Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:26:16Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2009-07-14Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T19:33:47Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 barra_bn_me_bauru.pdf: 3958792 bytes, checksum: ae72a72eb4a06ae0fd87c7806e05b455 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / Com a inserção da variável ambiental no comércio internacional, as negociações adquirem novo parâmetro de competitividade, pois as organizações reguladoras do comércio mundial buscam, por meio da rotulagem ambiental, minimizar os efeitos nocivos do ambiente, decorrentes das atividades produtivas. Neste sentido, os rótulos ambientais vêm informar aos consumidores as boas práticas produtivas empregadas pelos fabricantes para que possam tomar decisões conscientes no ato da compra. O Brasil, um dos maiores exportadores de couro, contempla para sua produção as atividades de cria, recria e engorda e, devido à demanda internacional pela carne, o setor da pecuária nacional avança suas fronteiras para implantação de novas pastagens. Esse fato, aliado ao manejo inadequado do rebanho, à liberação de efluentes e às emissões atmosféricas durante seu processamento, agravam os impactos ambientais Diante deste cenário, a presente pesquisa tem como objetivo averiguar se os cinco programas de rotulagem ambiental estudados, que possuem critérios instituídos para o couro bovino, contemplam os princípios das normas, em especial, os princípios das normas, em especial, os principais aspectos do ciclo de vida do couro. Neste contexto, realizou-se pesquisa exploratória, que identificou o programa Nordic Swan como sendo o mais completo por abranger um número maior de requisitos para o couro. Entretanto, constatou-se ainda que, os programas de rotulagem ambiental estudados não contemplam a totalidade do ciclo de vida deste material e, desta forma desprezam diversos impactos ambientais relacionados à sua produção. Assim, com base nos objetivos propostos verifica-se que os cinco programas de rotulagem ambiental se mostram deficientes, visto que, ao abordar o ciclo de vida de forma parcial, seus produtos rotulados não cumprem o objetivo de informar, ao consumidor, os efeitos nocivos da produção de couro. / With the insertion of the environmental factor in international trade, negotiations acquire new competitiveness parameter, for the world trade regulary organizations seek, through environmental labelling, minimize the adverse effects to the environment, caused by productive activities. In this sense, environmental labels come to inform consumers the good productive practices employed by manufacturers, so they can take aware decisions in the act of purchasing. Brazil, one of the largest leather exporters, contemplates for its production, the activities of breeding, restocking and fatterning and, due to the international demand for meat, the sector of national catle-breeding puts its borders for the establishment of new pastures. This fact, allied to the cattle inadequate management, the effluents releasing and the atmospheric emissions during is processing, increases the environmental impacts. Facing this scenario, this research aims to investigate whether the five environmental labelling programs studied, which have established criteria for the cowhide, include the principles of standards, in particular the main aspects of the life cycle of the leather. In this context, an exploratory research was accomplished, which identified the Nordic Swan program as being the most comprehensive by covering a larger number of requirements for the leather. However, it was still observed that the environmental labelling programs studied do not cover the entire life cycle of this material and thus they despise several environmental impacts related to its production. Thus, based on the objectives it is proposed that the five programs of environmental labelling is shown disabled because, in addressing the life cycle in part, labeled their products do not meet the objective of informing, the consumer, the harmfull effects the production of leather.

