Damage initiation and growth under compression-compression fatigue loading were investigated for a stitched uniweave material system with an underlying AS4/3501-6 quasi-isotropic layup. Performance of unnotched specimens having stitch rows at either 0° or 90° to the loading direction was compared. Special attention was given to the effects of stitching-related manufacturing defects. Damage evaluation techniques included edge replication, stiffness monitoring, X-ray radiography, residual compressive strength, and laminate sectioning. It was found that the manufacturing defect of inclined stitches had the greatest adverse effect on material performance. 0° and 90° specimen performances were generally the same. While the stitches were the source of damage initiation, they also slowed damage propagation both along the length and across the width and affected through the thickness damage growth. A pinched layer zone formed by the stitches particularly affected damage initiation and growth. The compression failure mode was transverse shear for all specimens, both in static compression and fatigue cycling tests. Specimens without stitches were not available for comparison. / Master of Science

The original goal of this research was to produce a user friendly program that could simulate fabric drape on a manikin through computer graphics. This graphics program operates with a data base of fabric properties in order to create draped fabric shapes for a variety of fabrics as they would form a garment on the human body (Dhande, Rao, Tavakkoli, and Moore, 1993). A modification of the Fabric Research Laboratories (FRL) Drapemeter was developed with interchangeable pedestals and platform disks in order to investigate the effects of drape overhang length and different platform shapes and radii of edges on the node counts and drape values of two medium weight woven apparel fabrics and to provide a means for collecting data needed for the graphics program. Specimens were cut from two medium weight fabrics into circles with 10, 14, and 18 inch diameters and ovals with lOX 11 and 18 X 19 inch diameters. Statistical analysis indicated that the modified drapemeter measures fabric drape as accurately as the FRL drapemeter; therefore, the modified drapemeter was found to be reliable for measuring drape. ANOVA factorial analysis revealed that pedestal height can be altered without concern for precision in drape measurement. Drape coefficients were found to be significantly affected by fabric drape overhang length. Statistical analysis also indicated a significant relationship between platform shapes and drape coefficients. Drape coefficients for platform edge radii were found to be significantly different but without a linear relationship. / Master of Science

Ethoxyl capped hydroxypropyl lignin (IIP-EL) was used as a finishing agent for cotton fabric to impart the property of crease recovery to the fabric. The synthesis of the finish involved two steps: Synthesis of phenyl N( 3 - cyanato 4 methyl phenyl) carbamate by reacting phenol and Tolylene diisocyanate (TDI) in a 1:1 mole ratio. Reaction of the above prepolymer with the modified lignin (HP- EL) using a mole ratio of 1:20 to form a lignin carbamate. The lignin carbamate finish was crosslinked to cotton cellulose fabric through carbamoyl linkages when the fabric was cured. There is emperical evidence for the chemical crosslinking of cellulose with lignin. The effects of the finish on the fabric physical properties like durable press rating, dimensional stability, tensile strength, abrasion resistance, warp and weft recovery angle were investigated. Analysis of the results showed improvement in the durable press rating and excellent retention of tensile strength and abrasion resistance. The results of warp and weft recovery angle tests which relate to durable press properties, suggest the need to further investigate the possibility of using a different chain-extended lignin to achieve improved results. / Master of Science

A one-dimensional infiltration/cure model was developed to simulate fabrication of advanced textile composites by the resin film infusion process. The simulation model relates the applied temperature and pressure processing cycles, along with the experimentally measured compaction and permeability characteristics of the fabric preforms, to the temperature distribution, the resin degree of cure and viscosity, and the infiltration flow front position as a function of time. The model also predicts the final panel thickness, fiber volume fraction, and resin mass for full saturation as a function of compaction pressure. The infiltration model is based on D’arcy’s law for flow through porous media. Composite panels were fabricated using the RTM film infusion technique from knitted, knitted/stitched, and 2-D woven carbon preforms and Hercules 3501-6 resin. Prior to fabrication, the deflection and permeability of the preforms were measured as a function of compaction pressure. Measurements of the temperature distribution, the resin viscosity and degree of cure, and the infiltration flow front position were compared with the RTM simulation model results. The model predictions were within 12% of the experimental results. Fabric composites were fabricated at different compaction pressures and temperature cycles to determine the effects of the processing on the properties. The composites were C-scanned and micrographed to determine the quality of each panel. Composite panels fabricated using different temperature cycles to the same state of cure and similar compaction pressures were found to have similar compressive and shear properties. Advanced cure cycles, developed from the RTM simulation model, were utilized to reduce the total cure cycle times by a factor of 3 and the total infiltration times by a factor of 2. / Master of Science

Textiles may be used as a vehicle to penetrate and exemplify a society's customs and traditions. This dissertation concentrates on the Kuba cloths from Zaire and particularly focuses on the social and political implications associated with these textiles. Part One explores the economic aspects of the cloths and the values of work, wealth, status and titleholding among the Kuba. The Kuba's aesthetic preference for pattern and design will be contemplated in relation to the cloths and as an illustration of this culture's concern with decoration and display. Part Two of this study examines the occasions for which these cloths are adorned. It will be observed that these celebrations and rituals, in conjunction with their ceremonial modes of dress, not only underline the importance of the nation and its ideologies and customs (as examined in Part One) but serve to acknowledge ethnic identity, as well as maintain and perpetuate the social and political order of the Kuba. / Art History, Visual Arts and Musicology / M.A. (History of Art)

