Thesis (MVerbruikerswet)--University of Stellenbosch, 2005. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The aim of the study was to investigate the compatibility of cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester warpknit terry towelling fabrics with industrial laundering procedures. The literature review focused, on the one hand, on the manufacture, finishing and structure of warp-knit terry towelling fabrics as well as on the physical structure, chemical nature and characteristics of the textile fibres used in the manufacturing of the towelling. On the other hand, a full exposition of the industrial laundering processes is provided, with specific reference to aspects that can have an effect on the towelling fabrics during the wash and tumble-drying cycles. Chapters Three and Four are reports on two research projects that can each be read independently. The aim of the first project was to determine the effect of industrial laundering procedures on the durability of cotton warp-knit terry towelling fabrics with a synthetic base structure. The tensile strength of cotton warp-knit terry towelling samples with a synthetic base structure was determined in the warp and weft directions and after 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 wash cycles as well as wash and tumble-drying cycles. The tensile strengths in the warp direction of the washed terry towelling samples decreased significantly (p < 0.001) after 50 wash cycles. In contrast to this, the tensile strength in the weft direction increased, although not significantly (p > 0.05). As far as the comparison of the effect of industrial wash and wash and tumble-drying cycles is concerned, the tensile strengths in the warp direction of the towelling samples that were washed and washed/tumble-dried, were significantly lower (p < 0.001) after 20 and after 50 laundering cycles. As far as the tensile strengths in the weft direction were concerned, a similar pattern as with the wash and wash/tumble-drying processes, occurred. The tensile strengths initially increased and then gradually decreased. Furthermore, the tumble-drying process had greater damaging effects after 40 laundering cycles (p = 0.043) and especially after 50 laundering cycles (p < 0.0001). The aim of the second research project was to compare the durability of cotton warp-knit terry towelling fabrics with a nylon base structure with cotton warp-knit terry towelling fabrics with a polyester base structure after they had been subjected to industrial laundering processes. It was first established whether cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester warp-knit terry towelling fabrics are comparable. Secondly, the durability of cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester terry towelling fabrics was compared by determining the tensile strengths of the samples in the warp direction after they have been subjected to 50 industrial wash as well as wash and tumble-drying cycles. The two groups of untreated samples were regarded as similar on the basis of the percentage of fibre composition, knit fabric structure, knit density, mass and tensile strength. After 50 industrial wash cycles the tensile strengths of the cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester warp-knit terry towelling samples decreased significantly (p < 0.05). But there was no significant difference (p > 0.05) between the tensile strengths of the cotton/nylon and the cotton/polyester terry towelling samples after 50 washing cycles. There was a highly significant difference (p < 0.001) between the tensile strengths of the cotton/nylon and the cotton/polyester terry towelling samples after 50 wash and tumble-drying cycles. The tensile strength of the cotton/polyester terry towelling samples remained practically unchanged after the 50 wash/tumble-drying cycles, with the tensile strength of the cotton/nylon terry towelling samples decreased significantly (p < 0.001). / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Die doel van die studie was om ondersoek in te stel na die versoenbaarheid van katoen/nylon- en katoen/poliëster- skeringgebreide terriestofhanddoeke met industriële versorgingsprosedures. In die literatuuroorsig is daar enersyds gefokus op die vervaardiging, afwerking en struktuur van skeringgebreide terriehanddoekstowwe asook op die fisiese struktuur, chemiese aard en eienskappe van die tekstielvesels waarvan die handdoeke vervaardig is. Andersyds is ’n volledige uiteensetting van industriële versorgingsprosedures gegee, met spesifieke verwysing na aspekte wat tydens die was- en tuimeldrogingsiklusse ’n uitwerking op die handdoekstowwe kan hê. Hoofstukke drie en vier is opgeskryf as twee navorsingsprojekte wat elk ‘n geheel vorm. Die doel van die eerste projek was om die effek van industriële versorgingsprosedures op die duursaamheid van katoen skeringgebreide terriestofhanddoeke met ‘n sintetiese basisstruktuur te bepaal. Die breeksterkte van katoen skeringgebreide terriestofmonsters met ’n sintetiese basisstruktuur is in die skering- en inslagrigtings tydens en na afloop van 10, 20, 30, 40, en 50 was- asook