Resumo: Este trabalho abordou a determinação quali e quantitativa de enantiômeros de catequinas em extratos e infusões das folhas de espécies do gênero Byrsonima (Malpighiaceae), tais como: B.basiloba, B. cocolobifolia, B. crassa, B. intermedia e B. verbascifolia. O trabalho descreve a determinação rápida e eficiente de catequina, ent- catequina, epicatequina e ent-epicatequina por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência acoplada a detector de arranjo de fotodiodos e dicrísmo circular, usando coluna de fase estaconária quiral. O método possui alta seletividade e permite identificar inequivocadamente diastereômeros de catequinas em matrizes complexas como extratos vegetais, com limites de detecção (0,42 a 0,77 μg mL-1 ) e quantificação (1,27 a 2,32 μg mL-1 ) satisfatórios para as condições analisadas, e valores de precisão (0,3 to 4,8%) e exatidão (70,0 a 110,2%) recomendados pela ANVISA. Com exceção da espécie B. intermedia, quatro espécies do gênero apresentaram em seus extratos e infusões os diastereômeros catequina, epicatequina e ent-epicatequina. Experimentos para avaliar a epimerização da catequina indicaram que a incomum ent-epicatequina não é um artefato, podendo ser um produto do metabolismo de espécies do gênero Byrsonima. Enantiômeros da catequina apresentam diferentes atividades farmacológicas, o que pode causar a ocorrência de efeitos colaterais diversos, danosos à saúde humana. Portanto, esses resultados podem alertar quanto ao consumo indiscriminado de plantas medicinais pela população e contribuir para criação de políticas mais rigorosas no controle de qualidade de fitoterápicos no Brasil / Abstract: This work deals with the qualitative and quantitative determination of catechin and epicatechin enantiomers both in extracts and infusions from the leaves of the Byrsonima (Malpighiaceae) species (B.basiloba, B. cocolobifolia, B. crassa, B. intermedia and B. verbascifolia). This work describes a simple and reliable analytical high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method coupled with photodiode array detector and circular dichroism for simultaneous determination of catechin, ent-catechin, epicatechin and ent-epicatechin. The direct separation was obtained in normal phase by HPLC using chiral stationary phase. The method has high selectivity. Regardless of variations in retention time, it was possible to identify unequivocally the enantiomers of catechin and epicatechin in complex matrices like plant extracts with satisfactory limit of detection (0.42 to 0.77 μg mL-1 ) and limite of quantification (1.27 to 2.32 μg mL-1 ). Under the conditions used, precision values were 0.3 to 4.8%, whereas accuracy values were 75.0 to 110.2%, recommended by ANVISA. Aside from B. intermedia specie, the other four Byrsonima species presented catechin, epicatechin and ent-epicatechin diastereomers both in methanolic extract and infusions. Experiments were carried out for verification the possibility of catechin epimerization. It was observed that the unusual ent- epicatechin was not an artifact, but product of Byrsonima species metabolism. Enantiomers of catechin present dissimilar pharmacological activities, which may cause the occurrence of various side effects, harmful to human health. Therefore, these results may warn about the indiscriminate use of medicinal plants by the population and contribute to the quality control of Brazilian herbal medicines / Orientador: Wagner Vilegas / Coorientador: Lourdes Campaner dos Santos / Banca: Mary Rosa Rodrigues de Marchi / Banca: Maysa Furlan / Banca: José Arimatéia Dantas Lopes / Banca: Suzana da Costa Santos / Doutor

Background: The resource demanding textile industry has long been linked to the linear economy, an economy contributing to negative effects on the environment. However, there is an alternative to the linear economy, namely the circular economy. In a circular economy, a closed-loop design is promoted in order to eliminate the negative effects of the linear economy. However, in the context of the Swedish textile industry, there is a lack of case studies on the topic and especially regarding experienced barriers to a circular business model as well as drivers and enablers needed to overcome these barriers. Purpose: The purpose of this research is to support the development of the Sustainable Development Goal 12: sustainable production and consumption. This is done through exploring the experienced barriers to circular business models among companies in the Swedish textile industry at a macro and micro level, but also drivers and enablers in order to overcome these barriers. Method: This research follows an interpretivist view and an inductive approach based on a cross-case analysis of five companies. The research is qualitative and semi-structured interviews were conducted with open questions. The identified themes were analysed and interpreted with a careful awareness of the trustworthiness and ethical considerations. Conclusion: The result showed five barriers which appeared to be the most common across the companies. Namely, technological un-readiness, circularity costs, market unacceptance, financial shortage and knowledge gap. For these barriers, possible solutions in the form of drivers and enablers were identified. According to the findings, the identified drivers and enablers which have the greatest potential of positive impact on the barriers were as follows: knowledge sharing, collaboration, regulatory changes, more research and refocus of efforts

