Orientador: Rosemeire Cristina Linhari Rodrigues Pietro / Banca: Vera Lucia Borges Isaac Rangel / Banca: Ana Lucia da Costa Darini / Resumo: No decorrer dos últimos, o desenvolvimento de agentes antimicrobianos eficazes e seguros para lidar com infecções bacterianas revolucionou o tratamento médico. Entretanto, pela própria evolução dos organismos e, com auxílio indiscriminado dos antibióticos, muitas espécies de microrganismos foram selecionadas, apresentando resistência aos agentes antimicrobianos utilizados. Como uma tentativa de contornar tal situação e ampliar o arsenal de compostos ativos contra microrganismos patógenos, o estudo de plantas tornou-se crescente no cenário científico... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Abstract: In the last 60 years, the development of safe and affective antimicrobial agents against bacterials infections has changed the clinical therapy. However, as organism evolution as antibiotics indidcriminate use, many microorganism species have been selected showing resistance to drugs used until the moment... (Complete abstract click electronic access below) / Mestre

MENVSC / Department of Hydrology and Water Resources / Africa is endowed with various earthy materials, of which each community is uniquely identified. Inspite of the vast knowledge of western cosmetics, application of traditionally used cosmetics have been in existence and will be into practice from generation to generation, this is as a result of their various indigenous knowledge about traditional cosmetics. They are mostly applied during traditional rites and festive periods. Occasionally, earthy materials play a vital role in traditionally used cosmetics. Different reasons have been associated with the use of these earthy materials, they are: for skin cleansing, protection against ultra violet radiation, skin lightening, perfecting the distorted part of the skin and improving beauty. This study is focused on the physico-chemical, chemical and mineralogical characterisation of earthy materials indigenously used as cosmetics. This is achieved firstly by identifying the various earthy materials applied topically as well as their constituents. Samples for this study were obtained from six (6) different African countries namely: Botswana, Cameroon, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Nigeria, South Africa and Swaziland and were subjected to the following analyses: Scanning Electron Microscope and Electron Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy for the morphology and elemental analysis, hydrometer method for the determination of particle sizes of each sample and a texture Auto Lookup Software Package (TAL Version 4.2) for the classification of their various textures (%clay, %sand and %silt). The X-ray diffractometry was applied for the identification of their mineral phases (secondary, major and minor). The Brunauer Emmett and Teller (BET) method was used for the physisorption analysis and classifying them according to their isotherm types (Type I, II, III, IV, V and VI). The chemical analysis was achieved by X-ray fluorescence (XRF). The result revealed that the morphology of the various representative samples varies, except CMR 1; 2, SCC 1; 2 and SLW 1; 2 which showed same structure and same elemental constituents, their resemblance indicated that they possess same geological formation. The XRF result indicated the presence of the following trace elements: Al, As, Au, Ba, Bi, Br, Ca, Cd, Ce, Cl, Co, Cr, Cs, Dy, Er, Eu, Fe, Ga, Gd, Ge, Hf, Hg, Ho, I, In, K, La, Lr, Lu, Mg, Mn, Mo, Na, Nd, Ni, Nb, Os, P, Pb, Pd, Pr, Pt, Re, Rh, Ru, S, Sc, Se, Sb, Si, Sm, Sn, Sr, Ta, Te, Tb, Th, Ti, U, V, W, Y, Yb, Zr and Zn, were measured in ppm. For example, Fe – 66.47 (Qwa-Qwa), Al – 4.64 (Swaziland), Si – 6.26 (Democratic Republic of Congo), Ti – 3.75 (Qwa-Qwa) and so on. From the particle size distribution analysis, some samples were identified to be clay (BTS 1, BTS 2, NG 1, SCC 4, SCC 5, SCC 9, SCC 11, SCC 12, SWL 1 and SWL 2) with their particle sizes < 2μm, whereas other samples showed other properties which are > 2 μm. Ten minerals were identified in the clay fraction samples: albite, goethite, halloysite, hematite, kaolinite (kaolinite-1Md, kaolinite 1) Mica (muscovite), sulphur, talc, chalcanthite and whewellite. The BET method vii for physical adsorption revealed that BTS 1, BTS 2, CMR 1, CMR 2, DRC A, DRC B, NG 1, NG 2, SWL 1, SWL 2, SCC 1, SCC 4, SCC 5, SCC 8, SCC 9, SCC 11 and SCC 12 countries possess Type II isotherm whereas samples from SCC 2, SCC 6, SCC 7 and SCC 10 had Type III isotherm. The physisorption analysis result also determined the various surface areas and porosity of each representative samples.

