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Interior textiles have been a part of the everyday life of humans for hundreds of years, especially for women whom the creation of textiles has been a usual feature. Archeological findings from the 16th century B.C. show that tools for spinning and weaving for home usage were a part of every household. This was common until the 19th century, when the industrialization in Europe took off and the first textile industries began to establish. This was the beginning of big changes to the modern man’s lifestyle and the way we consume interior textiles. As mass produced products have taken over the market, a counter-reaction among consumers have emerged. The consumers feel a bigger need for unique products, products that feel meaningful for themselves or in any other way increases the perceived value. This has led to a growing trend for DIY-activities (Do-It-Yourself). While the sales of DIY-related products and interior design products increases, statistics shows a decrease in the sales of textile meter fabrics, which is a raw material aimed to be used for interior design and DIY-projects. It can be identified by the way that businesses are selling textile meter fabrics that the strategies haven’t changed very much in the recent decades. Therefore, it is questionable whether the meter fabric assortment is on its way to extinction or if the offer needs to change to better suit the customers’ requirements. This study has focused on what elements of the textile meter fabric offer could be changed in a store in Germany. An analysis of a selective sample of the German customer and how they use textile meter fabrics has been made, but also on how they perceive the offer in store and what they wish to be changed in the textile meter fabrics department. The interviews were conducted in an anonymous store in Frankfurt, Germany. The empirical findings have been put in relation with studies of DIY-motivations and shopping experience. An interview with a sales leader of one of the leading stores of home textiles in Germany, including meter fabrics, has been done in order to put the customers’ answers in relation to how the store work with increasing the DIY-motivations towards the customers. The study has resulted in insights about the stores lacking ability to provide the customers with enough motivation for DIY-projects in regards to textile meter fabrics. A disconnection between the vision of the store and the customers’ perception of the offer has been discovered, where the possibilities of improvement are vast. The study also shows that a majority of the interviewed German males show little or no interest in both DIY and textile meter fabrics.

English abstract This diploma thesis is concerned with the brief introduction to the structures and fabrics in granitoid plutons. In the next part of this work are sumarized results of structural analyses of Weinsberg-type granite intrusion (Prášily and Strážný pluton) located in the SW part of high-grade rocks of the Moldanubian Zone. This research proceeded based on a combination of field structural data and results of AMS (Anisotropy of magnetic susceptibility) method. The emplacement and crystallization of both studied magmatic bodies took place in cooperation with the final phases of S3-fabrics development. This "bavarian phase" has a character of heterogenous deformation with indications of the dextral subhorizontal shear (WNW-ESE strike). During this event, syntectonic emplacement and internal fabrics development of strážný pluton took place at ~322 Ma. The transpression was followed by the localized transtension tectonics in NE direction, probably in cooperation with exhumation of high-grade metamorphic rocks of Bavarian terrane. In this phase, at ~320 Ma, the granitoids of Prášily pluton were emplaced into the considerably exhumed crust of the Moldanubian region.

Fabrics and geodynamic evolution of Moldanubian orthogneisses English abstract The aim of this paper is a structural analysis of selected mostly Cambro-Ordovician orthogneisses cropping out in a part of high-grade rocks of western Moldanubian Zone. These rocks have been affected by HT-MP/LP metamorphism and the polyphase deformation during the Variscan orogeny. In the blaník orthogneisses, (Qtz + Kfs + Plg + Bt ± Ms ± Sill ± Ky) an early deformation banding dips steeply to SSE to ESE. These fabrics were overprinted by NW to N gently dipping foliation with well developed stretching lineations plunging to W. Rare kinematic indicators (e. g. fold and pressure shadows asymmetry) reveal a strong subvertical contraction and stretching in the ~N-S direction. Based on the microstructural analysis this contractional event was connected with the activity of "Grain Boundary Migration Recrystallization" (GBM). Ductile shear zones dipping to E, locally ESE or ENE were identified. Bechyně orthogneisses (Qtz + Kfs + Plg + Bt ± Ms) is a N-S elongated body with the presence of regional pervasive metamorphic foliation dipping homogenously under low angles from SSW to WNW . These foliations bear well developed mineral or stretching lineation of quartz, biotite and feldspar aggregates plunging to ~SW. In the blaník orthogneiss...

