published_or_final_version / Business Administration / Master / Master of Business Administration

published_or_final_version / Industrial and Manufacturing Systems Engineering / Doctoral / Doctor of Philosophy

No description available.

A discussion of the important aspects informing my work, including, ideology, and feminism among other issues.

Esta pesquisa de mestrado dispõe-se a estudar as relações existentes entre a percepção sensorial têxtil e o corpo vestido, sob a perspectiva de mulheres videntes e não videntes, buscando as semelhanças e diferenças entre essas formas de percepção para assim refletir sobre a ação dos sentidos na interação com o produto têxtil e, mais especificamente, a influência da visão na percepção tátil. Para isso, foram realizadas pesquisas teóricas e práticas que abordam a relação simbólica do tecido com a sociedade, tendo como base a observação de um grupo formado por 45 mulheres com cegueira total congênita, adquirida e também por mulheres dotadas do sentido da visão. Os diálogos estabelecidos na relação do universo feminino e do têxtil como matéria-prima base para a criação das roupas e como as diversas variações de tecidos e suas funções em contato com a pele estimulam diferentes sensações, buscando enfatizar a importância da percepção e sua influência nas preferências e escolhas de consumo de produtos de moda. Com o objetivo de analisar como é possível estabelecer diferentes formas de perceber o tecido e o corpo que o veste e a maneira como auxiliam na formação da identidade visual como elemento constitutivo de uma cultura contemporânea / This dissertation proposes to study the relations between the textile sensorial perception and the dressed body under the perspective of seeing and non-seeing women, researching the similarities and differences from these ways of perception and, specifically, the visions influence over the textile perception. For this, it was made several theoretical and practical researches that approaches the fabrics symbolic relation with the society, which was based on the observation of a group with 45 women with congenital total blindness, by women who have acquired it and also by seing women. The dialogues stated in the relation between the feminine universe and the textile as an element to the creation of clothes and how different tissues and its functions in contact with the skin stimulates different sensations, seeking to emphasize the importance of the perception and its influence on personal preferences and fashion produts consumptions choices. It was analyzed how it is possible to connect different ways of perceiving the fabric and the body that wears it so that assists on the formation of the visual identity as an element to institute a contemporary culture

Typescript (photocopy). / Digitized by Kansas Correctional Industries

The computational modeling of clothing has received increasing attention since the late 1980's with the desire to study and animate clothing-wearer interactions. Within a clothing modeling framework, it is necessary to model the mechanical behavior of woven fabrics. An important aspect of modeling the mechanics of woven fabrics is capturing realistic stress-strain behaviors which are invariably anisotropic, nonlinear, and hysteretic in that they feature irrecoverable deformation when loadings are removed from the fabric. The objective of this research is to develop a fabric constitutive model that captures the primary features of anisotropy, nonlinearity, and hysteresis, and that can be easily implemented in a nonlinear, large deformation shell finite element framework for general clothing-wearer interaction modeling. To achieve the objective, biaxial responses of four different woven fabrics were experimentally measured under a battery of load-unload uniaxial stress tests performed in the fabrics' warp, weft, and bias 45° directions. Axial deformations were measured precisely using LVDTs, and transverse deformations were measured less precisely using photogrammetric methods. Such measurements yielded insight on the different fabrics' membrane properties such as nonlinear Young's moduli in the warp and weft directions, shear moduli, and Poisson's ratios. These membrane behaviors were captured in an incremental constitutive model that uses polynomial fitting of a fabric's loading warp and weft Young's moduli, and polynomial fitting of the membrane shear modulus. Measured membrane Poisson's ratios of the different fabrics were found to be asymmetrical and highly variable between fabric types. All of these effects were integrated in a nonsymmetrical incremental constitutive model that relates Piola-Kirchhoff stress to Green-Lagrangian strain. For numerical implementation in a shell finite element framework, the woven fabric's warp and weft directions relative to an individual element's lamina coordinate system are specified in the undeformed configuration of the fabric and are denoted as the local material coordinate system. As the fabric undergoes arbitrary deformations, the local Piola-Kirchoff stress, the Green-Lagrange strain, and its increment at a point in the fabric are transformed to the material coordinate system in which the stress is updated. The updated state of Piola-Kirchoff stress in the material coordinate system is then rotated back into the local lamina coordinate system for usage in finite element force and stiffness calculations. This new realistic material model for woven fabrics is successfully implemented and tested in a variety of computations such as simulation of quasi-static material tests, and dynamic fabric "drape" and "poke" tests.

An understanding of the physical and chemical nature of archaeological textiles is an important prerequisite for their successful conservation treatment, display and storage. Ancient Egyptian linen textiles were examined through a combination of optical microscopy, environmental scanning electron microscopy (ESEM), ion chromatography (IC), and energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDXA). These analytical techniques were used to distinguish between flax fibres, foreign matter present on and within flax fibres, and natron or other salts absorbed into the linen fibres in a form of partial mineralization. The use of ESEM enabled the observation and recording of the movement of salts, in real time, during cycles of hydration and dehydration. Few studies have been undertaken to date on the dynamics of salt crystallisation within organic archaeological materials, and none previous to this has been published showing the dynamics of salt crystallisation within archaeological textiles. Once the dynamics of salt crystallisation were viewed and recorded it became possible to investigate methods for the treatment of salt affected textiles through washing trials followed by alternative methods of drying. The release of salts from linen samples during washing in deionized water was monitored using IC and ESEM with EDXA, showing the pattern of salt removal and retention. The use of IC, ESEM and EDXA to monitor salt removal in textiles has not previously been reported. A conservation treatment for ancient Egyptian linen was developed, incorporating a long water washing to remove salts, soils and organic deposits, followed immediately by carefully controlled freeze drying. This was effective in preserving the integrity of the ancient linen. By combining archaeological, historical and chemical data, this pilot study of the effects of salts upon and within linen textiles has widened our understanding of the role played by salts in both the deterioration and the preservation of the textiles. / Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)