was- en tuimeldrogingsiklusse bepaal. Die breeksterktes in die skeringrigting van die gewaste terriestofmonsters het betekenisvol afgeneem (p < 0.001) na 50 wassiklusse. In teenstelling hiermee het die breeksterktes in die inslagrigting toegeneem, hoewel nie betekenisvol nie (p > 0.05). Wat die vergelyking van die effek van industriële was- en was en tuimeldrogingsiklusse betref, is die breeksterktes in die skeringrigting van die handdoekmonsters wat gewas en gewas/getuimeldroog is, beduidend laer (p < 0.001) na 20 en na 50 versorgingsiklusse. Wat die breeksterktes in die inslagrigting betref het ‘n soortgelyke patroon by die was- en was/tuimeldrogingprosesse voorgekom. Die breeksterktes neem aanvanklik toe en daarna geleidelik af. Verder het die tuimeldrogingsproses na 40 versorgingsiklusse (p = 0.043) en veral na 50 versorgingsiklusse (p < 0.0001) ’n groter skadelike effek getoon. Die doel van die tweede navorsingsprojek was om die duursaamheid van katoen skeringgebreide terriestowwe met ’n nylon basisstruktuur te vergelyk met katoen skeringgebreide terriestowwe met ’n poliëster basisstruktuur nadat dit aan industriële versorgingsprosedures blootgestel is. Daar is eerstens vasgestel of katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster terriehanddoekstowwe vergelykbaar is. Tweedens is die duursaamheid van katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster terriestowwe vergelyk deur die breeksterktes van die monsters in die skeringrigting te bepaal nadat dit aan 50 industriële wasasook was- en tuimeldrogingsiklusse blootgestel is. Die twee groepe onbehandelde monsters is as soortgelyk beskou op grond van die persentasie veselsamestelling, breistofstruktuur, breidigtheid, massa en breeksterkte. Na 50 industriële wassiklusse het die breeksterktes van die katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster skeringgebreide terriestofmonsters betekenisvol (p < 0.05) afgeneem. Daar was egter nie ’n betekenisvolle verskil (p > 0.05) tussen die breeksterktes van die katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster terriestofmonsters na 50 wassiklusse nie. Daar was ’n hoogs betekenisvolle verskil (p < 0.001) tussen die breeksterktes van die katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster terriestofmonsters na die 50 was/tuimeldrogingsiklusse. Die breeksterkte van die katoen/poliëster terriestofmonsters het na die 50 was/tuimeldrogingsiklusse feitlik onveranderd gebly terwyl die breeksterkte van die katoen/nylon terriestofmonsters hoogs betekenisvol (p < 0.001) afgeneem het.

Thesis (MSc )--University of Stellenbosch, 2001. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Washing and cleansing in an aqueous washing solution is a complex process involving the interaction of numerous physical and chemical processes. Investigations indicate that various factors present during repeated laundering might have an adverse effect on textile fabrics. Little is known, however, about the effect of the different mechanical wash actions on the deterioration of textiles. The automatic washing machines commonly used in South African households are often broadly classified as top loaders and front loaders. On closer inspection, however, it becomes clear that marked differences exist between the horizontal drum machines (H), vertical drum agitator type (V(A)) and vertical drum impeller type machines (V(/)). The effect of laundering on the wear life of textile fabrics has been extensively investigated, but a serious need for research on the effect of the different mechanical washing actions of the different washing machines on textile fabrics exists on both national and international level. A number of factors have an effect on textile deterioration during washing, e.g. number of washes, temperature of wash liquid, detergent type as well as fabric finishes and water quality. Fabric properties like changes in tensile strength, print deterioration and fraying, as well as electron microscope photographs, were used as indicators of mechanical deterioration to textiles. The broad aim of this exploratory study was firstly, to compare the effect of repeated washing in different domestic automatic washing machines (commonly used in South Africa) on the possible mechanical damage to textile fabrics and, secondly, to compare the soil removal efficiency of the mechanical wash actions of the different machines. An experimental study was therefore decided on. The washing of the test fabrics, as well as the testing, was carried out under controlled conditions in a laboratory. Apart from the different mechanical wash actions of the individual machines, the effect of the variables wash temperature, level of detergent and number of washes, was also investigated. This was done by measuring tensile strength, print deterioration and fraying propensity on samples laundered repeatedly at 40°C or 60°C, with and without detergent in the washing liquid, and comparing the colour change measured on laboratory-soiled test fabrics after washing. Analysis of the mechanical wash actions of the seven washing machines compared in this study indicated conspicuous