Konceptet fast fashion har skapat ökade möjligheter för konsumenten att kontinuerligtuppdatera sina kläder i garderoben. Den konstanta rörelsen där nya kläder introduceras samtidigt som plagg avyttras bidrar till negativ påverkan på miljö och samhälle. Ett sätt förkonsumenten att minska påfrestningarna på miljön är genom att oönskade kläder får kommatill fortsatt användning med hjälp av metoder som att sälja och donera. Trots det visar siffror på att slänga kläderna i soporna är en alltför vanlig avvytringmetod bland konsumenter. Det är därför av största relevans att undersöka vart kläderna tar vägen efter de har lämnat garderoben och varför konsumenten gör sig av med dem på ett visst sätt. Tidigare studier kring avyttringsbeteende av kläder är främst av en kvantitativ karaktär där resultatet pekar på att den bakomliggande orsaken till valet att avyttra kläder grundar sig på plaggets egenskaper. Kring valet av avyttringsmetod pekar tidigare studier istället på individens egenskaper såsom ålder och intressen. Tidigare forskning tycks därmed inte ta hänsyn till individens relation till det enskilda plagget. Eftersom konsumenter har olika erfarenheter och personligheter kan det således påverka konsumentens syn på hur de värderar det enskilda plagget. Det krävs därför mer kvalitativ forskning till hur denna värderingsprocess går till och vilka faktorer som påverkar konsumentens val av avyttring. Unga kvinnor klassifieras som den konsumentgrupp som vill följa med i modetrenderna och konsumerar därmed mest kläder. Därför kommer denna studie att undersöka målgruppen unga kvinnor mellan 20-30 år. Resultatet ska bidra till en ökad förståelse för unga kvinnors avyttringsbeteende vilket i senare skede kan vara till hjälp för att främja avyttringsmetoder som förlänger plaggets livslängd. Studien grundar sig på en kvalitativ metod där tolv semistrukturerade intervjuer ligger tillgrund för empirin. Materialet från intervjuerna analyserades med hjälp av en modell som beskriver olika faktorer vilket leder fram till konsumentens avyttringsbeslut och alternativ. Resultatet visade på hur unga kvinnors avyttringsbeslut påverkades av den känslomässiga relationen mellan ägaren och plagget. Relationen kännetecknas bland annat hur väl klädesplagget stämmer överens med individens självbild och identitet samt klädesplaggets sentimentala värde, såsom att plagget präglar en betydelsefull händelse i konsumentens liv eller tilldelats som en gåva. Ett avyttringsbeslut påverkas även av plaggets inköpspris, skick och användbarhet. Konsumentens situation såsom tid eller upplevd ansträgning påverkade även avyttringsbeslutet. Vidare har samhället en signifikant roll där information och tillgänglighet av olika avyttringslaternativ påverkar hur konsumenten avyttrar sina kläder. De metoder som framhävs i resultatet vid avyttring är sälja, donera, dela och slänga. Valet av metod grundar sig dels på externa faktorer som berör infrastruktur, dels interna faktorer som berör produkten och konsumenten men också relationen mellan individen och plagget. Förslag på vidare forskning är att studera fler typer av produktkategorier. / The concept of fast fashion has created increased opportunities for consumers to continuously update their clothes in the wardrobe. The constant movement where new clothes are introduced at the same time as garments are disposed contributes to a negative impact on the environment and society. One way for consumers to reduce the impact on the environment is by allowing unwanted clothing to continue to be used using methods such as selling and donating. Nevertheless, numbers show that throwing clothes in the trash is a far too common method by consumers. Therefore it is out of utmost relevance to examine where the clothes go and why they are disposed in a certain way after they have left the wardrobe. Previous studies on disposal behaviour of clothing is mainly of a quantitative nature where the results show that the underlying reason for the choice to dispose of clothes is based on the garment’s properties. Regarding the choice of disposal method, previous studies point instead to the individual's characteristics such as age and interests. Previous studies do not seem to take into account the individual's relationship to the individual garment. Since consumers have different experiences and personalities, it can affect the consumer's view of how they value the individual garment. More qualitative research is therefore needed on how this valuation process works and what factors influence the consumer's choice of disposition. Young women are classified as the consumer group that wants to follow fashion trends and consume the most clothes. Therefore, this study will examine the target group of young women between 20-30 years. The result will contribute to an increased understanding of young women's disposal behavior, which at a later stage can be helpful in promoting disposal methods that prolongs the life of the garment. The study is based on a qualitative method where twelve semi-structured interviews form the basis of the empirical data. The material from the interviews was analyzed using a model that describes various factors, which leads to the consumer's disposal decisions and alternatives. The results showed how young women's disposal decisions were affected by the emotional relationship between the owner and the garment. The relationship is characterized by, among other things, how well the garment matches the individual's self-image and identity and the sentimental value of the garment, such as that the garment marks a significant event in the consumer’s life or is a gift. A disposal decision is also affected by the garment's purchase price, quality, condition, and usability. The consumer's situation such as time or perceived effort affected the disposal decision as well. Furthermore, society has a significant role where information and availability of various disposal alternatives affect how the consumer disposes of her clothes. The methods of disposal that are highlighted in the result are sell, donate, share and throw away. The choice of method is partly based on external factors that refer to infrastructure, partly internal factors that refer to the product and the consumer, but also the relationship between the individual and the garment. Suggestions for further research are to study more types of product categories.