Circular economy is considered one of the most viable approaches to sustainability and it has gained a lot of traction in recent years. It challenges the linear approach to production and consumption that generates waste and is unsustainable for the planet and future generations. It is crucial to counteract the negative impacts of production on the environment by implementing new and effective business strategies that are compatible with circular economy. Nowadays, manufacturing industries are struggling to make the transition towards circularity because of the intrinsic complexity of adapting new business models, product development, production processes and supply chain management to a non-linear approach. The literature on the transition towards circular economy extensively covers the aspects connected to either one of the above-mentioned domain-specific areas, developing different tools such as roadmaps and frameworks to support companies in the transition for a specific area. Yet, there is a lack of a systematic tool that can give support in each stage of the process based on the different business areas that need to be adapted to circularity. The purpose of this study is to explore the existing state-of-the-art knowledge with a systematic and holistic approach to factors that are connected to circular economy, so to create a practical tool for facilitating the process of transitioning towards circularity in a step- by-step manner, in connection to activities and strategies that can be implemented in different business domains. An explorative case study in a manufacturing company in the construction equipment industry was carried out, with a twofold purpose: firstly, to gather, analyse and frame the existing state-of-the-art knowledge on the implementation of circular economy. Secondly, to explore the suggested multi readiness level model with the case study company in order to validate it. In order to do so, a set of ten semi-structured interviews with senior managers and experts in the field was carried out to gather valuable insights and practical knowledge. The outcome of this study is a multi-readiness level model for transitioning towards circular economy that explores the most important strategies and activities that should be implemented by a manufacturing company in four different areas of intervention, namely Ecosystem of External Partners, Customer and Business model, Company’s Culture and Internal Capabilities and Design and Product Development. Each area of intervention will be presented in connection to identified strategies and activities that must be implemented to reach circularity.

Our society is all the more shifting towards focusing on the impact that we have on the world’s climate and reducing our environmental impact is getting increasingly popular. Amongst efforts to reduce the impact of the products that we use, the field of Circular Design has emerged as a solution that tackles the problem at its roots in a holistic way, aiming to not only reduce the climate impact of products, but to transition our entire society into a sustainable one through the implementation of a Circular Economy. This ideal economic state is structured around ensuring that products are not simply produced, used and then discarded, but instead that the value of products are never lost. This is done by circulating them in different stages, ensuring that they are reused by other people, refurbished to a good condition, remanufactured as a new product, or that their materials are recycled and used in other products. This holistic approach currently seems to be the most viable for transitioning our society into one structured around sustainability.   In the midst of the increasing interest in sustainability, companies are starting the move towards implementing changes with this in mind. In the electric guitar industry, .strandberg* stands out as one of the more well-known brands that is doing just that, by introducing product design changes to their electric guitars with the goal of reducing material waste and moving away from materials that are becoming scarce in the world. This can be seen as a first step towards changing the entire industry, that is currently focusing mostly on constantly manufacturing new products, to one that focuses on the value of existing products and how to maintain this for as long as possible. The electric guitar as a product is one that commonly sees several users during its lifetime already, and those with high degrees of quality and performance, such as .strandberg*’s products, can potentially be used and kept in a functional state indefinitely. As such, introducing Circular Design to this product category stands as a challenge.   During the course of this thesis project, the process of Design Thinking and the skillset of an Industrial Design Engineer has been used to take on this challenge of Circular Design applied to the electric guitar. Current circular products have been analyzed to find success factors, inspiration and knowledge of the implications that Circular Design has on product development. The work included a comprehensive literature review of the field to take part of the existing academic knowledge, contextual and user research to understand the current situation as well as the needs of the relevant user group, idea generation to find innovative solutions, visual prototyping of concepts and the use of evaluative methods to understand how well the solutions would work.   The final results of the project ended up being more theoretical than anticipated, as it was found that .strandberg*’s products in their design already fit many of the criteria for circular products. Instead, a circular business model system (CBMS) was developed, that details a process wherein .strandberg*’s newly produced as well as existing products can circulate through a sequence of users, while also incentivizing these users to take care of their products and ensure that their functional service life is maximized. The CBMS stands as a broader value offering to both .strandberg* as a company and to the users of their products.   Recommendations for future work with the CBMS includes testing alternative material choices with physical prototypes, launching the model at a small scale to investigate its validity and work out eventual problems as well as to build partnerships with actors, either on a small but potentially on a global scale, to be able to implement aspects of the CBMS.