Resumo: Com a inserção da variável ambiental no comércio internacional, as negociações adquirem novo parâmetro de competitividade, pois as organizações reguladoras do comércio mundial buscam, por meio da rotulagem ambiental, minimizar os efeitos nocivos do ambiente, decorrentes das atividades produtivas. Neste sentido, os rótulos ambientais vêm informar aos consumidores as boas práticas produtivas empregadas pelos fabricantes para que possam tomar decisões conscientes no ato da compra. O Brasil, um dos maiores exportadores de couro, contempla para sua produção as atividades de cria, recria e engorda e, devido à demanda internacional pela carne, o setor da pecuária nacional avança suas fronteiras para implantação de novas pastagens. Esse fato, aliado ao manejo inadequado do rebanho, à liberação de efluentes e às emissões atmosféricas durante seu processamento, agravam os impactos ambientais Diante deste cenário, a presente pesquisa tem como objetivo averiguar se os cinco programas de rotulagem ambiental estudados, que possuem critérios instituídos para o couro bovino, contemplam os princípios das normas, em especial, os princípios das normas, em especial, os principais aspectos do ciclo de vida do couro. Neste contexto, realizou-se pesquisa exploratória, que identificou o programa Nordic Swan como sendo o mais completo por abranger um número maior de requisitos para o couro. Entretanto, constatou-se ainda que, os programas de rotulagem ambiental estudados não contemplam a totalidade do ciclo de vida deste material e, desta forma desprezam diversos impactos ambientais relacionados à sua produção. Assim, com base nos objetivos propostos verifica-se que os cinco programas de rotulagem ambiental se mostram deficientes, visto que, ao abordar o ciclo de vida de forma parcial, seus produtos rotulados não cumprem o objetivo de informar, ao consumidor, os efeitos nocivos da produção de couro. / Abstract: With the insertion of the environmental factor in international trade, negotiations acquire new competitiveness parameter, for the world trade regulary organizations seek, through environmental labelling, minimize the adverse effects to the environment, caused by productive activities. In this sense, environmental labels come to inform consumers the good productive practices employed by manufacturers, so they can take aware decisions in the act of purchasing. Brazil, one of the largest leather exporters, contemplates for its production, the activities of breeding, restocking and fatterning and, due to the international demand for meat, the sector of national catle-breeding puts its borders for the establishment of new pastures. This fact, allied to the cattle inadequate management, the effluents releasing and the atmospheric emissions during is processing, increases the environmental impacts. Facing this scenario, this research aims to investigate whether the five environmental labelling programs studied, which have established criteria for the cowhide, include the principles of standards, in particular the main aspects of the life cycle of the leather. In this context, an exploratory research was accomplished, which identified the Nordic Swan program as being the most comprehensive by covering a larger number of requirements for the leather. However, it was still observed that the environmental labelling programs studied do not cover the entire life cycle of this material and thus they despise several environmental impacts related to its production. Thus, based on the objectives it is proposed that the five programs of environmental labelling is shown disabled because, in addressing the life cycle in part, labeled their products do not meet the objective of informing, the consumer, the harmfull effects the production of leather. / Orientador: Adilson Renofio / Coorientador: Rosane Aparecida Gomes Battistelle / Banca: Otávio José de Oliveira / Banca: Aldo Roberto Ometto / Mestre

Problembeskrivning: Eftersom det finns så många olika miljömärkningar blir det svårt för konsumenter att skilja de mest pålitliga märkningarna åt. Utan tillräcklig kunskap kan konsumenter inte göra välgrundade miljöval när de handlar, vilket kan ha negativa konsekvenser för framtiden. Syfte: Syftet med denna uppsats var att undersöka graden av miljövetenhet bland konsumenter vid val av tvättmedel. Studien genomfördes bland Eskilstunas konsumenter. Dessutom var syftet med uppsatsen att undersöka den yngre generationens framtidsutsikter när det gäller deras kunskap om miljömärkningar och hur det påverkar deras val av tvättmedel. Metod: Studien har utgått från en kvalitativ undersökning i form av tidigare forskningar och fortsatte med en kvalitativ undersökning i form av intervjuenkätundersökning följd med jämförelse och deduktiv analys.  