Ce travail de thèse est dédié au développement d’un modèle numérique prédictif du comportement de tissu sec soumis à l’impact à haute vitesse. La capacité d’un modèle numérique à prédire au plus juste des performances balistiques d’un tissu est étroitement liée à la bonne représentation des énergies en jeu et de la dynamique de rupture des plis. Parmi les différentes stratégies adoptées pour modéliser un tissu, les modèles mésoscopiques sont les plus populaires du fait de leur capacité à représenter fidèlement l’évolution de l’impact combinée à un coût de calcul raisonnable ; les torons sont alors traités comme des milieux continus.Pour représenter un ensemble de fibres disjointes comme un milieu continu, un modèle constitutif approprié est nécessaire. Celui généralement adopté est capable de bien représenter les propriétés longitudinales d’un toron mais limitatif pour représenter le comportement de sa section droite. Récemment, différents travaux ont démontré l’importance de la mécanique liée à la section droite d’un toron dans la rupture des tissus. Elle joue un rôle majeur pour aboutir à un modèle numérique prédictif. L’objet de cette thèse est de développer une nouvelle loi constitutive capable de surpasser les limites du modèle linéaire élastique classique tout en maintenant une bonne représentation des propriétés longitudinales du toron et un coût de calcul acceptable.La première étape a été de comprendre les phénomènes physiques et de quantifier en particulier les effets liés à la section droite du toron sur les propriétés balistiques d’un tissu. Pour répondre à cette question, deux modèles numériques à l’échelle microscopique d’un toron de Kevlar soumis à l’impact transverse ont été développés. Les résultats obtenus ont montré que la mécanique de la section droite a des répercussions sur l’initialisation de la rupture du fil mettant en jeu des énergies significatives pendant la première phase d’un impact. La nécessité de prendre en compte les aspects physiques liés à la section droite d’un toron a été finalement confirmée.A partir des résultats précédents, un nouveau modèle constitutif de toron adapté à des applications dynamiques a été développé. Une formulation hyperélastique, précédemment utilisée pour des analyses statiques a été étendue au cas de l’impact et une nouvelle approche multi-échelle a été proposée pour la détermination des paramètres matériaux. La validation de la nouvelle loi a été faite en comparant les résultats obtenus à l’échelle mésoscopique (toron) avec ceux obtenus par les analyses à la micro-échelle (fibre). L’approche proposée est capable de reproduire l’évolution de la section droite du fil pendant l’impact en gardant la bonne représentation de ses propriétés longitudinales.Par la suite, le modèle de toron proposé a été implémenté au niveau du tissu. Les résultats ont confirmé les observations faites à l’échelle du toron. Le modèle de tissu composé par des torons hyperélastiques est capable de représenter correctement la dynamique d’impact , l’évolution des énergies en jeu et la rupture du tissu. La stabilité numérique du modèle a également pu être appréciée.Finalement, le modèle mésoscopique de toron proposé permet une bonne représentation du comportement dynamique et appréhension de la rupture. Il devient ainsi un outil pratique et efficace pour la prédiction des performances balistiques de tissus. / The current thesis work focused on the development of a predictive numerical model of dry fabrics under high velocity impact.A mature bibliography exists on the subject. The impact phenomenon can be essentially resumed as an energy transfer between the colliding object and the fabric layers. The correct prediction of the fabric ballistic performance by a numerical model is related to the correct representation of the fabric energy evolution and its failure dynamic. Different numerical strategies have been proposed to model a fabric under ballistic impact. Mesoscopic numerical models resulted to be the most popular since they provide a realistic representation of the phenomenon for a reasonable computational cost. This is possible thanks to the main assumption of treating yarns as continuous media.In order to represent a discrete fiber bundle as a continuum an appropriate constitutive behavior have to be formulated. The universally adopted constitutive law accurately describes yarns longitudinal properties but it is limited in the representation of their transverse mechanical behavior. Recent studies have demonstrated how this last point is intrinsically related to fabrics failure and multilayer textiles response, then its correct representation becomes a critical point for an accurate model. The goal of the current work has been to provide a new constitutive model which overcome the limitation of the classic linear elastic approach while keeping unaltered its advantages, i.e. low computational costs and accurate description of yarn longitudinal behavior.The first step of this dissertation was to quantify the yarn cross section effects over textile ballistic properties and the phenomena related to this aspect. In order to provide an answer, two microscopic numerical studies of a single Kevlar yarn transversely impacted have been presented. Results showed how yarn transverse mechanical behavior has a role in failure initialization, while its energetic contribution to the global energy balance is not negligible during the first phases of an impact. The importance of a correct representation of the yarn transverse behavior for a predictive fabric numerical model was then confirmed.Starting from the previous microscopic observations, a consistent yarn continuum model for impact applications has been proposed. An hyperelastic formulation previously developed for static applications has been extended to impact analyses and a novel multiscale approach for the determination of all the material parameters has been introduced. The validation of the hyperelastic approach has been performed comparing the results with those obtained at the microscale. Compared to the classical approach, the introduced constitutive law is actually able to reproduce the evolution of the yarn cross section during the impact while keeping a correct representation of the yarn longitudinal properties. Moreover, the proposed formulation provides new physical measurement to exploit the physic behind the impact and new possibilities in terms of failure modelisation.In the final part of the dissertation, the proposed yarn continuum model is introduced at the fabric level. Results confirmed the observation performed at the yarn level. The proposed hyperelastic approach is able to correctly represent the impact dynamic and fabric energies trends. Moreover, it provides more stability and a better representation of the fabric failure compared to linear elastic approach. The proposed hyperelastic constitutive law and the linear elastic one can be adopted for different portion of the same yarn without occurring into model instabilities and providing accurate results.The yarn mesoscopic model developed in the current work offers new possibilities in terms of failure modelisation and post processing tools. These could be used to develop more accurate fabric model and exploit the phenomena behind fabrics and yarns failure mechanic.

