Submitted by Rosivalda Pereira (mrs.pereira@ufma.br) on 2017-05-15T17:19:38Z No. of bitstreams: 1 NayaraPerpetuo.pdf: 7668295 bytes, checksum: 0f765dba23524f92df9b455164aed262 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-05-15T17:19:38Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 NayaraPerpetuo.pdf: 7668295 bytes, checksum: 0f765dba23524f92df9b455164aed262 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-04-17 / The present dissertation aims to identify if there is, and how broad can be, the gap between the project created from a strategy for the optimization of a product’s life, and the perception of digital influencers when using fashion products. Initially, an ethnographic approach was applied to reach this objective. The subjects of the research were four digital influencers who, besides consuming, support the dissemination of a consumer culture. A variety of questions related to consumption were important to this research, such as: the ephemerality and permanence of the artifacts, valorizing their symbolic aspects; the construction of identity from clothing; and the role of the researcher who, in the field, also influences the perception of the subjects of the research, as emphasized in the reflexive approaches of ethnography. It was possible to complement the research by expanding it to the application of the cartographic method. I have shown, through analyses, that the actions of the design strategy to optimize the life of fashion products are perceived by the digital influencers from an idea of sustainability. However, these actions are not entirely considered during the use, due to the valorization of the cultural and symbolic aspects, which make this the largest gap among project and use, design and consumer. / Esta dissertação tem como objetivo identificar se há, e quão ampla pode ser, a lacuna entre o projeto desenvolvido a partir da estratégia para otimização da vida de produtos e a percepção das digital influencers no uso dos produtos de moda. Para dar conta deste objetivo, adoto inicialmente uma abordagem etnográfica. Constituíram-se como sujeitos da pesquisa quatro digital influencers, porque além de consumirem, também auxiliam da disseminação de uma cultura de consumo. Questões que advém do consumo, como a efemeridade e a permanência dos artefatos, valorizando os seus aspectos simbólicos; a construção da identidade a partir do vestuário; o papel da pesquisadora, que presente em campo, também é ator que influencia a percepção dos sujeitos de pesquisa, como enfatizado nas abordagens reflexivas da etnografia, foram importantes para esta pesquisa. Foi possível complementar a pesquisa expandindo para a aplicação do método cartográfico. Por meio das análises evidenciei que as ações da estratégia do design para otimizar a vida de produtos de moda são percebidas pelas digital influencers a partir de uma noção de sustentabilidade, contudo não são totalmente consideradas durante o uso devido à valorização dos aspectos simbólicos e culturais fazendo desta a maior lacuna entre projeto e uso, designer e consumidor.

O Design, inserido na complexidade do atual ambiente social, cultural, produtivo e mercadológico se apresenta como uma atividade complexa, o que exige o estudo de estratégias de inovação direcionadas a resolução de problemas de projeto, aplicáveis ao Design de Moda. Nesse sentido, o presente estudo propõe a apresentação de um framework para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário, valendo-se da abordagem teórico-metodológica de Design Estratégico. Frente a essa proposta de estudo, a pesquisa foi desenvolvida em três fases sistêmicas: Epistemologia do Projeto, Praxiologia do Projeto e Pedagogia do Projeto. A primeira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Bibliográfica sobre o tema com o objetivo de refletir sobre a natureza complexa da atividade de Design sob a perspectiva da cultura de projeto, trazendo algumas abordagens conceituais e metodológicas em Design Estratégico e Design de Moda. A segunda fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa de Campo e de um Estudo de Caso com o objetivo identificar as práxis de Design adotadas em empresas de confecção do vestuário vinculadas ao Arranjo Produtivo Local Têxtil e do Vestuário (APL Polovest), localizado na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. Inicialmente, buscou-se identificar a presença e as formas de atuação do Design nestas empresas, e posteriormente, diagnosticar a função do Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em três empresas com potencial para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design. A terceira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Ação com o objetivo de implementar estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda nas três empresas que participaram da fase anterior do estudo. Os resultados obtidos nestas fases da pesquisa permitiram a reflexão sobre a teoria e a prática em Design de Moda, possibilitando a configuração de um framework para orientar a implementação de estratégias de inovação no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário. O framework propõe a construção de uma nova cultura de projeto nestas empresas, capitalizando um conjunto de conhecimentos em torno da ação projetual, a fim de direcionar à identificação, à análise e a resolução de problemas de projeto, inseridos na complexidade da atividade de Design. Portanto, espera-se que a aplicação do framework possa indicar oportunidades de inovação projetual, tornando estas empresas mais competitivas por meio de suas ofertas, com vistas ao fortalecimento do setor do vestuário na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. / Design, inserted in the complexity of the current