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The purpose of this research was to test a conceptual model which examines consumer satisfaction/dissatisfaction (CS/D) with apparel retail stores and to investigate the moderating effects of shopping orientations and store type on confirmation/disconfirmation (C/DC) about quick response technologies (QRT) based attributes and CS/D with a retail store. Shopping orientation included fashion, economic, and time orientations. Store type included specialty chain, department, discount, and small independent stores. The conceptual framework for this study was based on retail strategic planning (Berman & Evans, 1992; Cory, 1988) and consumer satisfaction theory (Oliver, 1980). A convenience sample of 200 female apparel consumers was selected from a southeast city in the United States. The survey design employed a structured questionnaire with some open-ended questions. A questionnaire was pilot tested for content validity and instrument reliability. Descriptive statistics (Le., frequencies, percentages), multiple regressions, ANOVAs, and ANCOVA were used for data analysis to test the hypotheses. The response rate was 86.2 % for 200 usable responses. C/DC (i.e., QRT based, non-QRT based attributes) had significant effects on CS/D with apparel retail stores. The results supported the disconfirmation of expectation model (Oliver, 1980). C/DC of QRT based attributes (e.g. reduced stockout, fast turnaround of goods) have more influence on CS/D than C/DC of non-QRT based attributes (e.g., location of store, store hours). Results from a preliminary test indicated that QRT based attributes are improved by implementing QRT. The orientation of consumers is related to the level of C/DC of QRT based attributes, which determines CS/D. Fashion orientation, economic orientation, and store type were significant moderators between C/DC of QRT based attributes and CS/D with apparel retail stores. The retail QRT information assembled in the review of literature and the results of the study could help industry trade associations adjust their strategy for potential QRT adopters and promote QR implementation efficiently, and help retailers do strategic planning when they implement QRT. / Ph. D.

The youth market has been characterized as one of the most coveted market segments because of its spending power and tremendous potential for becoming lifetime customers (Bush, Martin, & Bush, 2004). The product market for adolescents is expected to grow to more than $208 billion by 2011, according to a report from market research firm Packaged Facts (Sass, 2007). Apparel, jewelry, and cosmetics are top product categories for adolescent girls and are important products used by adolescents to portray personal identity (Ossorio, 1995). Because of adolescents' buying power and the important role apparel plays in adolescents' lives, it is important for apparel marketers to understand the adolescent consumer market. The purpose of this research was to examine the relationship between each of three independent variables (i.e., reference groups, clothing symbolism, and clothing involvement) and adolescents' clothing purchase intentions and clothing behavior, and whether the three variables are predictors of adolescents' clothing purchase intentions and clothing behavior. Reference groups are a source of instrumental and emotional support, offering adolescents a sense of belonging during their physical, emotional, and cognitive adjustment (Blackwell, Miniard, & Engel, 2001). Adolescents may have many different types of reference groups. The reference groups included in the currents study were friends, popular girls, and parents. Specifically in the current study, ninth grade girls' perceptions of friends' clothing behavior, popular girls' clothing behavior, and parents' opinions concerning clothing behavior were examined for their relationship to the ninth grade girls' clothing purchase intentions and behavior. The second independent variable was clothing symbolism. Adolescents may use clothing as a symbol (i.e., clothing symbolism) to express their actual self-concepts or to attain their ideal self-concepts (Erickson, 1983; Solomon & Rabolt, 2004). Two types of clothing symbolism were included in the study: the degree of congruity between actual self-concept and the perceived images of four outfits (i.e., actual self and clothing image congruity) and the degree of congruity between ideal self-concept and the perceived images of four outfits (i.e., ideal self and clothing image congruity). The third independent variable was clothing involvement. Viera (2009) found that young consumers are highly involved with clothing. The degree of clothing involvement may be closely related to adolescent girls' clothing purchase intentions and their clothing behavior. A conceptual model that formed the framework for this study was developed by integrating several theories, propositions, and research findings in the literature. Based on the framework, 16 research questions were formulated. Focus groups provided input for questionnaire development, and four outfit images, one each considered sexy, conservative, springy, or sporty, were identified and included in the questionnaire. Before the main data collection, the questionnaire was pilot tested and revised. Data collection was conducted at three high schools in central Virginia, and 353 female students in the ninth grade participated. Standard and stepwise multiple regression analyses were used to address the research questions. Among the four outfit images, that with a sexy image was found to have the highest mean score for ideal self-concept, indicating that participants would most like to view themselves sexy. Results of a factor analysis for clothing involvement revealed three factors: clothing importance, clothing expressions, and clothing brand perceptions. Participants had fairly high mean scores for all three clothing involvement