The people of ancient Peru produced textiles four thousand years before the Spanish Conquest in 1532 A.D.. They used almost every known technique and created some of the world's most outstanding handwoven textiles. One of the most visually exciting groups are the finely woven interlocking tapestry tunics that served as the official garments of the Wari (Huari) culture (c.700-1000 A.D.). The Wari maintained a highly organized social and economic state and its rigidity is manifested in the formal iconography and artistic conventions of their textiles. With sophisticated design principles and the masterful use of colour, however, the Wari counteracted the problems of monotony and repetition inherent in the strictly prescribed design of the garments. Few of the existing Wari tunics have accompanying scientific provenience or grave associations and therefore little is known of their cultural role. An art historical approach, however, utilizing stylistic analysis breaks the barrier created by the sparse scientific documentation and facilitates the deciphering of design conventions. Very little has been written specifically on Wari textiles. To date, the most important work is a brief article by Alan Sawyer. (Sawyer, 1963:27-38) In it he examines some of the complex design conventions and suggests a methodology for establishing a relative chronology. His methodology will be used in this study. This thesis begins with an examination of the Wari culture based on well documented ceramic evidence and continues with a discussion of provenience (when known), distribution, technology and iconography of the textiles. The focus of this study is the use of design conventions. Examination of three major design conventions - lateral distortion, symmetry and colour usage - is followed by a comparative analysis and a discussion of relevant ceramic evidence. Sawyer has divided Wari official garments into the following three types: 1. Type 1 - Paired elements 2. Type 2 - Composite motifs 3. Type 3 - Staff bearing anthropomorphic figures. This thesis is primarily concerned with the first type. The sample for this study consists of 47 representative examples ranging from fragments to complete tunics of Type 1. Through the examination of lateral distortion and the comparative analysis of relevant ceramic evidence and known textile provenience, a relative chronology can be proposed. It will be shown that it is possible to evaluate the design conventions of symmetry and colour usage to determine the rules governing their application. This in turn permits the identification of regional and temporal traits. / Arts, Faculty of / Art History, Visual Art and Theory, Department of / Graduate

Coarse-grained fabrics are comprised of multi-bit configurable logic blocks and configurable interconnect. This work is focused on area and energy optimization techniques for coarse-grained reconfigurable fabric architectures. In this work, a variety of design techniques have been explored to improve the utilization of computational resources and increase energy savings. This includes splitting, folding, multi-level vertical interconnect. In addition to this, I have also studied fully connected homogeneous and heterogeneous architectures, and 3D architecture. I have also examined some of the hybrid strategies of computation unit’s arrangements. In order to perform energy and area analysis, I selected a set of signal and image processing benchmarks from MediaBench suite. I implemented various fabric architectures on 90nm ASIC process from Synopsys. Results show area improvement with energy savings as compared to baseline architecture.

Localization of deformation occurs in Earth's crust as a consequence of applied stress and is widespread phenomenon that can be found in crustal rocks. Such localization of deformation can be mostly seen in a form of shear zones. Small shear zones referred as shear bands or S-C structures are often used as kinematic indicators. However, the evolution and kinematic continuity of such structures is not well identified, which makes it problematic when interpreting regional geodynamic evolution. Two possible cases were distinguished and described in this thesis: a) kinematically discontinuous S-C structures formed during two deformation events and b) kinematically continuous S-C structures formed during single deformation event. Kinematically unrelated S-C structures were studied in westernmost part of Tauern Window in Eastern Alps and in Gemer-Vepor Contact Zone in Central West Carpathians where previous geodynamic interpretations might have misinterpreted localization structures. Kinematically continuous shear bands were studied in South Armorican Shear Zone where the S-C fabrics were originally defined and described (Berthé et al., 1979). Two fabrics that crosscut each other at small angles forming S-C geometries were documented during field work and studied from macroscale down to microscale or...

<p dir="ltr">Defects in composite manufacturing often lead to compromised structural integrity and reduced performance of the final product. A robust constitutive modeling framework is needed to efficiently and accurately predict the deformation responses of dry fabrics and pre-impregnated fibers, paving the way for defect simulation. This thesis presents a comprehensive study on the development and application of a novel constitutive model of fabric preforms and pre-impregnated fibers during composite manufacturing processes.</p><p dir="ltr">This work proposes an integrated constitutive study for textile fabrics in the aspects of mesoscale tow and macroscale fabric behavior. First, a textile architecture-based discrete modeling approach was developed to predict and visualize fiber tow and fabric deformation. The fabrics consist of interlacing virtual fiber tows which are represented by Timoshenko beams joined by translational and rotational springs and rotary dashpots, which are used to capture the energy dissipation during in-plane shear deformation. Second, an anisotropic hyper-viscoelastic model was developed using the strain energy density function of a homogenized unit cell to predict the fabric deformation as a continuous field. A Maxwell model consisting of one Maxwell element and an additional spring is used to consider the nonequilibrium stresses generated during in-plane shear, transverse shear, and through-thickness compaction deformations. Both approaches were experimentally characterized and applied to a hemisphere draping model in the commercial Finite Element Analysis (FEA) software, Abaqus, to demonstrate the predictive capabilities.</p><p dir="ltr">Then, the robust hyper-viscoelastic model is extended to predict prepreg compaction and bending behavior. In the compaction aspect, a coupling term of energy that captures the effect of squeezing flow and a highly nonlinear transverse compression energy are proposed to predict the compaction response of prepreg with liquid and rubbery resin. The viscoelastic parameters were characterized by a Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) model for liquid resin and a discrete micromechanics model for rubbery resin. The method was applied to stepwise compaction simulation at different temperatures in Abaqus and compared to experiments for validation. In the bending aspect, the effective shear modulus is expressed as a function of the second-order gradient of deformation. Modeling parameters were characterized by an analytical model that captures the underlying fiber and matrix deformation mechanism. Parametric study was conducted to illustrate the influence of each parameter and the capability to enhance the accuracy of bending prediction.</p>

