Ces dernières années, de nouvelles stratégies ciblant un accompagnement de la mobilité du trait de côte plutôt que sa fixation ont vu le jour. Parmi celles-ci, les ouvrages atténuateur de houle visent à protéger la côte en dissipant l’énergie des vagues par déferlement bathymétrique, tout en restant invisibles depuis la plage. Leur utilisation a toutefois eu des effets contrastés et les processus hydro-sédimentaires induits par ces structures restent mal connus. L’objectif général de ce travail est de mieux comprendre les effets de ces atténuateurs de houle sur la morphodynamique littorale, notamment sur des sites où l’évolution de l’avant-côte est complexe et dynamique. L’observation des effets induits par un atténuateur de houle installé au lido de Sète (Golfe du Lion), sur la dynamique littorale est réalisée via un dispositif vidéo qui permet de caractériser l’évolution morphologique du système. En s’appuyant sur une méthode automatique de correction des images développée dans le cadre de cette thèse, l’estimation de la bathymétrie par inversion de la célérité des vagues et ses erreurs associées sont évaluées pour la première fois en Méditerranée. Les observations montrent que l’atténuateur de houle impacte de manière importante la morphologie et la dynamique des barres sableuses pré-littorales et révèlent que l’élargissement de la plage résulte principalement de son couplage avec la nouvelle forme de barre plus linéaire. Le modèle morphodynamique 2DBeach est ensuite implémenté sur Sète et sur un second site atelier en Australie où un récif artificiel de taille et de forme différente a été mis en place. Les simulations réalisées permettent de déterminer les circulations induites par ces ouvrages ainsi que les évolutions sédimentaires associées. Enfin, ce travail met en lumière les différents processus physiques contrôlant l’influence d’un atténuateur de houle sur les évolutions morphologiques des barres sableuses pré-littorales et du trait de côte, et renforce des connaissances essentielles à la gestion durable des plages sableuses. / In recent years, traditional coastal defense strategy has become increasingly unpopular as it is costly and lastingly scars the landscape with sometimes limited effectiveness or even adverse impact. Mimicking natural reefs, submerged breakwaters aims to protect the coast, decreasing wave energy through wave breaking offshore with the advantage of remaining invisible from the beach. The general objective of this work is to better understand the different morphodynamic processes that interact in the presence of these structures, especially for complex beach morphology with highly dynamic sandbars. The observation of the effects induced by a submerged breakwater deployed at the Lido of Sète (Gulf of Lions) on the morphological response is performed using a video monitoring system. Based on an automatic method for image correction developed in this thesis, a video-derived depth inversion algorithm was tested to infer nearshore bathymetry from remotely-sensed wave parameters. Our observations show that the submerged breakwater had a profound impact on the shoreline-sandbar system and suggest that, on barred beaches, the role of the sandbar is critical to shoreline response to the implementation of such a structure. The expected salient formation was not observed and, instead, shoreline coupled to the modified sandbar geometry, which resulted in a slight seaward migration of the shoreline in the lee of the structure. In order to characterize the nearshore circulation induced by these structures and to better assess sediment transport, the morphodynamic model 2DBeach was then implemented on Sète and at another beach in Australia where an artificial reef of different size and shape has been deployed. This work allows a better understanding of the influence of a submerged breakwater on the morphological evolution of sandbars and shoreline on time scales from storm to years, and provides new insight into nearshore system response to better design sustainable management of sandy beaches.

