Tesis por compendio / [ES] La funcionalización de tejidos permite dotar a estos de nuevas propiedades que no poseen de forma inherente. Por su parte, el grafeno presenta excelentes características en cuanto a conductividad térmica y eléctrica, resistencia y flexibilidad. En esta tesis se evalúa la aplicación de grafeno sobre diferentes sustratos textiles para obtener tejidos capaces de conducir la electricidad y responder a estímulos térmicos, bien disipando el calor o bien transformando una corriente eléctrica en un incremento de temperatura en su superficie. Para ello, se aplica grafeno empleando diferentes métodos recubrimiento con rasqueta e impregnación sobre tejidos de celulosa y de poliéster. En primer lugar, destaca la influencia que ejerce la estructura del tejido sobre la resistencia eléctrica del recubrimiento, dando como resultado que aquellos tejidos con mayor coeficiente de ligadura son los que mejores resultados presentan al tener una superficie más homogénea en la que se deposita el recubrimiento. Asimismo, se halla que la incorporación de materiales de cambio de fase en el recubrimiento con grafeno permite una mayor disipación de calor cuando se calienta el tejido. Además, se consigue calefactar las muestras empleadas utilizando diferentes voltajes eléctricos lo que, a su vez, sirve para evaluar los defectos del recubrimiento analizando las imágenes termográficas. Entre otros hallazgos relevantes también cabe destacar la influencia que ejerce la humedad del sustrato sobre la resistencia eléctrica del grafeno y la importancia del curado térmico de las resinas para asegurar una buena solidez a los lavados. / [CA] La funcionalización de teixits permet dotar a aquests de noves propietats que no posseeixen de manera inherent. Per part seua, el grafé presenta excel·lents propietats quant a conductivitat tèrmica i elèctrica, resistència i flexibilitat. En aquesta tesi s'avalua l'aplicació de grafé sobre diferents substrats tèxtils per a obtindre teixits capaços de conduir l'electricitat i respondre a estímuls tèrmics, bé dissipant la calor o bé transformant un corrent elèctric en un increment de temperatura en la seua superfície. Per a això, s'aplica grafé emprant recobriment amb rasqueta i estampat sobre teixits de cel·lulosa i de polièster. En primer lloc, destaca la influència que exerceix l'estructura del teixit sobre la resistència elèctrica del recobriment, obtenint que aquells teixits amb major coeficient de lligadura són els que millors resultats presenten en tindre una superfície més homogènia en la qual es deposita el recobriment. Així mateix, es troba que la incorporació de materials de canvi de fase en el recobriment amb grafé permet una major dissipació de calor quan es calfa el teixit. A més, s'aconsegueix calefactar les mostres emprades utilitzant diferents voltatges elèctrics el que, al seu torn, serveix per a avaluar els defectes del recobriment analitzant les imatges termogràfiques. Entre altres troballes rellevants també cal destacar la influència que exerceix la humitat del substrat sobre la resistència del grafé i la importància del curat tèrmic de les resines per a assegurar una bona solidesa a les rentades. / [EN] Fabrics functionalization provides them with new properties that they do not inherently possess. Furthermore, graphene has excellent characteristics in terms of thermal and electrical conductivity, resistance, and flexibility. In this thesis, the application of graphene on different textile substrates is evaluated to obtain fabrics capable of conducting electricity and responding to thermal stimuli, either by dissipating heat or by transforming an electrical current into an increase in surface temperature. For this purpose, graphene is applied using knife-coating and screen-printing on cellulose and polyester fabrics. First of all, it is worth highlighting the influence exerted by the structure of the fabric on the electrical resistance of the coating, obtaining that those fabrics with the highest interlacing coefficient are the ones that present the best results as they have a more homogeneous surface on which the coating is deposited. Also, it is found that the incorporation of phase change materials in the coating containing graphene allows for greater heat dissipation when the fabric is heated. In addition, it is possible to heat the samples using different electrical voltages, which also serves to evaluate the defects of the coating by analyzing the thermographic images. Among other relevant findings, it is also worth highlighting the influence that substrate humidity exerts on the resistance of graphene and the importance of thermal curing of the resins to ensure good washing fastness. / Ruiz Calleja, TR. (2021). Funcionalización de textiles mediante la aplicación de grafeno [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/179634 / Compendio