factors. Among those three factors, clothing importance had the highest mean. In addition, results showed that participants perceived that their friends and popular girls would most often wear the outfit with a sporty image, and they also perceived that their parents would most like them to wear an outfit with a sporty image. The sporty outfit image also had the highest mean for participants' clothing purchase intentions and clothing behavior among the four outfit images. Results of one of the stepwise regressions, for the sexy outfit image showed that perceptions of reference groups' clothing behavior or opinions (i.e., friends' clothing behavior, parents' opinions concerning clothing behavior, popular girls' clothing behavior), one type of clothing symbolism (i.e., ideal self and clothing image congruity), and one clothing involvement factor (i.e., clothing importance) predicted adolescent girls' purchase intentions for the outfit with a sexy image. The results for wearing clothing with a sexy image when hanging out with friends were slightly different from those for purchase intentions. For the behavior of wearing an outfit with a sexy image, the variable "perceptions of popular girls' clothing behavior" was not a predictor, but actual self and clothing image congruity was. For the springy outfit image, all the perceptions of reference groups' clothing behavior or opinions and actual self and clothing image congruity were the best predictors of participants' clothing behavior; however only friends' clothing behavior and popular girls' clothing behavior were significant predictors of adolescent girls' purchase intentions for this outfit image. For the conservative and sporty outfit images, only the perceptions of reference groups' clothing behavior or opinions predicted adolescent girls' clothing purchase intentions and clothing behavior. In conclusion, the research findings suggest a powerful relationship between adolescent girls' perceptions of reference groups' clothing behavior or opinions about clothing behavior and the girls' own clothing behavior and purchase intentions. Participants' perceptions of reference groups' clothing behavior or opinions were the best predictors of the participants' clothing behavior and purchase intentions for all four outfits. Furthermore, clothing symbolism (e.g., using a sexy outfit to express or attain a sexy image) appears to motivate ninth grade girls to wear clothing with a sexy or springy image. The girls would wear a sexy outfit to portray their actual self-concepts and attain their ideal self-concepts. They also would wear outfits with a springy image to portray themselves. Additionally, the more the participants in this study considered clothing to be important, the more likely they were to purchase and wear a sexy image outfit; however the participants indicated that, of the four outfit images in the study, they most purchase and wear clothing like the sporty image outfit the most for hanging out with friends in comparison to the other three outfit images. Based on the findings, suggestions and implications for parents, educators, and marketers were provided. / Ph. D.

Ideas for ways to use textiles and other materials as body coverings, or as a form of apparel decoration, as well as protection, continued to evolve throughout history. More complex ideas and outcomes developed with the advent of weaving, and rectangular shapes were draped in folds, tied, or wrapped around the body. An accepted practice in the apparel industry is seeking inspiration for ideas from a variety of people, places, and things. This practice of seeking inspiration from the environment leads to the question of whether copying is inherent within the apparel industry. History of costume research and study indicate that it is generally accepted that people wear differing apparel for each season of the year, with some repeat, or copying, in the same season in subsequent years. The terms counterfeiting, knocking-off, and copying are often used interchangeably, but further exploration of the terms show they are not the same. Counterfeiting has become, and remains a hot topic in the apparel industry, particularly in product development. Some designers have begun to challenge and demand their work be protected in some manner such as copyrights, trademarks, or patents. Questions and concerns abound among product developers. This study was exploratory in nature, seeking a definition, and identifying a specific point in the product development process, when a certain activity (i.e., copying) is more likely to be performed. Therefore, qualitative methods were used to achieve the objectives of the research. This research took a cross-sectional approach within a qualitative design study when selecting the participants. The cross-sections for the participants of this study were those participants in positions of direct influence on apparel product development. Analyzing the perceptions of the participants from the cross-sections in detail, inferences were made about the industry definition and method of copying, time of occurrence, and those most likely involved in decision making. The instrument for the study was an online survey with open-ended questions and fixed-response questions. Of the 20 participants, 11 accessed the survey with 10 choosing to participate. While some degree of similarity was observed in several of the definitions of copying, such as taking existing products to create new products, there was distinction when participants used phrases such as copying 'without changing anything' to 'copying the idea and concept.' Participants' definition of knocking-off can be summarized as a copy with variation in price point. Participants noted that the process of counterfeiting was an unauthorized or illegal copy of a product and often included copying labels or logos. Key reasons for copying products were reported as following trends and speed to market. / Ph. D.

