O registro proterozóico da Fazenda Funil, região de Cabeceiras, GO, inclui três unidades sedimentares: carbonatos do topo do Grupo Paranoá, níveis de diamictito da Formação Jequitaí, e um pacote de folhelhos, ritmitos de margas e folhelhos e carbonatos da Formação Sete Lagoas. As três unidades registram ocorrência de sílex microfossilífero, encontrados na forma de lentes no Grupo Paranoá, seixos na Formação Jequitaí e uma camada de aproximadamente 600 m de extensão na Formação Sete Lagoas. A semelhança do sílex nas três unidades levou ao questionamento da estratigrafia da Fazenda Funil e da origem dos seixos na Formação Jequitaí, se esta origem foi, de fato, sedimentar (glacial) ou se teria sido tectônico. Foram comparadas as tramas petrográficas (fabrics) do sílex das três unidades, aspectos inorgânicos (minerais, estruturas sedimentares e estruturas diagenéticas) e o seu conteúdo orgânico (microfósseis e características da matéria orgânica). A análise das amostras revelou grande semelhança entre as tramas e seus microfósseis. Nas três unidades foram identificados os mesmos tipos de tramas cinco tipos e 12 táxons de microfósseis, sendo que dois deles ainda não haviam sido identificados na região. Conclui-se que a camada de sílex atualmente atribuída à Formação Sete Lagoas foi a fonte dos seixos de sílex do diamictito da Formação Jequitaí e representa, na verdade, uma lasca tectônica do Grupo Paranoá colocada dentro do Grupo Bambuí durante a deformação brasiliana. Esta camada teria sido erodido e o diamictito depositado presumivelmente durante a glaciação Sturtiana, embora outras evidências glaciais não fossem observadas na Fazenda Funil. Este trabalho, além de esclarecer as relações estratigráficas na Fazenda Funil, demonstrou que microfósseis pré-cambrianos podem ser uma ferramenta muito útil no entendimento de bacias proterozoicas. / The Proterozoic record of the Fazenda Funil, near Cabeceiras, GO, includes three sedimentary units: carbonate at the top of Paranoá Group, diamictite of the Jequitaí Formation, and a succession of shale, marl-shale rhythmites, and carbonate of the Sete Lagoas Formation. Microfossiliferous chert occurs in these three units in the form of lenses in the Paranoá Group, clasts within the diamictites of the Jequitaí Formation and as a persistent, 600 meter-long layer in the Sete Lagoas Formation. The similarity of the chert from these three units brings up crucial questions as to the stratigraphy of the Fazenda Funil and the origin of the clasts in the Jequitaí Formation : are they, in fact, of sedimentary (glacial) or tectonic origin? Comparisons among the three units were made of chert fabrics, inorganic aspects (minerals, sedimentary and diagenetic structures), and organic content (microfossils and general characteristics of the organic matter). The analysis of several samples revealed great similarity between the fabrics and microfossils in the three units. Five fabrics and 12 microfossil taxons were identified, two taxons for the first time in the region. These observations led to the conclusion that the chert layer presently attributed to the Sete Lagoas Formation was the source of the chert clasts in the Jequitaí Formation and represents is a slice of the Paranoá Group introduced tectonically within the Bambuí Group during Brasiliano deformation. This layer was eroded and the diamictite deposited presumably during the Sturtian glaciation, even though other evidence of glaciation were not observed on Fazenda Funil. This research, besides clarifying stratigraphic relationships on Fazenda Funil, also demonstrates that Precambrian microfossils can be a very useful tool in research on Proterozoic basins.

