Esta pesquisa de mestrado dispõe-se a estudar as relações existentes entre a percepção sensorial têxtil e o corpo vestido, sob a perspectiva de mulheres videntes e não videntes, buscando as semelhanças e diferenças entre essas formas de percepção para assim refletir sobre a ação dos sentidos na interação com o produto têxtil e, mais especificamente, a influência da visão na percepção tátil. Para isso, foram realizadas pesquisas teóricas e práticas que abordam a relação simbólica do tecido com a sociedade, tendo como base a observação de um grupo formado por 45 mulheres com cegueira total congênita, adquirida e também por mulheres dotadas do sentido da visão. Os diálogos estabelecidos na relação do universo feminino e do têxtil como matéria-prima base para a criação das roupas e como as diversas variações de tecidos e suas funções em contato com a pele estimulam diferentes sensações, buscando enfatizar a importância da percepção e sua influência nas preferências e escolhas de consumo de produtos de moda. Com o objetivo de analisar como é possível estabelecer diferentes formas de perceber o tecido e o corpo que o veste e a maneira como auxiliam na formação da identidade visual como elemento constitutivo de uma cultura contemporânea / This dissertation proposes to study the relations between the textile sensorial perception and the dressed body under the perspective of seeing and non-seeing women, researching the similarities and differences from these ways of perception and, specifically, the visions influence over the textile perception. For this, it was made several theoretical and practical researches that approaches the fabrics symbolic relation with the society, which was based on the observation of a group with 45 women with congenital total blindness, by women who have acquired it and also by seing women. The dialogues stated in the relation between the feminine universe and the textile as an element to the creation of clothes and how different tissues and its functions in contact with the skin stimulates different sensations, seeking to emphasize the importance of the perception and its influence on personal preferences and fashion produts consumptions choices. It was analyzed how it is possible to connect different ways of perceiving the fabric and the body that wears it so that assists on the formation of the visual identity as an element to institute a contemporary culture

Orientadores: Elias Basile Tambourgi, José Carlos Curvelo Santana / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Química / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-23T20:43:11Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Rosa_JorgeMarcos_D.pdf: 39736123 bytes, checksum: 4ec219a60a8a654fb8441a227f97b41f (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013 / Resumo: O objetivo deste trabalho foi estudar a viabilidade da reutilização contínua de efluente têxteis tratados por Processo Oxidativo Avançado em tingimentos de algodão 100% com corantes reativos, visando reutilização de, no mínimo, 90% do efluente tratado em novos processos de beneficiamentos. Projetou-se um reator do tipo batelada com capacidade para 1 litro, contendo duas lâmpadas Phillips TL-C de 6W cada, de radiação UV-C em 237 nm, juntamente com sistema de circulação e resfriamento. Inicialmente, estudou-se dois processos de fotocatálise, homogênea e heterogênea, para escolha do processo ideal. Em seguida, com auxílio de planejamento fatorial, determinou-se um método para detecção de peróxido de hidrogênio visando a neutralização deste para execução de tingimentos com o efluente tratado. Na etapa seguinte os ensaios foram efetuados em efluentes reais produzidos em escala piloto. Nestes experimentos, analisou-se o rendimento tintóreo e, na comparação de tingimentos efetuados com água normal de reabastecimento versus efluente tratado, testou-se também os índices de solidezes das cores à água e ao suor, juntamente com a resistência dos tecidos, antes e após os tingimentos. Os resultados obtidos em dez tingimentos efetuados consecutivamente demonstraram índices de remoção de cor acima de 90% em todos os casos, com desvios totais (DE) não superiores a 1,10 entre os tingimentos, gerando uma economia de 50% de recursos hídricos dos tingimentos efetuados com efluente tratado em relação aos tingimentos efetuados com água normal de reabastecimento / Abstract: The objective of this work was to study the viability of continuous reuse of textile effluent treated by Advanced Oxidative Process for dyeings of 100% cotton knit with reactive dyes in order to reuse at least 90 % of the treated effluent in new dyeing processes. A batch type reactor with a capacity of one liter containing two lamps Phillips TL - C 6W each, UV-C 237 nm , along with circulation and cooling system was developed . Initially, were studied two processes of photocatalysis, homogeneous and heterogeneous, in order to choose the ideal process. Then, with the aid of a factorial planning, it was established a method for detecting hydrogen peroxide in order to aim the neutralization of it, to perform the dyeings with the treated effluent. In the next stage, the tests were performed in real effluents produced on a pilot scale. In these experiments, were analyzed the dyeing performance between dyeings made with normal water replenishment versus treated effluent. Was also tested color fastness to water and perspiration, together with the resistance of the fabrics before and after dyeing. The results of ten consecutive dyeings carried out showed color removal rates above 90 % in all cases, with a total deviation (?E) less than 1.10 among the dyes, resulting in a savings of 50% of water in the dyeings made with treated effluent compared to dyes made with normal water replenishment / Doutorado / Sistemas de Processos Quimicos e Informatica / Doutor em Engenharia Química

