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魯菜飲食文化在台灣的變遷─以北平悅賓樓餐廳為例 / The Changes of Shantung Cuisine Culture in Taiwan ─ An Example of Peiping Yueh-Bin-Lou Restaurant胡偉姣, Hu, Wei-Chiao Unknown Date (has links)
基於組織、文化與社會三者具有變遷之特性,和彼此互動關係密切的假設,本研究由飲食文化的內涵切入,經由文獻回顧印證魯菜飲食文化的形成暨變遷過程,得知其乃為中國地方文化、社會等互動下的產物。而相對於川、蘇、粵菜系,其較具悠久歷史的孕育、較具有利政經因素的影響、較具獨特資源的供給和較具優勢人文的涵養,固然使魯菜飲食文化成為中國飲食文化的基礎,但也為其埋下了封閉、保守的特性。
本研究以悅賓樓為例,實證結果發現,其所經營的魯菜飲食,無論在物質面向或非物質面向,均有不同程度的改變。前者包括:食材用量結合本地生產,且用量漸增;調味料亦遷就本地消費者習慣,使米酒和提鮮用量增;菜點和烹製技藝方面,則傾向增加水產類菜款,顏色趨於本色但多元,帶鹹菜款比重下降,嫩質感菜款增加和刀工變化與烹調方法趨繁。後者包含:實實在在的管理、正正派派的經營和以客為尊的服務。
由悅賓樓之經營觀之,魯菜飲食文化之變遷主要係受本土化和現代化的影響。而統計與分析顯示,本土化主要表現在菜點和員工兩方面。現代化則顯見於觀念、產品和制度三方面。
本研究其他重要發現則有:
壹、魯菜飲食文化之變遷與形成是漸進的。
貳、魯菜飲食文化變遷之內涵更趨符合現代飲食。
參、魯菜飲食文化變遷的目的非關進步。
肆、魯菜飲食文化的變遷仍持續中。 / Based upon the fact that there are specific features of changes among organizations, culture, and the society, and the hypothesis that they interact closely among one another, adopting methods of historical documents and literature review, this thesis by focusing on the changing content of the cuisine culture; the author proves that the formation and the changes of the Shantung cuisine culture is actually a product of the interaction among regional Chinese culture, the society, etc. In contrast with the Sichuan cuisine, Shanghai cuisine, and Canton cuisine, which enjoy wider popular acceptance, more favorably political and economic influence, better supplied by unique resources, and better humane and social background, the Shantung cuisine culture though has been the base of Chinese cuisine culture, it nevertheless has suffered from being locked-in and conservative.
Yueh-Bin-Lou Restaurant is taken as the case study of this thesis. The author found out that the Shantung dishes it serves shows changes to certain extent, both in the material and non-material aspects. The former includes: the amount of the materials used carves relative by proportion of Taiwanese product. The use of seasonings also caters to the tastes of the Taiwanese customers; the consumption of rice wine and MSG increases. The courses and the cookery have shown the following changes: increase of seafood, the color tends to stick to the original but of more varieties; the salty courses are decreasing, tender taste courses appear more often, and more varieties have shown on carving and cooking of food. As to the latter, it includes: practical management, legal operations, and customized services.
From the Yueh-Bin-Lou Restaurant case, the author found out that the changes of the Shantung cuisine culture are mainly influenced by indigenization and modernization processes. According to statistics and analysis, the indigenization shows mainly on the ordering of courses, and the hiring of employees; while the modernization can be depicted obviously on concepts, products and systems.
Other important findings of this thesis are:
1.The changes and formation of the Shantung cuisine culture are progressive.
2.The content of changes of the Shantung cuisine culture fits more towards modern healthy diet.
3.The purpose of changes of the Shantung cuisine culture has nothing to do with progress.
4.The changes of the Shantung cuisine culture are still undergoing.
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