Made available in DSpace on 2014-08-13T14:50:59Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2014-05-19Bitstream added on 2014-08-13T17:59:46Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 000773729.pdf: 3475538 bytes, checksum: 018064f79c4dfcc8527c0ab0dfe5c68d (MD5) / Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP) / A exposição à radiação ultravioleta (UV) é um dos principais fatores que contribuem para o desenvolvimento de câncer de pele e fotoenvelhecimento. Este trabalho teve como objetivo a obtenção de novos filtros solares com capacidade ampliada de proteção contra radiação UVA e UVB associada a propriedades antioxidantes, obtidos através da estratégia de hibridação molecular, entre filtros existentes (avobenzona e metoxicinamato de octila) e produtos naturais (resveratrol e ácido ferúlico). Foram sintetizados, isolados e caracterizados oito compostos inéditos obtidos através de hibridação molecular: (E)-4-hidroxi-N'-(4-hidroxibenzilideno)benzidrazida (molécula I), (E)-N'-(3,5-diidroxibenzilideno)-4-hidroxibenzidrazida (molécula II), (E)-4-(terc-butil)-N'-(3,5-diidroxibenzilideno)benzidrazida (molécula III), (E)-4-(terc-butil)-N'-(4-hidroxibenzilideno)benzidrazida (molécula IV), (E)-4-hidroxi-N'-((E)-3-(4-metoxifenil)alilideno)benzidrazida (molécula V), (E)-4-(terc-butil)-N'-((E)-3-(4-metoxifenil)alilideno)benzidrazida (molécula VI), (E)-4-hidroxi-N'-((E)-3-(4-hidroxi-3-metoxifenil)alilideno)benzidrazida (molécula VII) e (E)-4-(terc-butil)-N'-((E)-3-(4-hidroxi-3-metoxifenil)alilideno)benzidrazida (molécula VIII). O composto VIII apresentou-se como o mais termoestável, decompondo-se acima de 295°C. Na avaliação da atividade antioxidante, os compostos I, IV, VII e VIII apresentaram maior atividade, sendo os compostos VII e VIII semelhantes aos padrões ácido ferúlico, t-resveratrol e ácido ascórbico. Os resultados obtidos no ensaio de atividade fotoprotetora demonstraram capacidade protetora contra radiação UVA para os compostos I, IV, V, VI, VII e VIII, sendo todos comparáveis ao padrão t-resveratrol. O composto VI apresentou-se como o mais ativo quanto à capacidade fotoprotetora UVA sendo, inclusive, superior ao padrão t-resveratrol. Os compostos II e III foram classificados como potenciais filtros UVB e ... / The exposure to ultraviolet radiation is the mainly factor to develop skin cancer and photoaging. This work aimed to obtain new sunscreens with enhance abilities to protect against UVA and UVB radiation associated to antioxidant properties, obtained by molecular hybridization strategy among existing filters (avobenzone and methoxycinnamate) and natural products (resveratrol and ferulic acid). Eight new compounds were synthesized, isolated and characterized by molecular hybridization: (E)-4-hydroxy-N'-(4-hydroxybenzylidene)benzohydrazide (molécula I), (E)-N'-(3,5-dihydroxybenzylidene)-4-hydroxybenzohydrazide (molécula II), (E)-4-(tert-butyl)-N'-(3,5-dihydroxybenzylidene)benzohydrazide (molécula III), (E)-4-(tert-butyl)-N'-(4-hydroxybenzylidene)benzohydrazide (molécula IV), (E)-4-hydroxy-N'-((E)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)allylidene)benzohydrazide (molécula V), (E)-4-(tert-butyl)-N'-((E)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)allylidene)benzohydrazide (molécula VI), (E)-4-hydroxy-N'-((E)-3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)allylidene)benzohydrazide (molécula VII) and (E)-4-(tert-butyl)-N'-((E)-3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)allylidene)benzohydrazide (molécula VIII). Compound VIII was presented as the most thermostable, showing decomposition temperature above 295°C. Compounds I, IV, VII and VIII presented more antioxidant activity than the other compounds analysed. The compounds VII and VIII were similar to ferulic acid, t-resveratrol and ascorbic acid. Compounds I, IV, V, VI, VII and VIII had abilities to protect against UVA radiation, and all of these products were similar to t-resveratrol pattern. The VI molecule had the highest photoprotection activity against UVA radiation, and it was more effective than t-resveratrol pattern. The II and III compounds were classified as UVB filters and they were more effectiveness than t-resveratrol. Compounds I, III, V and VII showed inhibitory ability for the enzyme tyrosinase, respectively, ...

