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The project contributes to the general theme of complex chemical systems and strengthens ties with Innospec, a multi-national chemical company. Sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate (SLMI. Trade name “Iselux”) is a newly developed surfactant with attractive product properties for personal care applications. Little is known about the fundamental surface and solution properties of SLMI, and it is not currently possible to use information on available surfactants to predict phase behaviour. We characterise the solution and liquid crystalline phase behaviour of the SLMI/water system using a combination of optical microscopy, X-ray scattering and differential scanning calorimetry techniques. SLMI is synthesised using a batch process that leads to variable component concentrations. Preliminary studies conducted by Innospec indicate that the presence of particular process components has a significant influence on SLMI formulation rheological properties. We investigate the effects of synthesis-derived components on the rheological properties of the SLMI/sodium {(3-(dodecanoylamino)propyl)(dimethyl)ammonio)}acetate/water system using rheology and light scattering (static and dynamic) techniques. SLMI is often formulated into personal care products on mixing aqueous formulation components. Micelle growth occurs via a mechanistic process that is not understood and the equilibrium viscosity is attained at a time after mixing that ranges from seconds to weeks. Developing an improved understanding of the micelle growth mechanism is of both academic and industrial value. We utilise static light scattering and nuclear magnetic resonance techniques to probe a range of samples in the viscoelastic region of the SLMI/(carboxymethyl)hexadecyldimethyl ammonium hydroxide/water system. Experimental findings improve our current understanding of micelle growth process and provide a platform for future research on non-equilibrium mixing kinetics. In the final section we investigate salt-induced cloud point and precipitation phenomena in the SLMI/salt/water system. The cloud point is commonly observed in surfactant and protein systems by increasing the solution temperature above a critical value, resulting in phase separation of solute-rich and solute-depleted layers. Cloud point induced phase separation may also be prompted by addition of salt. The mechanistic process driving electrolyte-induced cloud point phenomena is not understood. We use a combination of turbidimetry measurements and lightscattering (static and dynamic) techniques to measure cloud point curves andcharacterise micellar behaviour prior to clouding.

Treatments with natural products rich in anti-oxidants have attracted remarkable interest in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry to combat oxidative stress and reverse the effects of ageing. Rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) is a South African fynbos plant, well-known for its strong anti-oxidant capacity and use in many cosmetic products. However, little published research exists on its potential as an anti-ageing treatment. The anti-ageing properties of fermented and green rooibos were investigated using an in vitro cell culture model designed to evaluate the involvement of mitochondrial dysfunction in the age related decline in preadipocyte function. Mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) deficient preadipocytes, ρ0 3T3-L1preadipocytes, were generated following continuous long-term exposure to sub lethal concentrations of ethidium bromide (EtBr). Depletion of the mtDNA resulted in a significantly reduced mitochondrial membrane potential, rate of proliferation in culture, as well as an increased glucose utilization and lactate production. Treatment with the green rooibos (100 μg/mL) stimulated cell growth rates for both the wildtype and mutant cell lines. MtDNA depleted cells showed arrest in the G1 phase (48.8 ± 3.34%) compared to wildtype cells (44.6 ± 1.38%), which was significantly attenuated after treatment with green rooibos for mutant (42.0 ± 0.83%) and wildtype (36.5 ± 5.80%) treated cells. The results obtained for glucose utilization and lactate production, indicated a significant increase in glucose utilization along with a concomitant increase in lactate production after treatment with both green and fermented rooibos for wildtype and mutant cell lines. A significant improvement in mitochondrial membrane potential was also later observed after treatment with green and fermented rooibos on both the wildtype and mutant cell lines. The results obtained indicate that rooibos extracts, particularly the green rooibos, exhibit effects which preserve the functional capacity of preadipocytes exposed to ageing related insults, and indicate that rooibos could cause a metabolic shift in cells redirecting carbon flow away from mitochondrial metabolism, and towards lactate production and consequently, cells become resistant to mitochondrial dysfunction.

