vii, 97 leaves : ill., maps ; 28 cm Notes Typescript Thesis (M.S.)--University of Oregon, 1985 Includes vita and abstract Bibliography: leaves 92-97 Another copy on microfilm is located in Archives

Esta tese tem como objetivo principal a proposição de solução para o problema do encaixe de moldes em tecidos listrados da indústria do vestuário. Os moldes são peças com formato irregular que devem ser dispostos sobre a matéria-prima, neste caso o tecido, para a etapa posterior de corte. No problema específico do encaixe em tecidos listrados, o local em que os moldes são posicionados no tecido deve garantir que, após a confecção da peça, as listras apresentem continuidade. Assim, a fundamentação teórica do trabalho abrange temas relacionados à moda e ao design do vestuário, como os tipos e padronagens de tecidos listrados, e as possibilidades de rotação e colocação dos moldes sobre tecidos listrados. Na fundamentação teórica também são abordados temas da pesquisa em otimização combinatória como: características dos problemas bidimensionais de corte e encaixe e algoritmos utilizados por diversos autores para solucionar o problema. Ainda na parte final da fundamentação teórica são descritos o método Cadeia de Markov Monte Carlo e o algoritmo de Metropolis-Hastings. Com base na pesquisa bibliográfica, foram propostos dois algoritmos distintos para lidar com o problema de encaixe de moldes em tecidos listrados: algoritmo com pré-processamento e algoritmo de busca do melhor encaixe utilizando o algoritmo de Metropolis-Hastings. Ambos foram implementados no software Riscare Listrado, que é uma continuidade do software Riscare para tecidos lisos desenvolvido em Alves (2010). Para testar o desempenho dos dois algoritmos foram utilizados seis problemas benchmarks da literatura e proposto um novo problema denominado de camisa masculina. Os problemas benchmarks da literatura foram propostos para matéria-prima lisa e o problema camisa masculina especificamente para tecidos listrados. Entre os dois algoritmos desenvolvidos, o algoritmo de busca do melhor encaixe apresentou resultados com melhores eficiências de utilização do tecido para todos os problemas propostos. Quando comparado aos melhores resultados publicados na literatura para matéria-prima lisa, o algoritmo de busca do melhor encaixe apresentou encaixes com eficiências inferiores, porém com resultados superiores ao recomendado pela literatura específica da área de moda para tecidos estampados. / This thesis proposes the solution for the packing problem of patterns on striped fabric in clothing industry. The patterns are pieces with irregular form that should be placed on raw material which is, in this case, the fabric. This fabric is cut after packing. In the specific problem of packing on striped fabric, the position that patterns are put in the fabric should ensure that, after the clothing sewing, the stripes should present continuity. Thus, the theoretical foundation of this project includes subjects about fashion and clothing design, such as types and rapports of striped fabric, and the possibilities of rotation and the correct place to put the patterns on striped fabric. In the theoretical foundation, there are also subjects about research in combinatorial optimization as: characteristics about bi-dimensional packing and cutting problems and algorithms used for several authors to solve the problem. In addition, the Markov Chain Monte Carlo method and the Metropolis-Hastings algorithm are described at end of theoretical foundation. Based on the bibliographic research, two different algorithms for the packing problem with striped fabric are proposed: algorithm with pre-processing step and algorithm of searching the best packing using the Metropolis-Hastings algorithm. Both algorithms are implemented in the Striped Riscare software, which is a continuity of Riscare software for clear fabrics developed in the Masters degree of the author. Both algorithms performances are tested with six literature benchmark problems and a new problem called “male shirt” is proposed here. The benchmark problems of literature were iniatially proposed for clear raw material and the male shirt problem, specifically for striped fabrics. Between the two developed algorithms, the algorithm of searching the best packing has shown better results with better efficiencies of the fabric usage for all the problems tested. When compared to the best results published in the literature for clear raw material, the algorithm of searching the best packing has shown packings with lower efficiencies. However, it showed results higher than recommended for the specific literature of fashion design for patterned fabrics.