A lactoferrina bovina, descoberta em 1939, é uma glicoproteína que se liga reversivelmente a dois íons férricos, sendo capaz de seqüestrá-los de certos patógenos ou do meio, promovendo redução do crescimento microbiano ou se ligar as suas paredes celulares resultando na permeabilização. A lactoferrina vem ganhando notoriedade nas pesquisas, pois investigações têm descrito sua atividade in vitro frente a diversos microrganismos. Em razão desta propriedade, a mesma poderia ter aplicação nas indústrias cosmética e alimentícia, como um conservante natural. Embora alguns conservantes já estejam consagrados na literatura, os mesmos têm sido relacionados com o desencadeamento de reações alérgicas e de sensibilização, motivando a procura do conservante ideal. O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar a utilização da lactoferrina como conservante em formulações semi-sólidas tópicas para usos cosmético e farmacêutico, bem como verificar as estabilidades física e físico-química. Com esta finalidade, três diferentes concentrações de lactoferrina foram incorporadas nos cremes não-iônico e aniônico, gel e gel-creme. A atividade da lactoferrina foi avaliada através do teste de eficácia conservante, sendo que as formulações foram contaminadas com concentrações conhecidas dos microrganismos Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans e Aspergillus niger, com posterior contagem do número de Unidades Formadoras de Colônias (UFC), em placas de Petri, nos tempos zero, 2, 4, 6, 12, 24, 48 e 72 horas, bem como em 7, 14, 21 e 28 dias. Para estudo das estabilidades, as formulações foram avaliadas nos tempos zero, 15, 30, 60, 90, 150 e 180 dias, nas temperaturas de 4°, 25° e 40°C. A estabilidade físico-química foi avaliada através das características macroscópicas, estabilidade à centrifugação, pH, densidade e consistência. A estabilidade física, por meio da determinação da viscosidade e comportamento reológico. Os resultados obtidos, nas condições experimentais deste trabalho, permitiram inferir que a lactoferrina bovina não provocou alteração significativa nas estabilidades física e físico-química das formulações estudadas. Quanto à eficácia da lactoferrina, a mesma não pode ser classificada como substância dotada de atividade conservante, pois não atendeu às exigências preconizadas em compêndios oficiais, frente aos microrganismos estudados. Mesmo não tendo atendido às exigências oficiais como conservante, mostrou-se efetiva frente à levedura Candida albicans, nas formulações do creme não-iônico e gel de hidroxietilcelulose. No entanto, estudos posteriores poderão avaliar a associação da lactoferrina a outros conservantes, buscando sinergismo entre eles, conseqüentemente, podendo diminuir as reações adversas e sensibilizações no usuário. / The bovine lactoferrin, discovered in 1939, is a glycoprotein that connects itself reversibly to two ions of iron being able to kidnap them from certain pathogens or from the environment promoting reduction of the microbial growth or, resulting in permeability if connected to its cellular walls. Lactoferrin has become important in researches because investigations have described its activity in vitro before many microorganisms. Due to this property, lactoferrin could be applied in cosmetic and food industries as a natural preservative. Even though some preservatives are already acclaimed in literature, lactoferrin has been related to the unleashing of allergic reactions and sensibility, motivating the search for the preservative. The goal of this paper was to evaluate lactoferrin as a preservative in semi-solid topic formulations for cosmetic and pharmaceutical uses as to verify the physical and physical-chemical stabilities. On this purpose, three different lactoferrin concentrations were incorporated in non-ionic and anionic creams, gel and gel-cream. Lactoferrin\'s performance was evaluated through testing the efficiency of the preservative, being that the formulations were contaminated by known concentrations of the microorganisms Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans e Aspergillus niger, with posterior counting of the number of Former Colony Units (FCT), in Petri plates, on times zero, 2, 4, 6, 12, 24, 48 and 72 hours, as well as 7, 14, 21, 15, 30, 60, 90, 150 and 180 days, in temperatures of 4º, 25º and 40ºC. The physical-chemical stability was evaluated through the macroscopic characteristics,stability to centrifugation, pH, density and consistency. The physical stability through the determination of viscosity and reologic behavior. The results, in the experimental conditions of this paper, allowed inferring that the bovine lactoferrin didnt\'s provoke significant alteration in the physical and physical-chemical stabilities in the studied formulations. As to the efficiency of lactoferrin, it canot be classified as a substance endowed with preservative activity because it didn\'t reach the extolled demands in official compendiums before the studied microorganisms. Although it didn’t reach the official demands as a preservative, lactoferrin showed itself effective before the yeast Candida albicans on the formulations of the non-ionic cream and hidroxiethyl celulose gel. However, posterior studies will be able to evaluate the association of lactoferrin to other preservatives, seeking synergism between them, being able to consequently diminish the adverse reactions and sensibilities in the user.

