Donald Brothers of Dundee were factory weavers who designed and manufactured rough woven textures as furnishing fabric between 1896-1983. This thesis examines Donald Brothers' emergence as makers of decorative cloth within an artistic framework that established the aesthetic for texture, and by close examination of their sampled fabrics sheds light on the design and meaning of woven texture for the Arts & Crafts interior between 1896-1914. Chapter 1 examines the basic unpublished documentation of the Donald businesses which establishes that the firm's historical involvement in Dundee's coarse cloth trade conditioned their emergence as makers of decorative texture in 1896. The aesthetic context that precipitated this emergence is considered in chapters 2, 3 and 4, through a study of contemporary movements in painting, architecture and hand-crafted textiles. The appreciation for texture as an object of design in Britain and America is explained. Chapter 5 provides an analysis of the industrial basis and practicalities of running Donald Brothers between 1896-1914. Examination of the firm's records builds up a profile of the men who directed the firm and the methods by which they shaped its design and marketing policy. Chapters 6-9 form the heart of the thesis. They examine in detail the unique sample book records to establish the character of Donald Brothers' materials, manufactured between 1896-1914. Chapter 6 is devoted to a study of their plain and printed jute canvases used for wallcoverings. Chapter 7 examines their range in plain and printed linens and their uses, while chapter 8 explores in detail developments in their figured weaves. Chapter 9 focuses on the originality of the rougher textures developed in jute canvas and linen between 1906-1914. The relationship of these factory woven fabrics to the fashionable hand-woven fabrics of the Arts & Crafts Movement is defined. Chapter 10 examines the unpublished business records of Gustav Stickley in order to establish the importance of Donald Brothers' materials to the Craftsman aesthetic. The contribution their fabrics made within the Craftsman, Arts & Crafts home is defined. In conclusion it is claimed that Donald Brothers' early textures were Arts & Crafts in design and manufacture and quintessential Arts & Crafts fabrics for use within the American Craftsman interior in the early twentieth century.

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Texte remanié de: Th. Ph. D.--Political science--University of Chicago. / Notes bibliogr. Glossaire. Bibliogr. p. 183-194. Index.

<p> This study is an empirical analysis of the international market for raw jute and jute manufactures. The object of the study is to build and estimate an annual simultaneous equation model of the world jute market for the post-Second World War years. The chief purpose of the model is to determine the most important dynamic aspects of this market and, in particular, the causes of the high variability of the world jute prices.</p> <p> The supply side of the model involves the specification and estimation of dynamic equations relating to the annual production of both raw jute and jute manufactures. In the case of raw jute production, equations are estimated for three major producing nations and for the "Rest-of-the-World"; in the case of jute manufactures, there are equations for six major producing nations as well as for a "Rest-of-the-World" sector. In general, jute farmers and the producers of jute manufactures are found to be responsive to economic incentives.</p> <p> The demand side of the model is constructed by specifying and estimating equations explaining the annual net consumption demand of jute manufactures for Bangladesh and India. In the case of other five countries/regions, first, the total current consumption demand for jute manufactures and synthetic substitutes are estimated together and, then, the relative shares of the two are determined. In contrast to the fairly uniform results obtained for the jute production equations, the effects of change in one of the explanatory variables on jute consumption are found to vary widely for the countries studied.</p> <p> Equations explaining end-of-the-year stocks of both raw jute and jute manufactures in the major producing countries have been specified and estimated. Finally, the price equations, explaining the formation of world prices of raw jute and jute manufactures and their relationship with the domestic prices in the major producing countries, have been estimated to complete the empirical model.</p> <p> The final model contains thirty-nine stochastic equations and twenty-five identities, and is decomposed into two blocks: a recursive block, which is estimated by ordinary least squares, and a simultaneous block, which is estimated by two-stage least squares. The study then proceeds to examine the qualitative characteristics of the model by conducting simulation experiments over part of the period of estimation. The model is further tested to explore some interesting hypothetical forms of international jute agreements. Moreover, simulations over future periods are also investigated in order to obtain conditional forecasts and to explore further some of the hypothetical international agreements. In general during the sample period, the basic simulation traces quite satisfactorily, on both the aggregate and the disaggregate level, the trajectories of the important endogenous variable in the model. The simulations over the 1974-1990 period imply practically a stagnation of the position with relatively small increases in world production, consumption, and prices. Moreover, the present trend of decreasing the consumption of jute manufactures in the developed countries is expected to continue.</p> <p> Finally, in respect to possible institution of various international agreements to benefit (in part, at least) the raw jute producers, it has been found that, in most cases, these programs will have very limited benefits (although both the producers and the consumers might benefit from increased price stability) due to high and increasing elasticity of substitution between jute and the synthetic substitutes</p> / Thesis / Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)