La démarche expérimentale menée dans cette thèse a eu comme objectif l'étude des facteurs qui influent l'efficacité de collecte des médias non-tissés chargés par décharge couronne, utilisés pour la filtration de l'air. Les recherches se sont focalisées sur les techniques faisant appel à la décharge couronne en configuration fil-plan et en configuration triode (électrode duale + grille + plan de masse). L'étude s'est déroulée en trois phases : (1) mise au point de dispositifs expérimentaux pour générer la décharge couronne et mesurer le potentiel électrique à la surface des échantillons chargés ; (2) caractérisation de l'état de charge des médias ; (3) évaluation de l'efficacité de collecte, en corrélation avec les résultats des mesures de charge. La distribution de charges a été plus homogène en configuration triode et le niveau de charge a été meilleur en polarité positive. Le déplacement de l'échantillon dans la zone de décharge électrique permet de mieux uniformiser la distribution de la charge. L'augmentation du courant de décharge et du potentiel de grille permet d'amplifier le niveau de charge des médias, suite à l'intensification du champ électrique moyen entre l'électrode active et le plan de masse (en configuration fil – plan), ou entre la grille et le plan de masse (en configuration triode). L'efficacité de la collecte est meilleure si la charge est uniformément déposée, sous l'action d'un champ électrique plus intense. Elle est plus élevée pour les configurations dites « multicouches » où la captation des particules est améliorée par l'association de plusieurs mécanismes physiques, mettant en jeux des forces électriques et mécaniques. / The experimental approach undertaken in this thesis was aimed at the study of the factors affecting the collection efficiency of nonwoven media charged by corona discharge, used for air filtration. Research was focused on techniques using the corona discharge generated by wire-plane and triode configurations (dual electrode + grid + ground plane). The study was conducted in three phases: (1) development of experimental devices to generate corona discharge and measure the electrical potential on the surface of charged samples; (2) characterization of the electrostatic charge state of the media; (3) evaluation of the collection efficiency, correlated with the results of charge measurements. The charge distribution was more homogeneous in triode configuration and the charge level was higher in positive polarity. The sample movement in the electric discharge zone allowed for more uniform distribution of the charge. The increase of the discharge current and gate voltage amplifies the charge level of the media, due to the intensification of the average electric field between the active electrode and the ground plane (configuration wire - plane) or between the gate and the ground plane (in triode configuration). The collection efficiency is better when the charge is uniformly deposited, under the action of a strong electric field. It is higher for the so-called "multi-layer" configurations where the capture of the particles is improved by the combination of several physical mechanisms, involving electrical and mechanical forces.

Dans ce mémoire de maitrise, nous avons cherché à recenser les manifestations des couleurs des produits textiles achetés durant les soixante-deux années de la papauté d’Avignon (1316-1378) d’avant le Schisme. L’objectif de la présente recherche est d’élaborer une base de données systématique et synthétique qui répertorie les manifestations de couleur des tissus et des étoffes achetées par la papauté avignonnaise au XIVe siècle et répertoriées dans les registres de caisse Introitus et Exitus. Également, notre étude vise à expliquer les tendances d’occurrence de ces manifestations à l’aide des études sur les symboliques des couleurs au XIVe siècle. Pour être en mesure d’analyser les données recensées et systématisées, nous avons fait appel à des historiographies complémentaires concernant l’administration de la papauté, la symbolique des couleurs au XIVe siècle, la teinture et les vêtements. Au terme de cette étude, nous pouvons soutenir que la papauté avignonnaise accorde une place importante aux couleurs de tissus et étoffes, d’où la présence d’un grand nombre de mentions de couleurs dans les registres étudiés. Les manifestations de ces diverses couleurs sont, quant à elles, influencées par leur symbolique au XIVe siècle, les techniques de teinture et l’usage prévu des tissus et des étoffes de couleur. Ainsi, le rouge, le blanc, le vert et le brun sont les couleurs les plus mentionnées lors des achats de produits textiles, étant très en demande pour leur symbolique et pour leurs usages auprès de la Curie et de l’Aumônerie. Les manifestations de l’or, de l’orange, du violet, de l’argent, du pourpre, du gris, du noir et du bleu sont, quant à eux, plus rares, à cause du prix élevé et des difficultés d’obtention de tissus de ces couleurs. / In this master’s thesis, we sought to showcase the permutations of the colours of textile products bought during the sixty-two years under the Avignon papacy (1316-1378). The objective of this research is to develop a systematic and synthetic database that lists the permutations of coloured fabrics purchased by the Avignon papacy in the 14th century that are listed and compiled in the Introitus and Exitus. Our study also aims to explain the trends in the occurrence of these permutations using studies on the symbolism of colours in the 14th century. To be able to analyze the data that we collected and systematized, we called upon additional studies regarding the administration of the papacy, the symbolism of colours in the 14th century, the art of dyeing and the use of clothing. At the end of this study, we can maintain that the Avignon papacy allocates an important role to colours, hence the presence of many colours in the analyzed registers. The manifestations of these various colours are influenced by their symbolism in the 14th century, their dyeing techniques, and the intended use of coloured fabrics. Thus, red, white, green and brown are the most mentioned colours of textile products, these colours being in great demand because of their symbolism and their intended use with the Curia and Panhota. The appearances of gold, orange, violet, silver, purple, gray, black and blue are rarer, because of their price and the difficulties of obtaining fabrics of these colors.