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The morphology of Lake Sibaya is a product of an ancient fluvial system that drained a coastal landscape dominated by aeolian processes. The sedimentary processes within the lake are driven by wind generated currents. The dominant sedimentary process is one of lake segmentation, whereby prograding bedforms isolate the lake into smaller water bodies. The prograding bedforms include cuspate forelands and sand spits. The size and mobility of these bedforms is a function of sediment availability and current regime. The bathymetry of Lake Sibaya is discussed, with emphasis on geomorphic features derived from the ancient aeolian landscape as well as features related to modern sedimentary processes. The presence of underwater knickpoints and terraces indicate that lake level fluctuations have been common in Lake Sibaya. It is during lake highstands that large volumes of sand are eroded from aeolian dunes which surround the lake and made available for shoreline progradation. Ancient dune topography is preserved to depths of 20 m below water-level within the lake. Surface sediment distribution maps were compiled from 515 grab samples and thirteen core samples. Fine grained, well sorted, coarse skewed quartz sand comprises the majority of the surface area of the lake floor. Gyttja is the other dominant sediment type and accumulates in palaeovalleys and depressions on the lake floor. Sediment distribution in Lake Sibaya is discussed in terms of modern lacustrine processes as well as inherited sedimentary characteristics. The stratigraphy of the sediments underlying Lake Sibaya was investigated using a Uni-Boom seismic profiling system. Seismic profiles were compiled by identifying acoustically reflective surfaces that show regional development. Thirteen seismic overlays were prepared, and are illustrated as west - east and north - south seismic profiles. Five sequences ranging in age from late Cretaceous to Holocene were identified from the seismic profiles, and are described in terms of sequence stratigraphic principles. The seismic sequences were interpreted within a lithostratigraphic framework and are presented as a series of idealised geological sections. Thirteen sediment cores were collected from the Lake Sibaya area in order to ascertain the accuracy of the stratigraphic interpretation of the seismic records, to investigate reflective horizons identified from seismic records and to collect dateable material. Interpretation of the sediment cores reveals that a proto Lake Sibaya existed on drowned dune topography, during the period ± 43500 BP to ± 25500 BP prior to the Last Glacial Maximum. During the early to mid Holocene the Lake Sibaya site was occupied by a saline lagoon which underwent isolation from the sea ± 5030 BP. Since the mid-Holocene the lake has evolved to totally freshwater conditions and has undergone little sedimentation. The geological evolution of the Lake Sibaya area is discussed in terms of the geometry of the identified seismic sequences, the sedimentary characteristics of these sequences and the radiocarbon dates provided from the sediment cores. Palaeo-environmental conditions during the accumulation of the sedimentary sequences is discussed where fossil remains permit. / Thesis (M.Sc.)-University of Natal, Durban, 1998.

Made available in DSpace on 2015-03-26T13:28:36Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 texto completo.pdf: 1715165 bytes, checksum: ba96ef5c3249cefde8551b95cd57d667 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-11-25 / With developments in recent years, methods for bathymetric surveys using acoustic sensors (echo sounders) and signals transmitted by satellite navigation receivers, it becomes possible to describe the submerged same level of detail which is embossed with the surface relief describes terrestrial. A graphical representation of the underwater relief occurs from Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) generated by interpolating seeking, from measurements, predict the depth at unsampled locations. The geometrical information taken from bathymetric surveys, the volume of liquid water or mud present, for example in a reservoir, is the most relevant. This study sought to determine the products generated by single beam bathymetric survey, as well as the methods of kriging interpolation and Topo to Raster. The study areas were a box of decanting of the water treatment plant and a dam lake of Furnas, where surveys were conducted, with total station and bathymetric surveys, with a single beam echo sounder which operates at frequencies 33 kHz and 210 kHz . In the settling box, first bathymetric survey was conducted (Lbat 1). Then be emptied and cleaned the box and before filling it again, surveying, (Ltop) was performed with total station. Immediately after filling, without water and mud decanted, another bathymetric survey (Lbat 2) was performed. To survey the dam lake of Furnas, held automated bathymetric survey, ie, using the GNSS technology for positioning. First, the data from the survey, we evaluated the methods of kriging interpolation and Topo to Raster in the DEM generation of the settling box. The conclusion was that the interpolator Top to Raster conditioning showed remarkable deformations at the edges and in the center of the study area and should be discarded. The next stage of this work was to evaluate the accuracy of DEMs generated by applying kriging on data from single beam bathymetric survey, Lbat 2, using the frequencies of 33 kHz and 210 kHz. Possession of DEMs were calculated discrepancies between information from them and points of surveying. The results