Natural fiber-reinforced composites are now finding extensive uses in various fields from household articles to automobiles. These composites can score high compared to common synthetic fiber-based composites, notably glass fiber-reinforced composites, in areas such as occupational safety and health, and impact on environment. The current research work is motivated by the need for exploring jute fibers as replacement for glass fibers for various engineering design applications including more demanding impact protection applications as in automotive body structures. In the current work, detailed mechanical characterization of jute-polyester (JP) composite laminates till failure has been carried out for tensile, compressive and flexural loads by varying volume fraction of jute fibers. The effect of fiber volume fraction on mechanical properties is shown. Because of the potency of closed thin-walled components as structural energy-absorbers, a comprehensive experimental study has been performed, for the first time, comparing the behaviors of various geometric sections of JP and glass-polyester (GP) composite tubes under axial quasi-static and low velocity impact loading. Additionally, for jute-reinforced plastic panels to be feasible solutions for applications such as automotive interior trim panels, laminates made of such materials should have adequate perforation resistance. Thus, a detailed comparative study has been carried out for assessing the performance of JP laminates vis-a-vis GP plates under low velocity impact perforation conditions. As high-end product design is heavily driven by CAE (Computer-Aided Engineering), the current research work has also focused on the challenging task of developing reliable modeling procedures for explicit finite element analysis using LS-DYNA for predicting load-displacement responses and failures of JP composites under quasi-static and impact loading conditions. In order to extend the applications of JP composites to structurally demanding applications, hybrid laminates made of jute-steel composites and jute with nanoclay-reinforced polyester have been investigated and the considerable enhancement of mechanical properties due to hybridization is shown. Furthermore, a comprehensive study has been conducted on the behavior of JP laminates for varying degrees of moisture content until saturation, and the efficacy of hybrid laminates in this context has been shown.

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Cette thèse a été réalisée au sein du LERMAB et du CETELOR et se consacre à la mise au point de matériaux composites biosourcés à plus de 98%. Des fibres libériennes de type lin, chanvre, kénaf et jute ont ainsi été sélectionnées, caractérisées chimiquement et physiquement. Les renforts en nontissés sont définis ici comme une superposition de voiles (ou nappes de fibres) cohésifs produits par cardage pneumatique et dont la consolidation est réalisée par aiguilletage. Les voies que nous avons choisies au cours de ce travail nous ont permis d'appréhender et de mettre en évidence l'importance de la qualité des fibres sur les propriétés mécaniques et structurales des matériaux développés. Les renforts réalisés dans un premier temps dans une gamme de poids de 200 à 800 g/m² en simple, double ou triple épaisseurs ont ensuite été optimisés dans le but de préserver les propriétés mécaniques des fibres et de permettre une bonne accessibilité de la résine d'imprégnation. Pour limiter les facteurs de complications, les paramètres process ont été limités pour toutes les fibres et composites. Les fibres ont été mises en oeuvre seules ou en mélanges, et imprégnées de matrice à base de résine naturelle tannin de mimosa et d'hexamine (comme durcisseur) ou de résine synthétique de type époxy. Des biocomposites à taux de fibres en masse de plus de 50% et de densité entre 0,9 et 1,2 ont été obtenus. Les modules d'élasticité atteignent 6 GPa en flexion et en traction. Pour les contraintes, les moyennes atteignent 42 MPa et 75MPa respectivement en traction et en flexion / This thesis was carried out within the LERMAB and the CETELOR and about the development of more than 98% biobased composites materials. Bast fibre type flax, hemp, kenaf and jute were selected, characterized chemically and physically. Nonwovens reinforcements are defined here as a superposition of cohesive webs products by pneumatic carding and consolidation by needling. The process we have chosen during this work allowed us to understand and to highlight the importance of the quality of the fibers on the mechanical and structural properties of the materials developed. Reinforcements made initially in a weight range from 200 to 800 g/m² in single, double or triple thicknesses have then been optimized to preserve the mechanical properties of the fibers and allow good accessibility of the impregnating resin. To limit the factors of complications, the process parameters have been limited for all fibers and composites. Fibers have been used singly or in mixtures, and impregnated by a matrix of natural tannin from mimosa and hexamine (as a hardener) or by synthetic resin of epoxy. Biocomposites with a rate of fibre mass over 50%, and density between 0.9 and 1.2 were obtained. Elasticity Modulus reach 6 GPa flexural and tensile. For strenght, averages reach 42 MPa and 75MPa respectively in tensile and bending

Este trabalho pretende apresentar a situação dos imigrantes japoneses e seus descendentes na região amazônica, durante a década de 50, particularmente no Estado do pará, onde houve maiores reflexos (positivos e negativos) de sua presença. Pretende-se assim, iniciar um debate sobre o impacto desses nikkeys tanto na região quanto no Brasil como um todo, e entender a profundidade destas influências nos âmbitos econômicos, políticos e sociais. / This article intends to present the situation of Japanese immigrants and their descendants in the Amazon region during the 1950s, particularly in the states of Amazonas and Pará, where there were more positive and negative effects of their presence. The aim is to begin a debate about the impact of these nikkeys in the region as well as in Brazil as a whole, and to understand the depth of these influences in the economic, political and social spheres.

