Significant proportion of composite industry is currently produced using prepregs, cured in autoclave which is very expensive and time consuming process. Dry textile preforms in conjunction with liquid molding techniques can lead to significant reductions in material costs, manufacturing costs and cycle times. These dry preforms are typically 2D woven or braided fabrics which also required lay-up and have low interlaminar properties. Through thickness reinforcement provides solution for this problem as it gives better interlaminar properties as well as near net shape performing. Various 3D performing methods are discussed and reviewed in this research where 3D weaving comes out as ideal process to develop near net shape preforms with more efficiency and better material performance. This research highlights the advantages and limitations of conventional 3D weaving processes. A number of approaches for improving the flexibility of 3D weaving process have been presented including changing fiber architecture in different sections of the preform, tapering in the width and thickness directions and finally to change the fiber orientation. It is concluded that multi step and taper fabrics can be produced on conventional weaving by some modifications. Furthermore, a novel 3D weaving machine is designed and developed after reviewing various patents and weaving methods to overcome limitations of conventional weaving machine. Key criterions from limitations of conventional weaving processes are considered and modified such as multiple weft insertion, limited warp stuffer movement, linear take-up to develop 3D weaving machine. In order to achieve isotropic material, two textile technologies are combined to get final requirements. 3D weaving can provide us fibres in 0° and 90° direction with through thickness reinforcement, whereas braiding can satisfy the requirement of bias direction fibres. Near net shape preforms such as taper and multistep are produced and laminated. Preliminary testing is performed on these laminates to evaluate fibre architectures. Further work is required in terms of machine modification which can provide weave design flexibility to explore various multilayer weave architectures. Thorough testing is required to evaluate and define structure performance and effect of fibre damage during weaving process.

High-performance fibres such as carbon, glass and kevlar are very promising for aerospace applications because of their high strength, stiffness, impact damage and excellent fatigue life. The high cost of the prepreg materials such as pre-impregnated fibre tape/tow and fabrics, and limitations of existing manufacturing processes are a big challenge for the aerospace industry to meet increasing performance demands. Their benefits can only be achieved by using low cost materials and manufacturing methods. In the past three or four decades, there have been substantial technological developments, which are governed by the new materials and their associated manufacturing techniques. The production of carbon fibre is slow and capital intensive, therefore, carbon manufactures produce higher tow counts (number of filaments) to increase production through-put in order to reduce its cost. In other words, 12k carbon tow is much cheaper than 6k or 3k carbon tow. In many applications finer tows are desirable. In this thesis, a fully automated laser feedback tow splitting line has been developed to split higher tow counts (12k spool) into smaller tow counts (split into 6k spools) in order to produce low cost material. The quality of the split tows has been evaluated by recording the data online during the splitting process. The recorded data was later analysed by statistical tools. A four axis modular gantry robotic system has been developed at the University of Manchester in order to deposit dry fibres in a completely flexible manner. To facilitate robotic preforming, an end-effector and mould have been designed and developed in this research. The tow placement program was written in the CoDeSys software which is then uploaded into the motion controller to perform specific motions. The cross-ply laminates have been manufactured by the proposed robotic system using split 6k (produced by the tow splitting process) and original 12k carbon tows. Mechanical test of both composites (12k and split 6k) are presented. A tufting process has been developed and conducted by the robotic system in order to manufacture 3D preforms. The tufted composite was compared with 3D woven and stitched 2D broadcloth in terms of the tensile and interlaminar shear strength properties. X-ray tomography has been conducted to investigate preform geometrical variations of manufactured composites. In addition, preforming cost models have been developed for robotic fibre placement and 3D weaving.