5 English abstract The introduction of the thesis represents a profound research of current knowledge and survey results to date about the geodynamic tectonic boundary development of the Teplá- Barrandien unit/Moldanubian senzu stricto and the Královský Hvozd unit in the Šumava Mountains. It also describes in detail lithology of the Královský Hvozd unit and historical as well as contemporary opinions of the tectonometamorphic development of the Královský Hvozd unit and adjacent Moldanubian unit and Teplá-Barrandien unit. The research part of the thesis brings results of the analysis of the Královský Hvozd unit tectonic development in relation with the tectonic development of broader surrounding area. The research combines field structural data, detailed microstructure data acquired from collected samples and results of studying deformation mechanisms on orthogneiss samples from the Královský Hvozd unit using the EBSD (Electron Back Scattered Diffraction) performed on partly recrystalised quartz aggregates. The research output is a construction of a tectonic development model of the Královský Hvozd unit and the adjacent area. Four main deformation events (D1-D4) were determined on the basis of structural record and their time sequence in the rocks of the Královský Hvozd unit. On the basis of kinematic...

This research explored a Digital Laser Dye (DLD) patterning process as an alternative coloration method within a textile design practice context. An interdisciplinary framework employed to carry out the study involved Optical Engineering, Dyeing Chemistry, Textile Design and Industry Interaction through collaboration with the Society of Dyers and Colourists. In doing so, combined creative, scientific and technical methods facilitated design innovation. Standardized polyester (PET) knitted jersey and plain, woven fabrics were modified with CO2 laser technology in order to engineer dye onto the fabric with high-resolution graphics. The work considered the aesthetic possibilities, production opportunities and environmental potential of the process compared to traditional and existing surface design techniques. Laser-dyed patterns were generated by a digital dyeing technique involving CAD, laser technology and dye practices to enable textile coloration and patterning. An understanding of energy density was used to define the tone of a dye in terms of colour depth in relation to the textile. In doing so, a system for calibrating levels of colour against laser energy in order to build a tonal image was found. Central to the investigation was the consideration of the laser beam spot as a dots-per-inch tool, drawing on the principles used in digital printing processes. It was therefore possible to utilise the beam as an image making instrument for modifying textile fibres with controlled laser energy. Qualitative approaches employed enabled data gathering to incorporate verbal and written dialogue based on first-hand interactions. Documented notes encompassed individual thought and expression which facilitated the ability to reflect when engaged in practical activity. As such, tacit knowledge and designerly intuition, which is implicit by nature, informed extended design experiments and the thematic documentation of samples towards a textile design collection. Quantitative measurement and analysis of the outcomes alongside creative exploration aided both a tacit understanding of, and ability to control processing parameters. This enabled repeatability of results parallel to design development and has established the potential to commercially apply the technique. Sportswear and intimate apparel prototypes produced in the study suggest suitable markets for processing polyester garments in this way.

This dissertation is submitted to the faculty of History of Arts, University of the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg in fulfilment of the Degree of Master of Arts, Johannesburg 2017 / The dissertation take a multi-layered approach to under=standing the body in art, politics, history and space as a moving, understanding and signifying entity. as this dissertation is presented as a magazine, my deliberation starts with its design. Every chapter can be taken to address another layer to Mary Sibande's artwork Sophie: [No abstract provided. Information taken from introduction]. / XL2018

