic mean diameter and basal area were directly related with age. The results of the adjustment of the models showed a difference in the profile of the stem between the stands. The use of wood of single use for pulp was higher in stand 1 (97%), followed by stand 3 (90%) and 2 (80%). For energy, the proportion was higher in stands 1 and 4 (99 and 94%, respectively) compared to 2 and 3 (86 and 91%, respectively). For multiproduct, it was observed that stands 3 and 4 had a higher proportion of use of wood for fencepost in relation to pulp and energy. The use of wood for energy has proven to be uneconomical in all situations evaluated. Already, for cellulose, in a low interest rate, proved to be economically viable. However, the stands 2 and 3 were more sensitive to variation in the interest rate in relation to stand 1. The use of wood for multiproduct was more viable alternative to the four stands. The APC was sensitive for changes in age, interest rate and use of wood

過去大部分研究都認為人們偏好多樣化的選擇，在商店內提供越多的商品，會吸引到更多的消費者來做購買。但近年來，消費者的購物環境充斥著各式各樣的不同資訊，在這樣的情況下，賣方如果再給消費者增加更多的產品選擇，是否有可能會使消費者的購物會產生障礙，而反而延遲消費者的購買行為？近幾年，紛紛有學者發現，產品多樣化所帶給消費者的效益有一定的限制，並不往往是「越多越好」，許多研究試圖找出影響消費者對商品數量偏好的因素，而其中有文獻指出，商店的評價差異，將會影響消費者對不同數量商店的偏好；另外，消費者做選擇前，是否已對產品存有特定的理想偏好，也可能會影響到消費者的選擇結果。 目前過去對消費者商品數量偏好的研究多以實體零售商店作為探討目標，而近幾年網路購物盛行，網路商店往往會提供消費者數量眾多的商品做選擇，因此本研究則改以網路商店作實驗探討，且參考過去文獻所探討之變數，加入不同產品類型來探討對消費者所造成的影響，此外也探討極大化程度對消費者偏好是否具有影響。 本研究結果則發現： 1. 有無理想選擇與產品類型對消費者不同品數量的偏好影響具有交互作用。 2. 當消費者購買的是享樂品時，有理想選擇的消費者會偏好產品數量較少的網路商店。 3. 當消費者購買的是實用品時，有理想選擇的消費者會偏好產品數量較多的網路商店。

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico / This study was carried out in order to analyze the performance of segmented and non-segmented taper models in terms of estimates for trees profiles with 1, 2 and 3 shape change points in stems; to test the accuracy of estimates of stem profiles and commercial height based on an adjusting taper model with non-stratified data, stratified in classes of DBH (diameter at breast height) and stratified in classes of shape quotient; and to examine the influence of the results on the formulation of a classification table for wood assortments. The data to this study were measured in Pinus taeda L. stands from Klabin S.A. in Telêmaco Borba-PR. The sample trees grew up in stands managed to sawmill, with two thinnings and coppicing, plantation of 1.600 trees/ha, spacing of 2,50 x 2,50 m. Forty trees were cut down and cubed by the Smalian method in the following positions: 0,10, 0,30, 0,80, 1,30, and in each meter until the total height. In these positions, stem transversal slices were obtained to study the reconstruction of growth using dendrocronology and it generated a database of 649 trees aged between 8 and 30 years, among which the samples to this research were selected. Aiming at the best model to estimate the stem profiles, for all kinds of trees the non-segmented models were superior, the 5th degree polynomial showed a better performance and the Garay model presented the second best result. Considering the best method to illustrate the data, the stratification by classes of shape quotient was more accurate, emphasizing K0,7h and K0,5h classes. The assortments table proved that the higher the trees dimensions, the higher the possibility of obtaining more products and, consequently, the better the performance, with a lower residual value. The validation also showed the accuracy of the models adopted in the assortments table. / Este trabalho foi realizado com os objetivos de verificar tanto o desempenho de modelos de afilamento segmentados e não segmentados quanto às estimativas dos perfis de árvores com 1, 2 e 3 pontos de mudanças de forma nos fustes, quanto a acurácia das estimativas dos perfis dos fustes e alturas comerciais a partir de um modelo de afilamento ajustado com os dados não estratificados, estratificados em classes de dap (diâmetro à altura do peito) e estratificados em classes de quociente de forma. Propôs ainda, a comparação entre de um modelo de afilamento ajustado com os dados sem estratificação e estratificado por uma classe de quociente de forma para estimativa do volume total e desenvolvimento dos resultados destes estudos na construção de uma tabela de classificação de sortimentos de madeira. Os dados para o presente trabalho foram mensurados em povoamentos de Pinus taeda L., da Klabin S.A., em Telêmaco Borba-PR. As árvores amostradas cresceram em povoamentos manejados para serraria, com dois desbastes e corte raso, plantio de 1.600 árvores/ha, em espaçamento de 2,50 x 2,50 m. Quarenta árvores foram abatidas e cubadas pelo Método de Smalian, nas posições de: 0,10, 0,30, 0,80, 1,30, e de 1 em 1 metro até a altura total. Nessas posições, foram retiradas fatias transversais do fuste para fins de estudos de reconstituição do crescimento por dendrocronologia, gerando um banco de dados de 649 árvores com idades entre 8 e 30 anos, de onde foram selecionadas aquelas que fizeram parte dos bancos de dados para os estudos propostos. Na busca do melhor modelo para estimativa dos perfis dos fustes, para todos os tipos de árvores, os modelos não segmentados foram superiores, tendo o Polinômio do 5º grau o melhor desempenho e o modelo de Garay o segundo melhor resultado. Em relação ao melhor método para dispor os dados, a estratificação por classe de quociente de forma mostrou o maior ganho de precisão, tendo as classes de K0,7h e K0,5h maiores destaques. A tabela de sortimentos mostrou que, à medida que as árvores têm aumento em suas dimensões, passam a apresentar a possibilidade de retirada de mais produtos e conseqüentemente maior aproveitamento, com pequeno valor residual. As validações mostraram as boas precisões dos modelos usados para construção da tabela de sortimentos.