As transformações recentes no perfil dos mercados de consumo de cosméticos, aliadas aos avanços das pesquisas em biotecnologia, têm propiciado novas oportunidades para diversos segmentos industriais contemporâneos. Uma das inovações representativas desse processo está associada ao desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos baseados na crescente utilização da biodiversidade de origem vegetal. Tendo como base geral as relações entre a biodiversidade, a biotecnologia e a bioindústria, o objetivo central deste trabalho consiste em analisar algumas experiências em curso na produção de cosméticos derivados de diversos tipos de ativos naturais e, ao mesmo tempo, avaliar as tendências e os desafios representados por esse segmento industrial. Constituem objeto de levantamento empírico, um grupo selecionado e representativo desse segmento de indústrias de diferentes portes instaladas no Brasil, destacando-se aquelas localizadas no estado de São Paulo, onde ocorre atualmente a sua maior concentração, e também na região de Provence-Alpes-Cotê DAzur, localizada na França. São examinadas sob essa perspectiva, também, algumas experiências internacionais mais conhecidas e que têm se destacado no mercado mundial de cosméticos justamente pela sua liderança e seu pioneirismo nessa modalidade de inovação. / The recent changes in the profile of consumer markets for cosmetics, allied to advances in biotechnology research have provided new opportunities for several contemporaneous industries segments. One of the representative innovations of this process is associated to the development of cosmetic products based on the growing use of the biodiversity with vegetal origin. Based on the relationships between biodiversity, biotechnology and the bio-industry, the objective of this thesis is to analyze some experiences in progress about the production of cosmetics derived from various types of natural assets and, at the same time, evaluate trends and challenges represented by this industrial segment. Constitute object of empirical study, a selected and representative group of this industries segment from different sizes located in Brazil, especially those located in the state of São Paulo, where there is currently its higher concentration, and also in the region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d\'Azur, located in France. Some of the most know international experiences have been examined from this perspective, as well. Those that have been prominent in the global cosmetics market precisely for its leadership and its pioneering on this type of innovation.

Orientador: Rodrigo Ramos Catharino / Texto em português e inglês / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Ciências Médicas / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-24T16:45:45Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Oliveira_DiogoNoinde_M.pdf: 1761420 bytes, checksum: 44f281d866001f2469fed828f8218583 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014 / Resumo: Com a larga distribuição e o crescimento de mercado da indústria de cosméticos, esta deve sempre seguir processos de produção e controle de qualidade altamente eficazes. Ensaios analíticos dessa natureza são realizados utilizando-se técnicas de cromatografia, podendo ou não ser acopladas a análises por espectrometria de massas. Entretanto, esses procedimentos requerem fases extensas de preparo de amostra, englobando desde processos de extração até mesmo a reações de derivatização. Num cenário industrial, isso se reflete em grande demanda de tempo e, portanto, custos adicionais. Tendo em vista esse escopo, apresentamos uma nova plataforma "ômica" ¿ a Cosmetômica, que propõe o uso de metodologias simplificadas e de grande eficácia em termos de preparo de amostra e facilidade na aquisição de dados. Amostras de diferentes tipos de cosméticos são analisadas através da técnica de espectrometria de massas por imagem (MALDI-MSI), qualitativa e quantitativamente, através da integração de dados tanto analíticos quanto estatísticos. É possível controle total de toda a cadeia produtiva, desde a matéria-prima até o produto acabado, sendo esse último o objeto de estudo do presente trabalho / Abstract: With the large distribution and the increasingly promising market of cosmetic industry, highly-qualified productive and quality control processes are mandatory for companies to follow. Analytical procedures for QC are commonly carried out using instrumental approaches such as chromatography ¿ coupled or not with mass spectrometry. However, these procedures require sample preparation steps, which may comprise extraction and even sample derivatization. In an industrial scenario it may reflect in great demand of time, with elevated costs as the main consequence. Within this scope, we present a new "omic" platform ¿ Cosmetomics, which proposes the use of simple and effective methods in terms of sample preparation and readiness of data acquisition. Samples from different types of daily use cosmetics are analyzed by mass spectrometry imaging (MALDI-MSI), both qualitative and quantitatively, through the integration of analytical and statistical data. It is possible, therefore, full control of the whole productive chain, from the raw material up to the finished product, which was the elected sample class of our study / Mestrado / Ciencias Biomedicas / Mestre em Ciências Médicas