The axilla is a major source of human body odour from which the characteristic musky, urinous or acidic odours emanate, and are predominantly due to bacterial metabolism of the protein-rich fluid secreted by the apocrine and sebaceous glands located in this area (Senol and Fireman, 1999). Clothing has been implicated in contributing to body odour intensity, possibly even increasing the intensity (Dravnieks, et al., 1968; Shelley, et al., 1953) by the transfer of secretions, skin debris and bacteria from the body to the fabric substrate. Despite much anecdotal evidence indicating that some fibres and fabrics are better at limiting odour intensity than others, there appears to be no published research confirming this. The purpose of this study therefore, was to determine whether fabrics varying in fibre content (cotton, wool, polyester) and fabric knit structure (interlock, single jersey, 1x1 rib) differed in the extent to which they retained and emanated axillary odour following wear, and whether the intensity of odour was linked to the number of bacteria transferred to the fabrics. A procedure for collecting odour on fabrics was developed as was a method for evaluating odour through use of a sensory panel. Total aerobic bacteria and aerobic coryneform bacteria extracted from the fabrics were counted to determine if an association between bacterial counts and fabrics existed. Sensory analysis recognises the unique capability of humans as odour-detecting instruments whereas, instrumental analysis has the potential to offer information on the concentration and identification of axillary compounds, which a human assessor cannot. To investigate a new method for detecting axillary odour on apparel fabrics, proton transfer reaction mass spectrometry (PTR-MS) was used to analyse volatiles emitted from fabrics differing in fibre type. After removal of garments from the human body, axillary odour can be detected on fabrics, with the intensity of odour being strongly influenced by the fibre type from which the fabrics had been made. Polyester fabrics emanated odour of high intensity, cotton that of mid-low odour intensity, and wool fabrics were low odour. Fabric structural properties such as thickness, mass per unit area and openness of knit structure also had an effect on odour intensity. However, as the principal factor influencing odour intensity was fibre, only fabrics characterised by a high intensity (i.e. polyester) were influenced by structural properties. Differences in odour intensity among fabrics were not necessarily related to bacterial numbers, and no �inherent antimicrobial� properties were evident for any of the fabrics. Bacterial populations persisted in all fabrics up to 28 days. A decline in numbers was apparent for high-odour polyester fabrics, while numbers in low-odour wool fabrics remained relatively stable. PTR-MS detected compounds likely to be short-chain carboxylic acids which increased in the headspace above the polyester fabrics after 7 days. However, this increase was not evident for either the wool or cotton fabrics. Therefore, bacterial numbers per se cannot be a predictor of the odour intensity emanating from fabrics at least on the basis of these fabrics and fibres. The intensity of axillary odour emanating from fabrics was found inversely related to fibre hygroscopicity. Keywords:fibre content, fabric structure, axillary odour, sensory analysis, bacteria, corynebacteria, instrumental analysis, PTR-MS

The object of this study was to identify microscopic differences among six selected cultivars of harakeke traditionally used by Maori in weaving. The cultivars were Arawa, Makaweroa, Paretaniwha, Takaiapu, Takirikau, and Tapamangu. The effectiveness of different microscopy techniques for taking measurements of the dimensions of ultimate fibres using a factorial experimental design was investigated in part A. Constant variables were geographical location, location of specimens along the leaf, season (winter), individual plant, fan, north-facing fan, and age of plant (approximately seven years), and cultivars (Paretaniwha and Tapamangu). Experimental variables were the microscopy techniques used and measurement axis. Techniques selected use on further cultivars in part B were transverse sections of leaf specimens 4 m thick, embedded in Paraplast� and observed using LM, and non-fixed ultimate fibres observed using SEM. In part B the dimensions of ultimate fibres from the six selected cultivars of harakeke were measured, and analysed (ANOVA and Tukey's HSD), and the transverse section shapes of fibre aggregates were observed. Transverse widths of ultimate fibres ranged from 10.15 m (Takaipu) -12.80 m (Paretaniwha). Ultimate fibre lengths ranged from 3735 m (Takirikau) - 4751 m (Makaweroa). The cultivars prizes for muka, Arawa and Makaweroa, had the longest and finest ultimate fibre bundles more uniform in transverse-sectional shape than the other cultivars studied and perhaps this explains their selection for extraction of muka. Takirikau had a high yield of ultimate fibre bundles, and perhaps this makes extraction of muka worthwhile. Paretaniwha differed from the other five cultivars studied having an average number of ultimate fibre bundles per unit width that were narrow and non-uniform in shape, and composed of short, thick, ultimate fibre cells. The microscopic structure of muka from six selected cultivars of harakeke used traditionally for weaving varied and may explain differences perceived by weavers, and that different end uses are preferred for various cultivars.