Cosméticos verdes são aqueles que alegam ser desenvolvidos de acordo com princípios ecológicos, sendo geralmente associados às características natural, orgânica e/ou vegana. Os sistemas de certificação desses produtos visam assegurar o cumprimento de diretrizes préestabelecidas e comunicar o consumidor sobre os atributos dos produtos. Considerando a importância da certificação para a consolidação e o fortalecimento desse mercado, o objetivo do presente trabalho foi analisar a percepção de empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes e consumidores a respeito da certificação natural, orgânica e vegana sob a perspectiva da Nova Economia Institucional. Para isso, foi empregada a triangulação metodológica, baseada em diversas abordagens de pesquisa, incluindo a realização de entrevistas semiestruturadas com representantes de empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes certificadas e a aplicação de questionários de elaboração própria em amostra não-probabilística de 416 consumidores de cosméticos via Facebook. Os dados das entrevistas foram submetidos à análise de conteúdo e os questionários foram analisados por meio de estatística descritiva, ambos interpretados à luz da Nova Economia Institucional. Verificou-se que as empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes atribuem à certificação um importante papel na comunicação sobre apelos ecológicos aos consumidores, no alinhamento de princípios com fornecedores, atuando como mecanismos de execução contratual e na obtenção de vantagens de mercado. As principais desvantagens relatadas pelas empresas produtoras foram os custos de transação decorrentes da obtenção e manutenção da certificação e possíveis dificuldades de comunicação com os consumidores. Em relação aos consumidores, predominaram na amostra usuários de cosméticos verdes. Porém, de modo geral, os consumidores possuem baixo nível de conhecimento e baixo grau de confiança nas principais certificações de cosméticos naturais, orgânicos e veganos atuantes no Brasil, além de perceberem tais certificações como pouco rigorosas. A disposição dos consumidores para pagar por cosméticos certificados foi estimada em 10 a 50% do preço dos produtos não certificados. A disposição para pagar está correlacionada com o nível de conhecimento e o grau de confiança dos consumidores nas certificações. Considerando os resultados do estudo, foram sugeridas estratégias para minimizar as desvantagens relacionadas aos custos de transação e às dificuldades de comunicação das certificações com os consumidores e ampliar suas vantagens, principalmente no que se refere à redução de assimetrias de informação e à obtenção de vantagens de mercado, de modo a contribuir para a consolidação e expansão do crescente mercado desses produtos / Green cosmetics are those that claim to be developed according to ecological principles, and are generally associated with natural, organic and/or vegan characteristics. Certification systems for these products aim to ensure compliance with pre-established guidelines and communicate the consumer about the attributes of the products. Considering the importance of certification for the consolidation and strengthening of this market, it is necessary to analyze the role of certification systems, both for producers and consumers. Thus, this work aims at analyzing the perception of producers of green cosmetics and consumers regarding natural, organic and vegan certification from the perspective of the New Institutional Economy. In order to do that, we used methodological triangulation, based on multiple research approaches, including the collection of primary data through semi-structured interviews with representatives of certified producers of green cosmetics and the application of closed questionnaires in nonprobabilistic sample of cosmetic consumers via Facebook. The information obtained from the interviews were submitted to content analysis, while the results of the questionnaires were analyzed by means of descriptive statistics. Both results were interpreted in the context of the New Institutional Economics. It was found that green cosmetic companies attribute to certification an important role in communicating ecological appeals to consumers, in aligning principles with suppliers, acting as contractual enforcement mechanisms and in obtaining market advantages. The main disadvantages reported by the companies were the transaction costs from obtaining and maintaining certification and possible communication difficulties with consumers. Regarding the questionnaires applied to consumers, the sample was predominantly composed of users of green cosmetics. However, it was found that consumers, in general, have a low level of knowledge and a low degree of confidence in the main certifications of natural, organic and vegan cosmetics in Brazil. Consumers also perceive such certifications as not very strict. The willingness of consumers to pay for certified cosmetics has been estimated at 10 to 50% of the price of non-certified products. The willingness to pay is correlated with the level of knowledge and the degree of consumer confidence in the certifications. Based on the results of the study, we suggested strategies to minimize the disadvantages of certification systems related to transaction costs and the difficulties of communication and to extend their advantages, especially regarding the reduction of information asymmetries and the market advantages, aiming at contributing to the consolidation and expansion of the growing market of these products