Background Frontal fibrosing alopecia (FFA) is a subtype of primary scarring alopecia. It is associated with progressive, lymphocytic inflammation of hair follicles and permanent replacement by fibrous tissue. Clinically FFA is characterized by a band-like recession of the frontal hairline which may be associated with eyebrow (+/- body hair) loss and facial hyperpigmentation (most significant in pigmented skin). Early reports of FFA were in a few postmenopausal women, however, there has been an exponential increase in published cases (which include young women and men) in the last decade. Even though the cause remains unknown, an environmental factor is suspected. Aim The main aim of the study was to investigate whether there is an association between FFA and sunscreen actives, and to compare this with a histologically similar condition (lichen planopilaris - LPP) and another which also affects the marginal scalp (Traction alopecia – TA). The objectives were to obtain archival pathology tissue collected in the last decade from scalp biopsies and to use high-end spectroscopy and microscopy to detect the presence of sunscreen actives. Secondly, to investigate the survival and metabolism of cultured skin cells after exposure to various sunscreen actives. Methods The presence of sunscreen actives in formalin fixed paraffin-embedded (FFPE) punch biopsies of 9 FFA, 11 LLP and 5 TA, were compared. Tissue sections (5 μM) were embedded on microscopy glass slides and analysed using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Elemental analysis of the biopsies sections was carried out using the energy dispersive X-ray microanalysis/spectroscopy (EDS) function on the SEM. In addition, Fourier-Transformed Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, was used to identify chemical bonds within biopsies, to potentially expose their molecular detail. The results were analysed using multivariate analysis known as Orthogonal Partial Least Squares Discriminant Analysis (OPLS-DA). Secondly, immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaTs) as well as fibroblasts derived from FFA site specific biopsies (normal scalp, active edge and scarred area) from 4 FFA patients were exposed to 5 common sunscreen actives viz: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, octyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-4 and 2-ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, over a 24 hrs period. Thereafter, cell counting kit-8 (CCK8) assay was used to measure the cytotoxicity effect of the 5 sunscreen actives on HaCaTs and primary fibroblasts. Further, the metabolic phenotype switch of treated cells was analysed using the real-time extracellular flux bioanalyser. Results SEM/EDS - various elements were detected in patients' biopsies, many seemed to be lower in FFA compared to LLP and TA samples such as potassium, promethium, terbium, thulium and tin. Bromine, chlorine and indium were unique to TA samples; lead was only found in 2 LPP samples and 3 elements (antimony, plutonium and arsenic) were only unique to FFA samples. Zinc was detected in more FFA (33%) than LPP (9%) and TA (0%) samples. FTIR – various compounds were found in the FFPE sections. Strontium titanate was a significant contributor to the spectra separating FFA from TA; and although present was not significant for separating LPP vs. FFA and LPP vs. TA. Strotium titanate is used as a diamond simulant and one of the compounds it is produced from is titanium dioxide. Its use in jewellery makes it highly possible for it to come into contact with human skin. Moreover, there was no significant data point separation between FFA and LPP (R2 =55%), however, the R2 for FFA vs. TA and LPP vs. TA were 92% and 93% respectively and this shows that there was a good separation of data points between two groups comparison. Three compounds strontium titanate, potassium phosphate tribasic which is used as a food additive and 1,2-Dichloroethylene which is used in cleaning applications of electronics and metals, were found to be significant contributors for the separation of data points between FFA vs. TA. Whereas, molybdenum iodide anhydrous (a compound used for research purposes in optical phenomena) and sodium metaperiodate (used in fluorescent labelling) were responsible for the separation between LPP vs. TA. CCK8 - The human keratinocyte cell line and FFA primary fibroblasts showed varying susceptibility to sunscreen actives, with zinc oxide being most cytotoxic. Real-time extracellular flux analysis - zinc oxide induced an aerobic phenotype switch only on keratinocytes. Titanium dioxide induced an energetic phenotype switch in both cell types, but increasingly more in fibroblasts from FFA active edge and scar samples. Chemical sunscreen actives showed negligible effect on the energy phenotype of both cell types. Conclusion: Consistent with current clinical understanding, this proof-of-concept study found no significant FTIR spectra separation between FFA and LPP. However, strotium titanate (with source as titanium dioxide) may be a contributor to FFA pathogenesis. More FFPE samples from FFA patients had traces of zinc than those from LPP and TA. Further, zinc oxide proved to be the most cytotoxic and titanium dioxide to exhibit significant bioenergetic changes compared to chemical sunscreen actives on mono-layer cells (from a keratinocyte cell line and patient derived fibroblasts). The effect of physical sunscreen actives (traditional and nano-particles) warrants further investigations on more complex (closer-to-real-life) 3D in vitro and ex vivo FFA tissue culture models. Furthermore, investigating a larger cohort could improve identification of the link between sunscreen products and the development of FFA

MyBao helps women to find eco-friendly alternatives for cosmetics, skin care and personal care products, while looking for sustainable solutions that contribute to the environment as well as their personal welfare. Our business will be a window for companies in the organic and natural care industry to reach out to a specific group of customers who share the same “green” vision. In addition, MyBao’s platform allows for customers’ data collection, which will provide companies with real-time information of trends and preferences. Through an online subscription service, women will receive a monthly “surprise” personal eco bag, which will contain curated travel-size organic and natural products that will match their preferences and needs, according to a personal survey completed at the moment of subscription. Full-size products will also be available in our website for customers to purchase, should they like the products they were sent in their monthly MyBao. Based on the information collected from the surveys, MyBao can provide partner companies with valuable real-time information of customers’ purchasing trends (big data). MyBao’s business model allows for different sources of revenue streams: (1) monthly subscription fees by users, (2) cut/percentage from the sales of full-size products, (3) advertising and product “featuring” option for our partner companies to prioritize their products in our website, (4) big data sale to our partner companies.

Pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations must be formulated so as to assure elegance of appearance, efficacy of ingredients and a satisfactory shelf life as the product. If the formulation is not self-preserving and if it contains material which could act as a substrate for growth of micro-organisms, the shelf life aspect involves, in addition to several other factors, the choice of a suitable antimicrobial preservative. Such preservatives, when present in the minimum effective concentration, are unfortunately prone to interact with many other materials. A number of papers on the inactivation of preservatives by containers, filters and formulation components have been published. The field has been adequately reviewed by de Navarre (1962), Wedderburn (1964) and, more recently, by Coates (1973). From these reviews and from a study of the literature it became apparent that relatively little work had been done on interactions between preservatives and solid particles in aqueous suspension. Consequently, a range of preservatives not previously investigated in this respect was tested for loss of activity in the presence of fifteen powders commonly used in aqueous suspension in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. In view of the information obtained in this preliminary study and after the development of more satisfactory analytical techniques it was decided to study in greater depth the interaction between these powders and selected organomercurials and quaternary ammonium compounds.

published_or_final_version / Management Studies / Master / Master of Business Administration

Graduation date: 1995

Due to the gradual increase of the women income and with the rise of living standard, the market also expands for cosmetic products; the cosmetics enter the pluralistic channels district trough the market. How to select the best channel and maintain the service quality in distribution channels of cosmetics are important for the vendor. Thus, this research aims to discuss the relation between the distribution channel of cosmetics, consumer behavior and service quality. This research takes the SHISEIDO¡¦s consumers from Kaohsiung as the research objects for verification and analysis, the questionnaire materials which carry on 200 consumers. The major result of this research as follow: consumers of different behavior have obvious differences in select channels, and different channels have obvious differences in service quality.

Solar ultraviolet radiation is known to have deleterious effects on human skin and is a major cause of skin cancer. Therefore, the topical application of sunscreen preparations has gained wide usage for skin protection. These preparations typically contain a variety of chemical absorbers that absorb ultraviolet (UV) radiation and physical blockers that scatter, absorb and reflect UV light. The efficacy of sunscreens can be estimated by the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) which depends on the UV filters present in the formulations. However, although some of these commercial sunscreens have beneficial effects, they can also have undesirable results. It is known that the sunscreens undergo electronic excitation when exposed to UV light which may make them susceptible to photochemical modification. The production of reactive intermediates (e.g. free radicals) and stable photoproducts, either due to photoisomerisation or photofragmentation is a major concern because these species may be toxic and may lead to a reduction in efficacy. Hence a study of the photochemistry of these chemical absorbers found in commercial sunscreens is of great importance. Photostability and broad-spectrum studies of some Australian commercial sunscreen products were undertaken by means of spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods. The sunscreen products dissolved in methanol solutions were irradiated using simulated solar radiation. High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to identify and quantify the active chemical ingredients. UV spectrophotometry was used to monitor the spectral absorbance before and after UV exposure of the formulations. Our results show that some of the evaluated photoactive chemical absorbers currently used in sunscreens are unstable upon UV radiation. This was mainly due to either photoisomerisation and/or photofragmentation of some active chemical ingredients. An examination of the photochemistry of 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (2- EHMC), an ultraviolet B absorber that was found in all the suncare products investigated in this study was undertaken. Irradiation of dilute (~ 10-6 M) solutions of EHMC with wavelengths of light greater than 300 nm results in trans - cis photoisomerisation leading to a photostationary equilibrium mixture. However, pure or concentrated solutions of 2-EHMC upon prolonged irradiation showed additional photoproducts. These were isolated by preparative high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and characterised by nuclear magnetic resonance (1H NMR) spectroscopy, which was used to identify them as [2 +2] cycloadducts of 2-EHMC. There are 13 possible dimers formed via a [2+2] cycloaddition reaction mechanism across the ethylenic double bond, however only the stable and energetically favoured isomers were isolated. In addition, ab initio molecular orbital calculations have been used to investigate the structures and the transition states of the various dimers resulting from the cycloaddition reactions. Geometry optimizations and energy calculations were performed with the Gaussian 98 program, using the B3LYP density functional and 6-31+G (d) basis set. GaussView was used to visualize the transition state structures. The theoretical calculations predicted the most stable dimer forms. The trans-trans configuration at the cyclobutane ring of the 2-EHMC adduct gave relatively more stable photoproducts. The theoretical results have been confirmed by HPLC isolation experiments, which together with the UV spectra of the different products; verify the presence of the different conformers of 2-EHMC. / Thesis (Ph.D.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Westville, 2009.

The purpose of this research is to determine the extent of standardization of cosmetics advertising in Taiwanese and American magazines and to determine the brands and products most prevalently advertised in these two countries. The advertisements sampled were from Vogue and Cosmopolitan women's magazines, issues September 2004 to February 2005.