The diploma thesis is focused on a preparation of a business plan for the establishment of a new home furnishing fabrics and decorations e-shop. It examines the present market and competition state. It contains a project implementation draft including a financial budget.

This master thesis studies the recycling prospects of textiles. The textile industry contributes negatively to the global environmentthrough the release of greenhouse gases and consumption of resources. In order to achieve a circular textile industry, textiles must be recyclable by both chemical and mechanical means. Here, the focus is on mechanical extraction of staple fibres, particularly cotton, for reentry into yarn production. Experiments show that used, but undamaged, cotton sateen and cotton twill responds differently to abrasion with stochastic surfaces. Previous studies on the conventional shredding processes have shown positive impact from lubricants on extracted fibre lengths, by reducing inter-fibre friction. In the present study on abrasion, variables such as alignment of the weave pattern, lubrication and load are shown to have little to no impact on extracted fibre length, but notable effects on overall fibre quality. These analyses are supported by manual length assessment, electron micrographs and tensile tests using load cells. Furthermore, simple tests and observations on structured diamond surfaces constructed through chemical vapor deposition are promising for mechanical fibre release directly from a woven fabric. Suggestions are made on continued research in this field.

Drape simulation of textiles is a field of research, which is known in the clothing sector for a long time. The ongoing development of high-performance composites made of textile reinforcements and matrix materials focus the interests on a serial production in many industrial sectors, such as aviation and automotive industries. Challenges occur mainly in the serial production technologies and in supplying concepts for the preform architecture and shape. Research aims on the acceleration of preform manufacturing and the reduction of expensive pretests. Numerical simulation models can help to improve the composite development chain with structure and process simulation. A special challenge in drape modeling is the bending behavior of textiles. This study introduces a novel approach for modeling single textile layers as laminates to gain a correct mechanical behavior, where all deformation mechanisms are uncoupled. The implementation in the finite element software LS-DYNA® is described. An algorithm is introduced which provides the membrane stiffness for each layer of a laminate to fit the measured cantilever bending stiffness of textiles in every bending direction and bending side. The calculated parameters for the laminate formulation result in the requested bending stiffness for the textile layer. The cantilever bending stiffness can be used directly for dimensioning the model.

