Time and Tradition in Arequipa, Perú, and the Development of a Chronology for the Central Deity ThemeThe valleys of the department of Arequipa are poorly known archeologically when compared with many other regions of Peru. Hopefully this paper will stimulate interest. I describe two newly identified local Arequipa cultures based on artifacts collected in the valleys of Sihuas and Vitor, as well as an early Nasca 1 presence in the Sihuas Valley. For analysis and discussion I employ artifacts in collections and published illustrations. Siguas 1 flourished during the Early Horizon and Siguas 3 during the Early Intermediate Period. Both cultures placed their artistic emphasis on textiles rather than pottery, a possible reason for their neglect by scholars since Central Andean chronologies and seriations are based on pottery. Some early Nasca style textiles and pottery from Arequipa show characteristic differences from actual south coast examples, which is interpreted as local manufacture. This implies some form of interaction between Arequipa and the south coast. Preliminary results based on textile technologies implies that the far south coast influenced the south coast during the Early Horizon. The Siguas 2 textile tradition combines Siguas and Nasca elements. In addition, I describe Pukara related textiles dated to the Early Intermediate Period, some allegedly discovered in Arequipa. They permit tracing a Central Deity Theme back through provincial Pukara to Siguas 1 textile designs. Analysis of the Central Deity's head and crown with appendages from different traditions suggests that Tiwanaku's and Wari's 1A Conchopata themes were derived from different Pukara style traditions. / En términos arqueológicos, los valles del departamento de Arequipa son pobremente conocidos en comparación con otras regiones del Perú y es de esperar que este artículo ayude a despertar interés por el tema. Se describirán dos nuevas culturas locales recientemente identificadas en Arequipa, sobre la base de artefactos recolectados en los valles de Sihuas y Vitor, así como la temprana presencia de Nasca en el valle de Sihuas. En el análisis y la discusión también se han utilizado artefactos de colecciones e ilustraciones publicadas. Siguas 1 florece durante el Horizonte Temprano y Siguas 3 durante el Periodo Intermedio Temprano. El énfasis de ambas culturas se sitúa más en la textilería que en la cerámica, posible razón de la omisión que han sufrido por parte de los investigadores, ya que las cronologías y seriaciones de los Andes Centrales se basan en la cerámica. Ciertos ceramios y textiles de estilo Nasca Temprano, provenientes de Arequipa, muestran diferencias características frente a piezas de la costa sur, lo cual es interpretado como manifestaciones de manufactura local. Este hecho supone alguna forma de interacción entre Arequipa y la costa sur. Resultados preliminares basados en el análisis tecnológico de los textiles indican que la costa del extremo sur del Perú habría influenciado a la costa sur durante el Horizonte Temprano. La tradición textil de Siguas 2 combina elementos de Nasca y de Siguas. Por otra parte, se describirán textiles relacionados con Pukara del Periodo Intermedio Temprano, sobre los cuales se afirma algunos provendrían de Arequipa. Estos textiles permiten seguir la huella del Tema de la Deidad Central a través del estilo Pukara Provincial hasta los ejemplares de Siguas 1. El análisis de la cabeza de la Deidad Central y su corona con apéndices sobre la base del material de diferentes tradiciones, sugiere que los temas de Tiwanaku y de Wari Época 1A en Conchopata derivan de diferentes tradiciones del estilo Pukara.

Standard test methods provide product developers with information regarding materials' suitability for different purposes. Typically, current standards are suitable for determining the mechanical properties of new materials. However, in the case of electronic textiles (E-Textiles) and wearable technology (wearables), adding conductive components with added functionality makes utilizing textile standards difficult, and these standards will not provide information on mechanical and electrical properties of conductive elements. New standards for E-Textile and wearables testing are needed to ensure product developers can obtain the information necessary to make informed decisions about new products. Standards organizations such as the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and the Institute for Printed Circuits (IPC) are working on new methods for testing E-Textiles and wearables but must ensure the tests are rugged before publication and industry adoption. This study focuses on performing a ruggedness test for a new IPC test method for abrasion resistance of E-Textiles.

Stand Up Weave explores multiple-layer weaving from a sculptural and spatial perspective in combination with non-textile materials as a way of challanging what weaving can be and how it can be developed in the changing textile industry. The aim was to develop three-dimensional fabrics by hand weaving in multiple layers with integrated supporting structures to achieve sculptural textile objects directed towards experimental textile design. The work investigates and develops methods of how to design and produce complete textile objects directly in the loom without industrial machines or finishing processes such as sewing together parts. The result is a collection of three woven objects, each exhibiting different ways of constructing three-dimensional textiles with individual solutions for warp planning, weaving and supporting structures.