Manufacturer's promotional support is an important factor in buyers' selection of their suppliers. Research into retail customers' needs examined apparel retail buyers' attitude and acceptance behavior toward manufacturer's promotional support, and the effects of retail organization's characteristics (i.e., orientation, size, and degree of centralization) on the attitude and acceptance behavior toward the promotional support. Promotional support items were categorized into four through literature review (i.e., promotional materials, monetary support, selling aids, motivation of salespeople). Differences between importance perception and offering frequency of promotional support, and differences between importance perception and acceptance and cooperation level with promotional support were also examined. A mail survey (postal or fax) was designed to collect data. Apparel retail buyers from one hundred apparel retail organizations with annual sales volume over $100 million, randomly selected from Hoovers Online Search on the internet, participated in the survey. Forty-eight organizations agreed to participate. A total of 397 questionnaires were mailed, with follow-up phone calls to increase the response rate. Data analysis was conducted on the 137 questionnaires out of 141questionnaires returned (response rate: 35.52%). Pearson's correlation coefficient revealed a positive relationship between importance perception and offering frequency of promotional support, and between importance perception and acceptance or cooperation level. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) revealed the existence of significant differences among levels of orientation and degree of centralization in apparel retail buyers' attitude and acceptance behavior toward three promotional support components (i.e., promotional materials, selling aids, motivating salespeople). Specific differences in attitude and acceptance behavior among levels of organizational variables are discussed, and some recommendations for apparel manufacturers' promotional support strategies to their specific retail customers are proposed. / Master of Science

Consumer satisfaction is key for retailers to retain loyal consumers. Retailers use apparel brands as a strategy to differentiate themselves in the market place, to attract potential consumers and to retain loyal consumers. Retailers have discovered the potential of the fuller figure sector as a lucrative market which can assist them to make profits and to increase their sales. The aim of this research is firstly to explore and describe the needs and expectations that the fuller figure South African working women have with branded career wear secondly, how they evaluate branded career wear apparel against the two broad quality dimensions namely functional and aesthetic dimensions and thirdly the problems they experience with the functional and aesthetic quality dimensions of branded career wear. The study also describes how fuller figure South African working women consumers further evaluate the branded apparel during the decision-making process which can ultimately lead to her either accepting or rejecting the branded career wear. This research is descriptive in nature, as an attempt is made to describe and understand how working fuller figure females evaluate branded apparel against certain quality dimensions and make decisions to purchase branded apparel to satisfy their needs. The Sproles and Burns’ (1994:264) decision-making model theoretical underpins the study. A quantitative research style was chosen for this study and the objectives and sub- objectives related to the needs and problems of the quality dimensions of the branded career wear were examined. A self-administered, structured questionnaire was designed to gain demographic information of the sample group, their store preferences, where they get their fashion information from as well as their needs and problems with regard to branded career wear apparel. Purposive sampling and snowball sampling techniques were used to select a sample of working fuller figure females in the Tshwane, South Africa area. The responses to the 150 questionnaires were coded, captured and analysed using descriptive and inferential statistics. The results of this study revealed that most of the respondents ranked the functional quality dimensions higher than the aesthetic quality dimensions. It is clear that most of the fuller figure consumers regard comfort as the most important need, followed by durability (that the material of the branded career wear should be of good quality). The sample group also regarded the emotional aesthetic aspects very important (that the styles are beautiful and make her feel feminine). It is contradictory, that these fuller figure working women experienced major problems with the quality dimensions that they ranked as highly important. The sample group experienced problems with fit at the functional and aesthetic level, although fit is one of the most important factors that consumers use during the evaluation of apparel items. This study makes certain recommendations to apparel retailers, fashion theorists and image consultants how to obtain optimal consumer satisfaction. The South African apparel retailers should take cognisance of the needs and problems of this growing market related to the functional and aesthetic quality dimensions. The study also revealed how age and income play a role regarding the needs and problems this sample group experienced with branded career wear and how this can influence their decision to either accept or reject a brand. The results contribute to the body of knowledge regarding the needs and problems of branded career wear apparel for the fuller figure market related to certain functional and aesthetic quality dimensions Copyright / Dissertation (MConsumer Science)--University of Pretoria, 2012. / Consumer Science / unrestricted