showed an accuracy of about 5 cm in mean depths of 3.21 m, and that as the surveys were conducted after cleaning the box, with clean water, there was no significant difference in the accuracy of DEMs generated with depths raised to the frequencies 33 kHz and 210 kHz. Then the DEMs were generated by kriging for the first bathymetric survey, Lbat 1, when solid waste resulting from the settling process still existed. Volumes were calculated and compared to evaluate the frequency of 33 kHz echo sounder to determine the volume of mud in the box. After analyzing the results, it was found that using only the first bathymetric survey, with the frequencies 33 kHz and 210 kHz, there was detected 186 m3 of sludge, in a total volume of 799 m3 of water and mud which, with the clean water the volume is determined by accurate bathymetry, showing discrepancy of 0.63% for the frequency of 210 kHz and 0.12% for the frequency of 33 kHz. To survey the lake of Furnas DEMs were generated by kriging interpolation method and the Top to Raster, varying the spacing between the regular survey lines using horizontal scan lines to the regular survey lines. Through statistical analysis of the discrepancies between estimated by interpolating depths and depths observed in the scan lines of the bathymetric survey, the kriging showed better results for spacings of 40 and 80 meters. Considering the isobatimétricas between different DEMs created, it is observed that for larger spacings the interpolator to Top Raster presented smoother features when compared to the DEMs generated by kriging. / Com a evolução, nos últimos anos, dos métodos de levantamentos batimétricos utilizando sensores acústicos (ecobatímetros) e receptores de sinais transmitidos por satélites de navegação, torna-se possível descrever o relevo submerso com mesmo nível de detalhe com que se descreve o relevo da superfície terrestre. A representação gráfica do relevo submerso se dá a partir de Modelos Digitais de Elevação (MDEs) gerados por interpoladores que buscam, a partir das medidas realizadas, predizer a profundidade em locais não amostrados. Das informações geométricas extraídas de levantamentos batimétricos, o volume de água ou lama líquida presente, por exemplo em um reservatório, é a mais relevante. Este trabalho busca avaliar produtos gerados pelo levantamento batimétrico monofeixe, assim como os métodos de interpolação krigagem e Topo to Raster. As áreas de estudo foram uma caixa de decantação de estação de tratamento de água e um lago da represa de furnas, onde foram realizados levantamentos topográficos, com estação total e levantamentos batimétricos, com ecobatímetro monofeixe que opera nas frequências 33 kHz e 210 kHz. Na caixa de decantação, primeiramente foi realizado levantamento batimétrico (Lbat 1). Em seguida, esvaziou-se e limpou-se a caixa e, antes de enchê-la novamente, foi realizado um levantamento topográfico, (Ltop), com estação total. Logo após o enchimento, com água e sem lama decantada, foi realizado outro levantamento batimétrico (Lbat 2). Para o levantamento no lago da represa de furnas, realizou-se levantamento batimétrico automatizado, ou seja, empregando a tecnologia GNSS para o posicionamento. Primeiramente, com os dados do levantamento topográfico, se avaliou os métodos de interpolação krigagem e Topo to Raster na geração do MDE da caixa de decantação. A conclusão foi que o interpolador Topo to Raster condicionado apresentou notáveis deformações nas bordas e no centro da área de estudo, devendo ser descartado. A próxima etapa do trabalho foi avaliar a acurácia dos MDEs gerados aplicando krigagem nos dados do levantamento batimétrico monofeixe, Lbat 2, utilizando as frequências de 33 kHz e 210 kHz. De posse dos MDEs foram calculadas as discrepâncias entre informações extraídas deles e os pontos do levantamento topográfico. Os resultados apresentaram uma acurácia em torno de 5 cm, em profundidades médias de 3,21 m, e que, como os levantamentos foram realizados após a limpeza da caixa, com água limpa, não se verificou diferença significativa na acurácia dos MDEs gerados com as profundidades levantadas com as frequências 33 kHz e 210 kHz. Em seguida foram gerados os MDEs pela krigagem para o primeiro levantamento batimétrico, Lbat 1, quando ainda existiam resíduos sólidos resultantes do processo de decantação. Os volumes foram calculados e comparados a fim de avaliar a frequência de 33 kHz do ecobatímetro para determinar o volume de lama na caixa. Após analisar os resultados verificou-se que usando somente o primeiro levantamento batimétrico, com as frequências 33 kHz e 210 kHz, não se detectou 186 m3 de lama, num volume total de 799 m3 de água e lama, e que, com a água limpa, o volume determinado pela batimetria é acurado, apresentando discrepância de 0,63% para a frequência de 210 khz e 0,12% para a frequência de 33 khz. Para o levantamento do lago de furnas foram gerados MDEs pelo método de krigagem e pelo Topo to Raster, variando o espaçamento entre as linhas regulares de sondagem, utilizando linhas de verificação transversais às linhas regulares de sondagem. Através da análise estatística das discrepâncias entre as profundidades estimadas pelos interpoladores e as profundidades observadas nas linhas de verificação do levantamento batimétrico, a krigagem apresentou melhores resultados para espaçamentos de 20 a 80 metros. A diferença entre os volumes determinados para os espaçamentos de 20 a 40 metros foi menor que 2%,. Considerando as isobatimétricas entre os diversos MDEs criados, observa-se que para espaçamentos maiores o interpolador Topo to Raster apresentou feições mais suavizadas quando comparado com os MDEs gerados pela krigagem.