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Recent social changes in American family lifestyles have led many educators to rethink traditional curriculum decisions and to subsequently redirect secondary home economics programs. With the passage of the Carl D. Perkins Vocational Act of 1984, new directions were established for vocational educators (Hughes, Kister, & Smith, 1985). Through the use of the ethnographic interview, the researcher investigated ways in which these changes have affected the clothing and textiles teaching practices of five Virginia secondary teachers of consumer and homemaking comprehensive classes. The researcher investigated the amount of time spent sewing. and the informants’ justification for teaching clothing construction. The teachers were also asked to comment on their beliefs concerning current trends and their recommendations for future curriculum revisions. The teachers interviewed expressed a greater interest in meeting the needs of their students than in following current trends. In an apparent contradiction, they cited reasons for reduced interest and decreased need for sewing instruction but seemed reluctant to reduce or eliminate sewing instruction in the classroom. The amount of time spent during the school year on sewing projects ranged from none to nine weeks. The teachers interviewed spent an additional two to six weeks of classroom time in the study of other areas of clothing and textiles. The informants' knowledge of current educational trends appeared to come from area supervisors, inservice education, and their peers. None of the teachers interviewed indicated they read professional journals. The results of this research provide implications for inservice education content related to clothing and textiles for home economics teachers. / Master of Science

Garment construction is based on converting a fashion fabric into a wearable structure. Interfacings are attached to the fashion fabric in enclosed seams to provide support and stiffness for the seam area. Interfacings affect how the fashion fabric can bend. Therefore, it is the purpose of this study to determine the effect fusible and nonfusible nonwoven interfacings have on three bending properties of a lightweight suiting fabric. These three properties are flexural rigidity, crease recovery, and seam head size. A lightweight suiting fabric, a nonwoven fusible interfacing, and a nonwoven nonfusible interfacing were selected for the study. The flexural rigidity and crease recovery were measured for the component pieces of fashion fabric, nonfusible interfacing, and fusible interfacing and for the fusible and nonfusible composites. The flexural rigidity and crease recovery for the composites were recorded for the composite bent with the interfacing side up and with the interfacing side down. Seam head size was measured for enclosed seams with no interfacing (control), fusible interfacing, and nonfusible interfacing. Cross-sections of the enclosed seams were photographed against a ruler with hundredths of an inch increments. The seam head size was read from each of the photographic slides. Seven null hypotheses were tested. The hypotheses pertained to bending resistance and crease recovery of composites and their components, interfacing side up and down when bending and creasing, and fusible and nonfusible composites; and to seam head sizes of composites of the three selected fabrics. It was found that it did not make a difference which interfacing type is used (fusible or nonfusible) with respect to crease recovery and seam head size. It did make a difference which interfacing type was used with respect to flexural rigidity. The fusible composite was 2. 47 times stiffer than the nonfusible, however. / Master of Science

no abstract provided by author / Master of Science

Anisotropy of magnetic susceptibility (AMS) have been used with great success for determining the internal structure and fabrics of Jurassic and Cretaceous plutons of felsic-intermediate compositions in the White-Inyo Range of eastern California. However, application of the AMS techniques to the Mount Barcroft pluton, located in the northern White Mountains, has yielded anomalous scalar and directional AMS data indicative of unprecedented heterogeneity on the meter-kilometer scale. The 165 Ma Mount Barcroft pluton is primarily of granodiorite composition and was intruded into the Barcroft Structural Break, a northeast striking, steeply dipping structure that juxtaposes Mesozoic metavolcanic rocks to the north against Proterozoic-Paleozoic metasedimentary rocks to the south. Two oriented hand samples (A and B) were collected at each of 78 sites distributed on a 1 kilometer grid pattern across the 5 by 15 kilometer Mount Barcroft pluton and oriented cores were prepared from these hand samples for AMS analysis. Microstructure identification of single thin sections prepared for each sample site yielded primarily magmatic with minor solid-state structures. A highly heterogeneous distribution of scalar parameters (Km, P%, F%, L%, T) was documented both between sample sites and between the A and B cores at individual sites. The heterogeneity may be the result of complex mineral assemblages and the interaction between different magnetic mineral species ranging from single domain to pseudo-single domain to multidomain magnetite. More problematic are the directional parameters between A and B cores in orientation and fabric type (e.g. prolate and oblate susceptibility ellipsoids) occur which cannot be readily explained by a complex mineral assemblage. Different fabric types in A and B cores at individual sample sites could be the result of discrete, temporally unrelated, magma pulses of variable composition and viscosity. Heterogeneity of scalar and directional AMS parameters in the Mount Barcroft pluton, and its contrast with the homogeneous AMS signatures within similar age plutons to the south, may provide evidence for a previously unrecognized magma source beneath the northern White Mountains. / Master of Science