Bibliography: leaves 347-353. / vii, 353 leaves : ill. (some col.) ; 30 cm. / Title page, contents and abstract only. The complete thesis in print form is available from the University Library. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Adelaide, Dept. of History, 1989

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Indiana University of Pennsylvania. / Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (M.A.)--Miami University, Dept. of Speech Pathology and Audiology, 2007. / Title from first page of PDF document. Includes bibliographical references (p.33-34).

No description available.

Thesis (M Consumer Science)--Stellenbosch University, 2000. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Clothing is an important phenomenon within corporate and organisational culture and forms an integral part of the total corporate identity. It fulfills a symbolic purpose and serves as a reference. It is a way in which companies can change or modernise their image as it is conveyed to clients. Little research has been done on uniform types of clothing, even though it has been an important phenomenon in the subject area of Clothing for ages. South African companies offers unique opportunities for research within a multi-cultural environment and Consumer Science's distinctive multi-disciplinary approach makes it an ideal starting point for this type of study. Three environments are concerned with the phenomenon of corporate clothing, namely the employers and employees of organisations or companies, academia of educational establishments and the manufacturers of corporate clothing. The study concerned tried to investigate the phenomenon of corporate clothing within the South African corporate environment. This was firstly done by studying the available clothing literature and describing aspects which have direct or indirect relations to corporate clothing. Information and advice was obtained from experts to gain insight into the South African circumstances with relation to corporate clothing. Secondly, employees who wear corporate clothing were questioned as to their opinions on specific aspects with regards to corporate clothing. This was done by means of a questionnaire which was developed to determine if employees of selected South African companies see corporate clothing as representative of company image, culture and policy. The extent to which extent employees are involved in decision-making processes with regards to corporate clothing was also determined. Employees' opinions with regards to consumer requirements and the extent of satisfaction with corporate clothing was determined. The extent to which age and position within the company playa role in employees' opinions of corporate clothing were investigated according to the information obtained through the questionnaire. The above mentioned information was structured to give possible guidelines to companies with in the implimentation and development of corporate clothing within the existing organisational culture. This study did not focus on manufacturers of corporate clothing, but it is assumed that they can benefit from the findings of the study. The study will contribute to the building of theory in the subject area of Clothing and consequently also contribute to the academical field. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Korporatiewe kleredrag is 'n belangrike fenomeen binne die korporatiewe en organisatoriese kultuur en vorm 'n integrale deel van algehele korporatiewe identiteit. Dit vervul 'n simboliese rol en dien as 'n verwysingsmaatstaf. Dit is 'n manier waarop maatskappye hul beeld aan kliënte kan verander of moderniseer. Alhoewel uniforme drag reeds vir eeue 'n belangrike fenomeen in kleredrag is, is daar steeds min aandag in navorsing aan hierdie onderwerp geskenk. Suid- Afrikaanse maatskappye bied unieke geleenthede vir navorsing binne 'n multi-kulturele omgewing en Verbruikerswetenskap se eiesoortige multi-dissiplinêre benadering maak dit by uitstek geskik as vertrekpunt vir hierdie tipe studie. Drie omgewings het belang by die fenomeen van korporatiewe drag, naamlik die werkgewers en - nemers van organisasies of maatskappye, akademici van opvoedkundige instellings en die vervaardigers van korporatiewe drag. Die betrokke studie het gepoog om op 'n verkennende wyse ondersoek in te stel na die fenomeen van korporatiewe drag binne die Suid-Afrikaanse korporatiewe omgewing. Dit is gedoen deur eerstens beskikbare kledingliteratuur te bestudeer en sodoende aspekte te beskryf wat direk en indirek betrekking het op korporatiewe drag. Inligting en advies is vanaf kundiges ingewin om insig in dié verband in die Suid-Afrikaanse omstandighede te verkry. Tweedens is werknemers wat korporatiewe drag dra, se menings oor spesifieke aspekte met betrekking tot korporatiewe drag vasgestel. Vir hierdie doel is 'n vraelys ontwikkel om vas te stel of die werknemers van geselekteerde Suid-Afrikaanse maatskappye korporatiewe drag sien as verteenwoordigend van maatskappybeeld, -kultuur en -beleid. Daar is ook vasgestel in watter mate werknemers betrek word in besluitneming oor korporatiewe drag. Werknemers se menings oor verbruikersvereistes, die mate van tevredenheid met die korporatiewe drag is bepaal. Die mate waartoe ouderdom en posvlak 'n rol speel in werknemers se menings van korporatiewe drag is ook vasgestel met behulp van die inligting verkry uit die vraelyste. Bostaande inligting is gestruktureer om moontlike riglyne aan maatskappye te bied met betrekking tot die invoer of ontwikkeling van korporatiewe drag binne die bestaande organisatoriese kultuur. Daar is nie in hierdie studie gefokus op vervaardigers van korporatiewe drag nie, maar dit word aanvaar dat die groep wel sal kan baat vind by die bevindings. Die studie sal 'n bydrae lewer tot die opbou van teorie in die vakgebied van Kleding en gevolglik ook 'n bydrae tot die akademie lewer.