social, cultural, productive and market environment, represents a complex activity, requiring the study of innovation strategies directed to solving project problems, applicable to Fashion Design. In this regard, the present study proposes a Design framework for implementing innovation strategies in the development of fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies, drawing on the theoretical-methodological approach of Strategic Design. Given this study’s proposal, research was developed in three systemic phases: Project Epistemology, Project Praxeology and Project Pedagogy. The first phase involved a literature review on the theme, which contemplated the complex nature of the Design activity from a project culture perspective, conveying some conceptual and methodological approaches from Strategic and Fashion Design. The second phase involved a Field Survey and a Case Study, with the goal of identifying the Design praxis adopted by apparel manufacturing companies linked to the Local Textile and Clothing Productive Arrangement (APL Polovest), located in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region, southern Brazil. Initially, we sought to identify the presence and proceedings of Design in these companies and, later, to establish the role of Design in the process of fashion products development in three companies, selected for their potential to implement innovation strategies through Design. The third phase involved the execution of an Action Research to implement innovation strategies through Design in the process of developing fashion products in the companies from the previous phase. Results obtained in these research phases supported a critical reflection on Fashion Design theory and practice, as well as the configuration of a framework to guide the implementation of Design innovation strategies in the process of developing fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies. The framework proposes the construction of a novel project culture in these companies, using a set of knowledge capitalized around the project action, guiding the identification, analysis and resolution of project problems inserted into the Design action complexity. Therefore, we may expect the implementation of this framework to reveal opportunities for project innovation, making these companies more competitive through their offerings, with focus on the strengthening of the clothing sector in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region.

O Design, inserido na complexidade do atual ambiente social, cultural, produtivo e mercadológico se apresenta como uma atividade complexa, o que exige o estudo de estratégias de inovação direcionadas a resolução de problemas de projeto, aplicáveis ao Design de Moda. Nesse sentido, o presente estudo propõe a apresentação de um framework para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário, valendo-se da abordagem teórico-metodológica de Design Estratégico. Frente a essa proposta de estudo, a pesquisa foi desenvolvida em três fases sistêmicas: Epistemologia do Projeto, Praxiologia do Projeto e Pedagogia do Projeto. A primeira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Bibliográfica sobre o tema com o objetivo de refletir sobre a natureza complexa da atividade de Design sob a perspectiva da cultura de projeto, trazendo algumas abordagens conceituais e metodológicas em Design Estratégico e Design de Moda. A segunda fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa de Campo e de um Estudo de Caso com o objetivo identificar as práxis de Design adotadas em empresas de confecção do vestuário vinculadas ao Arranjo Produtivo Local Têxtil e do Vestuário (APL Polovest), localizado na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. Inicialmente, buscou-se identificar a presença e as formas de atuação do Design nestas empresas, e posteriormente, diagnosticar a função do Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em três empresas com potencial para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design. A terceira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Ação com o objetivo de implementar estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda nas três empresas que participaram da fase anterior do estudo. Os resultados obtidos nestas fases da pesquisa permitiram a reflexão sobre a teoria e a prática em Design de Moda, possibilitando a configuração de um framework para orientar a implementação de estratégias de inovação no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário. O framework propõe a construção de uma nova cultura de projeto nestas empresas, capitalizando um conjunto de conhecimentos em torno da ação projetual, a fim de direcionar à identificação, à análise e a resolução de problemas de projeto, inseridos na complexidade da atividade de Design. Portanto, espera-se que a aplicação do framework possa indicar oportunidades de inovação projetual, tornando estas empresas mais competitivas por meio de suas ofertas, com vistas ao fortalecimento do setor do vestuário na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. / Design, inserted in the complexity of the current social, cultural, productive and market environment, represents a complex activity, requiring the study of innovation strategies directed to solving project problems, applicable to Fashion Design. In this regard, the present study proposes a Design framework for implementing innovation strategies in the development of fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies, drawing on the theoretical-methodological approach of Strategic Design. Given this study’s proposal, research was developed in three systemic phases: Project Epistemology, Project Praxeology and Project