differences among machines. It can be concluded that the mechanical wash action in the category V(A) machines is the most severe, and causes the highest reduction in tensile strength, the greatest print deterioration and the highest degree of fraying. These machines did not, however, exhibit greater soil removal efficiency than the other two categories of washing machines. The machines from category H did not exhibit a significantly different soil removal efficiency than those from category V(A), but their mechanical wash action proved to be less severe. Category V(/) machines seem to have the most delicate wash action and will probably cause the slightest fabric deterioration over the long term, but unfortunately produces poor soil removal efficiency results. This study also confirmed that washing fabrics in water alone causes more deterioration of tensile strength in fabrics than washing with detergent in the wash solution. Due to the limited scope and exploratory nature of this research/study, certain aspects of automatic washing machine processes could not be tested empirically. Recommendations for future research and implications for consumers were formulated. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Was en skoonmaak in 'n waterige oplossing is 'n komplekse proses wat 'n interaksie tussen verskeie fisiese en chemiese prosesse behels. Ondersoeke dui aan dat verskeie van die faktore teenwoordig tydens herhaalde wasprosesse 'n nadelige effek op tekstielstowwe mag he. Baie min is egter bekend oor die effek van die verskillende meganiese wasaksies op die degenerasie van tekstiele. Die outomatiese wasmasjiene wat algemeen in Suid-Afrikaanse huishoudings gebruik word, word dikwels breedweg geklassifiseer as bolaaiers en voorlaaiers. By nadere ondersoek word dit egter duidelik dat daar opvallende verskille bestaan tussen die horisontale drom masjiene (H), die vertikale drom roerder tipe ((V)A)) en die vertikale drom stuwer tipe (V(/)) masjiene. Die effek van was op die draleeftyd van tekstielstowwe is uitvoerig ondersoek, maar daar bestaan op beide nasionale en internasionale vlak In ernstige behoefte aan navorsing oor die effek van die verskillende meganiese wasaksies van die verskillende wasmasjiene op tekstielstowwe. Faktore 5005 die aantal wasse, temperatuur van die wasoplossing, detergent tipe, water kwaliteit en tekstielstoftipe en -afwerking(s) het In effek of tekstieldegenerasie gedurende was. Tekstielstofeienskappe 5005 veranderinge in die breeksterkte van die tekstielstof of die tekstielstofmassa per eenheidsarea, agteruitgang van bedrukking, rafeling, sowel as elektronmikroskoop foto's word as aanduiding van meganiese degenerasie t.o.v. tekstiele beskou. Die oorkoepelende doe I van hierdie eksploratiewe studie was eerstens, om die effek te vergelyk van herhaalde was in verskillende outomatiese wasmasjiene (algemeen in gebruik in Suid-Afrika) op die moontlike meganiese beskadiging aan tekstielstowwe, en tweedens, om die doeltreffendheid van vuilverwydering op die wasaksies van die verskillende masjiene te vergelyk. Daar is gevolglik op In eksperimentele studie besluit. Die was van die tekstielstowwe, sowel as die laboratoriumtoetse, is onder gekontroleerde atmosferiese toestande in In laboratorium uitgevoer. Afgesien van die verskillende meganiese wasaksies van die individuele masjiene, is die effek van die veranderlikes westemperetuur, detergentv!ak en aanta! wasse ook ondersoek. Dit is gedoen deur die bepaling van breeksterkte en die meting van die mate van agteruitgang van bedrukking en mate van geneigdheid tot rafeling van kledingstowwe na herhaalde was by 40°C en 60°C, met en sonder detergent in die wasvloeistof. Die kleurverandering na was is ook gemeet op laboratorium gevlekte monsters. Die analise van die meganiese wasaksie van die sewe wasmasjiene wat in hierdie studie vergelyk is, het opvallende verskille tussen masjiene uitgewys. Daar kan tot die gevolgtrekking gekom word dat die meganiese wasaksie in kategorie V(A) masjiene die ergste is, wat gevolglik die grootste verlaging in breeksterkte en die meeste afieruitgang van bedrukking en rafeling veroorsaak het. Hierdie masjiene het egter nie meer doeltreffende vuilverwydering tot gevolg gehad in vergelyking met die ander kategoriee van wasmasjiene nie. Die masjiene in kategorie H het nie 'n betekenisvolle verskil in doeltreffenheid van vuilverwydering van die van kategorie V(A) getoon nie, maar die meganiese wasaksie was minder straf. Kategorie V(/) masjiene het blykbaar die mees delikate wasaksie en sal moontlik die minste tekstielstof degenerasie oor die langtermyn toon, maar ongelukkig is die resultate t.o. v. die doeltreffendheid van vuilverwydering swak. Die studie bevestig dat die was van tekstielstowwe in water aileen 'n groter verlaging in breeksterkte van tekstielstowwe veroorsaak as wat die geval is wanneer met 'n detergent in die wasvloeistof gewas word. Weens die beperkte omvang en eksploratiewe aard van die studie kon sekere aspekte van die outomatiese wasprosesse nie empiries getoets word nie. Aanbevelings vir toekomstige navorsing en implikasies vir verbruikers is geformuleer.