The current green marketing industry is growing due to increasing consumer demand in combination with current environmental issues. Even so a common definition of the term green does not exist which creates both company and consumer confusion. Generally the expression is perceived by consumers to only describe environmentally friendly products but it is also further applied to different activities such as production, distribution and retailing. Due to the consumer lack of knowledge companies are having continuous difficulties satisfying the consumer’s changing needs and simultaneously protecting the environment. Companies are hoping to create awareness regarding environmental issues with the use of green marketing; however some companies are claiming to be green as a concealed marketing ploy, known as greenwashing.This study’s purpose aims to reveal and analyze whether there are gaps of knowledge in the topic green products and predominantly green cosmetics between Swedish green consumers and green companies. Lush Cosmetics has been chosen as a case company for this dissertations explorative kind and the empirical findings have been collected by a semi-structured interview with a product & people developer at the company. Answers from green consumers have been retrieved through focus group meetings with suitable respondents.Analysis of the empirical information was subsequently completed through the study’s theoretical framework to find what types of dissents exist between the two parts and why these have been generated. Results of the analysis showed that confusion as well as different opinions is present between the two parts. The knowledge gaps are prominent between the company and the consumers in the subjects of understanding marketing terms, price, ingredients and efficiency. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Cosméticos verdes são aqueles que alegam ser desenvolvidos de acordo com princípios ecológicos, sendo geralmente associados às características natural, orgânica e/ou vegana. Os sistemas de certificação desses produtos visam assegurar o cumprimento de diretrizes préestabelecidas e comunicar o consumidor sobre os atributos dos produtos. Considerando a importância da certificação para a consolidação e o fortalecimento desse mercado, o objetivo do presente trabalho foi analisar a percepção de empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes e consumidores a respeito da certificação natural, orgânica e vegana sob a perspectiva da Nova Economia Institucional. Para isso, foi empregada a triangulação metodológica, baseada em diversas abordagens de pesquisa, incluindo a realização de entrevistas semiestruturadas com representantes de empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes certificadas e a aplicação de questionários de elaboração própria em amostra não-probabilística de 416 consumidores de cosméticos via Facebook. Os dados das entrevistas foram submetidos à análise de conteúdo e os questionários foram analisados por meio de estatística descritiva, ambos interpretados à luz da Nova Economia Institucional. Verificou-se que as empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes atribuem à certificação um importante papel na comunicação sobre apelos ecológicos aos consumidores, no alinhamento de princípios com fornecedores, atuando como mecanismos de execução contratual e na obtenção de vantagens de mercado. As principais desvantagens relatadas pelas empresas produtoras foram os custos de transação decorrentes da obtenção e manutenção da certificação e possíveis dificuldades de comunicação com os consumidores. Em relação aos consumidores, predominaram na amostra usuários de cosméticos verdes. Porém, de modo geral, os consumidores possuem baixo nível de conhecimento e baixo grau de confiança nas principais certificações de cosméticos naturais, orgânicos e veganos atuantes no Brasil, além de perceberem tais certificações como pouco rigorosas. A disposição dos consumidores para pagar por cosméticos certificados foi estimada em 10 a 50% do preço dos produtos não certificados. A disposição para pagar está correlacionada com o nível de conhecimento e o grau de confiança dos consumidores nas certificações. Considerando os resultados do estudo, foram sugeridas estratégias para minimizar as desvantagens relacionadas aos custos de transação e às dificuldades de comunicação das certificações com os consumidores e ampliar suas vantagens, principalmente no que se refere à redução de assimetrias de informação e à obtenção de vantagens de mercado, de modo a contribuir para a consolidação e expansão do crescente mercado desses produtos / Green cosmetics are those that claim to be developed according to ecological principles, and are generally associated with natural, organic and/or vegan characteristics. Certification systems for these products aim to ensure compliance with pre-established guidelines and communicate the consumer about the attributes of the products. Considering the importance of certification for the consolidation and strengthening of this market, it is necessary to analyze the role of certification systems, both for producers and consumers. Thus, this work aims at analyzing the perception of producers of green cosmetics and consumers regarding natural, organic and vegan certification from the perspective of the New Institutional Economy. In order to do that, we used methodological triangulation, based on multiple research approaches, including the collection of primary data through semi-structured interviews with representatives of certified producers of green cosmetics and the application of closed questionnaires in nonprobabilistic sample of cosmetic consumers via Facebook. The information obtained from the interviews were submitted to content analysis, while the results of the questionnaires were analyzed by means of descriptive statistics. Both results were interpreted in the context of the New Institutional Economics. It was found that green cosmetic companies attribute to certification an important role in communicating ecological appeals to consumers, in aligning principles with suppliers, acting as contractual enforcement mechanisms and in obtaining market advantages. The main disadvantages reported by the companies were the transaction costs from obtaining and maintaining certification and possible communication difficulties with consumers. Regarding the questionnaires applied to consumers, the sample was predominantly composed of users of green cosmetics. However, it was found that consumers, in general, have a low level of knowledge and a low degree of confidence in the main certifications of natural, organic and vegan cosmetics in Brazil. Consumers also perceive such certifications as not very strict. The willingness of consumers to pay for certified cosmetics has been estimated at 10 to 50% of the price of non-certified products. The willingness to pay is correlated with the level of knowledge and the degree of consumer confidence in the certifications. Based on the results of the study, we suggested strategies to minimize the disadvantages of certification systems related to transaction costs and the difficulties of communication and to extend their advantages, especially regarding the reduction of information asymmetries and the market advantages, aiming at contributing to the consolidation and expansion of the growing market of these products