Circular economy is a topic that has gained a lot of attention during the last decades. Even so, there is still a gap of research at the micro-level regarding how circular economy influences financial performance. This paper aims to investigate if circular economy has a positive impact on financial performance indicators. Furthermore, it explores whether the firm size has an impact on the level of circularity as well as if circularity has an impact on financial performance. Using a sample of Swedish companies, this paper applied the framework of 9Rs to enhance the knowledge of the level of circularity.A survey was sent to 239 SMEs within the manufacturing industry in Sweden to gather information about the expected relation between circular economy and the financial performance. Previous research points out that companies struggle to implement circularity since the systems are not yet developed. This paper cannot confirm the reasons behind the low number of companies with adopted circular processes, which could be investigated further by other researchers. However, it was found that most companies are still focusing on sustainability and only a few companies have implemented circularity in their business model. Furthermore, firm size does not have an impact on the level of circularity which could be due to either that the majority of participating companies is classified as small or that most companies are still linear. At last, the analysis results show that circular economy has a positive influence on the financial KPIs sales, return on assets and economic value added and that the higher level of circularity, the greater the impact.

En los últimos años los países prestan atención con el cuidado y protección del medio ambiente, por ello se dictaminan normas y leyes que incentiven el buen manejo de los residuos sólidos. En el Perú existe el Decreto Legislativo 1278 Ley de Gestión Integral de Residuos Sólidos, pero la inadecuada disposición de los neumáticos en desuso genera problemas ambientales y de salud. Más aún, no se aprovechan las materias primas de estos bienes para convertirlos en otros productos aplicando la Economía Circular, es decir priorizando la recuperación y valorización de estos productos; lo que conlleva a una reducción en la generación de residuos sólidos. La presente tesis consiste en conocer los beneficios de la implementación del principio de la responsabilidad extendida del productor (REP) en los neumáticos “fuera de carretera”. (OTR por sus siglas en inglés [off the road]). En ese sentido, en el capítulo I se presenta el contexto del problema de investigación, así como la formulación del problema y sus respectivos objetivos. El capítulo II busca contextualizar la situación global, regional y nacional sobre el principio REP en los neumáticos. En el capítulo III se aborda la metodología, los segmentos y categorías referente al tema de investigación. En el capítulo IV se desarrolla los resultados obtenidos y finalmente, en el capítulo V se recaban, interpretan y analizan las conclusiones y recomendaciones de estudio. Asimismo, se detallan las barreras y brechas de investigación. / In recent years, countries pay attention to the care and protection of the environment, so regulations and laws are enacted that encourage the good management of solid waste. In Perú there is the Law 1278, but the inadequate disposal of tires out of use generates environmental and health problems. Furthermore, the raw materials of these goods are not used to convert them into other products by applying the Circular Economy, that is, prioritizing the recovery and valuation of these products; which leads to a reduction in the generation of solid waste. This thesis consists of knowing the benefits of implementing the principle of extended producer responsibility (REP) in “off-road” tires in (off the road]). In this sense, Chapter I presents the context of the research problem, as well as the formulation of the problem and its respective objectives. Chapter II seeks to contextualize the global, regional and national situation regarding the REP principle in tires. Chapter III deals with the methodology, segments and categories related to the research topic. Chapter IV develops the results obtained and finally, Chapter V collects, interprets and analyzes the conclusions and study recommendations. Likewise, the barriers and research gaps are listed. / Tesis

La industria de la moda es la segunda más contaminante del mundo y se encuentra operando a expensas de factores ambientales y sociales. Debido a eso, la moda sostenible toma un rol importante al posicionarse como una alternativa para el futuro de dicha industria. Esta surge a partir de los años sesenta y se basa en el equilibrio de la Tríada de la Sostenibilidad, compuesta por el ambiente, la sociedad, la economía; y está relacionada a la economía circular o ciclo de vida del producto. Actualmente, la sostenibilidad en la moda ha adquirido mayor importancia y notoriedad en el Perú. No obstante, aún existen desafíos como el desconocimiento sobre cómo operar un negocio de moda sostenible y la comprensión de su concepto. Es por ello que la presente investigación tiene como objetivo general conocer cómo la marca Ayni trabaja la moda sostenible desde el año 2009 hasta el 2020 en Lima. Para ello, se elaborará un estudio de caso cualitativo de la marca mencionada, al ser una con gran reconocimiento y participación en el Directorio de la Asociación de Moda Sostenible del Perú. En este se recogerá información mediante diversas técnicas como la observación, entrevistas a profundidad, revisión de documentación de la marca y revisión bibliográfica para contar con diversos datos que proporcionen información profunda e integral sobre el caso por analizar. Es importante mencionar que este se abordará especialmente a partir del análisis de dos componentes: la Tríada de la Sostenibilidad y la economía circular. / The fashion industry is considered the second most polluting in the world and is operating at the expense of environmental and social factors. Because of this, sustainable fashion takes an important role in positioning itself as a worldwide alternative to the future of this industry. It arises from the sixties and is based on the balance of the Triple Bottom Line, which includes environmental, social and economic factors; and its related to the circular economy or product lifecycle. Currently, sustainability in fashion has become more important and is constantly evolving in Peru. However, there are still challenges such as the lack of knowledge about how to operate a sustainable fashion business and understanding its concept. The present research has as general objective to know how Ayni has worked sustainable fashion from 2009 to 2020 in Lima. For this objective, a qualitative case study of the mentioned brand will be developed, being Ayni one with great recognition and participation in the Board of the “Asociación de Moda Sostenible del Perú”. The information will be obtained through techniques such as observation, interviews, review of brand documentation and bibliographic review to have various data that provide in-depth and comprehensive information on the case to be analyzed. It is important to mention that this will be approached especially from the analysis of two components: The Triple Bottom Line and the circular economy or product lifecycle.

