Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) have been developed in order to improve cutaneous hydration. Due to its ultrafine particle size it is possible a film formation on the skin which decreases transepidermal water loss, improving occlusive effect and hydration. In this context, the aim of this work was to develop a formulation containing NLCs based in Ouratea sp. butter (Ochnaceae) as a strategy to increase cutaneous hydration. Firstly, it was performed a characterization of the components such as, stearic acid (SA), Ouratea sp. butter (OB), Phospholipon 90G®, and its physical mixtures by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Thermogravimetry (TG) and X ray Diffraction (XRD). The NLCs were prepared using the diffusion solvent method and evaluated for particle size, polidispersity index, zeta potential, pH and conductivity. Moreover, NLCs were characterized by DSC, XRD and Transmission electron microscopy (TEM). Finally, the NLCs were incorporated into a cream base and were evaluated for rheological behavior, occlusive effect and potential cutaneous hydration in vitro. From the raw materials characterization was possible to observe in which the PM1 (SA + OB) 1:1 showed a slightly shift of the melting point corresponding to SA (57 to 50°C) and presented an amorphous portion at ~ 20° in the XRD analysis. These observations could be attributed to a decrease of crystallinity when compared with solid lipid pure, highly ordered. With the addition of Phospholipon® 90G (PM2), the melting point was highly shifted to lower temperature (57 to 34°C), and presented a pronounced amorphous at ~ 20° in XRD. Since the NLCs need to remain solid at room and body temperature, it is suggested that using a lower proportion of the Phospholipon® 90G in NLCs formulations. From the CMC determination of SDS surfactant (8,02 mmol L-1) was possible to suggest a range concentration of the SDS in the NLCs preparations. The formulation with the highest SDS concentration (24 mmol L-1) demonstrated the lowest size particle (~ 240 nm), however there were no difference in the zeta potential over formulation that using 10 mmol L-1 of SDS (~ -50 mV). The NLCs presented a decrease in the enthalpy (ΔHNLC8 = 22.2, ΔHNLC10 = 23.2, ΔHNLC24 = 7.2 J/g) and also an increase in the width peak when compared with solid lipid SA pure (ΔHSA = 164.1). In addition, the XRD analysis demonstrated that NLCs presented main peaks both formulations are similar to those found in the SA (23.93°, 25.09°, 27.98°), but with a lower intensity. These observations suggest a lipid matrix less ordered which result in NLC formation. TEM results confirmed previous data related to NLCs particle size (200 to 300 nm). After the incorporation of the NLC10 into a cream base, it was possible to observe an increase in the occlusive effect and potential cutaneous hydration. Therefore, NLCs containing Ouratea sp. butter can be an attractive nanotechnology way to increase cutaneous hydration. / Carreadores Lipídicos nanoestruturados (CLNs) têm sido desenvolvidos visando uma melhor hidratação cutânea. Devido ao seu reduzido tamanho de partícula, há formação de um filme sobre a pele o qual diminui a perda de água transepidermal, aumentando a hidratação. Neste contexto o objetivo deste trabalho foi desenvolver uma formulação contendo CLNs à base de manteiga de Ouratea sp. (Ochnaceae) como uma estratégia para o aumento do efeito oclusivo e da hidratação cutânea. Primeiramente foi realizada a caracterização das matérias-primas como, ácido esteárico (AE), Manteiga Ouratea sp.(MO), Phospholipon 90G® e suas misturas físicas utilizando Calorimetria Exploratória Diferencial (DSC), Termogravimetria (TG) e Difração de raios-X (DRX). Os CLNs foram preparados pelo método de difusão do solvente e avaliados por diâmetro médio de partícula, índice de polidispersão, potencial zeta, pH e condutividade. Os CLNs ainda foram caracterizados por DSC e DRX, Microscopia eletrônica de Transmissão (MET). Por fim, os CLNs foram incorporados no creme base e foram avaliados quanto ao comportamento reológico, efeito oclusivo e potencial hidratação cutânea in vitro. Através da caracterização das matérias-primas foi possível observar que a MF1 (AE + MO) 1:1 mostrou um pequeno deslocamento do ponto de fusão correspondente ao AE (57 a 50°C) e apresentou uma porção amorfa em ~ 20° nas análises de DRX. Essas observações podem ser atribuídas à diminuição da cristalinidade quando comparado com o lipídeo sólido puro, altamente ordenado. Com a adição do Phospholipon 90G® (MF2), o ponto de fusão foi deslocado para uma temperatura menor (57 a 34°C), e apresentou uma pronunciada porção amorfa em ~ 20° no DRX. Partindo do pressuposto que os CLNs devem se manter sólidos a temperatura ambiente e corpórea, é sugerida a utilização de uma menor proporção de Phospholipon® 90G nas formulações de CLNs. A partir da determinação da CMC do tensoativo SDS (8,02 mmol L-1) foi possível sugerir uma faixa de concentração de SDS nas preparações de CLNs. A formulação com a maior concentração de SDS (24 mmol L- 1) demonstrou o menor diâmetro de partícula (~ 240 nm), entretanto, não houve diferenças no potencial zeta em relação a formulação em que foi utilizado 10 mmol L-1 of SDS (~ -50 mV). CLNs apresentaram uma diminuição nos valores de entalpia (ΔHCLN8 = 22,2; ΔHCLN10 = 23,2; ΔHCLN24 = 7,2 J/g) e também um aumento da largura do pico quando comparados com o AE puro (ΔHSA = 164,1). Além disso, as análises de DRX demonstraram que os CLNs apresentaram picos principais similares àqueles encontrados no AE (23,93°; 25,09°; 27,98°), porém com uma menor intensidade. Os resultados de MET confirmaram os dados de diâmetro médio de partícula dos CLNs (200 a 300 nm). Após a incorporação do CLN10 no creme base, foi possível observar um aumento no efeito oclusivo e na hidratação cutânea. Dessa forma os CLNs contendo manteiga de Ouratea sp. podem ser uma alternativa nanotecnológica atrativa para o aumento da hidratação cutânea.