El presente trabajo tiene como finalidad el desarrollo de una máquina automática que facilite el proceso de hilado de lana, en especial el hilado de lana de alpaca, a las personas y artesanos de zonas rurales, cuyo trabajo está relacionado al comercio y producción de dicha fibra. Con ayuda de este sistema mecatrónico, el artesano podrá ahorrar tiempo en el proceso de hilado y podrá invertirlo en otras actividades, como es el tejido o bordado. Además, gracias a este sistema, el hilo que se obtenga tendrá una mejor precisión con respecto al grosor de este, aumentando así su calidad; el usuario podrá seleccionar entre grosores de 1 mm, 2 mm o 3 mm de acuerdo al uso que él piense darle al hilo. También, debido a que ya no se invertirá demasiado tiempo en el proceso de hilado, las personas que exportan fibra de lana de alpaca en bruto y sin ningún acabado, podrán generar un valor agregado a sus exportaciones de una forma sencilla mediante el hilado de la fibra que exportan. En el capítulo 1 se plantea la problemática existente en el país con respecto al proceso del hilado y que el sistema mecatrónico debe resolver. En el capítulo 2 se mencionan los requerimientos y condiciones que el sistema mecatrónico debe cumplir, asimismo, se presenta el concepto de la solución que logrará cumplir tales requerimientos. En el capítulo 3 se explica detalladamente el funcionamiento del sistema, así como los elementos mecánicos y electrónicos que lo conforman, el detalle se muestra en los planos, esquemáticos y diagramas de flujo. En el capítulo 4 se hace el cálculo del presupuesto necesario para la implementación del sistema mecatrónico. Por último en el capítulo 5 se muestran las conclusiones a las que se llegaron al finalizar el presente trabajo.

Ce travail est consacré à la théorie et aux simulations numériques des nouveaux textiles qui peuvent communiqués sans-fil et composé des antennes fibre multimatériaux. La recherche est conduite par une tentative à changer le concept de "wearables" de grands dispositifs montés sur le corps à des dispositifs cachés confortables intégrés dans vos vêtements. Les textiles RF peuvent être prévus dans divers secteur des soins de santé, pour la surveillance des enfants et des personnes âgées, dans les domaines de télémédecine, de sécurité et de la recherche et sauvetage. Les antennes RF textiles, précédemment développées dans notre groupe, sont constituées de fibre multimatériaux en incorporant une couche conductrice d'argent dans un capillaire silice de 100 µm de diamètre à l'aide de la technique de déposition de phase liquide. La structure de ces antennes portables est flexible, se conforme au corps et non invasif. Dans ce travail, la performance de deux antennes de fibre, l'antenne dipôle et boucle, sont examinés à la bande de fréquence ISM par des simulations numériques à l'aide de logiciel ANSYS HFSS dans l'espace libre et sur le corps. À cette fin, le modèle de corps humain à plusieurs couches spécifiques a été développé en s'inspirant des valeurs proposées par le FCC "Federal Communications Commission" pour assigner les propriétés diélectriques de chaque tissu et pour satisfaire toutes les mesures de sécurité. Les résultats stimulés comprennent le déplacement de fréquence de résonance, les diagrammes de rayonnement affectés, le champ de rayonnement au-dessus du corps, l'efficacité et les mesures de SAR. En outre, la séparation de corps de l'antenne et les effets météorologiques sont également examinés. Les résultats présentés sont ensuite analysés en ce qui concerne les avantages et les inconvénients des deux designs, particulièrement dans le scénario sur le corps, tel qu'une attention spéciale est accordée à la robustesse et l'immunité contre la proximité du corps humain. / This work is devoted to the theory and numerical simulations of novel wireless-communicating textiles featuring multi-material RF fiber antennas embedded into textiles. The research is driven by an attempt to change the concept of wearables from large devices mounted on the body to a hidden and comfortable wearables integrated into your clothes. RF textiles antennas are expected to find multiple applications in various sectors of healthcare, child and elderly monitoring - telemedicine and home-nursing, security, search and rescue. RF textiles antennas, previously developed in our group, are made from multi-material fiber by incorporating a conductive layer of silver within a silica capillary of 100μm diameter using liquid phase deposition technique. The structure of these wearable antennas is flexible, conform to the body, and non-invasive. In this work the performance of two fiber antennas, namely dipole and loop, is investigated at ISM-band through numerical simulations using ANSYS HFSS both in free space and on-body scenario. For this purpose, the specific multi-layer human body model was developed using the “Federal Communication Commission” guidelines to assign the dielectric properties of each tissue and to satisfy all safety regulations. Simulated results include the shifting of resonance frequency, affected radiation patterns, radiation field above the body, efficiency and SAR measurements. In addition, antenna-body-separation distance and weather effects are also investigated. Presented results are then analyzed in terms of pros and cons of the two fiber antenna designs, especially in on-body scenario, as special attention is given to the robustness and immunity against the vicinity of human body.