A large number of people throughout the world have naturally kinky hair that may be very difficult to manage. These people often subject their hair to vigorous and harsh treatment processes in order to straighten it and hence make it more manageable. Hair braiding is a popular and fashionable trend amongst many people, in particular people of African descent. Braided hairstyles serve to preserve hair and protect it, and to give it time to rejuvenate after a period of harsh treatment. During the braiding process synthetic hair is attached to natural hair by weaving a length of the natural hair into one end of each braid. Other materials like wool or cotton may be use used to achieve different hairstyles and textures. Several strands of natural hair are used to secure each braid. The braids are normally left intact for a number of weeks or even months. Although braiding is a helpful African hair grooming practice, the process of taking down or detangling the braids is labor intensive and entails each braid being cut just below where the natural hair ceases and the natural hair being untangled from the braid using a safety pin, a needle or a fine toothed comb. The labor and long hours required to detangle braided hairstyles often results in braid wearers frustratingly pulling on their braided hair. This behavior inevitably destroys the hair follicle and leaves the hair damaged. According to a study conducted by the University of Cape Town’s dermatology department, braiding may be the root cause of traction alopecia (TA) amongst braid wearers. Traction alopecia is a form of alopecia, or gradual hair loss that is caused primarily by excessive pulling forces applied to the hair. The purpose of this current study was to investigate the factors, other than braid tightness, that affect the way and ease with which braids are detangled from the human hair. The study hypothesized that frictional forces present in braided hair were amongst these factors. It was hypothesized that introducing a lubricating formulation in the braids would allow for easier braid detangling. In order to decrease the prevalence of traction alopecia from braided hair, two hair strengthening actives were included in the test formulation. The study investigated the effects of the test formulations on braid detangling, hair friction and on the tensile strength of human hair. The study found that the method used did not pick up any significant differences between the braid detangling forces of treated braids when compared to the braid vi detangling forces of untreated hair. The same method used to measure braid detangling forces was able to show that there are variations in the braid detangling forces of different sections along the braid length. The method to measure braid detangling was based on the principles of hair combability measurements. The study also found that although the method used to measure braid detangling forces was unsuccessful in picking up significant differences in braid detangling forces of treated hair and untreated hair, the method used to measure the frictional forces of human hair showed that the frictional forces of hair treated with test formulations were significantly different than that of untreated hair. The method used to measure frictional forces was based on the capstan approach. The Capstan method measures the forces required to slide a weighted hair fibre over a curved surface of reference material. The interaction between the weighted fibre and the reference material simulates the movement of hair out of a braid ensemble in the braid detangling process. The optimum mixture with the minimum coefficient of friction, predicted a coefficient of friction of 0.61 ± 0.04. The optimum formulation was found to be one that contained 30% Cyclopentasiloxane , 0% PEG-12 Dimethicone, 10% 18-MEA, 29% water, 10% hair strengthening actives, 12.86% emulsifier combination and 8% other oils. The study also showed that including hair strengthening actives, such as hydrolysed proteins had significant effects in the tensile strength properties of chemically treated African hair.