Orientador: Maria Helena Andrade Santana / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Química / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-23T09:43:37Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Martinez_RenataMiliani_M.pdf: 2560469 bytes, checksum: b2891306de29653ef82ffcbbab2a7cb3 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013 / Resumo: O uso de matérias-primas sustentáveis, biodegradáveis e biocompatíveis é de grande interesse em aplicações farmacêuticas e cosméticas. O mercado cosmético situa-se em pleno processo de desenvolvimento, principalmente na área de produtos capilares, apresentando vendas expressivas no Brasil. Esse crescimento acarreta na necessidade de produtos inovadores, polivalentes e seguros para oferecimento aos consumidores. Neste âmbito, as partículas poliméricas coloidais têm ocupado posição de destaque no cenário mundial, marcando a presença da nanotecnologia em produtos cosméticos. Uma grande variedade de matérias-primas naturais ou sintéticas são polieletrólitos, cuja reticulação eletrostática em condições controladas produz partículas coloidais. A pectina cítrica e as peptonas vegetais fazem parte dos polieletrólitos, cuja origem vegetal tem sido preferida para as aplicações em cosméticos, em substituição a produtos de origem animal ou inorgânica. Neste trabalho, foi estudada a produção de partículas coloidais de pectina cítrica e das peptonas de soja e trigo, reticuladas com cloreto de cálcio e goma guar quaternizada. Em todos os casos, a produção das partículas foi realizada em processo descontínuo, simples, escalonável e na ausência de solventes orgânicos, envolvendo o gotejamento de solução do agente reticulante sobre a solução do polieletrólito sob agitação mecânica. Os resultados mostraram que para a pectina cítrica, o tamanho e a polidispersidade das partículas foram controlados pelo grau de esterificação, agente reticulante e concentração inicial de eletrólito em solução. Para obtenção de partículas em escala nanométrica, a concentração da pectina foi de 10,0 g/l e a concentração do agente reticulante foi 1,0% (m/v). As partículas obtidas conferiram viscoelasticidade à mistura de solução de pectina e copolímero catiônico (poliquaternium-7). A viscoelasticidade foi dependente da proporção e do diâmetro das partículas de pectina, com contribuição semelhante das partículas micro e nanométricas para formações viscoelásticas. No caso das peptonas vegetais, as de trigo tiveram o seu melhor desempenho na formação de nanopartículas com menor polidispersidade. As partículas obtidas atenderam às características físico-químicas de composição, tamanho e polidispersidade requeridas para aplicações em cosméticos. As partículas de pectina, em particular, apresentaram-se promissoras para aplicações em produtos cosméticos capilares devido tamanho reduzido e potencial viscoelástico. Os fios de cabelo submetidos aos processos de transformação capilar foram o foco para a aplicação dessas partículas na tentativa de minimizar os danos pré-existentes / Abstract: The use of sustainable, biodegradable and biocompatible raw materials show great interest for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. The cosmetic market is situated in development process, particularly in the area of hair products, with significant sales in Brazil. This growth brings the need for innovative, versatile and safe products to consumers. In this context, polymeric colloidal particles have occupied a prominent position on the world stage, marking the presence of nanotechnology in cosmetics. A variety of materials are natural or synthetic polyelectrolytes, whose electrostatic crosslinking in controlled conditions produces colloidal particles. The citrus pectin and vegetables peptones are part of polyelectrolytes, whose vegetable source has been preferred for applications in cosmetics, replacing animal products or inorganic materials. In this work, we studied the production of colloidal particles of citrus pectin and soybean and wheat peptones, all crosslinked with calcium chloride and quaternized guar gum. In all cases, production of particles was performed in a batch process, simple, scalable and in the absence of organic solvents, involving the drip of crosslinking agent on the polyelectrolyte solution under mechanical stirring. The results showed that for citrus pectin, size and polydispersity of the particles was controlled by the degree of esterification, crosslinking agent and initial concentration of electrolyte in solution. To obtain nanometer scale particles the concentration of the pectin was 10.0 g/l and the concentration of crosslinking agent was 1.0% (m / v). The particles obtained impart viscoelasticity to the mixture of pectin and cationic copolymer (polyquaternium-7). The viscoelasticity depended on the proportion and the particle diameter of pectin, as the micro and nanometric particles were similar to viscoelastic formations. In the case of peptones, wheat had the better performance in the formation of nanoparticles with low polydispersity. The obtained particles met the physico-chemical composition, size and polydispersity required for applications in cosmetics. The pectin particles, in particular, were very promising for applications in cosmetic hair due small size and potential viscoelastic. Capillary transformation processes were the focus for the application of these particles in an attempt to minimize the pre-existing damaged hair / Mestrado / Engenharia de Processos / Mestra em Engenharia Química