Por décadas a radiação infravermelha tem sido usada de forma estética e terapêutica, e é caracterizada por ter a propriedade de penetrar na pele. O surgimento de novas tecnologias permitiu a criação de têxteis funcionais, entre eles os tecidos contendo biocerâmica, que absorvem o calor do corpo, ativando a biocerâmica presente e emitindo raios infravermelhos longos, que penetram na pele ativando a microcirculação sanguínea. Porém, tecidos desse tipo só tiveram eficiência comprovada por testes clínicos, que são métodos caros e demorados, ou por analogia baseada no tipo de construção. O objetivo deste estudo foi elaborar um método prático para medir a emissividade de tecidos contendo biocerâmica, utilizando um espectrofotômetro de raios infravermelhos, comparar a emissividade desses tecidos, além de realizar uma análise de fluorescência de raios X a fim de descobrir os elementos químicos presentes nos tecidos, para confirmar quaisquer diferenças de emissividade entre os mesmos. Concluiu-se que é possível medir a emissividade de tecidos contendo biocerâmica através do aquecimento das amostras, simulando a ação do tecido junto ao corpo, e posteriormente realizando ensaios em um espectrofotômetro de infravermelhos por transformada de Fourier, onde picos de emissão foram encontrados em cada tecido analisado, o que possibilitou o cálculo da emissividade (expressa em contagens de área) através do ajuste de uma curva gaussiana em cada pico de emissão. Através da fluorescência de raios X foram encontrados diferentes elementos químicos na composição das amostras, podem ser a causa da diferença de emissividade entre os tecidos / The infrared radiation has been used on aesthetic and therapeutic way for decades, and is characterized for being able to penetrate deeply underneath the skin. New technologies appeared, enabling the development of functional textiles, among them textiles containing bioceramics that absorb the body heat, activating the bioceramic on it and emitting far infrared rays, which penetrate into the skin, activating the blood microcirculation. However, the efficiency of this sort of fabrics was proven only by clinical tests, which are very expensive and time consuming, and by construction analogy. The main objective of this study was to develop a practical method for measuring fabrics containing bioceramics emissivity, using an infrared spectrophotometer, comparing the fabrics emissivity, besides doing an X ray fluorescence analysis in order to discover the chemical elements that composes the fabrics, to confirm any emissivity differences between them. It was concluded that it is possible to measure the emissivity of fabrics containing bioceramics by heating the samples, simulating the action of the fabric on the body, and subsequently performing tests on a Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometer, where emission peaks were found on the fabrics, that enabled the emissivity calculation (expressed in area counts) by adjusting a Gaussian curve at each emission peak. By the X ray fluorescence different chemical elements were found on the fabrics composition, which can be the reason for the emissivity difference between them

This project developed, analyzed, and quantified the thermal environment for four fire scenarios created in a modified standard room. Eight propane burners were placed in four different configurations while temperature and flux measurements were collected. Fire environments were intended to simulate flashover, indirect flame exposure, and wildland fires. The results will be used for the selection of a fire environment for a full-scale garment flammability test for the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility.

" The Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility (NCTRF) has been conducting fabric research for many decades. This project is a joint effort in establishing new test methods for evaluating the thermal protection garments provide. As a result of this project a new full scale test facility was constructed and is now operational. In this facility, a new traversing manikin test has been developed and will hopefully become a recognized test standard in the future. The traversing manikin test is designed to work with current test methods but also to provide a more detailed evaluation of a garment. Incorporated into the facility is the ability to reconfigure the fire source to recreate design fires that resemble those likely to occur onboard naval ships. While the data gather thus far is limited, it is believed with future testing a large set of data will be available to allow a cross comparison of this test with established test methods. "

Includes photographs of project. / Digitized by Kansas Correctional Industries

Jag har i mitt projekt jobbat med mönsterformgivning och produktion av vävda möbeltyger, digitaltryckta tapeter- och textilier för en fiktiv hemmiljö. Mina designbeslut grundar sig på en fiktiv karaktär, Mr Chester Jester, hans estetiska preferenser och behov i samrådan med mina egna. Arbetets resultat är en gestaltning av världen han lever i, komprimerad till ett hemma hos reportage på gränsen mellan verklighet och illusion. Jag har jobbat med dubbelhet och speglingar - av mönster, av rummet, av tekniker och mig själv. Jag har undersökt illusionens verklighet och verklighetens illusion.My bachelor project is a work of pattern design and production of woven upholstery fabrics, digital prints on textile materials and wallpaper, made for a fictional home environment. The desicions for the designs are based on a fictional character, named Mr Chester Jester. His preferences and needs combined with my omn are the result of this project. The outcome of the work is a formation of his world, made into a study of his home on the edge of reality and illusions. It is a work of duplicities -of pattern, room, technique and of an alternate side of myself.I have investigated the illusion of reality, and the reality of illusions. / Program: Textildesignutbildningen