The increased concern of protection of nature in recent days creates more opportunity and prospects in the natural fibre sector. Jute is a natural fibre. Jute plants mostly grow in the Ganges delta region comprises Bangladesh and India. Bangladesh produces the finest quality of jute in the world. It contributed robustly in the economy of Bangladesh earlier, therefore it was considered as the ‘golden fibre’ of Bangladesh. But with the increased use of synthetic fibre, jute industry lost its glory. Therefore, provoked by the problems of decreased use of jute and the current environmental concern, this research has been conducted. The paper aims to find out the environmental benefits of jute as a natural fibre. Along with that, the economic benefits from the jute industry and value-added diversified products are also examined. To narrow down this study, Bangladesh has been chosen to find out the economic prospects and social factors there, considering Bangladesh is the second largest producer of jute and its emerging economic condition. However, the main goal of this study is to consider the environmental, economic and social factors of jute as a whole and jute’s contribution to sustainable development. To carry out the study, research questions has been set up according to the aim of the study. Literature review has been chosen as a primary method. Interviews have been taken from important key personnel associated with jute sectors playing important role in the research. Qualitative method has been chosen for data analysis. From the literature review and interview outcomes, the results have been formulated. It is found in the study that jute has lots of contribution in the environment. It purifies air, preserves forest, produces natural fertilization, increases fertility of the soil, produces biogas or renewable energy, holds strong biological efficiency and so on. Those benefits are found both in the scientific literatures and also from interviews. Increased demand of natural fibres creates market opportunity of jute. Along with this, the new application with enhanced value make jute products more attractive and economically worthy. Especially in the geotextile, automobile, infra structure and packaging sectors, there is a bright future prospects of jute. The enhanced economic opportunity along with environmental benefits, the jute industry will extend that will create more employment opportunity. Already, in Bangladesh, almost twenty-five million people are associated directly and indirectly with jute industry. Therefore, there is a social influence of jute to the people associated with it. Farmer’s social sustainability depends on the successful jute cultivation. The local entrepreneurs are also getting social access by making themselves independent and confident. Thereby, the relations among these three parts of sustainability-environment, economy and society in relation to jute are attempted to find out through this study.

Made available in DSpace on 2015-04-22T22:08:48Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 igor roberto.pdf: 4402324 bytes, checksum: 90ab88c1b2930e13110899ce104c62fc (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013-03-01 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The work in hand deals with the experimental investigation of the mechanical, physical and chemical behavior of jute and malva fibers as well as the cementitious composites reinforced by those fibers. The composites were produced with a self-consolidating matrix free of ca1cium hydroxide. Long and unidirectional aligned fibers distributed in five layers were used as reinforcement. This arrangement resulted in a reinforcement ratio of 8%. The fibers were investigated by chemical analysis, thermogravimetry, microstructural observation and direct tensile tests. Direct tension, four point bending tests and microstructural observation were the techniques used to characterize the composites. The physical and mechanical results indicated that both fibers have properties adequate for being used as reinforcement in high performance composites. The newly developed fiber reinforced composites presented promising mechanical properties towards the development of semi-structural and structural elements. The composites reinforced with malva fibers presented mechanical resistance higher than those reinforced withjute (around 20% in the flexural and 10 % in the tensile strength). Both composites presented a multiple cracking behavior under bending and tensile loads. / No presente estudo foi realizado a investigação experimental das propriedades físico-mecânicas e também químicas das fibras de juta e malva assim como dos compósitos reforçados com as respectivas fibras vegetais. Em relação aos compósitos, estes foram produzidos com uma matriz auto-adensável e livre de hidróxido de cálcio. Os compósitos foram produzidos com o teor de 8% de fibras longas, alinhadas unidirecionalmente e distribuidas em 5 camadas, formando como produto final um compósito em formato de placas. Os principais ensaios utilizados para a caracterização das fibras foram análise química, termogravimetria, análise microestrutural e tração direta, enquanto para os compósitos foram análise microestrutural, tração direta e flexão em quatro pontos. Os ensaios físico-mecânicos apresentaram, tanto nas fibras de malva como nas fibras de juta, a possibilidade da aplicação destas fibras em compósitos de alta resistência. Os compósitos reforçados com ambas as fibras, apresentaram propriedades mecânicas promissoras no desenvolvimento de peças semi-estruturais e estruturais. Os compósitos reforçados com fibras de malva apresentaram resistência superior aos dos compósitos reforçados com fibras de juta (cerca de 20% na tração à flexão e 10% na tração direta). Ambos os compósitos apresentaram um comportamento de multipla fissuração tanto na flexão como na tração.