Thesis (M.S.)--University of Wisconsin--Madison, 1965. / eContent provider-neutral record in process. Description based on print version record. Bibliography: l. 34-36.

This item was digitized as part of the Million Books Project led by Carnegie Mellon University and supported by grants from the National Science Foundation (NSF). Cornell University coordinated the participation of land-grant and agricultural libraries in providing historical agricultural information for the digitization project; the University of Arizona Libraries, the College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, and the Office of Arid Lands Studies collaborated in the selection and provision of material for the digitization project.

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Kroppsuppfattning är starkt sammankopplad med passform på kläder. Med hjälp av kläder kan vi framhäva det vi är nöjda med men likaså dölja det vi är mindre nöjda med. Att skapa kläder som verkligen passar för sin målgrupp är den svåraste men också viktigaste utmaningen för konfektionsföretag. Studien genomförs därför som ett uppdrag för ett konfektionsföretag med syftet att undersöka hur god passform i överdels-plagg skapas. God passform kan beskrivas utifrån fem faktorer; trådrak, släthet, linje, rörelsemån och balans. För att uppnå god passform arbetar de flesta företag inom konfektionsbranschen med grund¬mönster. Utvärdering av passform sker kontinuerligt under hela produkt¬utvecklingsfasen genom avprovning och avmätning. Forskaren har en central roll i studien och kommer att vara aktivt involverad i processen för att föra projektet framåt. Inledningsvis kommer tre blusgrunder att arbetas fram. Därefter kommer en befintlig blusmodell med balansfel att analyseras och justeras. Denna justering ska sedan sammanställas i ett dokument för att kunna användas i produktion. Att arbeta med så bra utformade grundmönster som möjligt är själva utgångspunkten för studien. Liksom passform är balans en central del i undersökningen. Att justera balansen mellan fram- och bakstycke kan göras genom höjning av inre axelspets. Jag har främst använt mig av litteratur som jag känner till för att kunna fokusera på att hinna genomföra alla delmoment i uppdraget. Eftersom alla steg är uppfyllda kan detta ses som en verifiering på att de åtgärder som har genomförts också har fungerat. Eftersom undersökningens specifika passformsproblem handlade om balans skulle det vara intressant att fortsätta forska på det området. Att arbeta med bystinsnitt kan också förbättra balansen. Det skulle därför vara intressant att jämföra detta med höjning av inre axelspets för att se hur dessa två metoder påverkar ett plagg i övrigt. Body image is strongly linked to the fit of clothing. Clothing can enhance the areas of our body that we are contempt with as well as disguise the ones we are not so satisfied with. The hardest, but also the most important challenge for a clothing company, is to create clothes that really fit their customers. The purpose of this study is to investigate how good fit is created in upper garments. The study is carried out as an assignment for a clothing company. Fit is accomplished by five factors; grain, set, line, ease and balance. To achieve a good fit, most companies in the clothing industry are working with basic patterns. Evaluation of fit is carried out through the whole product development phase with the help of fitting session and measuring of the garments. The researcher has a key role in this survey and will be directly involved in the process to ensure constant progress. Initially, three basic patterns for blouses will be constructed. Then a blouse with balance issue will be analyzed and adjusted. This adjustment will be documented as general description for altering upper garments with balance issues. The main focus of this study is to achieve as good basic patterns as possible. Along with fit, balance is also an important subject in the survey. Adjusting the balance in a garment can be accomplished by raising highest point of shoulder. I have mainly used literature that I am familiar with to be able to focus more on accomplishing my assignment. All steps are fulfilled which means that actions taken throughout the study have been accurate. It would be interesting to further explore fitting problems regarding balance. The use of darts is another way to enhance balance. It would therefore be of most interest to compare this to raising highest point of shoulder and especially look at differences in these two methods. / Program: Designteknikerutbildningen

Submitted by Filipe dos Santos (fsantos@pucsp.br) on 2018-11-07T12:23:48Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Lilian Tavares de Bairros Ferreira.pdf: 4897470 bytes, checksum: b22795e948ca9ff931e015d8069facfe (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-11-07T12:23:48Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Lilian Tavares de Bairros Ferreira.pdf: 4897470 bytes, checksum: b22795e948ca9ff931e015d8069facfe (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-09-14 / Conselho Nacional de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico - CNPq / The aim of this study is to discuss the participation of women in the Integralist movement in the city of Santos between 1932 and 1937. This thesis recovers stories from the feminist movement and women‘s fights in the harbor city of Santos. Also, it shows how the leaders of the Integralist movement perceived the possibility of engaging women among their militants. Thus, the Integralism tried to attract women with speeches about defending the family and Catholicism; in order to do so, they proposed that women would participate more effectively in the institutional politics by assigning functions to the group of women whom participated in the movement. In the development of this research, it was possible to observe that the Blusas-Verdes ("Green Blouses", as the women who acted within the Brazilian Integralist Action – AIB were called) operated in well-defined roles: activities in the educational segment, assistance to poor children, matters of public health and preventive medicine. Therefore, the aim of this research is to observe the relations and the development of women‘s participation in the Integralist center of Santos / Este trabalho discute a participação das mulheres no movimento integralista na cidade de Santos entre os anos de 1932 e 1937. A dissertação recupera histórias do movimento feminista e das lutas das mulheres na cidade-porto de Santos. Além disso, mostra como a liderança do movimento integralista percebeu a possibilidade de engajar as mulheres entre seus militantes. Desta forma, o integralismo buscou atrair as mulheres apregoando o discurso em defesa da família e do catolicismo; para tanto, propuseram uma participação feminina mais efetiva na política institucional, outorgando papéis aos grupos de mulheres no movimento. Pela pesquisa desenvolvida, pode-se observar que as Blusas-Verdes (como eram chamadas as mulheres que atuavam dentro da AIB) operavam em funções bem definidas: atividades no setor educacional, assistencialismo às crianças pobres, questões de saúde pública e medicina preventiva. Portanto, o que se pretende nesta pesquisa é observar as relações e a relevância das atuações femininas no núcleo integralista santista