Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1982. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 39-42).

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1984. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 40-41).

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1987. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaf 62).

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1993. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaf 27).

Thesis--Wisconsin. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 108-110).

No description available.

The thesis aims at developing conceptual and methodological tools in order to adapt sound in a “designerly” way within the discipline textile design. Occupational groups working with sound are to a large extent problem driven. This implies knowledge regarding sound and sound design mostly focuses on defensive strategies, not creative possibilities. The ambition with this research project is to make suggestions how textile designers can work practically with textile sound design, in a more nuanced way. /br As a starting point the thesis describes commonly used methods and processes used in the design process within an industrial context, followed by a more thorough analyze of the textile design process. These studies constitute a foundation to make it possible to see in what way these methods and processes will be affected when sound is added as new design tool./br By studies of two sound design models, the first attempts to develop a vocabulary concerning how to describe sound affecting qualities or sound expression of a textile are presented. Research focusing on language issues, especially on the development of conceptual tools done at the research institute Cresson, provides descriptive concepts, “sound effects”, embracing the interaction between human and his sound environment. These concepts are followed by a model of how to describe a “sound object” in “itself” (not in relation to anything else), developed by Pierre Schaeffer./br The theoretical models have been applied on the outcome of an phenomenological study named Describe. A number of design examples are finally presented as methodological examples of different ways to work with textiles and sound./br Keywords: sound, design, textile design, sound effect, sound object. / Thesis to be defended in public at 24 May 2011 at 13.00, at the Gallary floor 2, The Swedish School of Textiles, Bryggaregatan 17, Borås, for the degree of Philosophy.

Electronic textiles (e­‐textiles) are created by the amalgamation of electronics and textiles, where electronics are integrated into or onto fabric substrates. Woven textiles are specifically considered in this thesis to integrate electronics into textiles' orthogonal architecture. This thesis investigates 'How can the weaving process be manipulated to make woven e-­textiles with integrated electronics?' The methodological approach taken is practice based research carried out via a technical materials approach and creative craft methods. An investigation of woven e-­textiles through design led practice and woven expertise is presented. Previously, woven e-­textiles have been investigated either via technical material approaches, (where the main emphasis remains on function) or via creative craft methods, (which emphasise experimental forms, manipulate integration methods and apply craft based knowledge). Both of these approaches have presented only limited investigation of unobtrusive integrated electronics in woven e-­textiles, and woven structures have not been fully utilised to support the integration. The research applies reflective practice through a design process model; this is based on the researcher's previous weaving expertise and designing methods. The work investigates how woven construction may be manipulated to develop novel integrated woven e-­textiles. It was found that five woven approaches were particularly of value for electronics integration. These were the use of double cloth, the integration of multiple functions into the textiles as part of the weaving, the use of complex weaving techniques to attach and integrate components, the use of inlay weft weaving and the manipulation of floats (free floating threads). The thesis makes original contributions to knowledge, including identification of key stages in the woven e-­textile design process, identification and application of advanced weaving techniques to facilitate integrated woven e-­textiles, and compilation of a systematic record of woven e-­‐textile techniques as a technical woven repository. Underpinning design principles that influence the developed e-­textile outcomes are identified. A range of woven e-­textile samples are designed and made. Three specific examples including an actuator ('RGB colour mixer'), a circuit ('corrugated pleat LED v2') and a soft module ('battery holder module v4'), are described in detail to illustrate their development using the e-­textile design process model. The knowledge gained has potential to be applied to industrial woven processes for e-­textiles.

SCALE UP! is an exploration in hand-printed surface patterns in relation to scale. The aim is to make hand-printed large-scale surface patterns, by challenging the limitations of the printing screen, the fabric width and the circle as a shape; with the circle as a pattern and structure to visualise it, by colours and bleed-through. The project is based in an interest in working large-scale, in the area of screen printing. We often see printed full-width fabrics where the repeat fills the whole width. However, a possibility to take it one step further and not be limited by the width of the fabric or the size of the printing screen was seen. Why be satisfied with the size of a full-width pattern and see the printing screen as a frame to keep within? The striving to challenge the size of the printing screen and the fabric width were the basis of the project. The result is one piece ~4,2 x 4,8 m big consisting of six hand-printed cloths.

This practice-led PhD research explores the nature of embodied knowledge acquired and practised through the rhythms and patterns of hand-stitching processes, such as embroidery, plain sewing and patchwork quilting, undertaken by individuals alone and in dedicated groups as recreational craft, artistic expression and social life. The scale and pace of hand-stitching match those of the body, grounding cognitive and emotional experience in a tangible process. The hand-eye-mind coordination required cultivates a distinctive form of attention to the self, which has renewed importance in the context of the anti- haptic experiences of screen technologies that infiltrate our daily routines in the home and the workplace. Working with the premise that skilled hand-stitching concerns more than technical ability, I examine how these activities articulate dimensions of subjective experience. In turn, I explore ways in which the relationship between an individual and a group is constructed through their crafting skills. My previous experiences of textile crafting as a social activity drew me to this question, and my interest as a practitioner and teacher in the contemporary and future relevance of skilful work motivates me to better understand what it is that I, and many other stitch practitioners, do. With the tacit knowledge of a practitioner I know how to stitch, and from my investigations into the history and theory of textile art, craft and material culture I know about stitch. However, my view is that when absorbed in the process of making other more immediate and personal sensations take over. An exploration of haptic sensations relative to these processes underpins the investigation, and I focus instead on the dynamic relationship between practical skill, the body and its proximity to tools, materials and other people during actual experiences of making – the repeated gestures, coordinated hand movements and the skilled precision of tool use and fingertip manipulation – to provide a new context for the study of embodied knowledge known in and through hand-stitching. In order to explore this I have used a combination of ethnographic, auto-ethnographic and creative research methods including interviews, observation, video recording of a patchwork quilting group, participation in practical stitching sessions with a village embroidery group, undertaking workshops with students, and my own reflective stitching practice. It has emerged from the research that patterns of hand-stitching processes share characteristics with certain modes of social interaction sought by participants in order to experience sensations of participation, belonging or interdependence. Similarly to other oral traditions, an embodied knowledge of the practice includes patterns of interaction and particular attitudes and behaviours that are inseparable from the practical skills. However, people also stitch on their own; as a private, contemplative activity, hand-stitching allows a person to carve out time and space for introspective reflection. Whilst this could be thought of as a different kind of experience altogether, I suggest that mastery of these skills enables control over when and how to use them, which, I have found, allows a practitioner to adjust the type of experience sought: participation in a shared conversation or activity can be exchanged for isolated contemplation and a sense of self-reliance. I conclude that hand-stitching surpasses its technical or artistic attributes when considered as a material practice that offers particular metaphors for other processes of joining, collaboration, integrity – or even separation and isolation. Practising these skills is possibly the only way to acquire this embodied knowledge, which needs to be understood as a mode of interaction if it is not merely trivialised as quaint, as domestic labour or archived as ethnographic curiosity or as art object.