Cette thèse s’inscrit dans le cadre du projet européen 3D-LightTrans ayant pour objectifs la fabrication à grande à échelle et à bas coût de pièces composites. Pour parvenir à ces objectifs, des semi-produits sous forme de tissus 3D de mèches comélées ont été réalisés. Le but de ces travaux est de caractériser le comportement mécanique de ces tissus en vue d’analyser leur formabilité et d’être en mesure de prédire leur comportement pendant les processus de mise en forme utilisés lors de la fabrication des pièces composites. Le premier objectif de ces travaux était de caractériser expérimentalement le comportement mécanique des tissus 3D. Après avoir effectué un état de l’art ayant permis de définir les types et paramètres d’essais à utiliser pour la caractérisation du comportement des tissus, l’analyse des résultats de ces différents essais a permis de mettre en évidence les spécificités du comportement des tissus 3D. Le deuxième objectif des travaux était de modéliser le comportement des tissus par une approche numérique. Le choix s’étant porté sur une approche à l’échelle mésoscopique, le comportement mécanique des mèches comélées a été caractérisé expérimentalement. Les limitations du logiciel GeoFab quant à son utilisation pour la génération de modèles CAO de mailles élémentaires de tissus 3D ont été identifiées. Des améliorations permettant de répondre à ces limitations ont été proposées et leur faisabilité démontrée. Un modèle CAO d’une sous partie de la maille élémentaire d’un des tissus a alors été généré. Après avoir modélisé le comportement des mèches comélées en se basant sur les résultats de leur caractérisation expérimentale, des premières simulations éléments finis ayant permis d’obtenir des résultats encourageants ont été réalisés. / This thesis is part of the European project 3D-LightTrans whose objectives are the large scale and low-cost manufacturing of composite parts. To achieve these goals, semi-finished products in the form of 3D fabrics of commingled yarns were produced. The purpose of this work is to characterize the mechanical behavior of these fabrics in order to investigate their formability and be able to predict their behavior during the forming processes used for the manufacturing of composite parts. The first objective of the work was to characterize experimentally the 3D fabrics mechanical behavior. A state of the art was realized in order to define the types and test parameters to use. The analysis of these test results allowed to highlight the specific 3D fabrics mechanical behaviour. The second objective of the work was to model the fabrics behavior using a numerical method. A mesoscopic scale approach having been selected, experimental characterization of the commingled yarns mechanical behavior was necessary. Then, GeoFab software limitations on its use for the generation of CAD models of 3D fabrics unit cells were identified. Improvements to address these limitations have been proposed and their feasibility was demonstrated. A CAD model of a sub part of one of the fabrics unit cell was then generated. After having modeled the commingled yarns behaviour using experimental results, finite element simulations were performed on fabric CAD model and first encouraging results were obtained.