Slutsats. Resultaten av studien indikerar att de flesta av respondenter har bristfälliga kunskaper om miljömärkningar. Trots en medvetenhet om miljöfrågor, saknar de kunskap för att kunna fatta informerade beslut. Priset verkar inte ha en betydande roll i deras köpbeslut. Samtidigt visar det sig att kvinnorna inom äldre generation är mer engagerade i miljöfrågor. Slutligen är det min förståelse att Konsumentverket bör göra en konkret lösning, till exempel en tryckt guide med miljömärkningar för produkterna som är grundläggande för vår dagliga försörjning, som mat, tvättmedel och rengöringsmedel. Detta tycker jag kommer höja kunskapen om hållbar konsumtion bland alla generationer. / Problem description: Because there are so many different eco-labels, it becomes difficult for consumers to distinguish the most reliable labels. Without sufficient knowledge, consumers cannot make informed environmental choices when shopping, which can have negative consequences for the future. Purpose: The purpose of this essay was to investigate the environmental awareness among consumers when they are choosing detergents. The study was made among Eskilstuna's consumers. In addition, the purpose of the essay was to investigate the future prospects of the younger generation in terms of their knowledge of environmental labels and how it affects their choice of detergents. Method: The study was based on a qualitative investigation in the form of previous research and continued with a qualitative investigation in the form of an interview questionnaire followed by comparison and deductive analysis. Conclusion. The results of the study indicate that majority respondents have insufficient knowledge about environmental labels. Despite an awareness of environmental issues, they lack the knowledge to make informed decisions. Price does not seem to play a significant role in their purchase decisions. At the same time, it turns out that women in the older generation are more engaged in environmental issues. Finally, it is my understanding that the Swedish Consumer Agency should make a concrete solution, for example a printed guide with environmental labels for the products that are fundamental to our daily livelihood, such as food, detergents and cleaning agents. I think this will raise awareness of sustainable consumption among all generations.

Cette thèse a pour objectif d'étudier les programmes de labellisation environnementale. Dans un premier temps nous différencions deux types de programmes de labellisation, les programmes de type ISO I qui donne une information discrète (les produits sont labellisés ou non), et les programmes de type ISO III qui eux révèlent l'information de manière continue (les cartes énergétiques). Nous montrons que les programmes de type de ISO III conduisent à des problèmes d'auto-sélection au sein de la ligne du produit du monopole alors que les programmes de type ISO I permettent à celui-ci de parfaitement discriminer entre ces produits. Ensuite dans un second chapitre, réalisé en collaboration avec J.W. Maxwell et R. Harbaugh, nous faisons l'hypothèse que le consommateur n'a qu'une idée incertaine de la difficulté du standard qu'un produit doit atteindre pour être labellisé. Nous montrons que la prise en compte de cette hypothèse diminue les incitations des entreprises à se faire certifier et l'efficacité des programmes de labellisation. Nous prouvons aussi que les entreprises choisissent de manière stratégique entre les différents labels disponibles sur le marché. Enfin dans un dernier chapitre réalisé en collaboration avec J. Rosaz et F. Poinas, nous choisissons d'utiliser l'économie expérimentale afin d'étudier le comportement du consommateur ou plus précisément la révision des croyances d'un sujet lorsque celui-ci reçoit un signal imparfait. Le signal envoyé au sujet consiste en une restriction des états possibles de la nature et s'apparente ainsi au label observé par le consommateur sur le marché. Nous montrons qu'en moyenne ces signaux permettent aux sujets d'améliorer leur estimation, cependant certains signaux trop incertains peuvent avoir des effets pervers. / This thesis has for goal to study environmental labeling programs. In the first chapter, I use a self-selection model to study environmental labelling program in a context of multiproduct monopoly. I show that the manner by which information is conveyed affects the firm strategies. I prove that programs, which disclose continuous information such as report cards, can lead to self-selection issues within the monopoly product line, whereas those which give discrete information such as the EU flower allow the monopoly perfectly discriminating among consumers. In the second chapter, joint with J. Maxwell and R. Harbaugh, we relax the assumption that consumers know the exact standard that the product has to meet to be labelled. The uncertainty over the standard leads the consumers to jointly estimate the product quality and the standard difficulty. This undermines the ability of voluntary certification to reduce information asymmetry. In the third chapter, joint with J. Rosaz and F. Poinas, we analyze belief updating behaviors with imperfect signals in an experimental setting. The novelty of the paper is to consider a signal that restricts the set of the possible states of the nature. One of the objectives of this chapter is to study the consumer updating behaviors when they observe a label on a product but with the methodologies developed in the Bayesian updating literature. We show that this kind of signals increases the correctness of the subject estimations. However these signals can also let the subjects very uncertain about their estimation which can conduct to adverse effects.

