No description available.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Delaware, 2006. / Principal faculty advisor: Robert F. Simons, Dept. of Psychology. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (M.A.)--University of Missouri-Columbia, 2007. / The entire dissertation/thesis text is included in the research.pdf file; the official abstract appears in the short.pdf file (which also appears in the research.pdf); a non-technical general description, or public abstract, appears in the public.pdf file. Title from title screen of research.pdf file (viewed on October 23, 2007) Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Ohio University, August, 2006. / Title from PDF t.p. Includes bibliographical references.

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Wounds heal better in skin with terminal hair follicles (large and pigmented) as opposed to those with vellus hair follicles (small and unpigmented), while dermal fibroblasts from different anatomical regions also exhibit phenotypical differences. Tissue repair requires a tight control of cell proliferation, migration and apoptosis, and recent studies have shown the importance of inhibitors of apoptosis proteins (IAPs), which are proteins that prevent the process of apoptosis via their interaction with caspase molecules in wound healing. Oestrogens improve the rate and quality of wound healing, but their relationship with IAPs in human skin has not been studied. Therefore, terminal (scalp) and vellus (facial) hair bearing skin from the same donor was compared in situ and matching primary cultures of dermal fibroblasts were established from terminal (DF(T)) and vellus (DF(V)) hair bearing skin. Using immunofluorescent staining, the expression of IAPs and their antagonists was compared at different stages of the hair cycle following depilation using a murine model and then in terminal and vellus hair bearing human skin. The size and granularity of matching DF(T) and DF(V) cultures was compared by FACS analysis and mRNA and protein expression of Apollon, cIAP2, NAIP and XIAP and their antagonists DIABLO and Xaf1 analysed by qRT-PCR and immunocytochemistry in unwounded and mechanically wounded fibroblast cultures. Differences in proliferation, migration, viability and caspase 3 activity in the presence of 17β-oestradiol and changes in mRNA expression of the oestrogen receptors (GPR30, ERα and ERβ) were compared between the two cell types. IAP protein expression was generally found higher during mid anagen of the hair cycle in murine skin and hair follicles. Overall, expression was slightly higher in human terminal hair bearing skin compared to corresponding vellus hair bearing skin. IAP protein expression was similar in unwounded DF(T) and DF(V) cells with the exception of Apollon which was higher in DF(V) cells. With the exception of XIAP and its direct antagonist Xaf1, mRNA expression was higher in DF(V) cells compared to corresponding DF(T) cells. FACS analysis demonstrated that DF(V) cells were more granular than matching DF(T) cells and proliferated faster. 17β-oestradiol accelerated migration of DF(T) cells only. Mechanical wounding decreased XIAP mRNA in DF(T) and increased it in DF(V) cells, while simultaneously decreasing Xaf1 expression. In unwounded cells, 17β-oestradiol stimulated the expression of XIAP mRNA in both DF(T) and DF(V) cells, but in scratched monolayers, while it also increased expression in DF(T) cells it decreased it in DF(V) cells. A XIAP inhibitor reduced cell viability in both DF(T) and DF(V) cells, which was rescued by 17β-oestradiol in unwounded and mechanically wounded DF(T) cells, but only in unwounded DF(V) cells. 17β-oestradiol decreased caspase 3 activity in the presence of a XIAP inhibitor only in DF(T) cells. These results demonstrate significant differences between dermal fibroblasts cultured from terminal and vellus hair bearing skin of the same individual. The correlation between an increase in XIAP in response to 17β-oestradiol and a higher number of viable cells, along with a reduction in caspase 3 activity suggests that the protective effect of 17β-oestradiol may be modulated via the regulation of XIAP. Further elucidation of these different signalling pathways in dermal fibroblasts from hair bearing skin may lead to improved therapies for chronic non-healing wounds, particularly in postmenopausal females.

It can be useful to discover a person’s chronic drinking consumption in child custody cases and to aid in the diagnosis of diseases like fetal alcohol spectrum disorder. When one alcohol marker in hair is analysed to indicate chronic use false negatives and false positives can occur. When two (ethyl glucuronide (EtG) and fatty acid ethyl esters (FAEEs)) are analysed false negatives and false positives can be recognized and provide stronger evidence as is underlined statistically in this work. For a combined method, the sample preparation and analytical procedures were optimized. The effect of the decontamination step was difficult to interpret, which shows that addressing issues with external contamination is challenging. Analytes may be extracted from the hair matrix during decontamination and analytes can diffuse into the hair shaft from external contamination. The last is illustrated by the incorporation via excretions of endogenous EtG and FAEEs. A novel and sensitive analytical procedure was developed and validated which saves time and possibly money compared to analysing of both markers separately. The best overall method had a linear calibration curve (r2 > 0:99) and an intra-day (n=3) and inter-day (n=9) accuracy for the quality control samples at three concentration levels between 84–118% with a coefficient of variation of 3–30% for both EtG and the FAEEs. The Bayesian approach was suggested as a new interpretation framework for hair tests, to account for the uncertainties in these tests in a transparent manner. In this work databases were constructed with EtG and FAEEs hair concentrations linked to the subject’s chronic alcohol use, the likelihood ratios were calculated and working examples were provided. This showed that a positive hair test for either EtG or FAEEs may very well be only ’limited’ evidence and therefore should only be used with a high prior odds. This means that a hair test result should not be used in isolation. The large confidence interval in this study also underlines the need for more control data.

