Submitted by Silvana Teresinha Dornelles Studzinski (sstudzinski) on 2016-07-18T18:40:35Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Ernani Bresolin_.pdf: 6006969 bytes, checksum: e09eb45bc2de4bee44f66eb48d4b237d (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-07-18T18:40:35Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Ernani Bresolin_.pdf: 6006969 bytes, checksum: e09eb45bc2de4bee44f66eb48d4b237d (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-04-26 / Nenhuma / A sustentabilidade é um tema bastante amplo e largamente discutido por pesquisas e estudos da área. Dentre seus desdobramentos encontra-se também o consumo sustentável, neste contexto, este estudo pretende pesquisar como consumidores estão resistindo a lógica atual de consumo e adotando práticas guiadas por uma consciência sustentável. Assim, tem-se como objetivo analisar comportamento de consumo desses que serão denominados neste estudo como, consumidores conscientes. A metodologia utilizou-se de uma pesquisa exploratória com entrevistas qualitativas e uso de técnicas projetivas e interpretativas. Os resultados proporcionam informações relevantes quanto aos significados, motivadores e benefícios percebidos, bem como, eventuais contradições, exceções e demandas ainda não supridas pelo mercado, utilizando como lente a visão daquele que talvez possui o maior dos poderes de transformação do atual modelo de consumo; o próprio consumidor. / Sustainability is a very broad topic and it is widely discussed by researches and studies in the area. In its developments, sustainable consumption has also been addressed. In this context, this study aims to investigate how consumers are resisting the current logic of consumption and adopting practices that are guided by sustainable awareness. Hence, it is necessary to analyze the consumption behavior of those who will be called in this study conscious consumers. Regarding methodology, an exploratory research including qualitative interviews, as well as projective and interpretive techniques, were used. The results provide relevant information on meanings, motivating factors and perceived benefits, as well as on possible contradictions, exceptions and market still unmet demands, and it holds the perspective from the one that, perhaps, has the greatest current consumption model transformation power: the consumer himself.

Cities all over the world have increasingly covered the topics about sustainable development. In the recent years, the garment industry has presented responsibilities and engagements towards sustainable development. Environmental awareness has increased in most societies. There is no doubt that consumers are demanding for more sustainable measures and this increases pressure on apparel enterprises to take actions and implement policies in order to secure their business. In terms of the garment industry, there is a rise of sustainably consciousness in the past decades.This leads to the purpose of this research project, which is to identify the key factors that affect consumer attitudes and behaviour regarding sustainability issues in textile industry, with a consumer study in Hong Kong. Key objectives in this research relate to consumer awareness of sustainable development aspects in garment purchasing decisions. This is a qualitative consumer study with an exploratory approach. Hong Kong citizens who were born in the 1990s were selected to join the two focus groups. This is because this generation is consumption-oriented, and also more conscious to sustainable development. It can be concluded that numerous factors and considerations that play an essential role in consumers’ purchasing decision in garment industry. Moreover, consumers perceive that several parties are responsible for being sustainable as this has been important in this industry.

In the last two decades a drive for sustainable fashion emerged, grew and ultimately failed. In its beginnings the boom of green fashion and the saturation of labelled so-called sustainable garments, followed by the realization that most of the labelling did not hold any consistency behind it, overwhelmed consumers and made them immune to the effects of green marketing. This occurred because of the approach the fashion industry took regarding the topic. They needed to sell their products no matter what, and if a green tag with a recycling logo and a “green is the new black” motto would help them, they would embrace it. However, after several scandals and inquiries about the validity of the sustainable claims advertised, consumers grew rapidly disappointed and eventually unconcerned, falling back into their usual consumption habits without regard for ethical and environmental aspects. Nevertheless, once uncovered, the issues emerging from the production of garments could not be hidden once again, and companies were then required to take regulatory measures in order to mitigate the effects of the industry, if only to satisfy the general public’s knowledge and perceptions of the brands. As is well known this is not yet standard procedure and the ideal scenario for sustainable fashion production is still a road that continues on, but a small battle was won in the sustainability agenda and corporate social responsibility is nowadays common practice within large enterprises, again, if only for the sake of their stakeholders view. The truth, however, proves to be that this is not enough. Of the main environmental issues caused by clothing, not production, but use and consumption proved to be the most critical points in the larger picture. The amount of water, energy and waste created by laundering alone poses one of the biggest threats to the sustainable fashion notion, as well as the ever increasing textile waste in landfills. These issues are related entirely to each individual user and their actions, but the endeavor of making the large public aware of this issue is being undertaken by several, relatively small enterprises both private and public that don’t seem to be succeeding according to the studies. The public is not going to voluntarily wake up and undertake the quest for consuming and disposing sustainably unless they become aware first of their actions, and are given enough infrastructure to do so. This thesis concentrates on the problematic of consumer awareness regarding both use and disposal phases as well as the existing or possible solutions that help mitigate the devastating effects on the environment clothing is causing nowadays. / Program: Master programme in Fashion Management

Les produits d'ameublement domestique sont soumis à l'accélération de leur cycle de renouvellement. Ce phénomène n'est pas sans conséquences écologiques et sanitaires. Cette recherche analyse les pratiques de consommation de ces produits par les femmes, le genre le plus intéressé par l'aménagement et la décoration intérieure, dans le but d'étudier les facteurs qui sont à l'origine du désir de changement, notamment du sentiment de lassitude, les habitudes et les fréquences de renouvellement ainsi que leurs intentions en matière de préoccupation écologique. La mise en œuvre des méthodes de recherche et de traitement, issues pour l'essentiel des sciences humaines et sociales, met en lumière une catégorie de consommatrices qui résistent à la consommation des produits industrialisés et choisissent des pratiques de consommation citoyenne qui se basent essentiellement sur Je bricolage et le recyclage des produits usagés. Ces «créatifs culturels» sont à l'origine de l'émergence d'une culture éthique qui est en train de se confirmer et qui va sans doute modifier les valeurs de la société du futur. Les designers sont plus que jamais invités à se pencher de plus près sur ce nouveau profil de consommatrices dans l'idée de la production participative, du co-design. / Home furnishings are subject to an acceleration of their renewal cycle. This phenomenon has ecological and sanitary consequences. This research analyzes the consumption practices of these products by women, the gender that is most interested in interior design and decoration. It studies the factors that drive the desire for change, such as the feeling of weariness, the habits and frequencies of renewal, and women's concerns towards ecological issues. The implementation of research and treatment methods, ail coming from social sciences, highlights a category of consumers who resist to the consumption of industrialized products and choose consumption practices that are mainly based on DIY and recycling. These "cultural creatives" individuals are at the origin of the emergence of an ethical culture that is growing and that will undoubtedly modify the values that will shape the society of the future. The designers are more than ever invited to look more closely at this new profile of consumers in the idea of participative production : the co-design.