Esta tese tem como objetivo principal a proposição de solução para o problema do encaixe de moldes em tecidos listrados da indústria do vestuário. Os moldes são peças com formato irregular que devem ser dispostos sobre a matéria-prima, neste caso o tecido, para a etapa posterior de corte. No problema específico do encaixe em tecidos listrados, o local em que os moldes são posicionados no tecido deve garantir que, após a confecção da peça, as listras apresentem continuidade. Assim, a fundamentação teórica do trabalho abrange temas relacionados à moda e ao design do vestuário, como os tipos e padronagens de tecidos listrados, e as possibilidades de rotação e colocação dos moldes sobre tecidos listrados. Na fundamentação teórica também são abordados temas da pesquisa em otimização combinatória como: características dos problemas bidimensionais de corte e encaixe e algoritmos utilizados por diversos autores para solucionar o problema. Ainda na parte final da fundamentação teórica são descritos o método Cadeia de Markov Monte Carlo e o algoritmo de Metropolis-Hastings. Com base na pesquisa bibliográfica, foram propostos dois algoritmos distintos para lidar com o problema de encaixe de moldes em tecidos listrados: algoritmo com pré-processamento e algoritmo de busca do melhor encaixe utilizando o algoritmo de Metropolis-Hastings. Ambos foram implementados no software Riscare Listrado, que é uma continuidade do software Riscare para tecidos lisos desenvolvido em Alves (2010). Para testar o desempenho dos dois algoritmos foram utilizados seis problemas benchmarks da literatura e proposto um novo problema denominado de camisa masculina. Os problemas benchmarks da literatura foram propostos para matéria-prima lisa e o problema camisa masculina especificamente para tecidos listrados. Entre os dois algoritmos desenvolvidos, o algoritmo de busca do melhor encaixe apresentou resultados com melhores eficiências de utilização do tecido para todos os problemas propostos. Quando comparado aos melhores resultados publicados na literatura para matéria-prima lisa, o algoritmo de busca do melhor encaixe apresentou encaixes com eficiências inferiores, porém com resultados superiores ao recomendado pela literatura específica da área de moda para tecidos estampados. / This thesis proposes the solution for the packing problem of patterns on striped fabric in clothing industry. The patterns are pieces with irregular form that should be placed on raw material which is, in this case, the fabric. This fabric is cut after packing. In the specific problem of packing on striped fabric, the position that patterns are put in the fabric should ensure that, after the clothing sewing, the stripes should present continuity. Thus, the theoretical foundation of this project includes subjects about fashion and clothing design, such as types and rapports of striped fabric, and the possibilities of rotation and the correct place to put the patterns on striped fabric. In the theoretical foundation, there are also subjects about research in combinatorial optimization as: characteristics about bi-dimensional packing and cutting problems and algorithms used for several authors to solve the problem. In addition, the Markov Chain Monte Carlo method and the Metropolis-Hastings algorithm are described at end of theoretical foundation. Based on the bibliographic research, two different algorithms for the packing problem with striped fabric are proposed: algorithm with pre-processing step and algorithm of searching the best packing using the Metropolis-Hastings algorithm. Both algorithms are implemented in the Striped Riscare software, which is a continuity of Riscare software for clear fabrics developed in the Masters degree of the author. Both algorithms performances are tested with six literature benchmark problems and a new problem called “male shirt” is proposed here. The benchmark problems of literature were iniatially proposed for clear raw material and the male shirt problem, specifically for striped fabrics. Between the two developed algorithms, the algorithm of searching the best packing has shown better results with better efficiencies of the fabric usage for all the problems tested. When compared to the best results published in the literature for clear raw material, the algorithm of searching the best packing has shown packings with lower efficiencies. However, it showed results higher than recommended for the specific literature of fashion design for patterned fabrics.

