This research project focussed on discarded clothing and textiles, as signifiers for the lowest exchange value in the fashion system, and sought methods to add value by up-cycling1 into one of a kind fashion garments. Opportunities to add value were investigated with three main ideas emerging which include up-cycling the visual appearance of the garment or textiles through restyling, user interaction, and creating a narrative for the garment. The practice focussed on developing methods to incorporate these concepts as a way of extending the life of low value textiles into items that could be re-introduced into the fashion cycle2. Walker (2008) suggests that by conveying the story of a product to the consumer, the perception of value increased, and opportunities to explore this concept were investigated during the project. Experimentation with a variety of materials and techniques resulted in developing a method to re-fabricate3 threadbare and stained garments into a new material. User participation4 was investigated as a way to ‘add value,’ as it was hoped that by enabling the user to interact with the design they would value the item more. Exploring this concept led to the development of a range of garments and garment kits that enabled the user to learn techniques and make garments using discarded textiles and clothing. The garments and kits were developed using methods and techniques that could be easily mastered and used materials that would be readily available to the user. The development of the garment kits reframed the user as a designer/maker, which is sometimes referred to as participatory design,5 and Followed Fletcher’s (2008) directive that for practical reasons, the methods need to be low tech and inexpensive. A group of research participants trialled the garment kits, made their own garment and provided feedback, which informed the final phase of the project and the development of revised kits and garments. The project suggests potential opportunities for the fashion designer may exist by focussing on the use of existing resources and heightened user connectivity in the design of garments.

This research project focussed on discarded clothing and textiles, as signifiers for the lowest exchange value in the fashion system, and sought methods to add value by up-cycling1 into one of a kind fashion garments. Opportunities to add value were investigated with three main ideas emerging which include up-cycling the visual appearance of the garment or textiles through restyling, user interaction, and creating a narrative for the garment. The practice focussed on developing methods to incorporate these concepts as a way of extending the life of low value textiles into items that could be re-introduced into the fashion cycle2. Walker (2008) suggests that by conveying the story of a product to the consumer, the perception of value increased, and opportunities to explore this concept were investigated during the project. Experimentation with a variety of materials and techniques resulted in developing a method to re-fabricate3 threadbare and stained garments into a new material. User participation4 was investigated as a way to ‘add value,’ as it was hoped that by enabling the user to interact with the design they would value the item more. Exploring this concept led to the development of a range of garments and garment kits that enabled the user to learn techniques and make garments using discarded textiles and clothing. The garments and kits were developed using methods and techniques that could be easily mastered and used materials that would be readily available to the user. The development of the garment kits reframed the user as a designer/maker, which is sometimes referred to as participatory design,5 and Followed Fletcher’s (2008) directive that for practical reasons, the methods need to be low tech and inexpensive. A group of research participants trialled the garment kits, made their own garment and provided feedback, which informed the final phase of the project and the development of revised kits and garments. The project suggests potential opportunities for the fashion designer may exist by focussing on the use of existing resources and heightened user connectivity in the design of garments.

Thesis (M.F.A.)--Rochester Institute of Technology, 1988. / Includes bibliographical references (leaf 24).

Thesis (doctoral)--School of Design and Crafts (HDK), Faculty of Fine, Applied and Performing Arts, Göteborg University, Göteborg, 2007. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 125-129).

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Friedrich-Alexanders-Universität Erlangen, 1912.

Thesis (M.A.)--Villanova University, 2006. / History Dept. Includes bibliographical references.

Universiẗat, Diss., 2002--Dortmund.

Th.--Hist. de l'art--Montpellier 3, 1988. Titre de soutenance : Catalogue thématique des tapisseries coptes du Musée historique des tissus de Lyon. / Bibliogr. p. 347-354. Glossaire. Index.