As constantes e crescentes transformações ocorridas nos diversos segmentos da economia mundial levam à busca incessante de conhecimento, bem como à busca do aprimoramento em atividades relacionadas com as diversas funções do mercado de trabalho, sempre com o objetivo de se alcançar lucros, desempenho adequado e promovendo o uso racional de materiais e insumos, e consequentemente garantindo o desenvolvimento sustentável. Com o grande crescimento no setor de construção civil, surge uma oportunidade de introdução e comercialização de novos produtos como placas cimentícias, com âmbito de decoração e estética no seguimento de revestimento para pisos e fachadas. Neste trabalho será abordada uma falha quanto ao aspecto funcional do produto, que é o descolamento/destacamento das placas cimentícias assentadas e fissuras nas placas cimentícias aderidas. Várias podem ser as fontes dessa manifestação patológica, entre elas: materiais e métodos de assentamento inadequados (local, juntas, argamassa, entre outros), inadequações das características funcionais (dilatação térmica, EPU, entre outros). Foram adicionadas fibras de vidro, fibras de polipropileno, telas de fibra de vidro e telas metálicas, com finalidade de melhorar as propriedades funcionais das placas. Como resultado final, tanto as telas metálicas como as telas de fibra de vidro finas apresentaram melhor desempenho quanto à resistência mecânica, dilatação térmica e expansão térmica, evitando as patologias apresentadas e ao mesmo tempo melhorando o desempenho das placas cimentícias. / The constant and growing changes occurring in the various segments of the world economy lead to the ceaseless pursuit of knowledge and the quest for improvement in activities related to the various functions of the job market. Always with the objective of achieving profits, adequate performance and promoting the rational use of materials and supplies, and therefore ensuring sustainable development. With the growth in the construction sector, an opportunity arises as the introduction of new products and marketing of cement slabs, for decoration and aesthetics for floors and facades coating. This work will be discussed a failure to functional aspect of the product, which is the detachment / secondment of cement slabs settled and cracks in cement slabs attached. Several can be the sources of this pathology manifastation, including: inadequate materials and methods of settlement (Local, joints, mortar, etc.), inadequacies of the functional characteristics (thermal expansion, UPC, etc.). Glass fibers, polypropylene fibers, glass screens and wires were added, with the purpose of improving the properties functional of the plates. As a final result both mesh screens as thin fiberglass presented better performance as the mechanical strength, thermal expansion and expansion, preventing pathologies and at the same time improving the performance of cement boards.

As constantes e crescentes transformações ocorridas nos diversos segmentos da economia mundial levam à busca incessante de conhecimento, bem como à busca do aprimoramento em atividades relacionadas com as diversas funções do mercado de trabalho, sempre com o objetivo de se alcançar lucros, desempenho adequado e promovendo o uso racional de materiais e insumos, e consequentemente garantindo o desenvolvimento sustentável. Com o grande crescimento no setor de construção civil, surge uma oportunidade de introdução e comercialização de novos produtos como placas cimentícias, com âmbito de decoração e estética no seguimento de revestimento para pisos e fachadas. Neste trabalho será abordada uma falha quanto ao aspecto funcional do produto, que é o descolamento/destacamento das placas cimentícias assentadas e fissuras nas placas cimentícias aderidas. Várias podem ser as fontes dessa manifestação patológica, entre elas: materiais e métodos de assentamento inadequados (local, juntas, argamassa, entre outros), inadequações das características funcionais (dilatação térmica, EPU, entre outros). Foram adicionadas fibras de vidro, fibras de polipropileno, telas de fibra de vidro e telas metálicas, com finalidade de melhorar as propriedades funcionais das placas. Como resultado final, tanto as telas metálicas como as telas de fibra de vidro finas apresentaram melhor desempenho quanto à resistência mecânica, dilatação térmica e expansão térmica, evitando as patologias apresentadas e ao mesmo tempo melhorando o desempenho das placas cimentícias. / The constant and growing changes occurring in the various segments of the world economy lead to the ceaseless pursuit of knowledge and the quest for improvement in activities related to the various functions of the job market. Always with the objective of achieving profits, adequate performance and promoting the rational use of materials and supplies, and therefore ensuring sustainable development. With the growth in the construction sector, an opportunity arises as the introduction of new products and marketing of cement slabs, for decoration and aesthetics for floors and facades coating. This work will be discussed a failure to functional aspect of the product, which is the detachment / secondment of cement slabs settled and cracks in cement slabs attached. Several can be the sources of this pathology manifastation, including: inadequate materials and methods of settlement (Local, joints, mortar, etc.), inadequacies of the functional characteristics (thermal expansion, UPC, etc.). Glass fibers, polypropylene fibers, glass screens and wires were added, with the purpose of improving the properties functional of the plates. As a final result both mesh screens as thin fiberglass presented better performance as the mechanical strength, thermal expansion and expansion, preventing pathologies and at the same time improving the performance of cement boards.

