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Clothing computer-aided design system In this work I analysed and explored the usage and necessity of Information Technologies in the latter-day garment industry companies. I also reviewed the main sectors of this area that need to be automated with the help of computers. It was found it is necessary to simplify the wear draughtsmen’s job by introducing the Automated designing system. I found that most of the designers are still using pencil and paper to translate their ideas into action. This obviously protracts the whole process of creation of clothing. Time consuming drawing of the sketch, transfer of the sketch to the constructor, correction of the errors and many more other aspects could be improved. Also, after analysis of wear designing systems was carried out, it was noticed that the choice of software designed specially for modelling of clothes is very poor. Majority of the systems are integrated into the whole clothes designing software package and works there only as one of the accessories. Naturally the price of such software packages is very high. That means if you want to get a clothes modelling tool you have to purchase the entire software package and it leads to a change of a current system that is in use. This results in a very high cost of installation of the new system and staff training. For all the reasons above, I decided to create a separate and stand alone clothes modelling tool. To program it I used Java virtual machine therefore this software works... [to full text]

Research has been carried out in the study of cloth modelling over many decades. The more recent arrival of computers however has meant that the necessary complex calculations can be performed quicker and that visual display of the results is more realistic than for the earlier models. Today's textile and garment designers are happy to use the latest two dimensional design and display technology to create designs and experiment with patterns and colours. The computer is seen as an additional tool that performs some of the more tedious jobs such as re-drawing, re-colouring and pattern sizing. Designers have the ability and experience to visualise their ideas without the need for photo reality. However the real garment must be created when promoting these ideas to potential customers. Three dimensional computer visualisation of a garment can remove the need to create the garment until after the customer has placed an order. As well as reducing costs in the fashion industry, realistic three dimensional cloth animation has benefits for the computer games and film industries. This thesis describes the development of a realistic cloth drape model. The system uses the Finite Element Method for the draping equations and graphics routines to enhance the visual display. During the research the problem of collision detection and response involving dynamic models has been tackled and a unique collision detection method has been developed. This method has proved very accurate in the simulation of cloth drape over a body model and is also described in the thesis. Three dimensional design and display are seen as the next logical steps to current two dimensional practices in the textiles industry. This thesis outlines current and previous cloth modelling studies carried out by other research groups. It goes on to provide a full description of the drape method that has been developed during this research period.

Actualmente, existen varias tiendas por departamentos y tiendas online las cuales ofrecen prendas de vestir de las mejores marcas y tendencias. Sin embargo, es muy común escuchar a las mujeres que no están conformes con las prendas que se venden en dichos lugares, ya sea por el color o modelo de la prenda. Además, este inconveniente les genera largas colas en los vestidores, y tener que esperar mucho tiempo para pagar el producto. Ante dicha problemática, Musas Factory viene a ofrecer a las mujeres un servicio de confección personalizada y envío de prendas mediante un aplicativo móvil. El mercado potencial que se ha estimado es 36,988 personas. Para ello, primeramente se elaboró un Business Model Canvas, en el cual se pudo analizar el giro del negocio desde varios aspectos. Además, se determinó el tamaño de mercado del negocio, lo cual fue un punto importante ya que se pudo corroborar si es que existía demanda del negocio que se propone. En relación a las validaciones se decidió plantear 5 hipótesis para validar los cuadrantes del Business Model Canvas, y mediante el concierge, se determinó la intención de compra. También, se optó por elaborar los planes estratégicos vinculados a las decisiones de producto, precio, plaza y promoción. Para concluir con el trabajo, se efectuó los planes financieros, en el cual se hizo uso de un análisis proyectado para tres años y así como también se calculo los ratios para evaluar la rentabilidad y viabilidad del proyecto. / "Currently, there are several department stores and online stores which offer clothing from the best brands and trends. However, it is very common to hear that women are not satisfied with the clothes sold in these places, either because of the color or model of the garment. In addition, this inconvenience generates long queues in the locker rooms, and having to wait a long time to pay for the product. Faced with this problem, Musas Factory comes to offer women a personalized clothing service and garment delivery using a mobile application. The estimated potential market is 36,988 people. For this, firstly a Business Model Canvas was developed, in which the business could be analyzed from various aspects. In addition, the market size of the business was determined, which was an important point since it could corroborate if there was a demand for the proposed business. Regarding the validations, it was decided to propose 5 hypotheses to validate the quadrants of the Business Model Canvas; and through the concierge, the purchase intention was determined. Also, it was decided to elaborate the strategic plans related to product, price, place and promotion decisions. To conclude the work, the financial plans were made, in which a projected analysis for three years was used, and the ratios were also calculated to evaluate the profitability and viability of the project. / Trabajo de investigación

