電影《購物狂的異想世界》中麗貝卡的消費情境揭示當代消費者追求時尚以表達自我認同的普遍現象。不同於社會學傳統將時尚現象貶抑為脫序行為的輕視，本研究欲探討消費社會中的時尚實作，再思「社會秩序如何可能」的古典問題。本研究基於Benjamin對時尚的現代性考察，假設新社會秩序的理論模型為「消費社會=時尚+拜物教性質」。據此假說，本研究主張兩大論點：首先，消費社會中的時尚實作是一種社會模控機制，具有穩定社會秩序的功能。其次，有別於拜物教的常識與科學認識，物神實際上扮演著社會秩序的中介角色。
本研究的具體分析目標有三：第一，釐清Simmel、Bourdieu、Bauman時尚社會學的理論意涵以便確立分析框架，並進而指出三者錯失的社會場景。第二，將時尚社會學常用的「階級性」和「個體性」這兩個分析概念操作化，並從社會歷史到個人心理的經驗現象層面漸次闡明消費社會中「拚行頭」和「風格穿搭」的時尚實作。第三，重新梳理「原始社會拜物教」、「商品拜物教」與「精神分析戀物癖」的概念歷史，並將此概念組應用到時尚現象中進行拜物教性質的詮釋。承上述，研究結果發現，消費社會的秩序已脫離社會契約論與社會互動論等觀點，改以物神誘惑時尚主體的新形式進行社會整合。換句話說，消費者在時尚遊戲中同時扮演主人與奴隸的矛盾角色；不過，本研究最終又提問拜物教作為政治策略的可能性，以便為將來的研究提供方向。 / In the film Confessions of a Shopaholic, Rebecca is addicted to the overconsumption of fashionable clothes and shoes. Her singular case reveals an universal phenomenon of the consumer society in which consumers pursue fashion as an expression of self-identity. In counter to the conventional sociological dismissal of fashion to individual anomic behaviors, this thesis seeks to explore the logic of practice of fashion in the consumer society with an aim to rethink the classical question of social order. After being initiated into Benjamin's enchanting world of fashion, the thesis hypothesizes a theoretical model of the new social order which may be formulated as "Consumer society = Fashion + Property of Fetishism". Based on this hypothesis, the thesis puts forward two lines of arguments. Above all, practices of fashion in the consumer society are an integral part of cybernetic control in the maintenance of social order. Subsequently, the notion of fetish should be severed from conceptions of substance or subject prevalent in commonsense as well as scientific understanding, and reconceived as playing a medating role in the structuring and restructuring of society.
The thesis is organized around three objects of analysis. First,we clarify dominant sociological accounts of fashion in the works of Simmel, Bourdieu and Bauman to outline an analytical framework whilst questioning the social-historical scenes those theoretical perspectives have possibly missed. Second, we operationalize the analytical notions of "social class" and "individuality" within social settings of fashion known as "dress to compete" and "dress in style", and then expound these widespread empirical phenomena of fashion by means of social history as well as individual psychology. Third, we review the conceptual development of "primitive fetishism ", "commodity fetishism" and "sexual fetishism" in relevant intellectual histories, and then apply the conceptual triad to the reinterpretation of fashion as a social phenomenon imbued with the practical property of fetishism. As a result, the thesis finds that the question of order in the consumer society is radically different from what the proponents of social contract and symbolic interaction have usually conceived. Instead, contemporary society mobilizes various mechanisms of fetishism to seduce consumer subjects so that they can actively contribute to social integration. In other words, a consumer is both master and slave in the game of fashion; nevertheless, this thesis ponders on the final possibility of fetishism as a political strategy, a heuristic question which might lead to future research.
| Identifer | oai:union.ndltd.org:CHENGCHI/G0982540031 |
| Creators | 鄭智維, Cheng, Chih Wei |
| Publisher | 國立政治大學 |
| Source Sets | National Chengchi University Libraries |
| Language | 中文 |
| Detected Language | English |
| Type | text |
| Rights | Copyright © nccu library on behalf of the copyright holders |
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