The Sonochemistry Centre at Coventry University is one of a group of organisations working on a project to develop a new technology for producing antimicrobial textiles. This technology involves the use of an ultrasonic process (sonochemical) to generate and impregnate fabrics with antibacterial metal oxide nanoparticles. The expectation is that these textiles can be produced at an affordable price for routine use in hospitals as uniforms, curtains, hospital bed sheets and linen. The aim of this PhD project was to assess the antibacterial activity of fabrics impregnated with ZnO and CuO NPs against a variety of Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria. The testing was principally carried out according to the absorption method from ISO 20743:2007. Research was also extended to compare different methods of assessing antibacterial activity of textile fabrics. These included disc diffusion tests and shake flask tests in saline or nutrient broth. Overall the results from absorption tests demonstrated that both the ZnO and CuO impregnated fabrics showed very good levels of antibacterial activity (A>2) against the test bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, Acinetobacter baumannii, Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Pseudomonas aeruginosa). During the optimisation of lab scale process to the pilot scale, two different types of CuO fabrics were produced to test and compare the antibacterial activity. One type of fabrics were impregnated with pre-made CuO nanoparticles by a ‘throwing the stones’ technology termed TTS and the other with sonochemically formed nanoparticles (in-situ), same as the lab process. The results indicated that the fabrics impregnated with sonochemically formed NPs displayed better antibacterial activity than the pre-made NPs. Leaching of the antibacterial agents in to saline was investigated using a shake flask method. CuO and ZnO coated fabrics prepared at laboratory scale were tested against Staphylococcus aureus, Acinetobacter baumannii and Escherichia coli. It was found that leachates prepared by shaking the fabrics in saline for 3 hours showed no antibacterial activity for CuO fabrics. However, leachates from ZnO fabrics showed an excellent activity after 24 ± 3 hours against all three bacterial species. Flow cytometry (FC) was investigated as an alternative to standard agar plate count (PC) methods for the determination of viable cell numbers. There was a general agreement between the results from agar plate counts and flow cytometry except that post incubation counts were greater with FC. The higher numbers of viable cells detected with FC may have been due to the presence of viable but not culturable cells (VBNC). Viable cells were observed by fluorescence microscopy in post incubation samples in which no viable cells were detected on nutrient agar plates. Cytotoxicity studies were conducted on ZnO and CuO fabrics from the pilot scale (both in-situ and TTS) against human dermal fibroblast cells (HDF) and human hepatocellular carcinoma cells (HepG2) using a MTT assay to determine cell viability. The results showed that ZnO and CuO are not toxic to HDF cells. However, cytotoxicity was seen in HepG2 cells with cell viability decreasing by > 14% for all the fabrics after 24 hours.

The purpose of this investigation was to determine the properties that characterise cotton fibres in the various stages in the CPNF process as well as to determine which fibre characteristics a r e required to entangle the fibres to produce a successful CPNF . The criteria adopted in this work for a successful CPNF include: 1. the tensile strength of the fabrics 2. a well-defined pattern 3. absorbency and wicking The properties selected for investigation were 1. the cotton fibre surface (using SEM and DSC analyses) 2. the degree of degradation of the cotton fibre as a result of the CPNF process (using cellulose fluidity measurements) 3. the non-cellulosic content of the fibre (using IR, DSC, and Chemical analyses) 4. fibre friction 5. absorbency and wicking 6. tensile properties Analysis of the results indicates clearly what the fundamental properties of the cotton fibre must be for a successful cotton CPNF to be manufactured. The conclusions also indicate the necessary properties a man-made fibre must have to produce a successful CPNF.