Orientadores: Daniela Zanchet, Regina Buffon / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Química / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-25T08:37:31Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Aragao_IsaiasBarbosa_M.pdf: 4247291 bytes, checksum: 09937fc60abf375cebc0a59dc22ae39a (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014 / Resumo: Nanopartículas (NPs) e os ligantes em sua superfície vêm ganhando espaço como meio suporte devido a suas propriedades que aliam o comportamento da catálise homogênea com a heterogênea. Em longo prazo, imagina-se que o controle do ambiente local de espécies ancoradas na superfície destas NPs possa mimetizar o sítio catalítico de enzimas. Visando explorar a influência do ambiente local, foi avaliado o desempenho do catalisador de Grubbs de primeira geração em duas condições: encapsulado em matriz de sílica e na presença de NPs de ouro (NPs-Au). Apesar das reações de encapsulamento pelo método sol-gel serem rotas bastante exploradas, os resultados não foram encorajadores devido à desativação do complexo de rutênio nas condições de formação do gel, tanto pela via hidrolítica quanto não-hidrolítica. Com relação às NPs-Au, elas foram sintetizadas com misturas de ligantes (1-octanotiol e ácido 3-mercaptopropiônico), mostrando separação de fases dos ligantes, com a formação de domínios (raias). Nos estudos com catalisador de Grubbs em reações de metátese (autometátese do 1-hexeno e polimerização por abertura de anel do 1,5-ciclooctadieno), tanto a presença das NPs-Au como a de tiol livre tiveram influência negativa, levando a sua desativação prematura. Na presença de NPs-Au, houve queda da atividade, chegando a conversões nulas para razões mássicas maiores de que 1 mg de ouro/10 mg de catalisador, estando possivelmente associado à complexação das mercaptanas das NPs-Au com o complexo de rutênio. Buscando viabilizar o ancoramento do catalisador nas NPs-Au, sintetizou-se um ligante carbeno NHC com a funcionalização do esqueleto carbônico posterior do anel com um grupamento alil, que representa a primeira etapa para introdução de grupos funcionais e ancoramento em NPs / Abstract: The use of nanoparticles (NPs) and their protecting layer as support in catalysis start to be exploited, due to their unique characteristics at the interface of homogeneous and heterogeneous catalysts. At long term, the tuning of the local environment of catalytic species anchored on the surface of NPs may be a way to mimic the active site of enzymes. Aiming to explore the influence of the local environment, we evaluated the activity of the first generation Grubbs catalyst under two conditions: encapsulating it in a silica matrix and in the presence of gold NPs (NPs-Au). Although the heterogenization via the sol-gel method is a well-known and well-explored route, we could not obtain good results due to catalyst deactivation under gel formation in both hydrolytic and non-hydrolytic (nonaqueous) conditions. Considering the NPs-Au, they were synthesized with success using a mixture of ligands (1-octanethiol and 3-mercaptopropionic acid) that showed phase segregation and formation of stripes. The evaluation of the Grubbs catalyst on metathesis reactions (self-metathesis of 1-hexene and ring opening polymerization of 1,5-ciclooctadiene) showed premature deactivation in the presence of both NPs-Au and free thiol. In the presence of NPs-Au, the catalytic activity descreased, achieving null results when weight ratios bigger than 1mg of NPs-Au to 10 mg of catalyst were used, possibly associated to the interaction between the mercaptans and the ruthenium catalyst. To make possible the catalyst anchoring on the NPs-Au surface, a NHC carbene with an allyl group on its carbon backbone was synthesized, corresponding to the first step to introduce functional groups to the catalyst / Mestrado / Quimica Inorganica / Mestre em Química