Woven barrier fabrics for filtration and operating room textiles feature permeable pore channels between yarn interlocking points (mesopores), which create an increased risk of penetration by contaminated fluids and particles. These pore channels can be reduced in size by high-density weaving. This, however, results in deteriorated drapability and performance characteristics. To meet the requirements made on the barrier effect without impairing the physiological properties of the textile, fluid-tight and particle-tight woven fabrics with adjustable porosity are being developed. This research aim could be realized by the targeted and partial application of microparticles into the mesopores. There, they form a meshed structure in the pores, whose size is thus reduced without them being entirely obstructed. The simultaneous retention of the micropores (pores between the individual filaments) in the woven fabric guarantees preservation of the physiological characteristics of the textile. The efficiency of the finishing was examined by an extensive physiological and physical characterization of the woven fabrics before and after particle application. Regarding the test method used to monitor the barrier effect and the channel paths, a test device was modified to simulate the demands of later, practical use.

Polyethylene terephthalate multifilament fabrics used as filtration and operating room textiles possess through-thickness pore channels at the yarn intersections (mesopores). These pore channels pose a risk for the penetration of contaminated fluids and particles. The size of pore channels may be reduced by high-density weaving. However, this leads to reduced drapability and thus to degraded application properties of the fabric. To satisfy the requirements without impeding the physiological properties of the textile, fluid- and particle-tight fabrics are developed. This was realized by partial immobilization of functionalized micro particles into the meso-pores. A reduction of the pore size without complete pore-closure is achieved by establishing a net-like particle structure in the meso-pores. To match the requirements of intensive use, permanent particle-bonding to the fiber surface is necessary. This can be achieved by suitable polyethylene terephthalate fabric surface-modification, dependent on the particle functionalization. The investigations have shown that functionalized particles establish a very good inter particle bonding as well as to the fiber surface. An increased permanent bonding can be realized by a modification of the fabric surface which is tuned to the functionalization of the particle.

Fiber-reinforced composites are currently being used in a wide range of lightweight constructions. Function integration, in particular, offers possibilities to develop new, innovative products for a variety of applications. The large amount of experimental testing required to investigate these novel material combinations often hinders their use in industrial applications. This paper presents an approach that allows the layout of adaptive, fiber-reinforced composites by the use of numerical simulation. In order to model the adaptive characteristics of this functional composite with textile-integrated shape memory alloys, a thermo-elastic simulation is considered by using the Finite Element method. For the numerical simulation, the parameters of the raw materials are identified and used to generate the model. The results of this simulation are validated through deflection measurements with a specimen consisting of a glass fiber fabric with structurally integrated shape memory alloys and an elastomeric matrix system. The achieved experimental and numerical results demonstrate the promising potential of adaptive, fiber-reinforced composites with large deformation capabilities.

L’histoire de la Thaïlande, et sa politique d’intégration des «Montagnards», expliquent la spécificité de la situation des Karen sur le territoire national. Ces derniers ne forment pas un groupe homogène, comme le montre mon ethnographie. A partir, et par la comparaison de deux villages sgaw karen, j’appréhende le vêtement karen et la structure des garde-robes comme révélateurs de «l’identité» de ces populations qui se revendiquent à la fois Karen et Thaïlandaises. Ce qui fait le vêtement karen, les règles internes à la culture karen et les influences extérieures, se dégagent de l’analyse technologique et de la typologie qui en découle. Le processus de constitution des garde-robes, au quotidien et en contexte cérémoniel, mettent en exergue la place centrale de la femme. Le prisme du vêtement nous révèle une société attachée à la continuité des générations et intégrée dans la société thaïlandaise dont elle adopte, en partie, les codes. / The history of Thailand and its integration policy for the «people of the Mountains» account for the specific situation of the Karen on the national territory. As my ethnologic study shows, these people do not constitute a homogeneous group. Taking as a starting point the comparison between two sgaw villages, I consider the Karen garment and the structure of the wardrobes as revealing the identity of these people who claim to be both Karen and Thai. The technological analysis and the ensuing typology outline what characterizes the Karen garment, the internal rules within the Karen culture and the external influences. The process of the development of the wardrobes, in daily use and in ceremonies, highlights the central position of women. Through the prism of the garment, is revealed a society attached to the succession of generations and integrated into the Thai society whose codes it partly adopts.