This thesis focuses on the production and display of weavings made by a small number of Musqueam women, who in the 1980s began weaving in the tradition of their ancestors. It addresses the way in which these weavings, positioned throughout Vancouver and worn in public settings, build a visual presence to counter the exclusion of Coast Salish cultural representations from the public construction of history in Vancouver and the discourse of Northwest Coast art. The Vancouver International Airport and the Museum of Anthropology at the University o f British Columbia both share with Musqueam a history of place. A distinct relationship fostered between Museum staff and members of the Musqueam community has yielded several exhibits since the first, Hands of Our Ancestors: The Revival of Weaving at Musqueam, opened in 1986. The presence of Musqueam material at the Museum is part of an extensive history of interaction and negotiation between Canadian museums and the cultural communities whose histories, traditions and material culture are represented - a history which encompasses issues of representation, authorship and authority. The Vancouver International Airport is also situated on Musqueam traditional territory. Designed by representatives from the Musqueam Cultural Committee and the Airport project team, the international arrivals area features works of contemporary Musqueam artists which are intended to create a sense of place with an emphasis on the distinctiveness of its location. Travelers cross several thresholds in the terminal - the sequence o f these crossings carefully choreographed so that deplaning passengers pass from the non-space of international transience to a culturally specific space marked by Musqueam's cultural representations, and then past Customs into Canada. Certain incidents at these sites indicate that visibility and self-representation do not in themselves answer the problems of power and history. When the Museum of Anthropology hosted a meeting for leaders of the Asia Pacific Economic Community in 1997, a newly implemented protocol agreement between Musqueam and the Museum was broken; and in a number of instances, achievements at the Airport have also been impaired. Despite these limits, weavings are not examples of token native inclusion as some critics argue. Rather, they are cultural representations strategically deployed by the Musqueam community. Enlarged from traditional blankets to monumental hangings, these weavings participate with other more recognized monumental Northwest Coast forms. They are visual, public signifiers of Musqueam identity which, without violating boundaries between public and private knowledge, carry messages from the community to a broader audience - messages intended to mark Musqueam's precedence in Vancouver's past as well as to claim visibility in the present. / Arts, Faculty of / Art History, Visual Art and Theory, Department of / Graduate

The Himalayan orogen provides a natural laboratory to test models of orogenic development due to large-scale continental collision. The Greater Himalayan Series (GHS), a lithotectonic unit continuous along the entire length of the belt, comprises the metamorphic core of the Himalayan orogen and underlies the highest topography. GHS rocks are exposed as a moderately north-dipping slab bounded below by the Main Central Thrust (MCT) and above by the South Tibetan Detachment System (STDS) of normal faults. Coeval reverse- and normal-sense motion on the crustal-scale MCT and STDS ductile shear zones allows the GHS to be modeled as an extruded wedge or channel of mid-crustal material. Due to this unique tectonic setting, the deformation path of rocks within the bounding shear zones and throughout the core of the GHS profoundly influences the efficiency of extrusion and exhumation processes. Attempts to quantify GHS deformation and metamorphic evolution have provided significant insight into Himalayan orogenic development, but these structural and petrologic studies are often conducted in isolation. Penetrative deformation fabrics developed under mid-upper amphibolite facies conditions within the GHS argue that deformation and metamorphism were coupled, and this should be considered in studies aimed at quantifying GHS teconometamorphic evolution. This work focuses on two projects related to the coupled deformation, thermal and metamorphic evolution during extrusion and exhumation of the GHS, focused on the lower and upper margins of the slab. A detailed examination of the P--T history of a schist collected from within the MCT zone of the Sutlej River, NW India, provides insight into the path experienced by these rocks as they traveled through the crust in response to the extreme shortening related to India-Asia collision. Combined forward thermodynamic and diffusion modeling indicates compositional zoning preserved in garnet has remained unmodified since growth and can be related directly to the P--T--X evolution of rocks from this zone. Classic porphyroblast--matrix relationships coupled with the above models provide a structural framework within which to interpret the microstructures and provide additional constraints on the relative timing of metamorphic and deformation events. A combined microstructural and quartz petrofabric study of rocks from the highest structural levels of the GHS in the Zanskar region was completed. This work provides the first quantitative estimate of temperatures attending normal-sense shearing along the Zanskar Shear Zone, the westernmost strand of the STDS. Results indicate penetrative top-N (extensional) deformation occurred at elevated temperatures and resulted in the telescoping of isothermal surfaces present during shearing and extrusion of GHS rocks. Simple geometric models invoking heterogeneous simple shear parallel to the overlying detachment require dip-slip displacement magnitudes on the order of 15--40 km, identical to estimates derived from nearby barometric analyses. Finally, focus is given to the rotational behavior of rigid inclusions suspended in a flowing viscous matrix from a theoretical perspective. Predictions of clast rotational behavior have been used to construct several kinematic vorticity estimation techniques that have become widely adopted for quantitative studies of naturally deformed rocks. Despite the popularity of the techniques, however, basic questions regarding clast-based analyses remain open. Therefore a numerical model was constructed and a systematic investigation of 2- and 3D clasts suspended in steady and non-steady plane-strain flows was undertaken to determine likely sources of error and the intrinsic strengths and limitations of the techniques. / Ph. D.

