L’objectif de cette recherche est de reconstituer la culture ou les cultures vestimentaire(s) dans les Philippines espagnoles au XIXe siècle et de mettre en exergue l’importance du vêtement dans cette société coloniale. Cette étude explore les interactions, uniques et complexes, entre le vêtement et les apparences, d’une part, et, d’autre part, les catégories raciales, sociales et culturelles dans le contexte des changements sociaux, culturels et économiques qui sont intervenus entre 1820 et 1896. L’objectif est de restituer la vie coloniale en s’appuyant sur le vêtement dans la mesure où il permet d’aborder de nombreux problèmes raciaux, sociaux, économiques et de genre qui agitent les Philippines de cette époque. Pour la première fois, l’étude des vêtements est ici utilisée pour comprendre les changements socio-culturels et économiques qui sont intervenus dans la société coloniale des Philippines au XIXe siècle. Les différents groupes raciaux et sociaux philippins sous domination espagnole sont analysés à travers leurs vêtements. Cette étude des pratiques vestimentaires aux Philippines s’inscrit dans le contexte d'une société coloniale pluriethnique et pluriculturelle. Après des siècles de colonisations, les Philippines du XIXe siècle étaient – et, dans une certaine mesure, restent – un amalgame de cultures autochtone, occidentale et chinoise. L’analyse des pratiques vestimentaires comme élément de l’histoire coloniale s’inscrit, plus largement, dans l’étude des interactions culturelles, des modes de vie coloniaux, des relations humaines et des comportements sociaux. Le vêtement et les apparences ont été analysés avec l’objectif de mieux comprendre les hiérarchies ethniques, sociales et de genre à cette époque. Cette recherche prétend dépasser les frontières académiques entre les catégories des études philippines, de l’histoire coloniale et de l’étude du vêtement. / The purpose of this research is to reconstruct the clothing culture of 19th century Spanish Philippines and to discover the importance of dress in Philippine colonial society. This study explores the unique and complex interplay of clothing and appearance with race, class and culture in the context of the social, cultural and economic changes that took place between 1820 and 1896. The objective is to recreate an impression of colonial life by turning to clothes to provide insights on a wide range of race, class, gender and economic issues. For the first time, this uses the study of clothing to understand the socio-cultural and economic changes that took place in 19th century Philippine colonial society. The different racial and social groups of the Philippines under Spanish colonization were analyzed in light of their clothing. This locates the study of Philippine clothing practices in the context of a multi-ethnic, multi-cultural colonial society. After centuries of colonization, 19th century Philippines was – and continues to be- an amalgam of indigenous, Western and Chinese cultures. This study of clothing practices as an element of colonial life points to a broader study of cultural interactions, colonial lifestyles, human relations and social behavior. Clothing and appearance were analyzed to understand the ethnic, social and gender hierarchies of that period. This work crosses the frontiers between the disciplines of Philippine studies, colonial history and costume studies.

Gegenstand der vorliegenden Dissertation ist die Kleidungsgeschichte der DDR. Der wissenschaftliche Forschungsstand weist in diesem Zusammenhang Lücken auf – bisher erfolgte keine Aufarbeitung des Themengebiets im Kontext der kulturellen, gesellschaftlichen und wirtschaftlichen Entwicklung in der DDR. Die unterschiedlichen Phasen von Politik- und Wirtschaftsentwicklung in der DDR haben jedoch Einfluss auf die Gestaltung und Entwicklung von Kleidung genommen. Die Kleidungsgeschichte der DDR ist Teil der Designgeschichte der DDR. Entgegen bisherigen Forschungen zur Design- und Kulturgeschichte, in denen die Auseinandersetzung mit Kleidung und Mode zurücktrat, zeigte sich, dass auch die Designströmungen in der DDR die Kleidungsgestaltung, in dem Fall die Inspirationen der Designer und Designerinnen, beeinflusst haben. Im Zentrum der Fragestellung steht die Untersuchung der Entwicklung von Kleidung zu Mode. So geht die Arbeit der Frage nach, ob es eine eigene Mode – eine sozialistische Mode – in der DDR gab. Dabei hat sich gezeigt, dass die DDR als eigenständiger Kulturraum aufgefasst werden muss. Mode bedarf somit einer eigenen Begriffsdefinition sowie Entstehungsgeschichte im Kontext der DDR. Vor dem Hintergrund der aktuellen wissenschaftlichen und gesellschaftlichen Debatte zur DDR ergibt sich die methodische Herangehensweise der Untersuchung: Die Untersuchung des Forschungsbereichs mit Berücksichtigung der Perspektive von Zeitzeugen und Zeitzeuginnen – den Menschen, die aktiv in der Kleidungsindustrie der DDR tätig waren. Die Arbeit gründet somit auf der Methodik der Oral History und hat zum Ziel, die Kleidungsgeschichte der DDR in ein neues Licht zu rücken. / The subject of this dissertation is the clothing history of the GDR. There are gaps in the state of scientific research in this context – so far, the subject has not been dealt with in the context of cultural, social and economic development in the GDR. However, the different phases of political and economic development in the GDR have influenced the design and development of clothing. The clothing history of the GDR is part of the design history of the GDR. Contrary to previous research on the history of design and culture, in which the examination of clothing and fashion receded, it became apparent that the design trends in the GDR also influenced clothing design, in this case the inspirations of the designers. The central question is the investigation of the development from clothing to fashion. Thus, the work explores the question of whether there was a fashion of its own - a socialistic fashion - in the GDR. It has been shown that the GDR must be seen as an independent cultural area. Therefore fashion needs its own definition of terms and its own history of origin within the context of the GDR. Regarding the current scientific and social debate on the GDR, the methodological approach of the study is focused on the perspective of contemporary witnesses - the people who were actively involved in the clothing industry of the GDR. The work is thus based on the methodology of oral history and aims to shed new light on the clothing history of the GDR.

The issue of a Muslim woman‟s dress code has been debated for centuries. This is of great importance as it is widely used as a criterion to measure the extent of a woman‟s piety or devotion to Allah. A study of the religious texts on the issue is essential. Therefore, Qur‟anic text, Prophetic Traditions and Qur‟anic exegesis of both classical and modern scholars would have been used in determining the correct dress code for Muslim women. While all research indicates that women dress conservatively, in order not to attract the attention of the opposite sex. The extent to which a woman must be covered has not been agreed upon. Even if what has to be covered is established by scholars, the manner in which this is to be done and the type of colours and fabric to be used needs further clarification. The issue of the female dress code needs to be presented from a female perspective. / Religious Studies and Arabic / M.A. (Islamic Studies)

The issue of a Muslim woman‟s dress code has been debated for centuries. This is of great importance as it is widely used as a criterion to measure the extent of a woman‟s piety or devotion to Allah. A study of the religious texts on the issue is essential. Therefore, Qur‟anic text, Prophetic Traditions and Qur‟anic exegesis of both classical and modern scholars would have been used in determining the correct dress code for Muslim women. While all research indicates that women dress conservatively, in order not to attract the attention of the opposite sex. The extent to which a woman must be covered has not been agreed upon. Even if what has to be covered is established by scholars, the manner in which this is to be done and the type of colours and fabric to be used needs further clarification. The issue of the female dress code needs to be presented from a female perspective. / Religious Studies and Arabic / M.A. (Islamic Studies)