Living shorelines and other nature-based solutions have become more widely accepted as a cost-effective, multi-functional, and sustainable approach to coastal resilience. However, in spite of growing stakeholder support, a planning-level understanding of the hydrodynamic impact of living shorelines is not well-developed. Not only do these features vary in size, shape, and structural characteristics, but the wave environment in which they exist can be quiescent or extreme. The work presented in this paper explores the hydrodynamic effects of living shoreline features in such a way that can be generalized across a range of varying physical environments. In a series of Simulation WAves Nearshore (SWAN) simulations, we investigate the effect of wave period, wave height, bed slope, living shoreline feature length in the cross-shore direction, and feature friction coefficient on wave attenuation. Results showed that higher wave period, higher wave height, milder slopes, longer feature lengths, and higher feature roughness largely correlated with higher wave attenuation. However, only on mild slopes did additional feature lengths result in appreciable additional attenuation. Characteristic lengths were thus computed to better illustrate the cost-effectiveness of additional feature lengths given a particular wave environment. These characteristic lengths provide one way to evaluate the hydraulic efficacy of proposed living shoreline projects. In this way, regardless of the particularities of individual project sites, we aim to help planners screen potential living shoreline projects before pursuing more detailed, costly analyses. / Master of Science / Living shorelines and other nature-based solutions have become more widely accepted as a cost-effective, multi-functional, and sustainable approach to coastal resilience. However, in spite of growing stakeholder support, a planning-level understanding of the hydrodynamic impact of living shorelines is not well-developed. Not only do these features vary in size, shape, and structural characteristics, but the wave environment in which they exist can be quiescent or extreme. The work presented in this paper explores the hydrodynamic effects of living shoreline features in such a way that can be generalized across a range of varying physical environments. In a series of Simulation WAves Nearshore (SWAN) simulations, we investigate the effect of wave period, wave height, bed slope, living shoreline feature length in the cross-shore direction, and feature friction coefficient on wave attenuation. Results showed that higher wave period, higher wave height, milder slopes, longer feature lengths, and higher feature roughness largely correlated with higher wave attenuation. However, only on mild slopes did additional feature lengths result in appreciable additional attenuation. Characteristic lengths were thus computed to better illustrate the cost-effectiveness of additional feature lengths given a particular wave environment. These characteristic lengths provide one way to evaluate the hydraulic efficacy of proposed living shoreline projects. In this way, regardless of the particularities of individual project sites, we aim to help planners screen potential living shoreline projects before pursuing more detailed, costly analyses.

The topographical variations of the seas around Taiwan are great, which make the tides complicated. Taiwan is located in the juncture of the tropical and subtropical area. Geographically, it is located within the region of northwestern Pacific typhoon path. These seasonal and geographical situations causing Taiwan frequently threaten by typhoons during summer and autumn. In addition to natural disasters, the coastal area is over developed for the last few decades, which destroys the balance between nature and man. Storms and floods constantly threaten the lowland areas along the coast. An accurate and efficient storm surge model can be used to predict tides and storm surges. The model can be calibrated and verified with the field observations. Data measured by instruments at the tidal station constituting daily tidal variations and storm surge influences during typhoons. The model can offer both predictions to the management institutions and to the general public as pre-warning system and thus taking disaster-prevention measures. This study implements the numerical model, developed by Yu (1993) and Yu et al. (1994) to calculate the hydrodynamic in the seas around Taiwan. The main purpose of this study is to make a calibration and sensitivity analysis of the model parameters. Tidal gauge data around Taiwan coastal stations collected from June to October 2005 are used for the analysis and the comparison between the modeled data and the observations. Two steps have been taken for the model calibration and sensitivity analysis. First step is to calibrate the model for accurate prediction of the astronomical tide, and then the compound tide with meteorological influences. For the calibration of the astronomical tides, sensitivity analysis has been carried out by adjusting the horizontal diffusion coefficient and the bottom friction coefficients used in the model. The sensitivity of the time-step size used in the model and model grids fitted to coastlines are also checked. A depth dependent Chézy numbers are used in the model to describe bottom friction. The model has a better result when the Chézy value varied within 65 to 85. Modifying grids fitted to the coastline has improved the model results significantly. By improving the dynamic phenomenon brought about by the land features, the model calculation fits the real tidal phenomenon better. The analysis has shown that the model is less sensitive to the horizontal diffusion coefficient. Data from 22 tidal stations around Taiwan have been used for the comparisons. The maximum RMSE (root-mean-square error) is about 10 cm at WAi-Pu, whereas the minimum RMSE is about 1 cm for the stations along eastern coast. The calibration of the compound tide is divided into three cases. The first case is to calibrate the forecasted wind field. This has been done by comparing the forecasted wind field from the Central Weather Bureau with the satellite data obtained from QuikSCAT¡XLevel 3. The satellite wind speed has been applied to adjust the forecasted wind speed. The adjusted forecast wind field has shown improvement to the model predictions in the tidal stations south of Taichung, slightly improved in the eastern coast. The second case is tuning the drag coefficient on sea surface used by the hydrodynamic model. Several empirical formulas to describe the sea surface drag have been tested. The model result has shown little influence using various drag formulations. The third case is to single the influences by the meteo-inputs, i.e. the wind field and the atmospheric pressure. The tidal level is more sensitive to the variation of the atmospheric pressure through out the tests carried out during typhoon periods. The model simulation for 2006 using the best selected parameters has shown that the model is consisted with good stability and accuracy for both stormy and calm weather conditions.