In previous years, the importance of sustainable consumption has been neglected, and as a result, so has the disposal process. This has lead to consumers being uneducated about environmental issues associated with waste problems. The textile industry greatly contributes to waste problems; however, very little information is available in South Africa concerning the waste management of the textile industry. Furthermore, very little research has been done in this country regarding consumer’s clothing disposal behaviour. South Africa is a country with various cultures, and research conducted in this country necessitates consideration of consumers’ values, beliefs and norms. This study acknowledges the lack of sustainable lifestyle literature in a country such as South Africa that has an emerging economy and diverse cultures, and therefore provides a framework that emphasises theories and models based on pro-­‐environmental behaviour. The framework for this study focuses on the concepts of the Value-­‐Belief-­‐Norm Theory and the New Ecological Paradigm Scale as influencing factors for clothing disposal behaviour. For this study the clothing disposal methods included re-­‐using, recycling, donation, reselling and discarding. © University of Pretoria v Furthermore, both the Value-­‐Belief-­‐Norm Theory and the New Ecological Paradigm Scale are new to the consumer behaviour research field in South Africa. The study was conducted in the City of Tshwane and a sample of 306 female consumers was included. Female consumers were selected as it has been found that females tend to be more environmentally concerned than men. Respondents were reached through non-­‐ probability, purposive and snowball sampling methods. A quantitative research approach that included a cross-­‐sectional survey design was used for descriptive and exploratory purposes. Respondents completed a questionnaire that was based on objectives compiled according to the research statement. Data was coded by the researcher herself, and was further descriptively and statistically analysed by statisticians of the University of Pretoria. The results for the study indicated that the majority of the consumers included in the study mainly indicated compassionate value orientations; however, they showed only moderate concern towards the environment. Nevertheless, results showed that the majority of the sample predominantly disposes of their clothing by means of pro-­‐environmental clothing disposal methods such as recycling, re-­‐using and donation. It was however found that different value orientations, beliefs and norms had varied influences on the clothing disposal behaviour. Ultimately, the findings indicated that it is relevant to explore consumer behaviour in a country with a growing economy and with various cultures, since values, beliefs and norms had a noteworthy influence on consumers’ clothing disposal behaviour. / Dissertation (MConsumer Science)--University of Pretoria, 2013. / gm2014 / Consumer Science / unrestricted

The average Swede consumes 14 kilos of textiles every year and disposes of 10 kilos, of which 8 kilos end up in the household mixed waste. When disposed of in the household mixed waste, the textiles will be incinerated. Sweden has adopted the EU’s Extended Producer Responsibility policy as a national policy after which all Swedish provinces, as late as 2025, are obliged to collect and treat textile waste separately from other waste to make better use of it through processing for re- or downcycling instead of energy recovery through incineration. This puts waste management companies at risk of facing larger textiles waste masses than they may be able to handle. Hence, waste management companies must prepare for this imminent challenge by engaging the public, influencing them towards textile waste reduction. However, to engage (with) the public, these organizations must first learn about the citizens’ perceived knowledge, attitudes, and self-efficacy concerning textile waste reduction alongside the current barriers and enablers they experience regarding reducing consumption and correct disposal of textile waste. Qualitative data was gathered by employing a questionnaire and focus groups, and through thematic analysis, survey data from roughly 430 respondents and three focus groups were evaluated. Significant findings of this study were that citizens face substantial barriers such as lack of information and infrastructure, which leads them to resort to inappropriate disposal. While they are aware of their wrongdoings, they are, on the one hand, incapable of acting differently and, on the other hand, uninformed about waste prevention, generation, and disposal. However, they are open to education and collaboration with waste management companies. Furthermore, the study concludes that, while the individual has a significant role in implementing policies, a systems view must be employed not to overload the individual with responsibility.