Clothing is the primary means that wilderness backpackers have to protect themselves from injuries and illnesses that can occur while hiking in the cold. The current method of layering clothing may not meet backpackers' needs for both thermal insulation and heat dissipation, particularly in areas of the body that produce greater sweat, and during times of high physical exertion. No previous studies have addressed backpackers' needs for thermal and moisture comfort in different body areas within a single layer garment. The purpose of this study was to design and evaluate a single-layer garment of different textiles, to improve the physiological comfort of male backpackers hiking in cold winter weather conditions. The objectives of this study were to identify the physiological comfort needs of male backpackers hiking in the cold, to design a prototype backpacking shirt to improve comfort, and to evaluate the comfort and performance of the prototype over time, in comparison to a control. Male backpackers were recruited from a wilderness therapy company in Bend, Oregon, where subjects' employment duties included regularly backpacking in the cold. Qualitative data was collected by interviewing the subjects about their physiological comfort needs, types of garments and materials worn, dissatisfactions and preferences with hiking clothing, and locations on the body that need better attention to thermal and moisture comfort. Information provided by the qualitative interviews was used to develop design criteria. From the guarded hot plate and moisture management testing, results were used to select one thermal insulation, moisture management, and control fabric for the garment design. Based on the design criteria, a prototype shirt was developed. A prototype garment was constructed using the combination of the thermal, moisture, and control fabrics; while a control garment was constructed in an identical style using only the control fabric. The prototype and control garments were worn and tested by subjects while they backpacked. Additionally, comparisons of thermal insulation data between the prototype and control garment were collected on a thermal manikin. Major findings from the qualitative interviews were that subjects preferred base layer shirts made with synthetic fibers and style features that helped retain body heat. Subjects preferred to have greater thermal insulation in the chest and the arms, and less thermal insulation in the underarms and upper back area. Additionally, subjects were concerned about durability. A polyester fleece pile-knit was selected for the thermal insulation fabric and located in the arms and chest of the prototype. The moisture management fabric selected was a polyester fiber mesh knit fabric and was located in the upper back, underarms, and side seams of the garment. The control fabric was a brushed polyester double knit fabric and was located in all other body areas of the prototype and in the entire control garment. The wear test data indicated that both the control and prototype garments were perceived to be comfortable. The prototype had slightly better overall comfort than the control, and there were significant differences found between the prototype and the control in the areas of overall comfort, combined thermal comfort, and combined moisture comfort. The prototype did not consistently have better comfort performance than the control in each trial and for each subject. It was found that the prototype and control shirts could be worn without additional layers when the temperatures were above 35 ��F and 40 ��F, respectively. Thermal manikin testing results confirmed that the overall thermal insulation of both test shirts was equal, but that the prototype had greater or less thermal insulation than the control in specific body areas, depending on the placement of the thermal insulation or moisture management fabric. In summary, the prototype shirt designed in this study has accomplished the goal of providing backpackers' physiological comfort needs identified in the qualitative interviews.�� The design prototype, when worn alone, is able to keep backpackers comfortable when hiking in cold conditions, particularly in temperatures above 35��F. Although not intended to be worn as part of a layer system, the prototype also keeps backpackers comfortable when they are wearing multiple clothing layers. The use of different fabrics in different body areas satisfies the backpackers' needs of both retaining and dissipating body heat with changes in physical activity. Although both the prototype and the control shirts were found to have good thermal, moisture, and overall comfort, the prototype had slightly higher overall comfort ratings than the control.�� In addition, both the prototype and the control were perceived to be better than the subjects' own base layer shirts, and all subjects were willing to recommend the shirts to other hikers. / Graduation date: 2013

Since the establishment of the first European fashion houses in the nineteenth century the male wardrobe has been continually appropriated by the fashion industry to the extent that every masculine garment has made its appearance in the female wardrobe. For the womenswear designer, menswear’s generic shapes are easily refitted and restyled to suit the prevailing fashionable silhouette. This, combined with a wealth of design detail and historical references, provides the cyclical female fashion system with an endless supply of “regular novelty” (Barthes, 2006, p.68). Yet, despite the wealth of inspiration and technique across both male and female clothing, the bias has largely been against menswear, with limited reciprocal benefit. Through an exploration of these concepts I propose to answer the question; how can I use womenswear patternmaking and construction technique to implement change in menswear design?