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Submitted by Mariana Dornelles Vargas (marianadv) on 2015-04-01T14:13:05Z No. of bitstreams: 1 from_basic.pdf: 1929821 bytes, checksum: 770b2c0180db6cf5fcf53dc88dc9f3f3 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2015-04-01T14:13:05Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 from_basic.pdf: 1929821 bytes, checksum: 770b2c0180db6cf5fcf53dc88dc9f3f3 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011-06-17 / CAPES - Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / This dissertation aims at explaining the elements involved with the upgrading processes in value chains. Empirical data about the upgrading processes of apparel production and consumption in Brazil is taken as a way to explore upgrading strategies in the context of a growing fashion industry. We assume that fashion has been a key element in the apparel production which responds to upgrading in apparel value chains, turning basic apparel into more valued products and services as they are embedded by particular social values recognized and legitimized as fashion trends. Consequently, fashion apparel is an enterprise which involves dealing with two different processes: (1) the tangible or material production process of apparel items and (2) the intangible or immaterial production process of fashion concept. To explain the two diverse but consonant processes, this study draws upon two theoretical approaches to unveil the value creation that leads to upgrading in apparel production. Both theoretical approaches feature value‐adding processes but in different ways: (i) the global apparel value chain industrial upgrading approach highlights the tangible production of apparel items through contractors industrial upgrading process and (ii) the fashion social embedded system approach focuses on intangible production of fashion concept or belief through a cultural upgrading process. Furthermore, bolstered on these two theoretical approaches and on empirical data, this study delineates three propositions to discuss and characterize the means by which upgrading occurs: (a) through a linear value chain configuration; (b) by way of a network system or (c) via 3 a loose chain. The results suggest that basic apparel production upgrades to fashion apparel production and consumption when different players intertwine, producing, sharing and/or incorporating intangible value‐adding activities such as designing and image‐making. The embedment of intangible value turns apparel players into hybrid forms casting doubt on the industrial/traditional upgrading approach of the apparel value chains. These hybrid forms reveal a broad perspective for upgrading in apparel production, highlighting a convergence of tangible and intangible activities related to apparel production in the realm of a fashion apparel loose chain. / Esta dissertação procura explicar os elementos envolvidos com os processos de progressão nas cadeias de valor. Dados empíricos sobre os processos de progressão da produção e do consumo de vestuário no Brasil são considerados como uma maneira de explorar estratégias de progressão no contexto de um setor de moda em desenvolvimento. Adotamos como premissa que a moda tem sido um elemento chave na produção de vestuário. A moda responde pela progressão das empresas nas cadeias de valor do vestuário, transformando o vestuário básico em produtos e serviços mais valorizados na medida em que eles são incorporados por determinados valores sociais reconhecidos e legitimados como tendências de moda. Conseqüentemente, o vestuário de moda é uma iniciativa que lida com dois processos diferentes: (1) o processo de produção tangível ou material de itens de vestuário e (2) o processo de produção intangível ou imaterial do conceito de moda. Para explicar esses dois diferentes, mas também convergentes processos, o presente estudo se baseia em duas abordagens teóricas para desvendar a criação de valor que leva à progressão na produção de vestuário. Ambas as abordagens teóricas apresentam os processos de agregação de valor, mas de maneiras diferentes: (i) a abordagem da progressão industrial na cadeia global de valor do vestuário destaca a produção tangível de itens de vestuário por meio do processo de progressão industrial dos contratados envolvidos na cadeia e (ii) a abordagem do sistema de moda impregnado por valores sociais que se foca na produção intangível 5 do conceito ou crença de moda através de um processo de progressão cultural dos agentes envolvidos no sistema. Ademais,, baseado nestas duas abordagens teóricas e em dados empíricos, este estudo propõe três proposições para discutir e caracterizar os meios pelos quais a progressão ocorre: (a) através de uma configuração linear de cadeia de valor; (b) por meio de um sistema em rede ou ( c) via uma cadeia flexível. Os resultados sugerem que a produção do vestuário básico progride para a produção e consumo do vestuário de moda quando diferentes agentes se envolvem nessa iniciativa, produzindo, partilhando e/ ou incorporando atividades de agregação de valor intangível como o design e a construção de imagem. A incorporação do valor intangível transforma os agentes produtores de vestuário em formas híbridas, lançando dúvidas sobre a abordagem da progressão industrial/tradicional das cadeias de valor do vestuário. Estas formas híbridas revelam uma ampla perspectiva para a progressão na produção de vestuário, com destaque para uma convergência de atividades tangíveis e intangíveis relacionados à produção de vestuário no âmbito de uma cadeia flexível de vestuário de moda.