Cosméticos verdes são aqueles que alegam ser desenvolvidos de acordo com princípios ecológicos, sendo geralmente associados às características natural, orgânica e/ou vegana. Os sistemas de certificação desses produtos visam assegurar o cumprimento de diretrizes préestabelecidas e comunicar o consumidor sobre os atributos dos produtos. Considerando a importância da certificação para a consolidação e o fortalecimento desse mercado, o objetivo do presente trabalho foi analisar a percepção de empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes e consumidores a respeito da certificação natural, orgânica e vegana sob a perspectiva da Nova Economia Institucional. Para isso, foi empregada a triangulação metodológica, baseada em diversas abordagens de pesquisa, incluindo a realização de entrevistas semiestruturadas com representantes de empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes certificadas e a aplicação de questionários de elaboração própria em amostra não-probabilística de 416 consumidores de cosméticos via Facebook. Os dados das entrevistas foram submetidos à análise de conteúdo e os questionários foram analisados por meio de estatística descritiva, ambos interpretados à luz da Nova Economia Institucional. Verificou-se que as empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes atribuem à certificação um importante papel na comunicação sobre apelos ecológicos aos consumidores, no alinhamento de princípios com fornecedores, atuando como mecanismos de execução contratual e na obtenção de vantagens de mercado. As principais desvantagens relatadas pelas empresas produtoras foram os custos de transação decorrentes da obtenção e manutenção da certificação e possíveis dificuldades de comunicação com os consumidores. Em relação aos consumidores, predominaram na amostra usuários de cosméticos verdes. Porém, de modo geral, os consumidores possuem baixo nível de conhecimento e baixo grau de confiança nas principais certificações de cosméticos naturais, orgânicos e veganos atuantes no Brasil, além de perceberem tais certificações como pouco rigorosas. A disposição dos consumidores para pagar por cosméticos certificados foi estimada em 10 a 50% do preço dos produtos não certificados. A disposição para pagar está correlacionada com o nível de conhecimento e o grau de confiança dos consumidores nas certificações. Considerando os resultados do estudo, foram sugeridas estratégias para minimizar as desvantagens relacionadas aos custos de transação e às dificuldades de comunicação das certificações com os consumidores e ampliar suas vantagens, principalmente no que se refere à redução de assimetrias de informação e à obtenção de vantagens de mercado, de modo a contribuir para a consolidação e expansão do crescente mercado desses produtos / Green cosmetics are those that claim to be developed according to ecological principles, and are generally associated with natural, organic and/or vegan characteristics. Certification systems for these products aim to ensure compliance with pre-established guidelines and communicate the consumer about the attributes of the products. Considering the importance of certification for the consolidation and strengthening of this market, it is necessary to analyze the role of certification systems, both for producers and consumers. Thus, this work aims at analyzing the perception of producers of green cosmetics and consumers regarding natural, organic and vegan certification from the perspective of the New Institutional Economy. In order to do that, we used methodological triangulation, based on multiple research approaches, including the collection of primary data through semi-structured interviews with representatives of certified producers of green cosmetics and the application of closed questionnaires in nonprobabilistic sample of cosmetic consumers via Facebook. The information obtained from the interviews were submitted to content analysis, while the results of the questionnaires were analyzed by means of descriptive statistics. Both results were interpreted in the context of the New Institutional Economics. It was found that green cosmetic companies attribute to certification an important role in communicating ecological appeals to consumers, in aligning principles with suppliers, acting as contractual enforcement mechanisms and in obtaining market advantages. The main disadvantages reported by the companies were the transaction costs from obtaining and maintaining certification and possible communication difficulties with consumers. Regarding the questionnaires applied to consumers, the sample was predominantly composed of users of green cosmetics. However, it was found that consumers, in general, have a low level of knowledge and a low degree of confidence in the main certifications of natural, organic and vegan cosmetics in Brazil. Consumers also perceive such certifications as not very strict. The willingness of consumers to pay for certified cosmetics has been estimated at 10 to 50% of the price of non-certified products. The willingness to pay is correlated with the level of knowledge and the degree of consumer confidence in the certifications. Based on the results of the study, we suggested strategies to minimize the disadvantages of certification systems related to transaction costs and the difficulties of communication and to extend their advantages, especially regarding the reduction of information asymmetries and the market advantages, aiming at contributing to the consolidation and expansion of the growing market of these products