As constantes e crescentes transformações ocorridas nos diversos segmentos da economia mundial levam à busca incessante de conhecimento, bem como à busca do aprimoramento em atividades relacionadas com as diversas funções do mercado de trabalho, sempre com o objetivo de se alcançar lucros, desempenho adequado e promovendo o uso racional de materiais e insumos, e consequentemente garantindo o desenvolvimento sustentável. Com o grande crescimento no setor de construção civil, surge uma oportunidade de introdução e comercialização de novos produtos como placas cimentícias, com âmbito de decoração e estética no seguimento de revestimento para pisos e fachadas. Neste trabalho será abordada uma falha quanto ao aspecto funcional do produto, que é o descolamento/destacamento das placas cimentícias assentadas e fissuras nas placas cimentícias aderidas. Várias podem ser as fontes dessa manifestação patológica, entre elas: materiais e métodos de assentamento inadequados (local, juntas, argamassa, entre outros), inadequações das características funcionais (dilatação térmica, EPU, entre outros). Foram adicionadas fibras de vidro, fibras de polipropileno, telas de fibra de vidro e telas metálicas, com finalidade de melhorar as propriedades funcionais das placas. Como resultado final, tanto as telas metálicas como as telas de fibra de vidro finas apresentaram melhor desempenho quanto à resistência mecânica, dilatação térmica e expansão térmica, evitando as patologias apresentadas e ao mesmo tempo melhorando o desempenho das placas cimentícias. / The constant and growing changes occurring in the various segments of the world economy lead to the ceaseless pursuit of knowledge and the quest for improvement in activities related to the various functions of the job market. Always with the objective of achieving profits, adequate performance and promoting the rational use of materials and supplies, and therefore ensuring sustainable development. With the growth in the construction sector, an opportunity arises as the introduction of new products and marketing of cement slabs, for decoration and aesthetics for floors and facades coating. This work will be discussed a failure to functional aspect of the product, which is the detachment / secondment of cement slabs settled and cracks in cement slabs attached. Several can be the sources of this pathology manifastation, including: inadequate materials and methods of settlement (Local, joints, mortar, etc.), inadequacies of the functional characteristics (thermal expansion, UPC, etc.). Glass fibers, polypropylene fibers, glass screens and wires were added, with the purpose of improving the properties functional of the plates. As a final result both mesh screens as thin fiberglass presented better performance as the mechanical strength, thermal expansion and expansion, preventing pathologies and at the same time improving the performance of cement boards.

Por décadas a radiação infravermelha tem sido usada de forma estética e terapêutica, e é caracterizada por ter a propriedade de penetrar na pele. O surgimento de novas tecnologias permitiu a criação de têxteis funcionais, entre eles os tecidos contendo biocerâmica, que absorvem o calor do corpo, ativando a biocerâmica presente e emitindo raios infravermelhos longos, que penetram na pele ativando a microcirculação sanguínea. Porém, tecidos desse tipo só tiveram eficiência comprovada por testes clínicos, que são métodos caros e demorados, ou por analogia baseada no tipo de construção. O objetivo deste estudo foi elaborar um método prático para medir a emissividade de tecidos contendo biocerâmica, utilizando um espectrofotômetro de raios infravermelhos, comparar a emissividade desses tecidos, além de realizar uma análise de fluorescência de raios X a fim de descobrir os elementos químicos presentes nos tecidos, para confirmar quaisquer diferenças de emissividade entre os mesmos. Concluiu-se que é possível medir a emissividade de tecidos contendo biocerâmica através do aquecimento das amostras, simulando a ação do tecido junto ao corpo, e posteriormente realizando ensaios em um espectrofotômetro de infravermelhos por transformada de Fourier, onde picos de emissão foram encontrados em cada tecido analisado, o que possibilitou o cálculo da emissividade (expressa em contagens de área) através do ajuste de uma curva gaussiana em cada pico de emissão. Através da fluorescência de raios X foram encontrados diferentes elementos químicos na composição das amostras, podem ser a causa da diferença de emissividade entre os tecidos / The infrared radiation has been used on aesthetic and therapeutic way for decades, and is characterized for being able to penetrate deeply underneath the skin. New technologies appeared, enabling the development of functional textiles, among them textiles