No description available.

The synthesis and fire retardancy of several bromoesters of 2,4-pentadienoic acid were investigated. The synthesis of 2,4-pentadienoic acid was accomplished by liquid phase reaction of acrolein and malonic acid in the presence of pyridine. The conversion of the acid to bromoesters was performed by two different procedures. In the first procedure, the corresponding acid chloride was prepared from the acid via reaction with SOCl2 in the presence of powdered (3A°) molecular sieves. The molecular sieves serve as an internal trap for by-product HC1 and inhibit the competing polymerization reaction of the acid chloride. Reaction of the acid chloride with various alcohols provided the unsaturated esters. The final step in the first procedure is total bromination of the unsaturated esters. The second procedure involved bromination of 2,4-pentadienoic acid and followed by reaction of the bromo acid with SOCl₂ to produce the corresponding bromo acid chloride. Reaction of the brominated acid chloride with alcohol provided the corresponding brominated esters. A simple laboratory test was developed to measure and compare the flame retardancy of the bromoesters.

Yes / Nowadays Fiber Reinforced Polymers (FRPs) represent a well-established technique for rehabilitation of Reinforced Concrete (RC) and masonry structures. However, the severe degradation of mechanical properties of FRP under high temperature and fire as well as poor sustainability represents major weak points of organic-based systems. The use of eco-friendly inorganic geopolymeric matrices, alternative to the polymeric resins, would be highly desirable to overcome these issues. The present work aims to investigate the bond characteristic of a novel Steel Reinforced Geopolymeric Matrix (SRGM) strengthening system externally bonded to a concrete substrate having low mechanical properties. SRGM composite material consists of stainless steel cords embedded into a fireproof geopolymeric matrix. Single-lap shear tests by varying the bonded length were carried out. The main failure mode observed of SRGM-concrete joints was debonding at the fiber-matrix interface. Test results also suggest the effective bond length. On the basis of the experimental results, a cohesive bond-slip law was proposed. / Part of the analyses were developed within the activities of Rete dei Laboratori Universitari di Ingegneria Sismica (ReLUIS) for the research program funded by the Dipartimento di Protezione Civile (DPC), Progetto DPC/ReLUIS 2016–AQ DPC/ReLUIS 2014–2016.

The huge advancement in the textiles industry and the accurate control on the mechanization process coupled with cost-effective manufacturing offer an innovative environment for new electronic systems, namely electronic textiles. The abundance of fabrics in our regular life offers immense possibilities for electronic integration both in wearable and large-scale applications. Augmenting this technology with a set of precepts and a simulation environment creates a new software/hardware architecture with widely useful implementations in wearable and large-area computational systems. The software environment acts as a functional modeling and testing platform, providing estimates of design metrics such as power consumption. The construction of an electronic textile (e-textile) hardware prototype, a large-scale acoustic beamformer, provides a basis for the simulator and offers experience in building these systems. The contributions of this research focus on defining the electronic textile architecture, creating a simulation environment, defining a networking scheme, and implementing hardware prototypes. / Ph. D.