Com o crescente aumento do mercado cosmético e com o consequente aumento da exposição da população às diversas moléculas que os compõem, se faz fundamental os cuidados no desenvolvimento e na avaliação da segurança de produtos cosméticos. Diferentes ferramentas estão disponíveis para compor a estratégia de avaliação de segurança, sendo uma delas a avaliação da retenção e permeação cutânea in vitro, técnica que não apenas fornece dados para a avaliação da eficácia de princípios ativos, como também permite um aprofundamento na avaliação toxicológica dos ingredientes e produtos cosméticos. Assim como cresce o interesse da população por produtos cosméticos, observa-se também um aumento considerável na procura por produtos contendo ingredientes botânicos, o que torna ainda mais desafiadora a avaliação de segurança. Sendo as isoflavonas de soja bastante consumidas na alimentação e, em alguns casos, aplicadas a cosméticos, e tendo elas propriedades dérmicas interessantes, este trabalho teve como objetivo estudar o perfil de retenção e permeação cutânea in vitro da daidzeína, umas das mais importantes isoflavonas já descritas e estudadas. Para tal, desenvolveu-se uma nanoemulsão cosmética e aplicou-se um extrato botânico de soja rico em daidzeína. Desenvolveu-se e validou-se um método analítico por cromatografia líquida acoplada a detector de arranjo de diodos, e ainda procedeu-se a caracterização da nanoemulsão, a avaliação teórica de segurança de todos os seus ingredientes, além dos estudos de retenção e permeação cutânea in vitro, foco central deste trabalho. Como resultados, teve-se que a técnica de emulsificação à quente seguida de sonicação adotada para o preparo da nanoemulsão foi eficiente, possibilitando a obtenção de uma nanoemulsão pouco polidispersa e com tamanho de partícula médio abaixo de 200 nm. A retenção e permeação cutânea foram dependentes do tempo de aplicação, sendo que a nanoemulsão proporcionou uma maior retenção e menor permeação cutâneas da daidzeína comparado com solução controle no tempo de 6 h. A nanoemulsão desenvolvida mostrou-se adequada para a liberação tópica da daidzeína presente em extrato vegetal. Os testes in vitro de retenção e permeação cutânea são cruciais para esta etapa de desenvolvimento das formulações, quando os aspectos liberação tópica e possível toxicidade sistêmica são avaliados. / With the continuous growth of the cosmetic market, and so the increase in the exposure of the population to the different molecules present on these products, the care in the development and the safety assessment of cosmetics plays an important role. Different tools are available to compose the safety assessment strategy, one of which is the dermal absorption in vitro assay. This technique does not only give information regarding the efficacy of active ingredients, but also allow a deep toxicological evaluation of cosmetic ingredients and products. As the interest of the population on cosmetic products grows, also grows people\'s search for products containing botanical ingredients, fact that turns the safety assessment more challenger. As the soy isoflavones are part of the diet and sometimes used in cosmetic products, and as they present interesting dermal properties, this work aimed to study the profile of skin retention and dermal absorption of the daidzein, one of the most important isoflavones ever described and studied. For that, a cosmetic nanoemulsion was developed, in which a soy botanical extract rich in daidzein was added. An analytical method was developed and validated, based in liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector. Besides the in vitro studies of skin retention and dermal absorption, main focus of this project, the characterization of the nanoemulsion and the theoretical safety assessment of all of its ingredients were also performed. Regarding the results, the technique of hot emulsification followed by sonication used for the preparation of the nanoemulsion could be considered efficient based on the fact that it was less polidisperse and with a medium particle size below 200 nm. The skin retention and permeation were dependent on the time of application, and, it was observed that the nanoemulsion has led to greater retention and lesser skin permeation of daidzein incorporated into the nanoemulsion when compared to the control solution after 6 h of application. The nanoemulsion developed showed to be adequate to topical delivery of daidzein that is present in plant extract. In vitro skin retention and skin permeation are critical for this stage of development of the formulations, considering that aspects of topical delivery and systemic toxicity are evaluated.

Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong. / Bibliography: leaves 174-177.