Les Pertuis Charentais sont un site d’écosystèmes interconnectés où les courants marins jouent un rôle déterminant. Un modèle de marée à haute résolution a été développé au cours de cette thèse pour comprendre et cartographier les traits principaux de la circulation hydrodynamique dans les Pertuis. Deux axes sont ainsi mis en avant dans cette étude. D’abord, un nouveau modèle de marées dans les Pertuis Charentais a été construit et validé à partir de différentes sources : données marégraphiques, données de courantomètres ADCP et images satellitaires. Une nouvelle approche de calibration de modèle de marée a été développée, basée sur la comparaison de la position de la ligne d’eau, frontière entre l’eau et la terre, avec celle prédite par le modèle. Puis dans un second temps, le transport et les agrégations en « bloom » de populations de méduses Rhizostoma, dont les proliférations et les échouages sont à l’origine de problèmes socio-économiques, ont été simulés numériquement. Des observations in situ ont permis de paramétrer le comportement de nage des méduses dans le modèle. Deux types de comportements des méduses, actif et passif ont été simulés. Les courants de marées en présence des forçages-type météorologiques ont été pris en compte. Les résultats indiquent que le comportement individuel de nage des méduses pourrait être une réponse adaptative aux facteurs abiotiques qui menacent la continuité de leur espèce mais que les courants marins restent la cause première de la formation des blooms. / The Pertuis Charentais are an interconnected ecosystems site where ocean currents play a key role. A high resolution tidal model was developed in this thesis in order to understand the main features of the hydrodynamic flows inside the Pertuis. Two topics were put forward in this study. First, a new tide model for the Pertuis Charentais was build up and validated by using different datasets: tide gauge records, measurements of currents by ADCP and satellite images. A new approach to model calibration was developed by comparing the observed position of the waterline, the boundary between land and water, with that predicted by the model. Secondly, the transport and bloom-like aggregation of the Rhizostoma jellyfish populations were simulated numerically. The jellyfish proliferation and stranding are a source of socio-economic problems. Two types of jellyfish behavior, active and passive were simulated. The tidal currents and typical meteorological forcing were taken into account. The results show that the individual behavior of swimming jellyfish is an adaptive response to abiotic factors for jellyfish survival.

La Mer d’Iroise est observée depuis 2006, par des radars à haute fréquence (HF) qui estiment les courants de surface. Ces mesures ont une finesse temporelle et spatiale pour permettre de capturer la dynamique fine du domaine côtier. Ce travail de thèse vise à la conception et l’application d’une méthode d’assimilation de ces données dans un modèle numérique réaliste pour optimiser le frottement sur le fond et corriger l’état du modèle afin de mieux représenter la circulation résiduelle de marée et les positions des fronts d’Ouessant en mer d’Iroise. La méthode d’assimilation de données utilisée est le Filtre de Kalman d’Ensemble dont l’originalité est l’utilisation d’une modélisation stochastique pour estimer l’erreur du modèle. Premièrement, des simulations d’ensemble ont été réalisées à partir de la perturbation de différents paramètres du modèle considérés comme sources d’erreur : le forçage météo, la rugosité de fond, la fermeture turbulente horizontale et la rugosité de surface. Ces ensembles ont été explorés en termes de dispersion et de corrélation d’ensemble. Un Lisseur de Kalman d’Ensemble a ensuite été utilisé pour optimiser la rugosité de fond (z0) à partir des données de courant de surface et d’un ensemble modèle réalisé à partir d’un z0 perturbé et spatialisé. La méthode a d’abord été testée en expérience jumelle puis avec des observations réelles. Les cartes du paramètre z0, optimisés, réalisées avec des observations réelles, ont ensuite été utilisées dans le modèle sur une autre période et les résultats ont été comparés avec des observations sur la zone. Enfin, des expériences jumelles ont été mises en place pour corriger l’état modèle. Deux méthodes ont été comparées, une prenant en compte la basse fréquence en filtrant la marée des données et du modèle pour réaliser l’analyse ; l’autre prenant en compte tout le signal. Avec ces expériences, on a tenté d’évaluer la capacité du filtre à contrôler à la fois la partie observée du vecteur d’état (courant de surface) et la partie non-observée du système (température de surface). / The Iroise Sea has been observed since 2006 by High Frequency (HF) radars, which estimate surface currents. These measurements offer high resolution and high frequency to capture the dynamics of the coastal domain. This thesis aims at designing and applying a method of assimilation of these data in a realistic numerical model to optimize the bottom friction and to correct the model state in order to improve the representation of the residual tidal circulation and the positions of the Ushant fronts in the Iroise Sea. The method of data assimilation used is the Ensemble Kalman Filter. The originality of this method is the use of a stochastic modeling to estimate the model error. First, ensemble simulations were carried out from the perturbation of various model parameters which are the model error sources: meteorological forcing, bottom friction, horizontal turbulent closure and surface roughness. These ensembles have been explored in terms of dispersion and correlation. An Ensemble Kalman smoother was used to optimize the bottom friction (z0) from the surface current data and from an ensemble produced from a perturbed and spatialized z0. The method is tested with a twin experiment and then with real observations. The optimized maps of parameter z0, produced with the real currents, were used in the model over another period and the results were compared with independent observations. Finally, twin experiments were conducted to test the model state correction. Two approaches were compared; first, only the low frequency, by filtering the tide in the data and in the model, is used to perform the analysis. The other approach takes the whole signal into account. With these experiments, we assess the filter's ability to control both the observed part of the state vector (currents) and the unobserved part of the system (Sea surface Temperature).