Aquaculture is playing an important role in the development of fisheries in Vietnam, a role which has accelerated since 2000. Sustainability in aquaculture is receiving increasing attention, and this issue is not only the concern of government, but also stakeholders participating in the value chain. Therefore, this study aims to identify sustainability issues of farmed seafood by assessing the main sustainability issues raising concern. The Global Value Chain framework described by Gereffi et al. (2005) is applied for this study to explore the business relationships in supply chain and the perceptions of sustainability concerned by the value chain actors. A combination of qualitative and quantitative methods was used to collect data. An assessment of four species cultured on the Mekong Delta, the countries farmed seafood ‘hub’, found a clear distinction between species cultured with a local domestic market orientation (Giant Freshwater Prawn Macrobrachium rosenbergii; and Tilapia Oreochromis niloticus) and the two key export commodities - Striped catfish (Pangasianodon hypophthalmus) and Penaeid shrimp (Penaeus monodon & Litopenaeus vannamei). These orientations were based on a range of factors including the development of effective seed supplies and the cultural value of marketing in the live format. This study, conducted in ten provinces in the Mekong Delta from 2009 to 2013 had a focus on understanding the export-orientated commodities, striped catfish and shrimp through collection of baseline information on the value chain of farmed seafood, focusing on the farming sector, the actors and institutions involved and beneficiaries. Sustainability issues and perceptions of experts (top-down) and primary stakeholders (bottom-up) opinions were assessed through participatory workshops. Shrimp and striped catfish production are mainly farmed for export, with 83% and 95% of its production, respectively, leaving the country mainly after processing. Currently, mainly families operate small-/medium-scale farms; while large-farms are integrated within seafood processors. Production efficiency of large-farms tends to be better than small-/medium farms. Many striped catfish and shrimp farms are likely to reach several standard criteria such as economic feed conversion ratio (eFCR), stocking density, no banned chemical/drug and wild-seed use, and land property rights; however, there were still many standard criteria that existing farms could not meet such as effluent management, farm registration, fishmeal control, farm hygiene and record-keeping requirement. Hence, current farming practices, especially small-/medium farms have a long way to go to meet emergent international food standards. Recently, many small-/medium catfish farms faced problems with low fish prices, so they have had to cease catfish farming activities and temporarily stop farming; while some larger farms also had to temporarily stop farming. Therefore, fish price has tended to be a main driving force for catfish farm changes. In the shrimp industry, there were technical changes occurring in the high intensity level of shrimp farms (HiLI); whereas, the remaining shrimp farms had fewer changes in farm management. Most HiLI shrimp farms were affected by AHPNS disease, which was a main factor driving their farm changes. Many perceptions of sustainability were identified by stakeholder groups, however seven sustainability issues had a high level of agreement among stakeholders including input cost, capital & credit costs, unstable markets, government regulation & policy, disease, seed quality, water quality and water availability factors. Hatcheries, farmers and manager groups were more concerned about environmental issues; while for the input suppliers and processors, economics was the main issue. Farmers and processors were two main actors that played an important role in the production process of the value chain. Small-/medium farms dominated the number of farms overall and still played an important role in primary production. However, small-scale farms were considered as more vulnerable actors in the value chain, and they faced more difficulties in meeting increasing requirements on food quality/safety. To maintain the position in the value chain, the solutions could be horizontal and vertical coordination. Thus policy makers will need to find ways to include them in the planning processes. To reach sustainability will require the efforts of direct stakeholders, the role of the state agencies is essential in negotiation and diplomacy to create partnerships with the seafood importing countries. However, efforts to develop sustainable production become impossible without participation from importers, retailers and consumers.