Orientador: Inés Joekes / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Química / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-23T21:39:23Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Pires-Oliveira_Rafael_M.pdf: 1845918 bytes, checksum: 804602d2e4268c29fa89904dda528728 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013 / Resumo: Sabe-se que tensoativos (surfactantes) de xampus causam degradação da fibra capilar. Entretanto, não há na literatura estudos para quantificar os danos decorrentes do uso de tensoativos comerciais, que são impuros. Este trabalho avalia e compara a degradação de cabelo induzida pela ação de 16 tensoativos comerciais. Cabelo-padrão Caucasiano castanho escuro foi imerso em soluções aquosas de 16 tensoativos comerciais, de dodecil sulfato de sódio (SDS) e de água destilada, em condições que imitam às do banho (38 °C, agitação constante). Obtiveram-se os espectros UV¿Vis das soluções de lavagem. O método de Lowry foi utilizado para estimar a quantidade de proteínas extraída por SDS e por água destilada. As soluções de cabelo em todos os tensoativos e em água tornam-se coloridas após tempo prolongado (dias) de contato com os cabelos. A intensidade da cor varia de acordo com o caráter iônico do tensoativo e, somente no caso dos tensoativos, aumenta com o tempo de contato. Os espectros UV¿Vis obtidos mostram que o grau de degradação da fibra capilar varia de acordo com o índice HLB (detergência) dos tensoativos. Aniônicos extraem em maior quantidade (ou mais rapidamente) as substâncias do cabelo, anfotéricos degradam menos e não-iônicos degradam na mesma intensidade que a água. A degradação se dá pela extração proteínas, fragmentos de cutículas e grânulos de melanina, sem que haja alteração de cor do cabelo. Os espectros UV¿Vis das soluções de lavagem apresentam bandas em 275 nm (proteínas) e de 525 a 625 nm (melaninas). Estas bandas correlacionam-se com a estimativa de proteína pelo método de Lowry. A partir desta correlação, a degradação de cabelos devido ao uso de tensoativos pode ser quantificada e comparada pelos espectros UV¿Vis das soluções de lavagem com os tensoativos comerciais / Abstract: It is well known that shampoo's surfactant causes degradation of human hair. However, studies that quantify hair damage caused by commercial surfactants are lacking in scientific literature. This work investigates and compares hair damage induced by 16 commercial surfactants. Standard virgin dark-brown Caucasian hair was immersed in aqueous solutions of 16 commercial surfactants, sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and distilled water under conditions that imitate bath (38 °C, constant shaking). UV¿Vis spectra were recorded of the washing solutions. Lowry method estimated the amount of protein extracted by SDS and distilled water. All surfactants solutions and water become colored after prolonged (days) contact with the hair. The color intensity varies with ionic character of the surfactant and, only in the case of surfactants, increases with contact time. UV¿Vis spectra show that the degree of hair damage varies according to the HLB index (detergency) of the surfactants. Anionics extract a greater amount (or faster) of hair substances, amphoterics extract fewer, and non-ionics degrade at the same intensity as water. The degradation is caused by the extraction of proteins, fragments of cuticle and melanin granules, without change hair color. UV¿Vis spectra of washing solutions show bands at 275 nm (proteins) and 525¿625 nm (melanins). These bands correlate with protein evaluation by the Lowry method. From this correlation, hair damage due to surfactants can be quantified and compared through UV¿Vis spectra of washing solutions of commercial surfactants / Mestrado / Físico-Química / Mestre em Química

[Introduction] The 1980s have ushered in an era of extreme competitive pressure for the modern business organisation. In previous times many business organisations have succeeded simply because of the excellence of their products, with little concern or attention being paid to the wants and needs of potential customers. As the business environment has become more competitive, however, the point of focus has changed. There is ample evidence which suggests a correlation between success in business and firms which have adopted a marketing-orientated philosophy of business. The evolution of marketing as a discipline has been hastened in recent times by the need of the firm to survive in the face of increasing competition. This "increasing attention" is occurring because of the realisation that sheer product excellence alone will not necessarily mean that the firm will succeed in establishing a group of satisfied customers in the long term. It is the adoption of the so-called "marketing concept" which provides the opportunity for the firm to develop a competitive edge which will more likely eventuate in success.