Purpose – This thesis aims to contribute to the understanding of the Chinese customers’ perception and acceptance of eco-conscious apparel (ECA) based on the theory of planned behavior (TPB). The thesis further examines whether people would like to pay more for ECA and how the factor of willingness to pay a premium is influenced by TPB variables. Design/methodology/approach – The research design is based on quantitative methodology. The data were collected via a web-based survey, a total of 315 responses from Chinese consumers were analyzed with application of the structural equation modeling. Findings – Both attitude toward ECA and perceived behavioral control over ECA acquisition have positive influence on ECA purchasing intention. Willingness to pay a premium for ECA is only positively affected by subjective norm. There is no correlation between ECA purchasing intention and willingness to pay a premium for ECA. Implications – To raise Chinese customers’ purchasing intention, fashion company should focus their actions on disseminating environmental information and knowledge, and offer affordable ECA options with the properties close to traditional apparel. To evoke the willingness to pay a premium for ECA, fashion company can apply celebrity endorsement to add perceived social value into its ECA series. Such actions will contribute to formation of positive social norm and hence positive perception towards ECA. Meanwhile, the government can put more efforts into educating Chinese people about sustainability issues in fashion industry, formulating and implementing policies in favor of ECA consumption, so that a positive social atmosphere for ECA consumption could be created. Originality/value – This study is novel in applying TPB for examining the consumer purchasing of apparel containing recycled fiber in China. The thesis provides useful information to corporate practitioners on how to formulate ECA marketing strategies in China. Research findings are also of relevance for Chinese government by providing recommendations for formulating relevant policies to favor the ECA consumption.

Doctor of Philosophy / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Melody L. A. LeHew / The UN has challenged higher education to integrate sustainability across all disciplines, declaring 2005-2014 the Decade for Educational for Sustainable Development (DESD) (UNESCO, 2003). Education for sustainable development (ESD), a UNESCO initiative, advocates for reorienting education away from the industrial model of education, and has significant pedagogical implications for cultivating knowledge, skills, and values thought to support sustainable development (Rode & Michelsen, 2008; Sterling, 2004). Responsive action to this call has been sluggish (Everett, 2008; Rode & Michelsen, 2008). Concurrently, product development and design protocol is becoming more progressive in an effort to limit the impact of products on people and the planet, and there is an urgent need to evolve apparel and textile (AT) curriculum to better prepare undergraduates for this evolution. ESD may provide a way forward, but little is known about how it may succeed current educational practice or how such practice may impact learners in AT. The purpose of this study was to examine the learning and development experience of students enrolled in an apparel product development (APD) course that has been redeveloped according to the ESD framework. A qualitative case study was conducted during one semester to examine how students experienced the course. Data collection included student reflective writings, focus group interviews, and a researcher reflexive journal. Also, a survey was utilized to determine how students perceived their progress in the development of skills related to ESD. Both theory-driven and inductive coding procedures were used to identify themes across the qualitative data. A repeated measures ANOVA was used to analyze the quantitative survey data. Results of the study indicate that students yielded a positive, though challenging, learning and development experience in the course, and one that was considered exceptional in comparison to other courses in the same program. Among the learning and development outcomes experienced in the course considered most important, according to students, were sustainability literacy and the development of change agent skills. Further, the pedagogical perspectives of ESD which influenced the course redevelopment were perceived to be highly impactful. The study has identified pedagogical and curriculum design approaches which may be used to integrate sustainability more effectively into the AT curriculum and better foster the development of change agent skills.