Social or environmental labelling- Consumers’ knowledge, attitudes and preferencesEngelska nyckelord: labelling, social or environmental labelling, eco-labelling, sustainability, transparency, fashion consumer, visual/verbal communication, consumer buying behaviour, green consumerism.Sammanfattning på engelska: In the recent years the Swedish fashion retailers have increased their range of various social or environmental labels on their garments which in return has created confusion amongst the fashion consumers. Currently, there are approximately fourteen different third-party labelling standards in Sweden and a diverse range of self-controlled labelling standards. The reason for this increase can partly be explained by the increasing pressure from various actors to act more sustainably and ethically, and companies having realized a competitive advantage by adopting sustainable strategies. This study provides a preliminary exploration into the types of social and environmental labels that are available on the Swedish market and consumers’ knowledge, attitudes and preferences regarding these labels. Based on two focus group discussions held at two different occasions, respondents indicated that environmental labelling of clothing could influence their purchase decision positively if product related attributes (design and quality) have the same standard as non-sustainable clothing. Although consumers’ knowledge about the social or environmental labels is relatively low, they have an increased interest to learn more about the various labels and the potential environmental impact the fashion industry may cause. However, the growing involvement of taking social or environmental issues into consideration does not always lead to consumers actually purchasing eco-friendlier clothes, and thus these two “identities” are not yet compatible with each other.Additionally, consumers respond differently to positive and negative labelling, where negative labelling seems to have a stronger effect on their feelings and may influence their purchase decision. When it comes to the design of the label, visual and verbal communications are additives and a label should also have a numerical rating system, which states how sustainable a garment is in comparison to other garments. Furthermore, the logo should be more coherent with the fashion industry in terms of colours and illustrations. Moreover, consumers think that there is a lack of information at the point of purchase regarding the social and environmental labels and this should be addressed with either QR-code or by providing a simple brochure. / Program: Textilt management, fashion management

The relationship between international regimes regulating intellectual property, traditional knowledge and biodiversity has received much attention in recent times. Of the many complex and controversial issues in contemporary international legal discourse on this matter, the protection of traditional knowledge (TK) stands out as a significant challenge. Choices abound in the search for modalities to regulate rights to use and control TK systems and their underlying biodiversity. In recent times, the protection of geographical indications (GIs) has emerged as an option for protecting TK. Despite the considerable enthusiasm over it, there is appreciable research dearth on how far and in what context GIs can be used as a protection model. Indeed, not only is the concept of GIs itself widely misunderstood. As well, analyses as to their applicability for protecting TK often reflect underlying cultural differences in the nature, scope and the jurisprudence regarding GIs across jurisdictions. This thesis examines the relationship between GIs and TK, focusing on the responsiveness of GIs to the needs and desires of indigenous peoples and local communities (ILCs). The thesis posits that the search for a model to protect TK should involve identifying different modalities, including those based on intellectual property, to fit to the nature and uses of TK in particular contexts. The analysis conceptualizes GIs as a form of IP that are structurally and functionally suitable to protect aspects of TK in traditional knowledge-based agricultural products (TKBAPs). Substantively, the thesis draws attention to the conceptual underpinnings of GIs as encompassing cultural and economic objectives in the protection of TK. As such, it is argued that stronger protection of GIs should be achieved by integrating the negotiations and discussion concerning GIs and TK at the international level. Further, the case is made for the determination of immediate challenges and long-term opportunities in choosing a legal means for protecting GIs at the national level. In this connection, the thesis suggests that the potential of GIs to meet national and local imperatives to protect TK be assessed, inter alia, based on their instrumentality for economic, biodiversity, cultural and food security objectives in protecting TKBAPs.