The aim of this essay has been to investigate the use and traditios of double weaves during the old Vasa period in Sweden, the so called Ryssväv (Russian Weave). Questions focused are: what was the magnitude of the double weaves produced in Sweden, was there a considerable import from Finland, how were the double weaves used, did it differ between bigger and smaller royal estates, was the building type of importance for the furnishing? Ryssväv has been categorized both as an "everyday article", and as art weave, but what was its status, and what status did the craftsmen have compared to other craftsmen? The preserved double weaves from the late medieval period in Sweden-Finland has served as a direct source for my examination and as such the theory and method of my work has been Material culture. Most likely the double weaves of the Vasa period were similar, in both quality and esthetics. My primary sources have been fatbursräkenskaper (household accounts) from two royal estates, Rävsnäs and Gripsholm. In these accounts I have tried to find documentation telling something about the use ad status of ryssväv, and about the craftsmen who made them. The examination demonstrates that the use and production differed between Gripsholm and Rävsnäs; it is likely that this has to do with the building type, stone or wood. About the status of the craftsmen, one example is that of a female weaver recieving more money, for her ryssväv, than a male painter, for his paintings in the king's chamber. What has been claimed by some scientists, that most of the double weaves from the Vasa period, were imported from Finland, can be incorrect, according to my investigation. This hypothesis is left for future research to investigate.

Stand Up Weave explores multiple-layer weaving from a sculptural and spatial perspective in combination with non-textile materials as a way of challanging what weaving can be and how it can be developed in the changing textile industry. The aim was to develop three-dimensional fabrics by hand weaving in multiple layers with integrated supporting structures to achieve sculptural textile objects directed towards experimental textile design. The work investigates and develops methods of how to design and produce complete textile objects directly in the loom without industrial machines or finishing processes such as sewing together parts. The result is a collection of three woven objects, each exhibiting different ways of constructing three-dimensional textiles with individual solutions for warp planning, weaving and supporting structures.

Denna rapport beskriver en produktutvecklingsprocess som behandlar utvecklandet av ett textilt material som isolerar och skyddar. Det textila materialet ska fungera till ett kylande fodral utan att förstöra dess funktion och behöver därför uppfylla en speciell kravspecifikation. Materialet ska isolera mot kroppsvärme, vara stabilt, skyddande och slitstarkt. Dubbelväv valdes tidigt i arbetet då det är ett enkelt sätt att kunna påverka det textila materialets egenskaper i form av material- och konstruktionsval, i en betydligt större utsträckning än i en enkelsidig väv. För att utveckla ett material med de efterfrågade egenskaperna har tester utförs och den metod som har använts är hypotesprövning. Med hjälp av fakta om fibrer och bindningar har kvalificerade antaganden gjorts som sedan testats för att se om dessa var korrekta. Resultatet av undersökningarna visar att fibern i materialet inte påverkar isoleringsförmågan något nämnvärt vilket var det som första antagandet påstod. Fibervalet i det material som togs fram var alltså inte den centrala frågan utan det var istället vilken konstruktion som fungerade bäst i syfte att isolera mot kroppsvärme. Ekonomiavsnittet i rapporten grundar sig i litteratursökning. En målkostnadskalkyl har lagt grunden till prissättning av produkten för att i slutändan ta reda på ett ungefärligt pris som det textila materialet i produkten får kosta. Detta för att se om materialet är ekonomiskt rimligt att i slutändan sätta i produktion. This report describes a product development process that addresses the development of a textile material that insulates and protects. The textile material is supposed work in a cooling case without destroying its function and therefore needs to meet a particular specification. The material should insulate against body heat, be stable, protective and durable. Double weave was chosen early in this report, it is a simple way to influence the textile properties of the material. This in a significantly greater extent than in a single-sided fabric. In order to develop a material with the required properties, tests have been performed and the methodology that was used is hypothesis testing. With the aid of facts about fiber and bonds, qualifying assumptions were made which then was tested to see if these were correct. The results of the surveys shows that the fiber of the material does not affect the insulation which was what the first hypothesis stated. The fiber choice of the material that was produced was not the central issue, instead it was the design that worked best in order to isolate against body heat. The economic part of the report is based on literature search. A target cost laid the foundation for the pricing of the product in order to ultimately determine an approximate price of what the textile material in the product will cost. This was made to see if the material is economically reasonable to ultimately bring into production. / Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning

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