This dissertation addresses the development of the costume book in the rapidly globalising world of the sixteenth century, concentrating on two costume albums produced in the second quarter of the sixteenth century and whose owners and creators shared close ties to the imperial court of Habsburg ruler and Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (r. 1519-56). These richly illustrated albums were among the first known and surviving attempts to make sense of cultural difference by compiling visual information about regional clothing customs in and around Europe and further abroad. Their method of codifying sartorial customs through representative costume figures became a prevailing method through which to examine human difference on an increasingly vast and complex geo-political stage. Yet to have been satisfactorily investigated is the significant role that Habsburg networks and relationships played in shaping these costume albums and their ethnographic interests. The Trachtenbuch, or costume album, of Augsburg portrait medallist Christoph Weiditz (c. 1500-59) is a primary example, constituting a work of keen ethnographic observation which depicts customs and cultures largely witnessed first-hand when the artist travelled to Charles V’s Spanish court in 1529. Of equal interest is the second primary example of this dissertation, the costume album of Christoph von Sternsee (d. 1560) the captain of Charles V’s German Guard. Sternsee’s album, introduced to scholarship for the first time in this study, illustrates diverse cultures and costumes encountered across the imperial Habsburg lands and its neighbours. The emperor’s far-reaching sovereignty propelled Christoph Weiditz and Christoph von Sternsee across the Habsburg lands as they each attempted to benefit their careers and gain prestige from imperial patronage. Their costume albums testify to an empire that encouraged interactions between ambassadors, agents, merchants, military officers, and courtly elite of diverse cultural backgrounds, against a backdrop of shared political, religious, commercial, and military interests. This milieu facilitated the transfer of knowledge and developed methods of visual communication and human representation that were shared and reciprocally recognised.

This thesis focuses on the topic of aging and memories connected with a woman's life. Theme is incorporated into the wider art-historical context and secondarily deals with the issue of social status of woman-artist. Attention is among others devoted to the topic of feminine identity and to the outline of links with cultural involvement of women. The thesis concerns with the description of the specifics of the aging process and mechanisms of memory function and remembrance, then it returns to the realm of an individual and a reflection of a personality.