containing bioceramics that absorb the body heat, activating the bioceramic on it and emitting far infrared rays, which penetrate into the skin, activating the blood microcirculation. However, the efficiency of this sort of fabrics was proven only by clinical tests, which are very expensive and time consuming, and by construction analogy. The main objective of this study was to develop a practical method for measuring fabrics containing bioceramics emissivity, using an infrared spectrophotometer, comparing the fabrics emissivity, besides doing an X ray fluorescence analysis in order to discover the chemical elements that composes the fabrics, to confirm any emissivity differences between them. It was concluded that it is possible to measure the emissivity of fabrics containing bioceramics by heating the samples, simulating the action of the fabric on the body, and subsequently performing tests on a Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometer, where emission peaks were found on the fabrics, that enabled the emissivity calculation (expressed in area counts) by adjusting a Gaussian curve at each emission peak. By the X ray fluorescence different chemical elements were found on the fabrics composition, which can be the reason for the emissivity difference between them

Orientador: Edison Bittencourt / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Química / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-23T04:07:07Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Borelli_Camilla_D.pdf: 3705740 bytes, checksum: 0fb8d239f30de40d55f37f75f57bf221 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013 / Resumo: O crescente interesse pelo conforto no vestuário, utilizado em atividades profissionais, práticas esportivas e até mesmo roupas casuais, impulsionou uma demanda pelo conhecimento das propriedades e funcionalidades que se almeja em relação à interação com o usuário. O transporte de umidade é um dos principais parâmetros relacionados ao conforto têxtil. A capacidade de um tecido transportar a transpiração da pele ao ambiente influencia diretamente na percepção de conforto. A medida de transporte de umidade configura-se como uma ferramenta valiosa na avaliação do desempenho e desenvolvimento de novos produtos têxteis, principalmente pela escassez de estudos envolvendo os tecidos planos produzidos com fios de poliéster. Com o objetivo de avaliar o conforto de artigos têxteis, através do transporte de umidade multidimensional, transporte de umidade por capilaridade, permeabilidade ao vapor e permeabilidade ao ar, foram comparados tecidos planos de poliéster produzidos com diferentes ligamentos e diferentes títulos de filamentos. Os resultados mostraram que a presença de filamentos mais finos (microfibras), aliada ao ligamento tela, favorece o transporte da umidade por capilaridade e a permeabilidade ao ar, enquanto que os parâmetros de transporte da umidade multidimensional e permeabilidade ao vapor não sofreram influência dos títulos dos filamentos e dos diferentes ligamentos, sendo unicamente influenciados pelas propriedades da matéria-prima / Abstract: The growing interest in clothing's comfort, used in professional activities, sports and even casual clothes, created a demand for knowledge of the properties and features desirable regarding interaction with the user. The moisture transport is one of the main parameters related to comfort. The ability to transport perspiration to environment, of a fabric, influences directly the perception of comfort. The measurement of the moisture transport is a valuable tool in assessing the performance and development of new textile products, mainly because there are not many studies on polyester woven fabrics. In order to evaluate the behavior of textile's comfort, by moisture multidimensional transport, moisture transport by capillarity (wicking), vapor permeability and air permeability, polyester woven fabrics produced with different weaves and filament's yarn count number were compared. The results showed that the presence of finer filaments (microfiber), coupled with twill weave, facilitates capillarity moisture transport and air permeability, while the multidimensional moisture transport and vapor permeability parameters are not influenced by different filament's yarn count number and weaves, only influenced by the properties of the raw material / Doutorado / Ciencia e Tecnologia de Materiais / Doutora em Engenharia Quimica