Background: Different social, environmental and economical aspects indicate the current need for sustainability and build the imperative for a change in the fashion industry from the prevailing “take-make-dispose” consumption habit to more circular practices, which minimise the input of resources. According to research, the most direct way to capture value and design out waste and pollution in the textile system lays therewith in increasing the number of times a garment is worn. Therefore, the key challenge is to subvert the habit that garments are perceived as disposable and to increase their utilisation. Purpose: The purpose of this thesis is to investigate how sharing events influence the use phase of garments through the perspective of organisers and participants of such events. Method: The study implemented a qualitative research nature and followed thereby an exploratory research design and strategy. Through semi-structured interviews, event organisers of different organisations with a well-founded experience in sharing events - staged in a Circular Fashion environment - provided their insights on the influence sharing events obtain regarding the use phase of garments. The research strategy supplemented the theories and empirical data with the insights of participants of a sharing event through self-completion questionnaires. Conclusion: Besides their practical ability to pass on garments to various users, sharing events are indicated to prolong the garment usage by promoting a possible change in the consumer’s mindset. Doing so, different aspects connected to Event Management, -Strategy as well as additional offers and activities, besides swapping, are facilitating. As the research outcome hints, the sharing event model, as one of the simplest forms of collaborative garment consumption, is indicated to influence the usage by enabling a change from garment consumer to user.

The textile industry has a substantial negative impact on the environment. In order to decrease the environmental impact, the industry needs to transition to a more sustainable and circular system. One way of doing so is to increase participation in circular practices, like participating in circular end-of-life practices or purchasing second-hand or recycled textile products. This Master’s thesis explores the consumer role in this transition and is structured in a two-step approach. The first part investigates how consumers’ value and risk perceptions of different circular practices in the textile industry are related to their consumption behaviour by conducting a consumer survey (N = 3000) in three European countries. The second part of the thesis then identifies from an organisational stakeholder perspective how the consumer survey results can be practically applied in the textile industry. The thesis follows a mixed method approach, combining a quantitative consumer survey with a qualitative stakeholder survey.The results show that in most cases, consumers’ value perceptions of circular textile practices are significantly positively related to their consumption behaviour or participation in these, whereas perceived risks are negatively related. The findings also show which individual value and risk dimensions are related to which specific circular practice. Based on these results, organisational stakeholders identify different possibilities on how these findings can be practically applied in the textile industry. Suggestions focus on encouraging specific circular practices shown to be important to consumers, adapting marketing strategies and developing new policies to increase participation in more sustainable and circular alternatives.

As more companies in the resource-intensive fashion industry start their transition journeys towards circular business models (CBMs), driven by social and regulatory pressures, understanding how companies navigate this transformative process is crucial. This thesis contributes to prevailing research by analysing the challenges faced by linear companies in the fashion industry when adopting more circular models through various initiatives, dividing them by the CBM they apply, and considering their corresponding solutions to these challenges. By interviewing nine companies and four industry experts, we investigated the CBMs: product life extension, circular supplies, resource recovery, and product-as-a-service. Our findings indicate some common challenges include uncertain market demands, high costs and complex logistics, which caused profitability concerns and impeded companies’ transitions. Meanwhile, some challenges were CBM or company-specific. Companies employing circular supplies and resource recovery models faced cost considerations related to material price and availability, while product life extension models struggled with material access and limitations within the organisation or network. Significant market challenges were observed for the product-as-a-service model. To cope with these challenges, companies maintained small-scale CBMs and/or gradually scaled them based on changing circumstances or built collaborative networks within the value chain. Strengthening internal human capital was another coping strategy.