The fashion industry is faced with a challenge of the world’s population today and it is therefore looking for other alternatives of dressing up the entire population since cotton is at its extinction. This study introduces an African crafted sustainable textile fabric called Bark cloth. The research includes the details of the fabric, the production process and what the fabric can be used for in order to give the reader a deeper understanding of the fabric and why it is interesting to be added on the Swedish market. A qualitative methodology is used and that is to say; interviews have been conducted as well as empirical data review which is used as basis on both primary and secondary data hence this helped in providing valid information for this study. The study findings and results are greatly based on the field study the author made recently in Uganda to broaden this project and the study is also be based on the information was be gathered from the other empirical sources such as interviews and the literature. The study scope outcomes will be applicable to the fashion council that that is seeking help in finding out how cotton can be substituted and it will also be very useful at the Swedish School of Textiles and the Textile museum in Boras.

Properties of textiles have great influences on the thermo-physiological and skin sensorial wear comfort of the human body. Sportswear is expected to have good moisture management property, which is key factor to achieve wear comfort. For some sports, they are also expected to have low friction with skin and antibacterial capability. To meet these demands, single-layer fabrics are utterly incompetent. Thus, model dual-layer textiles that consist of a thin hydrophobic electrospun inner layer and a thick hydrophilic electrospun outer layer are designed and fabricated to verify the possibility to simultaneously achieve dual functionalities, including good moisture transport property, with low friction with skin or good antibacterial property. The hydrophobic inner layer ensures low water absorption and transmission of sweat via capillary motion, while the hydrophilic outer layer draws the sweat out from the inner layer and facilitates evaporation to the surrounding environment. In the PhD work presented in this thesis, electrospun nanofibrous mats are used as the model textiles because they have large specific surface area due to a lot of interpenetrating pores between the nanofibers, which could facilitate both the capillary motion and effect of surface modification and incorporation of functional materials. Also, to let the moisture transport away fast, fairly thin hydrophobic inner layers could be achieved by electrospinning because it could control the thickness accurately. To improve the moisture transport property, the capillary motion in the textile is facilitated by decreasing the pore size or increasing the surface hydrophilicity. Dual-layer mats composed of a thick layer of hydrophilic polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofibers and a thin layer of hydrophobic polystyrene (PS) nanofibers with and without interpenetrating nanopores are fabricated respectively. Then the mats are coated with polydopamine (PDOPA) to different extents to tailor the water wettability of the PS layer. It is found that with a large quantity of nanochannels, the porous PS nanofibers exhibit a stronger capillary effect than the solid PS nanofibers. The capillary motion in the porous PS nanofibers can be further enhanced by slight surface modification with PDOPA while retaining the large hydrophilicity difference between the two layers, inducing a strong push-pull effect to transport water from the PS to the PAN layer. To lower the friction between the textile and skin, both of the hydration of the skin and the chemical component of textiles are modified. Core-shell nanofibers with a PAN-rich core and a poly (vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF)-rich shell are fabricated by single-spinneret electrospinning and used as the inner layer of the dual-layer mats. The dual-layer textile has good moisture transport property and the inner layer of the textile has lower friction with the skin, because the PAN in the inner layer could increase the wettability of the layer, thus improve the capillary effect, and the PVDF-rich shell could lower the friction between the textile and the skin. The synergistic combination of a considerably hydrophobic PAN/PVDF inner layer and a highly hydrophilic CA outer layer induces a strong push-pull effect, resulting in efficient moisture-wicking. To introduce antibacterial property to the dual-layer textile, zinc oxide (ZnO) NPs were covalently attached on the surface of the ethoxysilane-functionalized cross-linked PVDF inner layer. The results of related testes show that the incorporation of the ZnO NPs could render the textile antibacterial property as well as enhance the water wettability of the inner, thus the moisture transport property of the textile is also strongly improved. Also, the ZnO NPs show very good anti-wash property due to the covalent bonding with the inner layer. Thus the potential health risk caused by the detachment of the NPs could be avoided. In summary, the research results presented in this thesis provide effective strategies to enhance the capillary motion and moisture transport property of the textile, as well as achieve dual functionalities. The design concepts demonstrated in this PhD research can be used as model systems for development of novel multifunctional textiles in industries.