Ao se pensar em produto de vestuário de moda luxo, tem-se como premissa um alto valor agregado que expressa uma qualidade diferenciada e quase exclusiva. Surgem questionamentos sobre a manutenção da qualidade de um produto de moda luxo diante seus processos terceirizados de desenvolvimento e produção. O aumento da utilização da estratégia de terceirização de processos que não compõe o core business das empresas se fez presente no setor de moda. As confecções de moda com caráter de luxo no Brasil não fugiram à regra, e passaram a terceirizar algumas partes de seus processos de desenvolvimento e produção com o objetivo de aumentar sua capacidade produtiva. Partindo do exposto o presente estudo tem como objetivo estudar o produto de moda luxo e sua qualidade a partir da terceirização. Para tal foi estudado o luxo, seus conceitos e parâmetros, produto de moda luxo, qualidade deste produto, seu processo de desenvolvimento e produção, buscando identificar possíveis inadequações com base em um estudo de caso. Em relação aos procedimentos metodológicos, a presente pesquisa é caracterizada como exploratória, bibliográfica, documental e estudo de caso. O instrumento para coleta de dados foi observação de campo acompanhada de entrevista semiestruturada aplicada com indivíduos que tenham contato direto com o desenvolvimento e produção de produtos de vestuário de moda luxo, utilizando como estudo de caso uma marca de moda luxo renomada localizada na zona oeste da cidade. Percebe-se que há uma diferença entre os parâmetros do que é moda luxo para o consumidor nacional e internacional, e que de alguma forma a terceirização influencia na qualidade do produto final de vestuário de moda luxo no Brasil / When thinking of luxury garments, there is a premise of a high added value and near exclusivity. Questions arise as regards to sustaining the quality of a luxury fashion product with its outsourced processes of development and production. The increased use of an outsourcing strategy for processes that do not make up the core business of enterprises has been present in the fashion sector. The luxury fashion manufacturers in Brazil did not escape the rule, and began to outsource parts of their development and production processes in order to increase their production capacity. From the aforementioned, the present paper aims to study the luxury fashion product and its quality with outsourcing. To that end, luxury was studied, taking into consideration its concepts and parameters, the luxury fashion product, the quality of this product, its development and production processes, seeking to identify possible inadequacies based on a case study. Regarding the methodological procedures, this research is characterized as exploratory, bibliographical, documentary and as a case study. The instrument for data collection was a field observation along with a semi structured interview with individuals who are in direct contact with the development and production of luxury fashion apparel products, using as a case study a renowned luxury fashion brand located in the west borough of city. What has been gathered is that there is a difference between the parameters of what is luxury fashion for national and international consumers and that somehow, outsourcing influences the quality of the final luxury fashion apparel product in Brazil

Ao se pensar em produto de vestuário de moda luxo, tem-se como premissa um alto valor agregado que expressa uma qualidade diferenciada e quase exclusiva. Surgem questionamentos sobre a manutenção da qualidade de um produto de moda luxo diante seus processos terceirizados de desenvolvimento e produção. O aumento da utilização da estratégia de terceirização de processos que não compõe o core business das empresas se fez presente no setor de moda. As confecções de moda com caráter de luxo no Brasil não fugiram à regra, e passaram a terceirizar algumas partes de seus processos de desenvolvimento e produção com o objetivo de aumentar sua capacidade produtiva. Partindo do exposto o presente estudo tem como objetivo estudar o produto de moda luxo e sua qualidade a partir da terceirização. Para tal foi estudado o luxo, seus conceitos e parâmetros, produto de moda luxo, qualidade deste produto, seu processo de desenvolvimento e produção, buscando identificar possíveis inadequações com base em um estudo de caso. Em relação aos procedimentos metodológicos, a presente pesquisa é caracterizada como exploratória, bibliográfica, documental e estudo de caso. O instrumento para coleta de dados foi observação de campo acompanhada de entrevista semiestruturada aplicada com indivíduos que tenham contato direto com o desenvolvimento e produção de produtos de vestuário de moda luxo, utilizando como estudo de caso uma marca de moda luxo renomada localizada na zona oeste da cidade. Percebe-se que há uma diferença entre os parâmetros do que é moda luxo para o consumidor nacional e internacional, e que de alguma forma a terceirização influencia na qualidade do produto final de vestuário de moda luxo no Brasil / When thinking of luxury garments, there is a premise of a high added value and near exclusivity. Questions arise as regards to sustaining the quality of a luxury fashion product with its outsourced processes of development and production. The increased use of an outsourcing strategy for processes that do not make up the core business of enterprises has been present in the fashion sector. The luxury fashion manufacturers in Brazil did not escape the rule, and began to outsource parts of their development and production processes in order to increase their production capacity. From the aforementioned, the present paper aims to study the luxury fashion product and its quality with outsourcing. To that end, luxury was studied, taking into consideration its concepts and parameters, the luxury fashion product, the quality of this product, its development and production processes, seeking to identify possible inadequacies based on a case study. Regarding the methodological procedures, this research is characterized as exploratory, bibliographical, documentary and as a case study. The instrument for data collection was a field observation along with a semi structured interview with individuals who are in direct contact with the development and production of luxury fashion apparel products, using as a case study a renowned luxury fashion brand located in the west borough of city. What has been gathered is that there is a difference between the parameters of what is luxury fashion for national and international consumers and that somehow, outsourcing influences the quality of the final luxury fashion apparel product in Brazil

