Thesis (M.S.)--University of Wisconsin--Madison, 1975. / eContent provider-neutral record in process. Description based on print version record. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (M.S.)--Ohio State University. / Bibliography: leaves 100-103. Available online via OhioLINK's ETD Center

Thesis (M.A.)--State University of New York at Binghamton, Department of Anthropology, 2005. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 81-91).

Thesis (M.Phil.)--Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, 2005. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 105-111). Also available in electronic version.

Thesis (MA--Art and Design) -- Auckland University of Technology.

The main objective of the present study was to determine the relative role and importance of worsted suiting fabric fibre blend vis-à-vis fabric structural parameters, on the comfort related properties of 12 clothing ensembles, each comprising a different man’s suit, but the same wool/nylon underwear and cotton shirt. To achieve the objective, the comfort related properties, namely thermal resistance (Rt) and water vapour resistance (Ret) and water vapour permeability index (Im), of the clothing ensembles, as determined by means of WalterTM, a thermal sweating fabric manikin, were subjected to multi-linear and multi-quadratic analysis, as dependent variables, with the various suiting fabric parameters, namely weight, thickness, density, porosity, air permeability and wool content, as independent variables. It was found that the multi-quadratic regression analysis was able to best explain the observed differences in the clothing ensemble comfort related properties, in terms of the differences in suiting fabric properties. The regression analyses were used to isolate and quantify the effects of the various fabric and fibre content variables on the above mentioned comfort related properties of the various clothing ensembles. This study indicated that the suiting fabric structural properties (notably air permeability), had a more significant influence than either fibre blend or suiting fabric, as measured on WalterTM, a thermal sweating fabric manikin.

Typescript.

Identification of fibres, particularly in blends, requires knowledge of their characteristics. Individual Identifying features between wool and mohair fibres were investigated in this study using a Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM), Fourier Transform Infrared-Attenuated Total Reflection (FTIR-ATR), Fourier Transform Raman and Atomic Force Microscope (AFM). This study confirmed that wool and mohair can be differentiated and identified in blends using the cuticle scale height (CSH) criterion, wool having an average CSH of 0.6 ± 0.1 μm and mohair having an average CSH of 0.4 ± 0.1 μm. The AFM provided highly reproducible CSH results, which also confirmed the SEM results that indeed wool and mohair could be differentiated using the CSH as criterion. The AFM gave a CSH value of 0.9 ± 0.2 μm for wool and 0.6 ± 0.2 μm for mohair, the difference between the two results being statistically significant according to the student t-test. It has been demonstrated that wool and mohair identification in blends is possible, by using the AFM to measure CSH, although the method is very time consuming and might be expensive. The FTIR-ATR showed similar spectra for wool and mohair fibres, confirming that the two fibre types consist of the same polymer material. Nevertheless, a difference was observed in the ratios of the relative intensities of the amide I (around 1630 cm-1) to the amide II (around 1515cm-1) absorption bands. The FT Raman provided similar spectra for the wool and mohair fibres, although a possible distinguishing feature between the two fibres could be the intensities of the alkyl side chains chemical band near 2940 cm-1 in the spectra of the two fibre types. According to the results obtained in this study, the FTIR-ATR and the FT Raman techniques may have potential for differentiating between wool and mohair but this requires further investigation.

The purpose of this investigation is to determine if clothing fabrics act as passive pollen collectors, and to determine if different fabrics vary with regard to the abundance and type of pollen trapped. Five of the most common fabrics in the United States (cotton, wool, polyester, silk and linen) were used to trap pollen. The pollen collecting apparatus was constructed of a 30 cm diameter circular needlepoint hoop, which vertically rotated freely, and was mounted on a dowel that was driven into the soil to chest height. Five pollen collectors, each with one of the five fabrics were placed at a collection site in rural, suburban, and urban habitats in Rhode Island for a 24 h period at weekly or biweekly intervals throughout 2002-2003. Pollen was washed from each of the fabrics and acetolysed. Total pollen per cm2 removed from each of the fabric types was estimated using a haemocytometer. The pollen types were identified, and 200 grains were counted to determine the relative abundance of the various pollen types recovered from the fabrics. Clothing fabrics act as passive pollen collectors and the flora recovered from the fabric represent the qualitative and quantitative components of the pollen rain for that specific day. There are quantitative differences among the relative abundance of pollen types from the three habitats (urban, suburban, and rural). Washing with water and a detergent eliminates a majority of the pollen from the fabrics.

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