Wind turbines are classic examples of structures where their operating lifetime is controlled by the fatigue properties of the material. This is exacerbated by the 2D nature of the composite materials used in blade construction which are typically fabrics in a variety of formats (e.g. non crimp fabrics, uniweave, woven). The formation of internal detailed shapes within the blade, allowing features such as spars, shear webs and other connections, inevitably requires these 2D material configurations to be formed into 3D shapes. This introduces positions within the structure where load transfer occurs across regions with no fibre reinforcement. These weak areas become natural positions for the initiation of damage that can occur well before fatigue damage would be expected in the basic material subject to simple in-plane loading. The aim of this study is to modify and improve the blade structure in order to extend its working life and minimize geometry related fatigue issues. To achieve this goal T-sections have been manufactured as representative element of the blade's spar. T-sections have been made of carbon or glass fabric infused with epoxy resin using a vacuum-assisted resin-transfer moulding technique. The structure has been modified with different toughening techniques to increase its interlaminar fracture resistance (toughness) and hence delay or stop crack propagation. Methods such as the use of veil layers, tufting and 3D weaving techniques have been employed to improve the interlaminar fracture toughness of the T-joint. The changing parameters in samples are, the addition of the veil layer to the composite structure, veil material, tufting stitches and use of different 3D fibre weaving architectures in the fabrication of the composite T-joint. For T-joint testing, there was no standardised specimen shapes and no standard for specimen dimensions; as well as no test fixture designs or test procedures. Consequently, it was required to design a test rig and develop a test procedure for tensile and fatigue tests of T-joints. An additional investigation was performed to establish test specimen geometry suitable for testing in available Instron machines. Manufactured specimens were quasi-static and fatigue tested. Test results were compared and showed that 3D woven and polyester veil T-joints had the best performance among modified structures. However, it has been found that these structural modifications are performing differently in quasi-static and fatigue loading. The 3D woven four layer to layer inter wave sample that showed the best result in a quasi-static test was not the one with the best fatigue results but it was amongst the ones with the highest performance. SEM and optical microscopy were used to investigate fractured specimens in an attempt to establish the mechanisms involved in the fracture process of the T-joint. Finally, based on test and investigations results it has been concluded that the 3D weaving was the most effective modification to improve the static and fatigue properties of the T-joint. The T-joint modified with polyester veil showed the second best performance in both static and fatigue tests but the addition of the polyamide caused had negative effects on these properties.

This work positions itself in the intersection between art, fashion and crafts. The work aims to challenge traditional ways of making clothes by investigating the relationship between material, form and body through a three dimensional hand weaving technique with focus on up-cycling. The design examples were conducted through a series of experiments where different objects were investigated as alternative weaving looms. The study resulted in five design examples that argue the importance to maintain and develop craft techniques and to give suggestions of how to address the environmental problems within the industry.

3D textile performs offer a high potential to increase mechanical properties of composites and they can reduce the production steps and costs as well. The variety of woven structures is enormous. The algorithms based on the conventional weaving notation can only represent the possible woven structures in a limited way. Within the scope of this dissertation, a new weaving notation was developed in order to analyze the multilayer woven structures analytically. Technological solutions were developed in order to guarantee a reproducible preform production with commingled hybrid yarns. Terry weaving technique can be utilized to create vertical connections on carrier fabrics, which makes it suitable for the development of complex profiles. A double rapier weaving machine was modified with electronically controlled terry weaving and pneumatic warp yarn pull-back systems. Various spacer fabrics and 3D profiles were developed. A linear take-up system is developed to assure reproducible preform production with a minimum material damage. Integrated cutting and laying mechanisms on the take-up system provides a high level of automation.

There is a link between the tactile and optical modes of perception. Woven textiles’ materiality and ability to take three dimensional form, make them a good medium for creating shapes containing several pattern scales and textures. By conciously working with tactile-visual qualities and aesthetics one can achieve the most powerful effects, and in turn, the textile can take the role of a sensation director. By interpreting Kasuri with large scaled threads on a computerized hand loom and in space, an exploration of details and spatial installation can be conducted simultaneously. The five examples developed in this project demonstrate different approaches to dimensional hand weaving, intending to build a better understanding of micro and macro spatial features in woven textiles. Significantly, the project challenges the scale of hand weaving as well as the design process: stretching from thread to dimensional weave empowers the designer. By highlighting crafted details on a large scale, a sequence of events can be discerned that makes the spectator aware of quality and of the production process. Parallels between the body of work and our perception of lines and interspaces are drawn as an attempt to refine our relation to the objects around us.

3D textile performs offer a high potential to increase mechanical properties of composites and they can reduce the production steps and costs as well. The variety of woven structures is enormous. The algorithms based on the conventional weaving notation can only represent the possible woven structures in a limited way. Within the scope of this dissertation, a new weaving notation was developed in order to analyze the multilayer woven structures analytically. Technological solutions were developed in order to guarantee a reproducible preform production with commingled hybrid yarns. Terry weaving technique can be utilized to create vertical connections on carrier fabrics, which makes it suitable for the development of complex profiles. A double rapier weaving machine was modified with electronically controlled terry weaving and pneumatic warp yarn pull-back systems. Various spacer fabrics and 3D profiles were developed. A linear take-up system is developed to assure reproducible preform production with a minimum material damage. Integrated cutting and laying mechanisms on the take-up system provides a high level of automation.