A sociedade mundial está vivenciando transformações desencadeadas principalmente a partir de meados do século XX, incluindo as esferas econômica, social, ambiental, cultural, espacial, política e institucional. Na literatura são apontados fatores como a globalização, os avanços tecnológicos e a reestruturação dos sistemas produtivos, como principais responsáveis por essas mudanças. Neste contexto, observa-se uma orientação do processo de desenvolvimento a partir das questões territoriais, como ocorre na articulação dos agentes locais para a formação dos clusters ou arranjos produtivos locais. Logo, APLs encontram-se no centro do debate contemporâneo sobre planejamento regional e políticas públicas de desenvolvimento regional. Diante do exposto, o objetivo geral desta tese é construir uma proposição metodológica para analisar a contribuição do arranjo produtivo local para o processo de desenvolvimento sustentável regional. Assim, inicialmente é apresentada uma proposta de configuração de matriz para este cenário, incluindo os principais componentes do APL e suas relações com as dimensões territoriais. Na sequencia, é construída a proposição metodológica de análise, com a sua aplicação em quatro etapas: seleção do APL, mensuração da eficiência coletiva (IEC), mensuração do impacto territorial (IIT), e a integração destes resultados em um painel denominado APL-DSR. Com relação aos aspectos metodológicos, a pesquisa está classificada como explicativa, com a aplicação do método de estudo de caso. A coleta de dados baseou-se em fontes primárias e secundárias, incluindo pesquisa bibliográfica, documental e pesquisa de campo. O estudo de caso foi realizado no APL de Confecção do Sudoeste do Paraná, com a pesquisa de campo envolvendo os agentes locais deste arranjo produtivo, a partir de entrevistas estruturadas. Os resultados da coleta de dados foram analisados e interpretados em uma abordagem quanti-qualitativa, seguindo três encaminhamentos: análise qualitativa das respostas da pesquisa de campo, análise baseada na proposta metodológica APL-DSR, análise temporal baseada em simulações. Como principais resultados ressalta-se que o APL de Confecção do Sudoeste do Paraná alcançou uma boa avaliação na mensuração da eficiência coletiva, atingindo dois terços da escala IEC. Porém, apesar de positivo, o impacto territorial na região analisada foi discreto, atingindo um terço da faixa positiva normalizada da escala IIT. Para finalizar, evidencia-se a contribuição desta tese, a partir da construção da proposta metodológica de análise para avaliar a relação do APL no contexto do desenvolvimento sustentável regional, o que poderá auxiliar tanto na tomada de decisão para as políticas públicas, bem como no processo de autoavaliação do APL. / The world society is experiencing transformations triggered mainly from mid-twentieth century, including the economic, social, environmental, cultural, spatial, political and institutional. The literature pointed to factors such as globalization, technological advances and the restructuring of production systems as the main responsible for these changes. In this context, there is an orientation of the development process from territorial issues, as occurs in the articulation of local agents for the formation of clusters. Thus, clusters are at the center of contemporary debate on regional planning and regional development policies. Given the above, the general objective of this thesis is to build a methodological proposition to analyze the contribution of clusters to the process of regional sustainable development. Thus, is initially presented a framework configuration for this scenario, including the main components of cluster and its relations with the territorial dimensions. In sequence, is built a methodology of analysis with its application in four steps: selection of cluster, measurement of collective efficiency (IEC), measurement of regional impact (IIT), and the integration of these results on a panel called APL-DSR. Considering the methodological aspects, the research is classified as explanatory, with the method of case study. The data collection procedure was based on primary and secondary sources, including literature, documentary and field research. The case study was conducted at Clothing Cluster in Southwest of Paraná, with field research involving local actors of this productive arrangement, from the application of structured interviews. The results of the data collection were analyzed and interpreted in a quantitative and qualitative approach, following three referrals: a qualitative analysis of the responses of field research, analysis based on methodological proposal APL-DSR, temporal analysis based on simulations. The main results emphasizes that the Clothing Cluster in Southwest of Paraná achieved a good rating in the measurement of collective efficiency, reaching two thirds of the scale IEC. However, although positive, the territorial impact in the region analyzed was low, reaching a third of the positive range of the scale normalized IIT. Finally, highlights the contribution of this thesis, from the construction of the proposed methodology of analysis to assess the relation of cluster in the context of sustainable regional development, which could help both in decision making for public policy, as well as in the process of self-evaluation of cluster. / 5000

O processo de desenvolvimento e lançamento de novos produtos é decisivo para as empresas se manterem competitivas no mercado. Diante da importância deste processo, é preciso entender que o mesmo precisa ser controlado e bem gerenciado. Para garantir o processamento bem sucedido do desenvolvimento de produto, as empresas precisam constantemente avaliar o desempenho de seus esforços. Especificamente no processo de desenvolvimento de produto (PDP) do vestuário algumas particularidades precisam ser consideradas: influência da moda, desenvolvimento de produtos em linhas sazonais (coleções) em vez de produtos individuais, quantidade elevada de produtos por coleção, várias coleções ao ano e curto período de tempo para o desenvolvimento de cada coleção. Essas características incorporam a este processo dinamismo e rapidez durante o desenvolvimento. Sendo assim o objetivo geral deste trabalho é desenvolver um modelo para medição de desempenho do processo de desenvolvimento de produto, específico para o setor de confecção do vestuário de moda, composto por um conjunto de indicadores. Para embasar a elaboração da pesquisa, inicialmente foi apresentada uma fundamentação teórica sobre os conceitos que regem o PDP, os sistemas de medição de desempenho para este processo e seus indicadores. Os indicadores coletados foram ponderados por grau de importância por empresas de confecção do vestuário por meio da ferramenta Fuzzy-QFD, em conjunto foram identificados nas empresas os indicadores específicos para o PDP do vestuário. Baseado na fundamentação teórica e nas informações coletadas nas empresas, foi proposto o modelo para medição de desempenho do processo de desenvolvimento de produto do vestuário (MdDpV), composto por um sistema de medição de desempenho, atrelado a um Modelo para o PDP do vestuário, e por indicadores. O modelo proposto foi validado por especialistas da área (profissionais das empresas e professores) e se mostrou adequado para o PDP do vestuário. Neste sentido, conclui-se que o modelo proposto proporciona uma metodologia de suporte e controle para o PDP, por meio de atividades sistematizadas e um conjunto de indicadores. Em sua estrutura o modelo MdDpV se mostra simples, funcional e promissor para a condução e suporte do desenvolvimento de produto no âmbito industrial e acadêmico. / The process of developing and launching new products is decisive for companies to remain competitive in the market. Given the importance of this process, we must understand that it needs to be controlled and well managed. To ensure successful processing of product development, companies need to constantly evaluate the performance of their efforts. Specifically in the process of product development (PDP) of apparel some particularities need to be considered: influence of fashion, product development in seasonal lines (collections) instead of individual products, high quantity of products per collection, several collections per year and short period of time for the development of each collection. These characteristics incorporate this process dynamism and rapidity during development. Therefore, the general objective of this work is to develop a model for performance measurement of the product development process, specific to the fashion apparel industry, composed of a set of indicators. In order to base the elaboration of the research, initially a theoretical foundation was presented on the concepts that govern the PDP, the performance measurement systems for this process and its indicators. The indicators collected were weighted by the degree of importance by apparel manufacturing companies through the Fuzzy-QFD tool, together the specific indicators for the apparel PDP were identified in the companies. Based on the theoretical basis and the information collected in the companies, the model for measuring the performance of the apparel product development process (MdDpV) was proposed, composed of a performance measurement system, linked to a Model for the garment PDP, and indicators. The proposed model was validated by specialists in the area (business professionals and teachers) and proved adequate for the PDP of apparel. In this sense, we conclude that the proposed model provides a methodology of support and control for the PDP, through systematized activities and a set of indicators. In its structure, the MdDpV model is simple, functional and promising for the conduction and support of product development in the industrial and academic spheres.