Cosméticos verdes são aqueles que alegam ser desenvolvidos de acordo com princípios ecológicos, sendo geralmente associados às características natural, orgânica e/ou vegana. Os sistemas de certificação desses produtos visam assegurar o cumprimento de diretrizes préestabelecidas e comunicar o consumidor sobre os atributos dos produtos. Considerando a importância da certificação para a consolidação e o fortalecimento desse mercado, o objetivo do presente trabalho foi analisar a percepção de empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes e consumidores a respeito da certificação natural, orgânica e vegana sob a perspectiva da Nova Economia Institucional. Para isso, foi empregada a triangulação metodológica, baseada em diversas abordagens de pesquisa, incluindo a realização de entrevistas semiestruturadas com representantes de empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes certificadas e a aplicação de questionários de elaboração própria em amostra não-probabilística de 416 consumidores de cosméticos via Facebook. Os dados das entrevistas foram submetidos à análise de conteúdo e os questionários foram analisados por meio de estatística descritiva, ambos interpretados à luz da Nova Economia Institucional. Verificou-se que as empresas produtoras de cosméticos verdes atribuem à certificação um importante papel na comunicação sobre apelos ecológicos aos consumidores, no alinhamento de princípios com fornecedores, atuando como mecanismos de execução contratual e na obtenção de vantagens de mercado. As principais desvantagens relatadas pelas empresas produtoras foram os custos de transação decorrentes da obtenção e manutenção da certificação e possíveis dificuldades de comunicação com os consumidores. Em relação aos consumidores, predominaram na amostra usuários de cosméticos verdes. Porém, de modo geral, os consumidores possuem baixo nível de conhecimento e baixo grau de confiança nas principais certificações de cosméticos naturais, orgânicos e veganos atuantes no Brasil, além de perceberem tais certificações como pouco rigorosas. A disposição dos consumidores para pagar por cosméticos certificados foi estimada em 10 a 50% do preço dos produtos não certificados. A disposição para pagar está correlacionada com o nível de conhecimento e o grau de confiança dos consumidores nas certificações. Considerando os resultados do estudo, foram sugeridas estratégias para minimizar as desvantagens relacionadas aos custos de transação e às dificuldades de comunicação das certificações com os consumidores e ampliar suas vantagens, principalmente no que se refere à redução de assimetrias de informação e à obtenção de vantagens de mercado, de modo a contribuir para a consolidação e expansão do crescente mercado desses produtos / Green cosmetics are those that claim to be developed according to ecological principles, and are generally associated with natural, organic and/or vegan characteristics. Certification systems for these products aim to ensure compliance with pre-established guidelines and communicate the consumer about the attributes of the products. Considering the importance of certification for the consolidation and strengthening of this market, it is necessary to analyze the role of certification systems, both for producers and consumers. Thus, this work aims at analyzing the perception of producers of green cosmetics and consumers regarding natural, organic and vegan certification from the perspective of the New Institutional Economy. In order to do that, we used methodological triangulation, based on multiple research approaches, including the collection of primary data through semi-structured interviews with representatives of certified producers of green cosmetics and the application of closed questionnaires in nonprobabilistic sample of cosmetic consumers via Facebook. The information obtained from the interviews were submitted to content analysis, while the results of the questionnaires were analyzed by means of descriptive statistics. Both results were interpreted in the context of the New Institutional Economics. It was found that green cosmetic companies attribute to certification an important role in communicating ecological appeals to consumers, in aligning principles with suppliers, acting as contractual enforcement mechanisms and in obtaining market advantages. The main disadvantages reported by the companies were the transaction costs from obtaining and maintaining certification and possible communication difficulties with consumers. Regarding the questionnaires applied to consumers, the sample was predominantly composed of users of green cosmetics. However, it was found that consumers, in general, have a low level of knowledge and a low degree of confidence in the main certifications of natural, organic and vegan cosmetics in Brazil. Consumers also perceive such certifications as not very strict. The willingness of consumers to pay for certified cosmetics has been estimated at 10 to 50% of the price of non-certified products. The willingness to pay is correlated with the level of knowledge and the degree of consumer confidence in the certifications. Based on the results of the study, we suggested strategies to minimize the disadvantages of certification systems related to transaction costs and the difficulties of communication and to extend their advantages, especially regarding the reduction of information asymmetries and the market advantages, aiming at contributing to the consolidation and expansion of the growing market of these products

Ανάλυση των δεδομένων της αγοράς φυσικών καλλυντικών. Παρουσίαση στοιχείων εταιρείων φυσικών καλλυντικών ( Κορρές, Apivita),όπου φαίνεται η αύξηση του μεριδίου αγοράς που κατέχουν. Επιβεβαίωση της στροφής της αγοράς στα φυσικά καλλυντικά. / Analyzation of data market of natural cosmetics. Presentation of data by companies of natural products (korres,apivita) where is obvious there increase in share market.Confirmation of turn of market in natural products.

Thesis (M.S.)--Ohio University, August, 2008. / Title from PDF t.p. Includes bibliographical references.