One area of identity that challenges dominant ideals of professional, neat, or appropriate appearance is Black hair. Although Black hair expression is frequent in media, politics, and pop culture, there still remains a perceived stigma surrounding its presence in positions and environments (e.g. tenure positions or predominantly White institutions) that ironically promote a mission of diversity and inclusion. Black women, no matter their rate of graduation, level of intellect, status or achievement are not exempt from the challenges of bias, perception, stigma, stereotype or marginalization within majority White hierarchal spaces such as the academy. This includes Black female faculty who hold positions of high status, such as tenure. The presence of Black hair expression in these positions challenges others, as well as Black women, to accept images of Black beauty and Black identity. This study aims to explore how tenured Black female faculty navigate professional challenges with hair expression surrounding identity (i.e. sexism and racism) and the value of the Black visage in the academy. In addition, this study investigates and brings attention to current thoughts on Black hair perception, microaggressions, stigma, stereotype, and assimilation issues that Black female faculty experience with their hair as they navigate the academy.

abstract: This critical qualitative research study explores the discursive processes and patterns by which humor is gendered in hair salons and barbershops, in support of or resistance to hegemony, through an in-depth analysis and feminist critique of the humorous exchanges of hair stylists and barbers. This study extends prior feminist organizational research from Ashcraft and Pacanowsky (1996) regarding the participation of marginalized populations (i.e., women) in hegemonic processes, and argues that, despite changing cultural/demographic organizational trends, marginalized (as well as dominant) populations are still participating in hegemonic processes 20 years later. A focus on gendered humor via participant narratives reveals how various styles of gendered humor function to reinforce gender stereotypes, marginalize/exclude the "other" (i.e., women), and thus privilege hegemonic patterns of workplace discourse. This study contributes to existing feminist organizational scholarship by offering the unique juxtaposition of humor and gender from a diverse and understudied population, hair industry professionals. / Dissertation/Thesis / Doctoral Dissertation Communication Studies 2015

Submitted by Milena Rubi (milenarubi@ufscar.br) on 2016-11-17T18:09:38Z No. of bitstreams: 1 OLIVEIRA_Elisangela_2015.pdf: 17350237 bytes, checksum: a1efb77501c4df3e09734ffce33e70c1 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Milena Rubi (milenarubi@ufscar.br) on 2016-11-17T18:09:47Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 OLIVEIRA_Elisangela_2015.pdf: 17350237 bytes, checksum: a1efb77501c4df3e09734ffce33e70c1 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Milena Rubi (milenarubi@ufscar.br) on 2016-11-17T18:09:55Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 OLIVEIRA_Elisangela_2015.pdf: 17350237 bytes, checksum: a1efb77501c4df3e09734ffce33e70c1 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-11-17T18:10:11Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 OLIVEIRA_Elisangela_2015.pdf: 17350237 bytes, checksum: a1efb77501c4df3e09734ffce33e70c1 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-03-19 / Não recebi financiamento / One of the most remarkable and diverse physical characteristics among human beings - and, thus, fundamental for personal identity - is hair. The search for personal hair care products has been increasing in the last years and Brazil is the third largest consumer market for these products. There is a constant quest for cosmetic products able to align, relax and treat hair fibers. There are some products for this purpose, such as smart brushes, Japanese brushes and definitive brushes, among others. In this context, the aim of this project was to synthesize and characterize polyurethane obtained from a renewable source as well as evaluate its effectiveness as a hair treatment agent. Therefore, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), atomic force microscopy (AFM), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), nearinfrared reflectance spectroscopy (NIRS) and mechanical tests for tensile properties were used. The FTIR results confirmed the synthesis of the polyurethane. The polymer was associated with citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and sodium hydroxide with glycose, in order to increase adhesion of the polymer onto the hair fiber. After application, better hair fiber alignment and increased hair roughness were noticed. Through the spectroscopic analysis it was established that a chemical interaction between the polymer, its associations and hair was present. The micrographs also suggested that there was a deposition of the polymer on the hair fibers. The results indicated that the polyurethane and their associations with citric acid and sodium hydroxide with glycose, are promising for applications in hair care products. / Os cabelos constituem uma das características físicas mais marcante e variável dos seres humanos, tornando-se fundamental para a identidade pessoal. Assim, é cada vez maior a busca por produtos para os cuidados dos mesmos. O Brasil é o terceiro maior mercado consumidor de produtos para os cabelos, e existe uma busca constante pelas empresas do setor de cosméticos por produtos capazes de alinhar, relaxar e tratar os fios. Neste sentido podemos encontrar produtos para essa finalidade, com as mais variadas denominações, como as escovas: inteligente, japonesa, definitiva entre outras. Dentro desse contexto, o objetivo do presente projeto foi sintetizar e caracterizar um poliuretano a partir de um poliol obtido de fonte renovável, e avaliar sua eficácia após aplicação do mesmo visando tratamento capilar. Para tanto, foram utilizadas técnicas de microscopia eletrônica de varredura (MEV), microscopia de força atômica (AFM), espectroscopias de infravermelho por transformada de Fourier (FTIR) e espetroscopia de refletância no infravermelho próximo (NIRS) e ensaios mecânicos pelo módulo de tração. Os resultados de FTIR confirmaram a síntese do poliuretano, o qual foi associado aos Ácidos Cítrico, Glicólico, Lático e Hidróxido de Sódio com Glicose com o intuito de aumentar a aderência do polímero na fibra capilar. Após a aplicação verificou-se um melhor alinhamento dos fios e aumento na rugosidade. Através das análises de espectroscopia foi possível constatar que houve uma interação química entre o polímero, suas associações e os cabelos. As eletromicrografias também sugerem que houve uma deposição do polímero sobre as fibras do cabelo. Os resultados obtidos indicaram que o poliuretano e suas associações com ácido cítrico e hidróxido de sódio e com glicose, são promissores para aplicações em produtos capilares.