文化的變遷，戰後台灣飲食書寫已是多元而龐雜，八○年代末期始發表飲食篇章的韓良露，經過二十多年的耕耘，至今已有七冊共二百多篇飲食文本。韓良露以劇作家、電視製作人、生活美食家多重角色現身文壇，本非傳統純文學創作的身分，因此她的飲食書寫雜有旅行、電影、商業等元素，不易適切歸類。然而，其文本確實呈現了臺灣當代飲食書寫的另一種風格，即是在文化工業底下，展現文學大眾化的取向，擺脫前期單以懷舊為書寫筆調，用簡單的文字、真誠的心態、多方的飲食知識說美食、講人生、談生活，除了感性地藉飲食形塑情感記憶與成長歷程，以知性之眼凝視本土飲食文化的遞嬗外，更呼籲人們正視工業科技及全球化後所附帶的生活危機，積極倡導慢食運動，拉近人們與食物的距離，使讀者將嚴肅的知識文化輕鬆入口，立刻感受閱讀後片刻的沈醉與品味生命中的美好滋味。 本論文以韓良露飲食文本的歷史背景、主題思想、書寫策略、藝術表現為研究對象，分作六章論述。第一章緒論，主要說明個人的研究動機、研究範圍方法及論文架構。第二章歷史觀照與文化轉變，重點在探討戰後飲食文化、飲食書寫的發展概況，並且整理作家的家庭背景、成長過程、人生經歷。第三章韓良露飲食書寫主題，分別從記憶、旅行、情慾展開研究，盼由飲食有關的主題內容，覓得她的情感脈絡與生活感發。第四章韓良露飲食書寫策略，由時空概念、文化工業、隱喻系統、互文指涉、小品辨體分析其飲食文本的藝術魅力，目的在探討作家筆下塑造的美味情境。第五章韓良露筆下的飲食意識，以文化、生活、人生三方面疏通作家的生命哲理，指出作家對現代人飲食的隱憂與呼籲。第六章提出研究總結，找出韓良露飲食書寫的特色與定位，最後對於未來相關研究給予建議。 / With the transition of society and culture, post-war dietetic literature has become more diverse and complex. Han began to present the dietetic writings from 1980s and since then has produced 7 volumes with more than 200 dietetics texts. Although a playwright, producer and gourmet, Han is far from being a traditional creator of literature since the ingredients in her dietetic texts mix elements of travel, movies, and commerce. As a result, it is not easy to classify her texts. However, they have opened a new chapter in the expression of Taiwanese contemporary dietetic literature with a stylish flair for diet, lifestyle and living. All this is served up in simple digestible words for the masses that come flavored with a wealth of dietetic wisdom. Her works mold the memory of her passion for creating dietetic texts and a sensitive grasp of local dietary culture in transition. But she also alerts her readers to the challenges posed by the information age and globalization. Her solution is a ‘slow food’ campaign that will revive the tie of people with their food. This is aided by her writings that let readers indulge in the delicacies of life. The six-chapter thesis covers a historical background, threads of thoughts, writing strategies, and art performance of Han’s dietetic texts. The first chapter introduces motivation, methodology, and structure of the thesis. The second chapter (Historical Review and Cultural Transition) follows up to expound upon post-war dietetic culture, the development of dietetics writings and Han’s family background, growth, and life experience. The third chapter focuses on the theme of Han’s dietetic writings from the aspects of memory, travel and sexual passion. As can be expected, we can discover Han’s affection and passion for life. The fourth chapter (Han’s Dietetic Writing Strategies) analyzes the artistic fascination and discusses the delicious situation created by Han’s texts in terms of the concept of time and space, cultural industry, metaphorical system, intertextuality and essay differentiation. The fifth chapter (The Dietetic Consciousness of Han’s Texts) points out Han’s philosophy of life, secret worries and appeals through angles of culture, living and life. The sixth chapter (Conclusion) explores the features and position of dietetic writings, brings suggestions, and points to future research.

本文探討寫者如何將日常經驗轉化為文字作品，尤其如何將難以言喻的飲食經驗透過文字生動地表現。透過此問，試圖揭櫫經驗訴諸文字的過程，以及其間複雜交錯的課題。本文採用體現的取徑(embodied approach)，以當代飲食書寫為考察對象，擇取其中代表作家，蔡珠兒與謝忠道的文字作品與兩位作家的訪談資料，來詮釋經驗轉化為文字的脈絡，梳理經驗、身體感以及書寫之間的關係。本文的研究結果為，第一，書寫並非只是由「心」而完成的活動，也涉及「身體」的角色。第二，書寫並非是文字單純對應經驗的表徵過程，而是重新創造的過程，經驗、身體感與文字三者彼此相互作用，在書寫之下連動與共生。第三，本文以飲食書寫來關照書寫活動，重新揭示「書寫」的本質。最後，本文認為體現取徑可作為文學評論的全新視角，並以此對飲食書寫的寫作策略提出相關建議。 / The article explores how does a writer transform ordinary experiences into written languages, and how does he vividly express diet experiences that are beyond expressions. Based on these, this article tries to answer a sophisticated question about the relationship between experiences and languages. Taking the embodied approach to study contemporary food writing, this article discovers the context of experiences transforming into written languages, with representative written works and interviews by two writers, Jewel, Tsai and Chung-Tao, Hsieh. Also, with these materials, I explain the dynamic relationship among experience, bodily feeling and written language. The findings of this research include three points. First, writing activity is affected not only by human mind, but also by human body. Second, writing is not the simple process that languages represent experiences, however, it is the creative process that experiences, bodily feeling and languages interplay each other. Third, this article redefines the essence of writing. Especially, I think that the embodied approach is likely to be a method of literary criticism. On the basis of this approach, I suggest some writing strategies about the contemporary food writing.