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The shoreface, the 'buffer zone' between the land and sea, is one of the most important coastal regions directly influencing the coastal sediment budget through its role as a sediment sink or source. It therefore has a potentially significant impact upon large-scale (10 km; decades) shoreline movement. However, knowledge of shoreface activity over the medium- (I km; years) and, more particularly, the large-scale remains scarce, primarily as a consequence of data limitations. This empirical thesis extends existing knowledge to the large-scale through the observation of the temporal and spatial characteristics of shoreface morphodynamic behaviour over a 32 year period. It takes a data-orientated approach using the unique JARKUS data set which is composed of cross-shore bathymetric profiles covering the entire Holland coast to a maximum offshore distance of 3 km (approximately 16 m depth). The observations made are also used to i) evaluate the ability of existing models to predict shoreface morphodynamic behaviour; and ii) examine the evolution of shoreface activity beyond the data limits. It is shown that not only is there a cross-shore limit to significant depth change on the upper shoreface (as previously observed in short-scale studies), but over the longer temporal periods (2: 10 years), the middle and lower shoreface typically undergoes significant erosion. These observations are forthwith named the 'shoreward depth of closure' and 're-opening zone', respectively. The observed shoreface activity has also been classified as a function of the cross-shore extent of the activity as either 'non-', 'partially-' or 'fully-active'. Shoreface activity is strongly spatially- and temporally dependant, such that i) the Holland coast can be divided into two longshore provinces of similar morphodynamic characteristics; and ii) after 100 years, the north Holland shoreface is predicted to become fully active i. e. there is no cross-shore limit to the activity. Shoreface processes are under the control of internal dynamics e. g. the nearshore bar system, and external forcing e.g. hydrodynamics. The relative significance of these forcings is temporally dependent; for example the nearshore bar system has a greater relevance on the upper shoreface activity over the shorter time periods. Although most readily applicable to wave-dominated coastlines with similar characteristics to the Holland coast e.g. a near shore bar system, the fundamental ideas arising from this work could also be applied to coasts with different environmental conditions e.g. tidally dominated. Essentially this study shows that shoreface activity is more widespread in the cross-shore than previously appreciated. One consequence is that there will be a greater sediment volume in transport than formerly acknowledged and accounted for in, for example, sediment budgets.

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Havet och skärgården är viktiga för Nynäshamn kommuns attraktivitet och identitet. Enligt översiktsplan är det även viktigt för kommunen att fortsätta förstärka kopplingen till vattnet genom att utveckla dom olika hamnar till livliga knutpunkter. Detta tillsammans med kommuns brist på högutbildad arbetskraft och betydande hälsoproblem skapar grunden till det här projektet.  I Gröndalsviken finns en småbåtshamn som kommunen har planer på att expandera. Platsen kan även uppfattas som en knutpunkt för tre olika områden där tydliga skillnader i inkomst och utbildning finns. Den närliggande tågstationen gör också platsen lätt tillgänglig för resten av kommunen. Allt detta gör att Gröndalsviken har en stor potential för en offentlig byggnad där även utbildning inom båtbyggeri erbjuds.  Gröndalsviken är också ett område där vatteninivån kommer höjas inom snar framtid. Denna förändring ville jag ta hänsyn till i projektet genom att placera byggnaden lite högre upp på en betongplatta som då också blir ett stort offentligt rum för hela kommunen. I projektet har jag fokuserat på att behålla siktlinjer och skapa flöde genom byggnaden för att betona utrymmets offentliga karaktär. Som ett resultat består byggnaden av flera volymer som öppnar sig både åt vattnet och inlandet. / The sea and the archipelago are important for Nynäshamn municipality's attractiveness and identity. According to the city plan, it is also important for the municipality to continue to strengthen the connection to the water by developing the various harbors into lively hubs. This together with the municipality's lack of highly trained workforce and significant health problems create the basis for this project. In Gröndalsviken there is a marina that the municipality plans to expand in the near future. The place can also be perceived as a meeting point for three different areas where clear differences in income and education can be seen. The nearby train station also makes the place easily accessible for the rest of the municipality. As a result, Gröndalsviken has great potential for a public building where training in boat building is also offered. However, Gröndalsviken is also an area where the water level will rise in the near future due to climate change. I wanted to take this change into account in the project by placing the building a little higher up on a concrete slab, which then also becomes a large public space for the entire municipality. In the project, it was important to me to maintain sight lines and create movement through the building to emphasize the public nature of the space. As a result, the building consists of several volumes that open both to the water and inland.

Recent evidence suggests that backbarrier structure may act as an historical record of island development, and that backbarrier shorelines can be used as a proxy of an island’s past and future transgressive response to sea-level rise. The structure and stability of back-barrier shorelines are dependent on the geologic framework, defined here as the combination of nearshore topography, underlying geology, and modern geomorphologic forces. This antecedent framework controls and influences the present morphology, nearshore dynamics, and rates of transgression in response to sea-level rise while also acting as a feedback to the estuary ecology on the bayside. It is therefore surprising that our understanding of backbarrier geomorphology is limited. There is a need for an established link between process regimes and an island’s geomorphological history. This thesis bridges the current intellectual gap. The primary hypothesis of this project is that shorelines and bathymetric isolines share quantitative shape signatures indicative of their shared morphological past. To establish this link, the backbarrier shorelines of four United States National Seashores (Fire Island, NY; Assateague Island, MD; Santa Rosa Island, FL; and North Padre Island, TX) are digitized from aerial imagery using the marshline as the shoreline indicator to ensure the inclusion of (vital, sometimes inundated) ecosystems and sediment storage. The alongshore variation of this backbarrier shoreline, the mainland shoreline, lagoon bathymetry, and nearshore bathymetry are each quantified through wavelet analysis and their shape signatures are examined for spatial correspondence. Large and small scale variations are identified and attributed to the geomorphologic controls operating on the same scale and alongshore variation. The result is an improved understanding of how the geologic framework controls backbarrier shoreline shape, which is essentially an expression of the underlying geology.

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