This thesis considers the impact of fabric properties on the electronic textile (e-textile) design process. Specifically, properties such as weave pattern, drape, tinsel wire placement and weight are evaluated as physical aspects of an e-textile system within an expanded design flow and fabric synthesis. A textile's physical properties are important for creating e-textiles that look and feel like normal clothing and thus are truly wearable. A more detailed assessment of the weave of an e-textile and its effect on the electrical resistance of networks of uninsulated conductive fibers is also considered in both single weaves and complex pocket double weaves. / Master of Science

No / X-radiography of textile objects reveals hidden features as well as unexpected components and materials. This non-destructive technique throws light on construction, manufacturing techniques, use, wear, repair, patterns of decay and dating. X-radiography improves artefact documentation and interpretation as well as guiding conservation approaches by enhancing understanding. This book explores techniques for X-raying textiles. It describes approaches to image interpretation and explains how, through digitisation and digital image manipulation, maximum information can be realised. Case studies include archaeological, ecclesiastical and ethnographic textiles, items of dress and accessories, upholstery, quilts, embroideries, dolls and toys. Museum professionals will find this stimulating book an essential guide for developing their own practice or commissioning textile X-radiographs.

A need for new churches arose in Sweden during the 1950’s when modern suburbs for the growing urban population were developed around the Swedish cities. Four architects, Peter Celsing, Sigurd Lewerentz, Hans Borgström and Bengt Lindroos, who were known for their profane modernist architecture, were commissioned to design three churches in Stockholm's new districts: S:t Tomas kyrka in Vällingby, St. Markuskyrkan in Björkhagen and Söderledskyrkan in Farsta and all were inaugurated in 1960.  The purpose of the essay is to investigate how the sacral textiles of the three modernist churches look like in the year of inauguration and how they related to their respective contexts in the form of the modernist church rooms 1960. The investigation is done with the help of the questions: How do the sacral textiles look like in the modernist neighborhood church? Why do they look the way they do? What has influenced their appearance and design? The questions are answered with the support of the theories Material Culture and the performativity theory, and the investigation is carried out using Material Culture as a method and the textile science documentation method. In order to be able to determine what modernity was in the contemporaneity of the sacral textiles, whimsical terms have been operationalized, which are taken from the contemporary literature that speaks about what the modern can be or not be. This is a theoretical starting point from which the investigation into modernity starts.  The result of the investigation shows that the sacral textiles in their newly manufactured parts was influenced by the modernist church context. It appears in the essay that the influencing factors were several and they appeared in the context of the church ́s liturgy, the architect ́s visions and the designers’ artistic signature in expression. These gave effect in different ways to the appearance and design of the sacred textiles.

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Purpose: The purpose of this research paper is to examine the potential of the Swedish textile industry to achieve more sustainability in the home textile segment, through establishing a local value chain for local consumption. The aim is to explore the potential of both the supply and demand side of the local market. For the supply, or the industry perspective, the goal is to show companies the relevant aspects to consider when choosing to establish a local value chain in Sweden, with a focus on the home textile segment. For the demand, or the consumer perspective, the objective is to find out how they perceive locally produced sustainable products and whether there is interest for purchasing such products. Methodology: Existing literature and relevant results from researches have been collected and used as secondary sources, for forming and backing up the industry perspective of the thesis work. Face to face interviews have been conducted and analyzed, for getting primary information for the consumer perspective for the paper. This work is an explorative study, combining information for both the supply and demand sides of the home textiles segment in Sweden. Findings: After combining the findings from the literature review and the results from the analysis from the interviews, it can be concluded that there is a potential to establish a local value chain in Sweden. The situation is not ideal though, also potential risks and drawbacks related to the locality of the value chain of the home textiles segment that are presented have to be considered. The paper explores both the advantages and the disadvantages for producing locally in Sweden, to estimate the existing potential.