Electromagnetic wave absorbing properties of SiC-based and alumina ceramic woven fabrics have been investigated. Electrical conductivities of SiC-based ceramic woven fabrics were modified by heat treatment in air resulting in their oxidation. Surface properties of alumina woven fabrics were altered by gold-sputtering resulting in a high conductivity layer on the surface of the wovens. Electromagnetic wave interactions of single layer and double layered combinations of these ceramic woven fabrics were determined in 17-40 GHz frequency range using &ldquo / free-space&rdquo / method. Electromagnetic wave absorption potential of ceramic woven fabrics with different chemical compositions and woven types were correlated with their material properties by X-ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy and electrical conductivity measurements. Effects of modifications and varying woven fabric arrangements in combinations on the electromagnetic wave absorption potential of the ceramic woven fabrics have been discussed. Various double layer combinations of SiC-based and alumina woven fabrics revealed a promising potential in terms of both reduced reflection and transmission resulting in more than ~95% absorption in millimeter wavelength range, which makes them powerful candidate materials for electromagnetic wave absorption applications.

Pre-Hispanic geometric art forms In Peru and the Andean Area are taken to be an outgrowth of textile techniques. Textiles and fibre arts predate ceramics by several millennia In the Central Andean Area. The artist who created these textiles developed an art style which was to go largely unaltered until the arrival of the Spaniards. The foundations of the Andean art form date to the Pre-ceramic. The restrictive, rather Inflexible nature of the warp and the weft of the cloth (the geometric grid) was to influence the methods of represention that were to follow. Geometric designs were well suited to fit Into the rigid framework. A series of conventions were developed for the representation of symbols. With the development of ceramics, there was leeway for a new style to come Into being. However, this was not to be the case. The potter borrowed extensively from the weaving tradition and Its associated styles (only in Moche times did the potter make a break the highly geometric style developed centuries before, and even then this break with tradition was a short lived one). The pre-Columbian artist often portrayed birds, cats, fish and reptiles. Many of these designs were used frequently and repeatedly throughout the centuries, but none, I would maintain. was represented as frequently as the double-headed serpent, and with so few variants. Andean art Is a truly distinctive art form; very different from European art, and through Its geometricity It conveyed and still conveys a totally different approach to nature and the world surrounding Andean man.

Thesis (M.A.) -- University of Adelaide, 2003. / Bibliography: p. leaves 89-93.

Textiles may be used as a vehicle to penetrate and exemplify a society's customs and traditions. This dissertation concentrates on the Kuba cloths from Zaire and particularly focuses on the social and political implications associated with these textiles. Part One explores the economic aspects of the cloths and the values of work, wealth, status and titleholding among the Kuba. The Kuba's aesthetic preference for pattern and design will be contemplated in relation to the cloths and as an illustration of this culture's concern with decoration and display. Part Two of this study examines the occasions for which these cloths are adorned. It will be observed that these celebrations and rituals, in conjunction with their ceremonial modes of dress, not only underline the importance of the nation and its ideologies and customs (as examined in Part One) but serve to acknowledge ethnic identity, as well as maintain and perpetuate the social and political order of the Kuba. / Art History, Visual Arts and Musicology / M.A. (History of Art)

Thesis (MTech (Quality))Cape Peninsula University of Technology, Cape Town, 2008. / The South African Government provides support to the clothing and textile industry by making funding available through programs in the Department of Science and Technology, such as the Tshumisano Technology Stations Program. The Technology Stations Program in particular supports a Technology Station in Clothing and Textiles (TSCT) at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology (CPUT), serving the needs for technology support and skills upgrading of the industry in the Western Cape, and in some instances, nationally. The TSCT testing laboratory provides testing services to small medium and large companies in South Africa at a reduced cost. The laboratory emphasises that customers should have fabrics tested before production commences. In this regard, the company will know the quality of the fabric or garment being purchased or manufactured. The laboratory technicians and assistants undergo a 'Woolworths' certification process on their test methods on an annual basis. The Woolworths certification is customer based. The laboratory is faced on a daily bases with the problem that more and more of their customers request that the facility should seek higher 'accreditation', as opposed to the current 'certification' it currently holds. The TSCT testing laboratory in addition has a responsibility to satisfy all of its customer certification and accreditation needs. Against this background, the management of the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory is now seeking accreditation from the South African National Accreditation System (SANAS) to widen the spectrum of its testing abilities. The primary research objectives of this dissertation are: To determine what the requirements are for SANAS accreditation by the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory. To determine if the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory is subject to a forced intervention for SANAS accreditation. To determine the criteria required for the CPUT TSCT testing laboratory accreditation. To determine the benefits that could be gleaned from this accreditation. To determine the effectiveness of the laboratory system, with regard to the fact that in addition to testing, the laboratory is used for teaching and learning. Descriptive research will serve as the research type, as it will describe an existing phenomena taking place. The research will be theoretical in nature and conducted in terms of both positivistic and phenomenological paradigms. Case study research will serve as research method. Data collection for the proposed research will be conducted using questionnaires. The CPUT Clothing and Textile Technology Department will serve as sampling frame, while the sample of respondents will be drawn on the basis of probability sampling. The sample will include lecturing staff, students, industry testing customers, textile test laboratory technicians, administration and support staff, all of whom are directly involved with the operation or make use of the laboratory facilities.