Des contaminations par Enterobacter gergoviae, dans les formulations cosmétiques diverses soulèvent le problème de la résistance bactérienne aux biocides. J'ai pu mettre en évidence, que certains épisodes de contaminations apparus au sein de l'entreprise partenaire, étaient dus à un même isolat persistant suite à un système de conservation/désinfection inefficace. Aux concentrations maximales autorisées par la commission européenne, les conservateurs ont des effets bactériostatiques mais ne présentent pas d'effets synergiques en association. Par conséquent, l'adaptation aux produits cosmétiques est favorisée. Divers mécanismes de résistance peuvent être mis en place par E. gergoviae : enzymatique (synthèse de peroxyredoxine), modifications de l'enveloppe (expression d'appendices externes : flagelles ou fimbriae/pili), modification de la mobilité, et formation de biofilms. L'apparition de ces mécanismes a aussi favorisé les résistances croisées conservateurs /désinfectants-détergents. / Contaminations by Enterobacter gergoviae in various cosmetic formulations raise the problem of bacterial resistance to biocides of the species, which represent the third source of cosmetics bacterial contaminations. The collaborative cosmetic company was concerned by unrelated contaminations but some contamination events were due to persistence of isolates in internal system process, despite disinfection protocols and use of preservatives. At the maximum levels allowed by the European Commission, preservatives tested have bacteriostatic effects and do not exhibit synergistic effects in combination. Therefore, adaptation in cosmetics is facilitated. Various resistance mechanisms can be implemented by E. gergoviae: Enzymatic (peroxyredoxin synthesis), changes in the envelope (expression of external appendages: flagella or fimbriae/pili), changes in mobility and biofilm formation. The appearance of such mechanisms has also promoted a cross-resistance conservative / disinfectant - detergent.

This master thesis deals with the assessment of selected fragrant substances in cosmetic products. At the beginning the occurrence, methods of acquiring and application of these substances is described. They are essential components primarily in cosmetic products, however they can cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals. The theoretical part of this thesis also describes the cause and the progress of these undesirable effects. There are several hundreds, up to thousands fragrant substances used in the perfume industry, from which 26 was designated by the European regulations as potential allergenic fragrant substances and their content is regulated. Legislative standards as well as the overview of the methods used to determine these fragrances are given here. The experimental part is focused on the development and validation of the separation methods for determining of the selected and potentially allergenic fragrant substances. The method used was a solid phase microextraction using Carboxen/Polydimethylsiloxane fiber combined with a gas chromatography coupled to a flame ionization detector (SPME-GC-FID). Amylcinnamyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, cinnamyl alcohol, coumarin, lyral, ?-isomethyl ionone were among the determined allergenic substance. Consequently, this method was also applied on 10 selected cosmetic products specimens, in which the linalool and geraniol were identified as the most common allergenic substances.

Date: 2020-06-09 Level: Bachelor Thesis in Business Administration, 15 ECTS Institution: School of Business, Society and Engineering, Mälardalen University Authors: Ida Kvist (93/03/23), Anna Messerschmidt (95/06/14) Title: Environmental protection as a driver for employee satisfaction and retention Tutor: Ali Farashah Keywords: employee retention, employee satisfaction, cosmetics industry, CSR Research question: How are the employee satisfaction and retention within the cosmetics industry impacted by the company’s external CSR actions regarding environmental sustainability? Purpose: The relationship between CSR and internal stakeholders has often been neglected in previous studies. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to investigate whether a company’s CSR strategy can positively influence employee satisfaction and retention. Thereby, three different CSR dimensions are compared in order to draw comparisons based on the results. The cosmetics industry was chosen as a focus area as its products and packaging are a great concern regarding environmental pollution. Method: Because the turnover rate among retail employees is particularly high, a quantitative survey across salespeople and sales managers of the cosmetics industry was conducted. The data was analyzed with the use of IBM SPSS statistics. Conclusion: Based on the findings of this study, environmental CSR has a significant influence on employee satisfaction. Yet, it showed no influence on employee retention. Furthermore, the findings suggest that internal CSR plays an important role in satisfying and retaining employees. Social CSR on the other hand showed a negative influence on employee satisfaction.