Objectif – Cette thèse vise à montrer dans quelle mesure les membres d'une organisation peuvent contrôler des situations de gestion complexes. Cette question de recherche est traitée en adoptant deux angles d'analyse. D'une part, nous considérons les liens entre contrôlabilité et complexité, sous l'angle formel. D'autre part, nous traitons cette question, sous l'angle informel.Méthodes – Pour aborder cette question formellement, nous testons la présence de chaos dans des ventes de biens à la mode avec deux méthodes : une estimation, robuste au bruit, de l'exposant maximum de Lyapunov et la dimension de corrélation. Puis, nous évaluons l'horizon de prévisibilité de ces ventes pour savoir dans quelle mesure les membres de l'organisation, chargés du budget, peuvent contrôler ces ventes présentant une « complexité restreinte » au sens de Morin. Pour traiter de cette question de manière informelle, une étude de cas a été réalisée pour montrer qu'il est possible de contrôler des systèmes complexes, présentant un fort couplage au sens de Perrow, en utilisant les solutions mises en avant par la théorie des organisations hautement fiables.Résultats – Que l'on aborde la question des liens entre contrôlabilité et complexité sous l'angle formel ou informel, il apparaît que les membres d'une organisation peuvent contrôler des situations de gestion complexes, de façon décentralisée, dans la mesure où ils possèdent une marge de manœuvre. / Objective – This PhD thesis aims at showing to what extent the members of an organization can control complex management situations. This research question was addressed by adopting two perspectives. We mathematically considered the link between complexity and controllability in the one hand. On the other, weddressed this issue by adopting organizational perspectives.Methods – To address mathematically this matter, the presence of chaos was tested, in some sales of fashion goods, by two methods: an estimation of Lyapunov exponent which is robust to noise and correlation dimension. Then, predictability horizon was estimated in order to know to what extent the members of an organization who set the budget can control these “complex” sales, in Morin's restricted sense. In order to informally deal with this issue, a case study was realized to show that it is possible for the members of an organization to control complex and tight coupled systems, in Perrow's sense, by using the guidelines of the High Reliability Theory.Results – Whatever perspective we take, it appears that the members of an organization can control complex management situations in a decentralized way to the extent that they have a certain amount of latitude.

The thesis "Fashion, Originality and Style: an Ethnographic Probe into a Fashion Atelier" deals with the phenomenon of fashion from the perspective of anthropology and sociology. It's based on the key theoretical approaches that view fashion as a marker of class and competition of wealth, but also as an expression of one's individuality. The thesis also pays attention to the connections between fashion and cultural environment, and the analysis of fashion in the contexts of material culture studies and the shifting perception of the fashion designer and his work. The work on this thesis also included a field research in the fashion atelier of Ivana Follová, a Czech fashion designer. In the course of several months, the daily operations of the atelier were observed together with the influences affecting the production of fashion goods, and the making of designs. Attention was also paid to the regular customers who frequent the fashion atelier and use its services. The research combined collecting data from participant observations and half-structured interviews. The aim of the study was to find out what principles the fashion industry is based on with a special focus on tailor-made fashion, but also to describe the customers of the atelier and their motives for the need of fashion products.

Background. Previous research on the investigation of brand personality (BP) can be found to use the personification metaphor of brands through celebrities, occupations and animals. Brand image research aims to discover the human characteristics attached to a brand. In this regard, the author suggests that as music can tell much of the personality of a person, then it would be possible to know the personality of a brand through music. The rationale behind is that music elicits “extramusical” information, such as emotions, values, dress codes and stereotypes of people; in relation to musical-genres. Purpose. This research aims to explore how music can help to produce brand knowledge. In particular how the extramusical information conveyed by musical-genres can be used as language to talk about the personality of a brand. Methodology. The empirical research was developed within an Interpretive research paradigm to learn from the perspective of consumers of hip-hop music in Sweden, how brand knowledge can be obtained from music as cognitive schema (CS). The data was gathered using a mixed-method research design. Two different projective techniques were employed in group sessions. On one session (N=11), visual collages were used to visually represent the brands using images of musicians and their description with brand personality traits. The second session (N=12) consisted of an associative task using music, followed by the application of the brand personality scale. The interpretation and analysis of findings was done through the triangulation of the methods’ data. Conclusions. The use of music genres as CS to produce brand knowledge can provide insightful information on the lifestyle and type of users that buy, consume or wear the brand. Extramusical information helps understand characteristics of BP through the lifestyle and profile of the musician or music-fan that was associated with the brand. In particular, brand knowledge can be gained in terms of demographic and psychographic characteristics associated to the brand. However, several theoretical implications for further research were identified in order to consolidate the BP/consumer/music relationship.