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  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
1

A Cradle to Cradle Study at Klättermusen

Söderberg, Siri January 2012 (has links)
This study has been carried out at Klättermusen, a Swedish company producing outdoor clothingand equipment with a focus on durability, safety, function and environment. The purpose of thethesis was to investigate if Klättermusen should use Cradle to Cradle (C2C) in their sustainabilitywork. This was reviewed by studying the working procedure, by making a case study, byinvestigating if there are alternative ways to practise C2C, by studying the weak points of theC2C-certification and by investigating the compatibility with other sustainability tools.The C2C vision is inspired by the ecosystems and is based on the three rules Waste equals food, Usecurrent solar income and Celebrate diversity. An important aspect of C2C is the focus on attaining apositive impact on humans and the environment instead of doing things less bad by minimizingemissions. To make it possible for companies to communicate their effort and progress to theircustomers and become more competitive a C2C certification has been elaborated. The core ofthe certification is an assessment of the materials included in the product to make sure they aresecure, healthy and recyclable. Other parts included in the certification are energy, water andsocial aspects.When studying the C2C certification three of Klättermusen’s products were used as references.To certify these products Klättermusen has to gather information from their suppliers and makestrategies regarding Materials, Material Reutilization, Energy, Water and Social Responsibility. Forexample all the substances that contained in the garment at a concentration of at least 0.01 %must be reported, which means that all suppliers must be requested to list their substances. Thecertification cost of a pair of pants investigated in this study was estimated to 54 500 €.An assessment was made to find alternative ways to practise C2C and identify weak points of theC2C certification. It is based on interviews held with Jenny Pfau working for EPEA and threepersons in contact with C2C in their work; Kjersti Kviseth, Magnus Hedenmark and RichardBlume. According to Jenny Pfau Klättermusen can practise C2C by making a screening, a detailedassessment or a workshop. Both Magnus Hedenmark and Richard Blume practise the frameworkof The Natural Step and think that the C2C certification should be used as a tool within theframework. Some weak points found by these persons in the certification are that it is timeconsuming,not transparent enough and lack of a systems perspective.The C2C certification was compared with bluesign, a sustainability standard for the textileindustry, and Eco Index, a sustainability tool made for the outdoor industry. The purpose was toinvestigate if the C2C certification is compatible with other tools and the compared aspects weremainly lifecycle stages, impact categories and level of detail, but also purpose, procedure,workload, required knowledge and experience, cost, credibility and transparency.Both strengths and weaknesses were found when studying the C2C certification. It has got apositive approach to sustainability and develops safe products from a chemical perspective buthas a lack of systems perspective, is costly and time-consuming. The compatibility of the toolswas discussed with the comparison as a basis. Eco Index is modular and could be adjusted tocomplement the C2C certification but both tools have a big workload. bluesign and the C2Ccertification include the same lifecycle stages but have different strengths, which could makethem complementing each but possibly contradictive.Klättermusen is recommended to make a sustainability vision of their future products and thenchoose which tools to use. Since Klättermusen is already a bluesign system partner it could be agood idea to complement bluesign with Eco Index and C2C, but this choice should depend onthe future vision.
2

En undersökning av dispersionsfärgämnen i textil : Allergiframkallande kemikalier och färgämnen