Chan Cheung Shing. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2007. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 88-90). / Abstracts in English and Chinese. / Abstract --- p.ii / Acknowledgements --- p.iv / Table of Contents --- p.v / List of Figures --- p.viii / List of Tables --- p.xii / Abbreviations and Notations --- p.xiii / Chapter Chapter 1 --- Introduction --- p.1 / Chapter 1.1 --- Background and Objective --- p.1 / Chapter 1.2 --- Contribution --- p.4 / Chapter 1.3 --- Thesis Outline --- p.5 / Chapter Chapter 2 --- System Architecture --- p.6 / Chapter 2.1 --- Conceptual Design --- p.6 / Chapter 2.2 --- Sensing Device and Fall-Detection Algorithm --- p.7 / Chapter 2.3 --- Mechanical Part --- p.10 / Chapter Chapter 3 --- Mechanical Design --- p.11 / Chapter 3.1 --- Similar Products --- p.11 / Chapter 3.1.1 --- Airbag Restraining Systems in Automobiles --- p.11 / Chapter 3.1.2 --- Airbag Jackets for Motorcycle and House Riders --- p.12 / Chapter 3.2 --- Mechanism adopted --- p.12 / Chapter 3.2.1 --- Time Requirement of Inflator --- p.12 / Chapter 3.2.2 --- Mechanism and Design --- p.13 / Chapter 3.2.3 --- Actuator --- p.14 / Chapter 3.2.4 --- Punch --- p.15 / Chapter 3.2.5 --- Airbags --- p.18 / Chapter 3.2.6 --- Other Mechanisms Tried --- p.19 / Chapter 3.3 --- Prototype --- p.21 / Chapter 3.3.1 --- Implementation --- p.21 / Chapter 3.3.2 --- Demonstration --- p.23 / Chapter Chapter 4 --- Inflation Estimation --- p.25 / Chapter 4.1 --- Theory and Model --- p.25 / Chapter 4.2 --- Validation of Model --- p.28 / Chapter 4.2.1 --- Testing Equipment --- p.28 / Chapter 4.2.2 --- Preprocessing of Pressure Sensor Outputs --- p.28 / Chapter 4.2.3 --- Validation for Basic Equations --- p.29 / Chapter 4.2.4 --- Adjustment of Discharge Coefficients --- p.36 / Chapter 4.2.5 --- Validation for Discharging to a Fixed Volume --- p.40 / Chapter 4.2.6 --- Estimation of the Size of Airbag's Leakage Hole --- p.45 / Chapter 4.2.7 --- Validation for Discharging to an Airbag --- p.47 / Chapter 4.2.8 --- Time Delay due to Addition of a Pipe --- p.52 / Chapter 4.3 --- Summary of Experiments --- p.53 / Chapter 4.4 --- Limitation of Model --- p.54 / Chapter 4.5 --- Prediction of Inflation Time and Airbag Pressure --- p.55 / Chapter 4.5.1 --- Effects of Orifice Size and Vent Size on Airbag Pressure and Volume --- p.55 / Chapter Chapter 5 --- Force Attenuation Estimation --- p.58 / Chapter 5.1 --- Theory and Model --- p.58 / Chapter 5.1.1 --- Kelvin-Voigt Model --- p.59 / Chapter 5.1.2 --- Standard Linear Solid Support Model --- p.59 / Chapter 5.2 --- Simple Testing for Validation --- p.61 / Chapter 5.3 --- Summary of Experiment --- p.64 / Chapter 5.4 --- Estimation --- p.64 / Chapter 5.4.1 --- Force Attenuation Ability of Prototype --- p.64 / Chapter 5.4.2 --- Minimum Airbag Volume and Pressure Required to Reduce the Force --- p.65 / Chapter Chapter 6 --- Future Work --- p.66 / Chapter 6.1 --- Impact Test for Airbag System --- p.66 / Chapter 6.2 --- The Effective Mass of the Target User --- p.67 / Chapter 6.3 --- The Motion Data Collection --- p.68 / Chapter 6.4 --- Modification in the Inflator --- p.69 / Chapter Chapter 7 --- Conclusion --- p.70 / Appendix A Review of Basic Thermodynamics and Fluid Dynamics --- p.72 / Chapter A.1 --- Thermodynamics --- p.72 / Chapter A.2 --- Fluid Mechanics: Incompressible and Compressible Flow --- p.75 / Appendix B Derivation of Equations --- p.77 / Chapter B.1 --- Mass Flow Rate Equations --- p.77 / Chapter B.2 --- Relationship between Rate of Changes of Airbag Pressure and Volume --- p.80 / Chapter B.3 --- Pressure Change of Compressed Gas Cylinder --- p.82 / Chapter B.4 --- Dominating Factors in the Mass Flow Rate Equation --- p.83 / Appendix C Dimensions of Inflator --- p.85 / Appendix D Experimental Data --- p.86