CNPq / O PMV (Voto Médio Estimado) é um índice que pretende prever a sensação térmica das pessoas expostas a um mesmo ambiente. Entretanto, existem discrepâncias entre o modelo do PMV e as respostas de sensação térmica obtidas em estudos de campo efetuados para algumas populações. Um dos componentes para o cálculo do PMV é o isolamento térmico das vestimentas (Icl), que se utiliza da temperatura de superfície da vestimenta (tcl), que pode ser um fator que contribui para estas discrepâncias. Assim, esta pesquisa teve como objetivo apresentar um novo modelo de predição térmica minimizando as imprecisões das trocas térmicas pela correta determinação do tcl, utilizando-se do método de Newton. A coleta de dados contou com um grupo de soldadores, um grupo de trabalhadores de escritório desempenhando atividades sedentárias e um grupo de militares do exército português. Com a coleta de variáveis ambientais e pessoais no Brasil e em Portugal, esta pesquisa desenvolveu o Snovo1, por meio de um valor de tcl sem resíduos gerado pelo método de Newton e substituído nas parcelas de convecção e radiação de perda de calor e o Snovo2, mediante regressão múltipla entre os votos de sensação térmica coletados em estudo de campo, a taxa metabólica e os mecanismos de troca de calor. Depois do confronto entre a sensação térmica real e os valores de PMV calculados, para todos os grupos, os resultados encontrados com o Snovo1 e Snovo2 sempre foram melhores que os resultados encontrados com o PMV original de Fanger. O melhor resultado obtido nesta pesquisa foi com o grupo de militares, onde o Snovo2 apresentou uma melhoria de aproximadamente 46% em relação ao PMV original. Esta pesquisa comprovou que a temperatura superficial da vestimenta é uma variável de influência no modelo do PMV e minimizar imprecisões em sua obtenção diminui as discrepâncias entre os votos de sensação térmica e o PMV. / The PMV (Predicted Mean Vote) is an index which aims to predict the thermal sensation of people exposed to the same environment. However, there are discrepancies between the PMV model and thermal sensation responses obtained in field studies for some populations. One of the components for the calculation of PMV is the clothing insulation (Icl), which uses the clothing surface temperature (tcl), which can be a factor which contributes towards these discrepancies. Therefore, the aim of this research was to show the tcl influence on the PMV index. Thus, this research aimed to present a new thermal prediction model minimizing inaccuracies of thermal exchanges through the correct determination of tcl, by using Newton's method. Data collection featured a group of welders, a group of office workers performing sedentary activities and a group of Portuguese Army Military. Having collected environmental and personal variables in Brazil and Portugal, this research developed the Snew1, through a value of tcl without residues generated by Newton’s Method and replaced in convection and radiation heat loss equations and Snew2, through multiple regression between thermal sensation votes collected in field study, the metabolic rate and the mechanisms of heat exchange. After confrontation between the real thermal sensation and the calculated PMV values, for all groups, the results found with the Snew1 and Snew2 were always better than the results found with the Fanger’s Original PMV. The best result obtained in this research was with the military group, where the Snew2 presented an improvement about 46% over the original PMV. This search proved that the clothing surface temperature is a variable that influences the PMV model and minimizing inaccuracies in its obtaining decreases discrepancies between thermal sensation votes and PMV.