La mise en forme des pièces composites par Resin Transfert Molding (RTM) nécessite de maîtriser, en autre, deux étapes clés : la déformation à sec du renfort et l’injection de la résine. Dans une démarche d’optimisation du procédé, la simulation numérique est un outil incontournable. Ces travaux de thèse s’inscrivent dans cette thématique avec deux contributions essentielles : Mésomécanique : les renforts textiles sont des milieux poreux périodiques. Ces caractéristiques incitent à les modéliser à l’échelle mésoscopique, où le modèle géométrique se réduit à un Volume Elémentaire Représentatif (VER). A cette échelle, le problème de référence à résoudre est fortement non linéaire : comportement non linéaire des mèches, grandes transformations et contact entre mèches. La résolution par une méthode élément fini se heurte à une problématique : la formation de surfaces de contact entre le VER et ses voisins. Une partie de la déformation provient de ce contact formé aux frontières de la période. Aucune solution robuste ne permet à l’heure actuelle de prendre en compte ce contact. Le premier objectif de cette thèse est d’apporter une solution à cette problématique. Etude de perméabilité : la qualité des pièces composites en fin de chaîne de production dépend en partie du processus d’assemblage matrice/renfort. L’un des paramètres qui conditionne le bon déroulement de cet assemblage est la perméabilité du renfort. Expérimentalement, c’est une propriété très difficile à estimer. La simulation numérique est un moyen alternatif d’y accéder, avec la possibilité d’imposer des conditions aux limites parfaites au sens mathématique. De nombreuses études ont été réalisées dans le cas 2D. Le second objectif de cette thèse est de proposer en parti une méthode pour estimer par le calcul la perméabilité d’un renfort 3D. / The manufacture of composite parts by Resin Transfert Molding (RTM) requires to control two main phases: the shaping of the dry reinforcement and the injection of the matrix. Numerical simulation is a powerful tool when it comes to find the right set of parameters needed to obtain a part without non conformity. These research works where performed in this specific field with two main contributions: Mesomechanic: textile fabrics are periodic porous media. Modelling these materials at the mesoscale permit to reduce the geometrical model to a Representative Volume Element (RVE). At this scale the boundary value problem to solve is highly nonlinear: non linear behavior of the yarns, large deformations and contact. Solving this problem with a Finite Element Method include dealing with contact surface generation between the RVE and its neighbors. Part of the RVE yarns deformation is coming from these multiple contacts at the borders. There is no methods yet that solve this issue. The first objective of this thesis is to produce one. Permeability: the quality of the composite part at the end of the manufacturing process depends also of the matrix/reinforcement assembly. One of the parameters that influence the efficiency of this linkage is the permeability of the reinforcement. Measuring permeability throughout experiments is not easy. Numerical simulation offers another way to estimate the permeability of a textile fabric. Numerous works have been performed in this subject especially on 2D textiles. The second objective of this thesis is to propose a method for the numerical estimation of the permeability tensor of 2D and 3D textiles.