La peau est l’organe le plus étendu du corps humain. Doté d’une membrane biologique fine appelée la couche cornée, celle-ci le protège du desséchement et des agressions extérieures chimiques ou mécaniques auxquelles le corps humain doit faire face. Ce travail de thèse a consisté, dans un premier temps, à décrire via la littérature existante les effets de l’âge,dûs au vieillissement intrinsèque et extrinsèque,sur la physiologie cutanée du Stratum Corneum (SC).La partie expérimentale basée sur la microscopie vibrationnelle traitera des variations de la fonction barrière et de l’hydratation du SC lors du vieillissement chronologique et photo-vieillissement. D’autres méthodes ont également été utilisées comme la chromatographie liquide en phase normale couplée à la spectrométrie de masse haute résolution dotée d’une source APCI et d’un détecteur Orbitrap pour l’étude de la composition détaillée des lipides du SC ainsi que des méthodes plus globales comme la PIE ou la cornéométrie. Le caractère non invasif de toutes ces méthodes a permis de réaliser ces études in vivo. L’évolution de la fonction barrière a été étudiée aux niveaux tissulaire, moléculaire et supramoléculaire par micro-spectroscopie confocale Raman et spectroscopie Infrarouge. Puis le lien moléculaire a été fait entre le vieillissement intrinsèque et les céramides de la matrice lipidique intercornéocytaires par chromatographie en phase liquide couplée à la spectrométrie de masse. Les molécules discriminantes entre population jeune et âgée ont été déterminées par analyse chimiométrique. L’évolution de l’hydratation cutanée aux niveaux tissulaire, moléculaire et supramoléculaire a également été l’objet d’une investigation approfondie. Les variations de la composition des NMF et la teneur en eau dans le SC lors du vieillissement cutané ont été mises en lumière en utilisant des descripteurs spectraux Raman. Les variations structurelles des molécules d’eau impactant l’organisation supramoléculaire des édifices lipidiques ont également été évaluées. Au cours du vieillissement, la fonction barrière cutanée et hydratation sont conservées. / Skin is the external surface defining the human body in space. Its outer-most layer is a thin biological membrane, called Stratum Corneum(SC), that protects the internal organs from desiccation as well as chemical or mechanical external aggressions. The present thesis aimsin a first step, to summarize the current knowledge regarding the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging on SCphysiology,based on available literature. The experimental part addresses the gaps in our understanding of the effects of chronological aging and photoaging on the SC barrier function and hydration, using traditional methods (such as trans epidermal water loss and skin conductance) as well as more advanced ones (vibrational spectroscopies, liquid chromatography in normal phase tandem mass spectrometry high resolution with an APCI source and an Orbitrap detector. As these methods are non-invasive, all studies have been carried out in vivo. The evolution of the barrier function has been studied at the tissular, molecular and supramolecular levels using confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy. Then the link between the intrinsic aging and the ceramides of the intercorneocytary lipid matrix has been studied by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry. The discriminant molecules between young and old population have been identified by a chemometric analysis. The evolution of cutaneous hydration at the tissular, molecular and supramolecular level has also been investigated. The variations in the NMF composition and the SC water content have been studied by Raman spectral descriptors. Moreover, the structural variations of water molecules impacting the supramolecular organization of the lipid structures have been evaluated. Chronological aging and chronic exposure to environmental factors mildly affect SC barrier function and hydration levels. However, the processes controlling these properties are affected by aging in a site-dependent fashion.