Seasonality of reproduction in common dolphins (Delphinus delphis), bottlenosed dolphins (Tursiops aduncus), striped dolphins (Stenella coeruleoalba) and humpbacked dolphins (Sousa chinensis) was examined using standard light microscope techniques. In the males four stages of testicular development could be identified. Individuals less than 2.26m in length and 105kg in mass had testes that contained small seminiferous tubules (0.048mm ± O.Olmm in diameter) and were classified either as juveniles (gonocytes present) or inactive (no gonocytes). Adults whose testes contained spermatozoa were said to be in late spermatogenesis while those whose testes contained no spermatids or spermatozoa were referred to as being in early spermatogenesis. In the males of D. delphis, T. aduncus and S. chinensis, late spermatogenesis occurred throughout the year and there was no significant difference in the monthly mean seminiferous tubule diameters (p > 0.05) within species. I conclude therefore that in these three species spermatogenesis is aseasonal. No conclusions about seasonality of spermatogenesis could be made for S. coeruleoalba owing to the small sample size. Large Graafian follicles occurred in the ovaries of all four species in most months of the year. However, the presence of Graafian follicles can not be taken as an indication of timing of reproduction since they may be remnants of follicles that have not yet degenerated. In D. delphis, T. aduncus and S. coeruleoalba luteal bodies (corpora albicans or corpora lutea) occurred in most months of the year. Active corpora lutea will be present in all months, in some members of the population, since gestation is approximately 12 months. The sperm structure of D. delphis was examined by scanning electron microscopy. The sperm of D. delphis is essentially similar to that described for two other species of Cetacea (Physeter catodon and Tursiops aduncus), having an ellipsoidally shaped head and a short mid-piece with nine mitochondria. The sperm dimensions for D. delphis were head length, 4.4pm; head width, 2.0pm and mid-piece length, 2.4pm. An analysis of foetal age in D. delphis showed that the majority of the foetuses were conceived in January with birth occurring the following summer (December), suggesting that reproduction is seasonal. Neonates of T. aduncus were found throughout the year suggesting aseasonal reproduction. Foetal material was not available for S. coeruleoalba and S. chinensis. Seasonality of reproduction in the four species of dolphins studied has been discussed in relation to feeding, migration and worldwide distribution of the species.

An investigation into the spatial ecology and effects of catch-and-release angling on the physiology and behavior of striped bass was conducted. Fine-scale behavior was assessed by tagging fish with acoustic transmitters equipped with pressure and tri-axial accelerometer sensors and tracking them within a fixed array (n=34 receivers) in a Massachusetts estuary. Activity space changed significantly over the course of the season and increased with water temperature. Striped bass most frequently exhibited low levels of locomotory activity representing 67% of total activity measurements, with occasional high activity and burst swimming, often within the upper 3 m of the water column. Depth distribution of striped bass remained shallower when temperatures peaked at over 21 oC. Diel vertical migration was present with shallowest depths observed during the day and greatest depths during high tide. To investigate catch-and-release consequences, 102 striped bass were angled and blood sampled between July and November 2011. A subsample of 35 striped bass (July n=11, August n=11, September n=13) were implanted with tri-axial acoustic accelerometers to assess relative behavior and survival post-release. Results from principle component analyses produced five factors describing 72.7% of the variance for blood physiology parameters, total length, and water temperature. Subsequently, only eigenvalues from PC1, with high loading for blood lactate, plasma sodium and chloride, and total length, were significantly correlated with fight time. Eight individual fish were detected within 12 hours of release and exhibited their greatest mean daily activity space estimate within that time (1.5 km2 ± 0.6, 50%; 5.6 km2 ± 2.2, 95%). Depth ranged from 0-6.15 m (1.89±1.3 m) and acceleration ranged from 0.095-3.51 ms-2 (0.95±0.33). In summary, no observed mortality suggests that fish were able to recover from the physical and physiological impacts of angling. This thesis has increased the understanding of striped bass ecology and will help promote future conservation and management initiatives for striped bass and facilitate additional research.

The uptake, distribution and depuration of a water soluble, mono-aromatic hydrocarbon contained in petroleum and refined products was studied in two species of marine fish, Nature northern anchovy (Engraulis mordax) and juvenile striped bass (Horone saxatilis) were exposed to sub-lethal concentrations of 14c benzene for 48 hours. Residues in tissues exhibiting a high lipid content (non-metabolic pathway) or representing apparent major metabolic sites were measured during the exposure and afterwards when the fish were transferred to clean seawater. Fish exhibited a rapid uptake over a wide range of benzene concentrations in the water column. Accumulation in anchovy was considerably greater than in striped bass. Results indicate that the pathway of hydrocarbons through the liver, gall bladder, intestines and colon is a major depuration route. Residues were depurated rapidly after cessation of exposure; in striped bass tissues. most residues were undetectable by seven days,

No description available.

No description available.