Le travail présenté dans ce mémoire concerne le développement d’un système universel de manipulation de matériaux textiles souples. Il s’agit d’une pince de manipulation universelle qui se compose de trois techniques de manipulation, technique de vide, technique d’intrusion, technique de pincement. Cette pince universelle a été développée pour manipuler une surface textile de 100 x 100 mm². Les buts de cette pince sont les suivants: Acquérir une seule couche à partir d'un empilement de tissus.Tenir une seule couche, la transférer et la manipuler jusqu’au poste suivant.La technique de vide est la première technique développée dans notre recherche, elle se compose des organes de préhension qui sont « trois ventouses pneumatiques » dont les matériaux varient en fonction des matériaux textiles à manipuler, trois compensateurs de hauteur pour fixer les ventouses pneumatique et d'un générateur de vide pour créer le vide nécessaire grâce à un régulateur de pression. Les trois ventouses pneumatiques sont placées précisément sur les têtes d’un triangle équilatéral, au-dessus de la pièce textile. La technique d’intrusion est la deuxième technique développée dans notre recherche, cette technique est constituée de deux parties principales: Une partie qui donne le mouvement et l'actionnement des organes de préhension.Une partie de préhension qui contient des éléments de préhension qui sont des aiguilles.L’ensemble est commandé, au travers de vérins, par de l’air comprimée. La technique de pincement est la troisième technique développée dans notre recherche, elle comprend des organes de serrage opposés qui sont à mis en mouvement de façon alternative par deux vérins pneumatiques Deux types de validation des éléments constituant de la pince de préhension développée ont été réalisés avec succès, une validation statique en utilisant un support de fixation, une validation dynamique en utilisant un bras de robot. Pendant la validation statique, nous avons trouvé que la technique de vide fonctionnait très bien avec les matériaux imperméables à l’air et avec des matériaux ayant une porosité inférieure à 80% et/ou une perméabilité inférieure à 1500 L/m²/s sous 200 Pa.Pour les matériaux textiles ayant une porosité supérieure à 80% et/ou d’une perméabilité supérieure à 1500 L/m²/s sous 200 Pa, la consommation importante d’air comprimé interdit l’utilisation de cette technique et la force réelle d’attraction dépendant des propriétés du matériau manipulé suivant :La porosité, La perméabilité à l’air, La masse surfacique de matériau. Concernant la technique d’intrusion, nous trouvé que cette technique permet une manipulation efficace des matériaux textiles qui sont difficiles à manipuler par la technique de vide. Elle fonctionne très bien pour des matériaux perméables à l’air (tissus d’armure toile, tricots) alors qu’elle endommage les matériaux imperméables. Les risques liés à cette technique est le prélèvement de plusieurs couches à la fois si la profondeur de perçages des aiguilles n’est pas contrôlé précisément. Pendant la validation statique de la technique de pincement, nous avons trouvé que cette technique ne fonctionne pas bien seule.Pour résoudre ce problème, nous avons utilisé, la combinaison de deux technologies La technique d’intrusion technique La technique de pincement Et La technique de vide. La technique de pincement Les résultats trouvés pendant la validation de cette technique sont les suivants : la technologie de vide associée à la technique de serrage est la combinaison la plus efficace et la plus fiable, par contre un des inconvénients de cette technique est le contrôle de la force de serrage afin d’éviter l’endommagement de la surface de matériau manipulé. [...] / The work presented in this thesis concerns the development of a universal system for handling flexible textile materials. This is a universal gripper for manipulation, which consists of three technologies of manipulations, vacuum technology, intrusion technology, pinch technology. This new universal system was developed to handle a pieces of cut fabrics a square shape which had the dimensions of 100 mm×100 mm. The aims of this gripper are: Acquiring a single ply from a stack of woven fabrics Acquiring a single ply, handling and transfer it to the next station.The vacuum technology is the first technique developed in our research, it consists of a grippers which are « three pneumatic flat suction pads with stops » whose materials vary according to the manipulate textile materials, three level compensators for fixing the penumatic flat suction pads and a pneumatic vacuum generator to create the necessary vacuum thanks to a pressure regulator. The three pneumatic flat suction pads are precisely placed on the heads of an equilateral triangle, above the textile piece.The intrusion technology is the second technique developed in our research; this technique consists of two main parts: A party that gives movement and actuation of the gripper A party for gripping witch include the gripping elements that are needles The both parties are controlled, through a penumatic cylinder, by compressed air.The pinch technology is the third technique developed in our research; it comprises clamping grippers which are placed oppositely to moving alternately by two pneumatic cylinders.Two types of validation of the elements constituting of the gripper developed are performed, static validation by using a bracket, dynamic validation by using the robot arm.During the validation static, we found that the vacuum technology performs well for non-permeable materials and with the materials whose their porosity less of the 80 % and their air permeability less than 1500 L/m²/s under 200 pa.For the materials textiles whose their porosity more than 80 % and their permeability more than 1500 L/m²/s under 200 pa, the high consumption of compressed air prohibits the use of this technique, and the real force of attraction dependent on the following material manipulated properties: • Porosity of the material• Air permeability• Weight of the material.Concerning the intrusion technique, we found that this technique allows realizing an effective handling of textile materials which are difficult to handle by the vacuum technique. It performs very well for air permeable materials (plain weave fabrics, knitted fabrics), while damaging waterproof materials. The risk associated with this technique is the manipulation multiplies of the layers at a time if the depth of the piercing of the needles is not precisely controlled.During the static validation of the pinch technique, we found that this technique does not function well alone. To solve this problem, we used, the combination of two technologies: Intrusion technology Pinch technology and Vacuum technology Pinch technologyThe results found during the validation of this technique are: the vacuum technology associated with the pinch technology is the most effective combination and more reliable, by against one disadvantage of this technique is the control of the clamping forces to prevent the damage of the material surface manipulated.For the dynamic validation of the gripper developed, we used the robot manipulation STÄUBLI. We fixed the gripper on the end of the arm of robot and after setting it, we varied the speed of manipulation to determine the limits of the manipulation by each technology.These validation procedures have in evidence the limits of our new gripper in terms of capacity of the gripping, consumption of the compressed air, characteristics and limitations of the flexible materials handled. [...]

Textile forms of wearable technology offer the potential for users to interact with electronic devices in a whole new manner. However, the operation of a wearable system can result in non-traditional on-body interactions (including gestural commands) that users may not be comfortable with performing in a public setting. Understanding the societal perceptions of gesture-based interactions will ultimately impact how readily a new form of mobile technology will be adopted within society. The goal of this research is to assess the social acceptability of a user's interaction with an electronic textile wearable interface. Two means of interaction were studied: the first was to assess the most acceptable input method for the interface (tapping, sliding, circular rotation); and the second assessment was to measure the social acceptability of a user interacting with the detachable textile interface at different locations on the body. The study recruited participants who strictly identified themselves as being of American nationality so as to gain insight into the culture-specific perceptions of interacting with a wearable form of technology.