Objective: The goal of this research was to explore how the design of clothing, specifically the design of the suit, can create height illusions. Background: Taller people enjoy many advantages, such as increased income and perceived attractiveness. These advantages motivate people to try to appear taller than they actually are, and clothing experts provide advice on how to accomplish this. However, there is little empirical evidence to validate the illusory effects clothing might have on overall height perception. The few studies that have explored illusions of body size created by clothing design have been limited in two important ways – the test stimuli have included unnatural body shapes and have failed to include naturalistic context (i.e., surrounding depth and size cues available in real scenes). Method: In the first phase, participants (nonexperts in clothing design) provided suggestions for how to appear taller by changing clothes. In the second phase, participants 1) viewed photographs of a variety of targets wearing suit designs that are commonly believed to manipulate viewers’ perceptions of height, 2) rated the targets on traits associated with height such as income and attractiveness, and 3) estimated the heights of these individuals. This study focused on the potential effects of suit color, specifically overall lightness (light vs. dark) and monochromaticity (monochromatic vs. lightness blocking). The effects of these designs were tested with and without contextual information by presenting targets within a natural streetscape or on a white background. Results: In the first phase, we found that nonexperts provided similar suggestions as experts in clothing design, including those pertaining to monochromaticity and lightness. In the second phase, we found that estimates were more accurate with more contextual information, and that clothing can impact height estimations, where monochromatic outfits yielded taller height estimates, although other outfit comparisons did not have effects. Outfits overall did not impact ratings such as income and attractiveness, although estimated height did correlate with these same social attributes. In an exploration of the impact of contextual and target-specific cues other than clothing on height estimations, we found that height perception was potentially dependent on a variety of factors such as the target's race, location (indoors vs. outdoors), stance, and the presence of nearby people. Scientific merit: This study increased our understanding of the conditions under which illusions of size in simple geometric stimuli generalize to the manipulation of size perception in real-world scenes. Broader impact: A better understanding of biases in height perception is relevant to domains in which such estimates are used to identify individuals (e.g., criminal justice) as well as domains in which visual characteristics of individuals are associated with errors in judgments of performance-based merit. (e.g., personnel selection and promotion).