Ekvall, Moa, Bengtsson Creaser, Linnéa January 2021 (has links)
I Europa råder det en ökad oro för sensibiliserande ämnen i textil, vilket har aktualiserats eftersom den Europeiska Kemikaliemyndigheten (ECHA) mottagit ett förslag om begränsning av hudsensibiliserande ämnen inom textil- och läder. Ett stort antal dispersionsfärgämnen, som används för att färga polyester, har sensibiliserande egenskaper. Syftet med studien är att undersöka förekomst av allergena dispersionsfärgämnen och färghärdighet mot tvättning samt nötning i textila plagg köpta från aktörer utanför EU. Färgämnens tendens att lämna plaggen tillsammans med mikroplaster analyserades också genom att tvättvatten samt viktförlust vid nötning undersöktes. Det laborativa resultatet kompletterades med litteraturstudier och intervjuer med forskare inom ämnet. Polyesterplagg köpta från aktörer utanför EU valdes att analyseras eftersom privatpersoner vid privatimport är ansvariga för varors kemikalieinnehåll, men ofta har bristande kunskaper gällande kemikalierisker och regleringar. Allergena dispersionsfärgämnen i halter över 10 mg/kg, enligt använd OEKO-TEX metod, identifierades inte i plaggen. Lägre halter än 10 mg/kg av allergena dispersionsfärgämnen hittades i plaggen och riskbedömning visade att en av halterna möjligtvis kunde indikera en risk. Färgförlust hos plaggen noterades vid tvättning och nötning. Plaggens färgändring bedömdes ungefärligt uppfylla utgivna minimikrav för färgändring. I tvättvattnet observerades mikroplast och färgutsläppt vid tvättemperaturer 40 °C och 60 °C. Ingen mätbar viktförlust orsakades vid nötning av plaggen med 7500 varv som högsta varvtal. Studiens slutsats är att antalet dispersionsfärgämnen som klassificeras som allergena ökar och att konsumenter upplever allergiska symptom vid köp av nya textila varor med nära exponering. Fyra av de sex undersökta plaggen är förmodligen färgade med förorenande färgämnen innehållande allergena dispersionsfärgämnen. Förekomst av allergena dispersionsfärgämnen i låga halter bör förebyggas eftersom de kan imitera sensibilisering hos individer. Gränsvärden för allergena dispersionsfärgämnen från miljö- och hälsocertifieringsorganisationerna BLUESIGN och OEKO-TEX är troligen inte tillräckligt låga för att undvika allergiska reaktioner. Om aktuellt EU- begränsningsförslag gällande hudsensibliserande ämnen i textil och läder införs, kommer gränsvärdena behöva sänkas. / In Europe, there is a growing concern regarding the safety of textile sensitisers, which has become more discussed since the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has received a proposal to limit skin sensitisers within textiles and leather. A large number of disperse dyes, used to color polyester, have sensitising properties. The purpose of this study was to investigate the presence of allergenic disperse dyes and their colorfastness to washing and abrasion for textile garments purchased from markets outside the EU. The tendency of the dyes to leave the garments together with microplastics was also analyzed by examining washing water and weight loss during abrasion. The laboratory results were supplemented with a literature study and interviews with researchers in the subject. Polyester garments purchased from markets outside the EU were chosen to be analyzed because private individuals who import garments are responsible for the chemical content of the goods, but often have a lack of knowledge regarding chemical risks and regulations. Allergenic disperse dyes in concentrations above 10 mg/kg, according to the OEKO-TEX method, were not identified in the garments. Concentrations lower than 10 mg/kg of allergenic disperse dyes were found in the garments and risk assessment showed that one of the levels could possibly indicate a risk. Loss of color in the garments was noted during washing and abrasion. The garment’s color change was estimated to approximately meet issued minimum requirements for color change. In the wash water microplastics and dyestuff were observed at wash temperatures of 40 ℃ and 60 ℃. No measurable weight loss was caused when the garments were abraded with 7500 rub as highest number of rubs. The study concludes that the number of disperse dyes classified as allergenic is increasing and that consumers are experiencing allergic symptoms from new textiles with close exposure that they have purchased. Four of the six examined garments are probably dyed with contaminated dyes containing allergenic disperse dyes. The presence of allergenic disperse dyes in low concentrations should be prevented as they may mimic sensitisation in individuals. Limit values for allergenic disperse dyes from environmental and health certification organizations BLUESIGN and OEKO-TEX are probably not low enough to avoid allergic reactions. If the current EU restriction proposal regarding skin sensitisers in textiles and leather is introduced, the limit values will need to be lowered.

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