O microfitobentos é constituído principalmente por diatomáceas, além de fitoflagelados e cianobactérias, distribuindo-se de forma heterogênea no sedimento exposto à luminosidade. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar a distribuição espacial da biomassa microfitobentônica no perfil batimétrico da região de Ubatuba, SP. As amostras foram coletadas no verão de 2013, em três transectos (Flamengo, Fortaleza e Mar Virado), com seis pontos cada, coletadas entre as isóbatas de 5 e 30 m. A biomassa foi expressa como clorofila a. Clorofila a e feopigmentos foram extraídos com acetona e medidos em espectrofotômetro. Os valores médios dos pigmentos foram de 18,5 ± 11,4 mg.m-2 para clorofila a e de 28,4 ± 16,2 mg.m-2 para feopigmentos no transecto do Flamengo; de 11,9 ± 10,2 mg.m-2 para clorofila a e de 18,8 ± 15,2 mg.m-2 para feopigmentos no transecto do Mar Virado; e de 11,8 ± 11,3 mg.m-2 para clorofila a e de 13,7 ± 13,6 mg.m-2 para feopigmentos no transecto da Fortaleza. Estes valores foram maiores nas regiões mais rasas. A distribuição da biomassa foi associada positivamente com intensidade de luz, silte, argila, matéria orgânica e carbono orgânico total, enquanto foi correlacionada negativamente com profundidade, areia e grânulos. / Marine microphytobenthos community is composed mainly by diatoms and also phytoflagellates and cyanobacteria, which cover the marine sediments submitted to light. This study aims to survey the spatial distribution of bathymetric profile microphytobenthic biomass in Ubatuba region, SP. The samples were collected in the summer (March, 2013), at three transects: Flamengo, Fortaleza and Mar Virado, with 6 points each, between the isobaths of 5 and 30 meters. The biomass was expressed as chlorophyll a. Chlorophyll a and phaeopigments were extracted with acetone and measured at spectrophotometer. The biomass averages values were: chlorophyll a 18,5 ± 11,4 mg.m-2 and phaeopigments 28,4 ± 16,2 mg.m-2 for Flamengo transect; chlorophyll a 11,9 ± 10,2 mg.m-2 and phaeopigments 18,8 ± 15,2 mg.m-2 for Mar Virado transect; and chlorophyll a 11,8 ± 11,3 mg.m-2 and phaeopigments 13,7 ± 13,6 mg.m-2 for Fortaleza transect. Chlorophyll a and phaeopigments averages values were higher in the shallow regions. The biomass distribution was positively associated to light intensity, silt, clay, total organic carbon and organic matter. Negative correlations were found for depth and coarse grains.

Le phénomène global d’érosion côtière, notamment sur les rivages d’accumulation, tend à accroître les risques côtiers (érosion et submersion) dans les secteurs à enjeux. Dans ce contexte, les stratégies visant à la gestion des stocks sableux côtiers au sein même des cellules hydro-sédimentaires apparaissent comme une réponse potentielle à la gestion locale de l’érosion des accumulations littorales, et au-delà à la gestion de ces risques. Ces perspectives se heurtent encore à une insuffisance de connaissance des dynamiques géomorphologiques des avant-plages (partie immergée de la cellule). Pour autant, la connaissance des échanges au sein de la cellule et avec le large sont au coeur de la compréhension du fonctionnement des systèmes littoraux sableux. Les objectifs de cette thèse sont de renforcer les connaissances géomorphologiques des stocks sableux et de leur mobilité au sein des cellules littorales et, par l’amélioration de cette connaissance, de contribuer à l’élaboration de stratégies de gestion des risques côtiers.La comparaison de levés bathymétriques multi-temporels sur le temps long (séculaire) et court (annuel) à une échelle régionale et locale met en évidence les évolutions des avant-plages sur les côtes bretonnes du début du XXème siècle à nos jours. Ainsi, un des résultats majeurs est une inversion des tendances d’évolutions au milieu du XXème siècle. Une situation d’accrétion ou de stabilité relative laisse place à une érosion généralisée des avant-plages sur les côtes bretonnes. L’interprétation et la discussion de ces résultats permettent d’avancer des facteurs explicatifs de ces évolutions tels que les forçages météo-marins et anthropiques et les contraintes structurales. / The global phenomenon of coastal erosion, occurring especially on sandy coasts, tends to increase coastal risks in areas with key issues and concerns. In this context, stocks management strategies within sandy hydro-sedimentary coastal cells have appeared to be potential solutions to the local management of coastal erosion and their associated risks. However, despite their importance to determine management strategies, the dynamics of nearshore (submerged part of the cell) geomorphology remain poorly studied and partially understood. This PhD thesis aims to provide a better understanding of nearshore geomorphology in some specific sites and to contribute to the development of coastal risk management strategies.The study of multi-temporal bathymetric surveys at century-scale and annual-scale highlights significant evolution of the Brittany nearshore morphology from the beginning of the 20th century until today.In particular, a striking result is the reversal of the morphological evolution tendency in the mid-20th century. During the first half-century, the situation is steady, though nearshore morphology has a slight tendency toward accumulation. During the second half-century, we measured a net erosion tendency for all the survey sites. Interpretation and discussion of these results allow to determine the forcing of the nearshore morphodynamics, among which are climatic (coupled ocean-atmosphere) events, anthropogenic impacts and structural constraints.