La technique du tissage consiste à créer un entrecroisement de fils perpendiculaires entre eux. Pour cela, il est nécessaire d'insérer un fil de trame à travers une nappe de fils de chaîne parallèles. L'étape de formation de la foule, consistant à séparer la nappe de chaîne pour libérer un espace d'insertion, est vecteur d'interactions interfilamentaires et de dommages induits dans la structure filamentaire. Un tel phénomène, rapporté au tissage de renforts de matériaux composites produit des dégradations de structure importantes et une diminution sensible des propriétés mécaniques du produit fini. Dans le contexte de la croissance du marché des matériaux composites haute performance à renforts tissés, il est nécessaire d'améliorer puis de maîtriser le procédé de tissage. Ainsi, pour optimiser le tissage d'étoffes multicouches à haute densité, nous disposons d’une machine Jacquard. Il s'agit d'une technique qui permet un pilotage individuel motorisé des fils de chaîne et qui offre des paramètres de foule particuliers. Le but de ces travaux sont d'étudier ces paramètres d'une part et de définir et analyser leurs effets sur le processus de tissage par ailleurs. Nous utilisons pour ces travaux du polyester multifilamentaire, ainsi qu'un dispositif de tissage particulier adapté au tissage technique multicouches. Nous constatons que le tissage multicouches de forte densité génère de nombreux frottements interfilamentaires qui dégradent les fils en provoquant de la fibrillation. L'observation de l'évolution de ce phénomène selon les différents paramètres Jacquard, permet tout d'abord de mieux le comprendre et le cerner. Elle permet ensuite de déterminer les configurations de tissage optimales pour assurer la qualité du tissage de renforts tissés. / Weaving basic structure is an orthogonally interlaced yarns plane, produced thanks to weft insertion across parallel warp yarns. Shedding is a major step for shed generation by warp yarns separation. Shedding may generate warp yarns interactions and yarn structure degradations because of density. Such a phenomenon becomes major with composite high density woven reinforcement where degradations and final product mechanical properties loss may become considerable. With high performance composites market growth, weaving process needs to be improved.A Jacquard shedding mechanism has been employed for high density multilayer woven fabric weaving optimization, as this technique enables warp yarns individual motorized driving with very particular shedding parameters. In this research, Jacquard shedding parameters have been studied so that their effects on the weaving process may be brought to light, with a specific weaving machine dedicated to multilayer weaving, where polyester multifilament yarns are used.It has been observed that high density multilayer weaving produces friction and many degradations during shedding between filaments because of the fibrillation phenomenon. Fibrillation has been examined and understood thanks to the observation of its evolution according to Jacquard shedding parameters. It has been the basis for optimal weaving parameter configurations which may be used for woven reinforcements composites quality improvement.

L'industrie aéronautique doit faire face aux nouvelles exigences environnementales, tout particulièrement concernant la réduction de la consommation des énergies fossiles. L'utilisation de matériaux composites plus léger permet de répondre en partie à cette attente. Pour limiter les coûts lors de la fabrication et du développement des composites à renforts tissés 3D, il est nécessaire d'utiliser des outils de simulation performants. En particulier, les outils existants, qui discrétisent à une échelle mésoscopique l'architecture des tissus 3D, ne tiennent pas compte de l'influence du procédé de fabrication sur la constitution de la structure textile. Si des outils numériques dédiés à la modélisation du procédé de tressage et de tricotage sont disponibles, il n'en est rien concernant le tissage. Cette étude avait donc pour but de s'intéresser plus particulièrement à la simulation du prodécé de tissage pour pouvoir obtenir une structure de tissu sèche déformée numériquement. La production de différentes architectures de tissu en verre E dans notre laboratoire nous a permis d'observer les différents éléments en contact avec le fil ou le tissu sur la machine à tisser, par le biais de l'utilisation d'une caméra rapide par exemple. Le développement d'un modèle numérique par éléments finis reproduisant le procédé de tissage a été réalisé. Une loi de comportement isotrope transverse fut utilisée pour modéliser les fils de verre. Des premières simulations numériques encourageantes pour la fabrication d'un tissu d'armure toile et d'un tissu d'armure croisé 2-2 sont présentées et comparées avec les tissus réels produits correspondants. / The aeronautical industry faces new challenges regarding the reduction of fossil fuel consumption. One way to address this issue is to use lighter composite materials. The ability to predict the geometry and the mechanical properties of the unit cell is necessary in order to develop 3D reinforcements in composite materials for these aeronautical applications. There is a difficulty to get realistic geometries for these unit cells due to the complexity of their architecture. Currently, existing tools which model 3D fabrics at a meso scale don't take into account manufacturing process influence on the shape modification of the textile structure. There is already some numerical tools that can model the braiding or knitting process, but none have been developed for weaving so far. Consequently, this study deals with the numerical simulation of the weaving process to obtain a deformed dry fabric structure. During the weaving process of E-glass fabrics, achieved in our laboratory, it has been observed that large deformations led to the modification of transverse section of meshes, or local density changes, that can modify the fabrics mechanical resistance. For this reason, a numerical tool of the weaving process, based on finite element modelling, has been developped to predict these major deformations and their influences on the final textile structure. The correlation between numerical results and fabrics produced with glass fibres has been achieved for plain weave and 2-2 twill.