Ballistic fabrics made from high performance polymeric fibers such as Kevlar®, Twaron® and Spectra® fibers and composites utilizing these fabrics are among the leading materials for modern body armor systems. Polymeric fibers used to produce ballistic fabrics often behave viscoelastically and exhibit time- and rate-dependent stress-strain relations. This necessitates the study of the constitutive behavior of composites filled by ballistic fabrics. Rheological models based on discrete rheological components (including spring and dashpot) have been widely used to study the viscoelastic behavior of polymeric fabrics. Such rheological (or viscoelasticity) models are qualitatively useful in understanding the effects of various micro-mechanisms and molecular features on the macroscopic responses of ballistic fabrics. In the present work, the constitutive behavior of Twaron CT709® fabric/natural rubber (Twaron®/NR) composite is studied using three viscoelasticity models (i.e., a four-parameter Burgers model, a three-parameter generalized Maxwell (GMn=1) model, a five-parameter generalized Maxwell (GMn=2) model) and a newly developed para-rheological model. The new model utilizes a three-parameter element to represent the Twaron® fabric and the affine network based molecular theory of rubber elasticity to account for the deformation mechanisms of the NR constituent. The uniaxial stress-strain relation of the Twaron®/NR composite at two constant strain rates is experimentally determined. The values of the parameters involved in all the models are extracted from the experimental data obtained in this study. The stress-relaxation response (under a uniaxial constant strain) and the creep deformation (under a uniaxial constant stress) of the composite are also experimentally measured. The three viscoelasticity models considered here are capable of predicting the viscoelastic constitutive behavior of the composite with different levels of accuracy. The stress-strain relation at each strain rate predicted by the newly developed para-rheological model is seen to be in good agreement with the measured stress-strain curve over the entire strain range studied. It is shown that the new model also predicts the elastic moduli and ultimate stress of the Twaron®/NR composite well. All the four models are found to predict the initial relaxation response of the composite fairly well, while the long-term stress relaxation is more accurately represented by the para-rheological model. An implicit solution provided by the para-rheological model is shown to predict the creep response of the composite more accurately than all the other models at both the primary and secondary stages. The mathematical complexity that arises from including an additional Maxwell element to the GMn=1 model to obtain the GMn=2 model with enhanced predictability is traded with the use of simple characteristic time functions in the para-rheological model. These functions are found to greatly improve the predictability of the newly developed model for the stress relaxation modulus and creep compliance. This study also explores the utility of the para-rheological model as a tool to probe the micromechanisms and molecular features that are causally related to the macroscopically observed viscoelastic behavior of the composite. The relaxation and creep trends predicted by the para-rheological model indicate that the long time viscoelastic response of the composite lies between that of a crosslinked polymer and a semi-crystalline thermoplastic.

According to Domowitz (1992), the Agni women of Cote d'Ivoire assign proverbs and aphorisms as names to wax-dyed cloth. Women then use the imagery and associated proverbs behind cloth names to send non-verbal messages they would otherwise be unable to express publicly. The purpose of this study is twofold: first, to investigate wax-dyed cloth names including their underlying meanings and uses given by women in Cote d'Ivoire and Togo; and second, to investigate how these names are acquired in French by women who have no formal education. Qualitative results revealed that women in these two countries are very motivated to learn cloth names. New undocumented names and their underlying meanings were also found. Some of these meanings were found to be educational; others are used to maintain status or to clarify power relationships. At the same time, quantitative results indicated that knowledge and use of cloth names in both communities studied is in decline.

The importance of automating the garment manufacturing process has been understood since the early 1980s. However, in spite of millions of dollars spent on research, three decades later, the industry is still far from achieving a fully autonomous process. Previous work on fabric control in automated sewing focused on the control of only a single sheet of fabric using an industrial manipulator with an overhead vision system. These methods did not meet the accuracy and robustness requirements of the sewing process with respect to fabric position and fabric tension. To address these issues, a new method for fabric control in automated sewing is described. It uses the current feed mechanism on sewing machines, feed dogs, but modifies them to be servo-controlled. These servo controlled actuators, servo dogs, individually control two sheets of fabric before the fabric reaches the needle and during the sewing process. The servo dogs actuate the fabric 180o out of phase with the sewing needle, providing incremental control of the fabric when the needle is out of the fabric. To achieve this type of control successfully for automated sewing, the servo dogs have been designed for short displacement, high acceleration motions using a cable drive system powered by voice coil motors. Feedback of fabric position has been determined to be necessary and is to be provided by a thread-tracking vision system. This thesis outlines the general design of the system and discusses a prototype used to validate the design, and describes experiments performed to examine how the fabric will behave with the use of this type of actuation method.