The behaviour of cohesionless soils is known to be influenced by the method of reconstitution. It is generally accepted in the literature that different reconstitution methods produce samples of varying fabric and thus samples of varying behaviour. Very little evidence has been presented to validate this statement. The main aim of this is thesis is firstly to observe the fabric of in situ and reconstituted gold tailings samples and secondly to investigate the difference in behaviour between these samples at the same state. The investigation focused on testing in situ and reconstituted gold tailings samples obtained from 3 positions on a tailings dam; pond, middle beach and upper beach. Laboratory reconstitution methods included moist tamping and slurry deposition. Fabric analysis involved the use of SEM images to classify the observed differences in the fabric of the undisturbed and reconstituted gold tailings samples. A particle interaction model based on the observed fabric was postulated to explain the differences or similarities in behaviour. The scope of behaviour investigated included sedimentation, collapse and swell, consolidation and compressibility, creep, stiffness and shear behaviour. The fabric analysis indicates that differences in the fabric of undisturbed and reconstituted gold tailings samples are visible. Moist tamping produces an aggregated fabric while slurry deposition yields a homogeneous fabric similar to that of the undisturbed samples. Comparison of behaviour indicates that neither moist tamping nor slurry deposition can replicate the behaviour of the undisturbed sample fully. Consolidation and compression is a function of the fabric while friction angle is independent of the fabric. Available shear strength and liquifaction potential is also affected by the preparation method and the resulting fabric. / Thesis (PhD)--University of Pretoria, 2009. / Civil Engineering / PhD / Unrestricted

The study area comprises the Archaean Manica Greenstone Belt and the Vumba Granite Gneiss, the Proterozoic Messica Granite Gneiss of the Zimbabwe Craton, the possibly allochthonous metasedimentary sequence of the Frontier Formation, the granitoids of the Mozambique Metamorphic Province, which are subdivided into Vanduzi Migmatite Gneiss, the Chimoio Granodiorite Gneiss, the Nhansipfe Granitic Orthogneiss and the Pan-African Tchinhadzandze Granodiorite Gneiss. The rock sequences in the two provinces are cut by mafic intrusions. The greenstone belt comprises mafic to ultramafic and pelitic schists and serpentinites of the Macequece Formation and metasediments ofthe M'BezaNengo Formation. The mafic to ultramafic schists and the serpentinites have chemical signatures of komatiites. The Vumba Granite Gneiss comprises the northern and southern Vumba granitoids dated at 3885±255 Ma, and 2527±632 Ma respectively. They vary from metaluminous to peraluminous, have normative QAP compositions of granodiorites and monzogranites and chemical signatures of mantle fractionates and volcanic-arc granitoids. The Early Proterozoic Messica Granite Gneiss is 2348±267 Ma old, is metaluminous and has QAP compositions of monzogranites and chemical signatures suggesting a crustal source and a volcanic-arc environment. The Frontier Formation comprises quartzite and pelitic schists. The Vanduzi Migmatite Gneiss comprises stromatic and stictolithic types. Two mineral assemblages are distinguished as they contain either garnet or hornblende. The Mid-Proterozoic Chimoio Granodioritic Gneiss is 1236±201 Ma old. It is granodioritic and metaluminous with a chemical signature of volcanic-arc granitoids. The Late Proterozoic Nhansipfe Granitic Orthogneiss is dated at 981 ±83 Ma and varies from metaluminous to peraluminous. The Rb, Nb and Y contents are typical of within-plate granitoids, whereas Ga, Zr, AI, Ce andY are typical of A-type granitoids. The age of the mafic intrusions falls between ~500 and ~11 00 Ma. The rocks typically contain plagioclase, hornblende and clinopyroxene with or without garnet and orthopyroxene. The chemistry of the rocks is typical of sub-alkaline tholeiites. The Tchinhadzandze Granodiorite Gneiss may be part of a Pan African event which lasted till ~450-~500 Ma. The normative feldspar compositions and Rb, Ba and Sr contents are typical of granodiorites. It is metaluminous and has Rb, Y and Nb contents typical of volcanic arc granitoids. The planar fabrics in the Archaean granite-greenstone belt are characterized by E-W to SW-NE strikes and steep dips to N and S and to NW and SE. The mineral lineations and fold axes plunge 60° and 30° respectively towards the E. Within the Mozambique belt, around the central part and in the extreme east of the study area, the planar fabrics have essentially N-S strikes and steep dips to E and Win contrast with complex deformation observed in the migmatites and megacrystic granitoids. The study area can be subdivided into three metamorphic blocks, namely, one of low-grade greenschist facies, one of medium-grade amphibolite facies and a third block of high-grade metamorphism. / Dissertation (MSc)--University of Pretoria, 2012. / Geology / unrestricted