Intra-archipelago waterways, including tidal strait networks, present a complex set of barriers to, and conduits for sediment transport between marine basins. Tidal straits may also be the least well understood tide-dominated sedimentary environment. To address these issues, currents, sediment transport pathways, and seabed sedimentology & geomorphology were studied in the central Salish Sea (Gulf and San Juan Islands region) of British Columbia, Canada and Washington State, USA. A variety of data types were integrated: 3D & 2D tidal models, multibeam bathymetry & backscatter, seabed video, grab samples, cores and seismic reflection. This dissertation included the first regional sediment transport modelling study of the central Salish Sea. Lagrangian particle dispersal simulations were driven by 2D tidal hydrodynamics (~59-days). It was found that flood-tide dominance through narrow intra-archipelago connecting straits resulted in the transfer of sediment into the inland Strait of Georgia, an apparent sediment sink. The formative/maintenance processes at a variety of seabed landforms, including a banner bank with giant dunes, were explained with modelled tides and sediment transport. Deglacial history and modern lateral sedimentological and morphological transitions were also considered. Based on this modern environment, adjustments to the tidal strait facies model were identified. In addition, erosion and deposition patterns across the banner bank (dune complex) were monitored with 8-repeat multibeam sonar surveys (~10 years). With these data, spatially variable bathymetric change detection techniques were explored: A) a cell-by-cell probabilistic depth uncertainty-based threshold (t-test); and B) coherent clusters of change pixels identified with the local Moran's Ii spatial autocorrelation statistic. Uncertainty about volumetric change is a considerable challenge in seabed change research, compared to terrestrial studies. Consideration of volumetric change confidence intervals tempers interpretations and communicates metadata. Techniques A & B may both be used to restrict volumetric change calculations in area, to exclude low relative bathymetric change signal areas. / Graduate / 2018-12-07

Although the physical characteristics of surfing breaks are well described in the literature, there is little specific research on surfing and coastal management. Such research is required because coastal engineering has had significant impacts to surfing breaks, both positive and negative. Strategic planning and environmental impact assessment methods, a central tenet of integrated coastal zone management (ICZM), are recommended by this thesis to maximise surfing amenities. The research reported here identifies key oceanographic considerations required for ICZM around surfing breaks including: surfing wave parameters; surfing break components; relationship between surfer skill, surfing manoeuvre type and wave parameters; wind effects on waves; currents; geomorphic surfing break categorisation; beach-state and morphology; and offshore wave transformations. Key coastal activities that can have impacts to surfing breaks are identified. Environmental data types to consider during coastal studies around surfing breaks are presented and geographic information systems (GIS) are used to manage and interpret such information. To monitor surfing breaks, a shallow water multibeam echo sounding system was utilised and a RTK GPS water level correction and hydrographic GIS methodology developed. Including surfing in coastal management requires coastal engineering solutions that incorporate surfing. As an example, the efficacy of the artificial surfing reef (ASR) at Mount Maunganui, New Zealand, was evaluated. GIS, multibeam echo soundings, oceanographic measurements, photography, and wave modelling were all applied to monitor sea floor morphology around the reef. Results showed that the beach-state has more cellular circulation since the reef was installed, and a groin effect on the offshore bar was caused by the structure within the monitoring period, trapping sediment updrift and eroding sediment downdrift. No identifiable shoreline salient was observed. Landward of the reef, a scour hole ~3 times the surface area of the reef has formed. The current literature on ASRs has primarily focused on reef shape and its role in creating surfing waves. However, this study suggests that impacts to the offshore bar, beach-state, scour hole and surf zone hydrodynamics should all be included in future surfing reef designs. More real world reef studies, including ongoing monitoring of existing surfing reefs are required to validate theoretical concepts in the published literature.