Pedagogy. The first phase involved a literature review on the theme, which contemplated the complex nature of the Design activity from a project culture perspective, conveying some conceptual and methodological approaches from Strategic and Fashion Design. The second phase involved a Field Survey and a Case Study, with the goal of identifying the Design praxis adopted by apparel manufacturing companies linked to the Local Textile and Clothing Productive Arrangement (APL Polovest), located in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region, southern Brazil. Initially, we sought to identify the presence and proceedings of Design in these companies and, later, to establish the role of Design in the process of fashion products development in three companies, selected for their potential to implement innovation strategies through Design. The third phase involved the execution of an Action Research to implement innovation strategies through Design in the process of developing fashion products in the companies from the previous phase. Results obtained in these research phases supported a critical reflection on Fashion Design theory and practice, as well as the configuration of a framework to guide the implementation of Design innovation strategies in the process of developing fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies. The framework proposes the construction of a novel project culture in these companies, using a set of knowledge capitalized around the project action, guiding the identification, analysis and resolution of project problems inserted into the Design action complexity. Therefore, we may expect the implementation of this framework to reveal opportunities for project innovation, making these companies more competitive through their offerings, with focus on the strengthening of the clothing sector in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region.

O Design, inserido na complexidade do atual ambiente social, cultural, produtivo e mercadológico se apresenta como uma atividade complexa, o que exige o estudo de estratégias de inovação direcionadas a resolução de problemas de projeto, aplicáveis ao Design de Moda. Nesse sentido, o presente estudo propõe a apresentação de um framework para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário, valendo-se da abordagem teórico-metodológica de Design Estratégico. Frente a essa proposta de estudo, a pesquisa foi desenvolvida em três fases sistêmicas: Epistemologia do Projeto, Praxiologia do Projeto e Pedagogia do Projeto. A primeira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Bibliográfica sobre o tema com o objetivo de refletir sobre a natureza complexa da atividade de Design sob a perspectiva da cultura de projeto, trazendo algumas abordagens conceituais e metodológicas em Design Estratégico e Design de Moda. A segunda fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa de Campo e de um Estudo de Caso com o objetivo identificar as práxis de Design adotadas em empresas de confecção do vestuário vinculadas ao Arranjo Produtivo Local Têxtil e do Vestuário (APL Polovest), localizado na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. Inicialmente, buscou-se identificar a presença e as formas de atuação do Design nestas empresas, e posteriormente, diagnosticar a função do Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em três empresas com potencial para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design. A terceira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Ação com o objetivo de implementar estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda nas três empresas que participaram da fase anterior do estudo. Os resultados obtidos nestas fases da pesquisa permitiram a reflexão sobre a teoria e a prática em Design de Moda, possibilitando a configuração de um framework para orientar a implementação de estratégias de inovação no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário. O framework propõe a construção de uma nova cultura de projeto nestas empresas, capitalizando um conjunto de conhecimentos em torno da ação projetual, a fim de direcionar à identificação, à análise e a resolução de problemas de projeto, inseridos na complexidade da atividade de Design. Portanto, espera-se que a aplicação do framework possa indicar oportunidades de inovação projetual, tornando estas empresas mais competitivas por meio de suas ofertas, com vistas ao fortalecimento do setor do vestuário na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. / Design, inserted in the complexity of the current social, cultural, productive and market environment, represents a complex activity, requiring the study of innovation strategies directed to solving project problems, applicable to Fashion Design. In this regard, the present study proposes a Design framework for implementing innovation strategies in the development of fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies, drawing on the theoretical-methodological approach of Strategic Design. Given this study’s proposal, research was developed in three systemic phases: Project Epistemology, Project Praxeology and Project Pedagogy. The first phase involved a literature review on the theme, which contemplated the complex nature of the Design activity from a project culture perspective, conveying some conceptual and methodological approaches from Strategic and Fashion Design. The second phase involved a Field Survey and a Case Study, with the goal of identifying the Design praxis adopted by apparel manufacturing companies linked to the Local Textile and Clothing Productive Arrangement (APL Polovest), located in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region, southern Brazil. Initially, we sought to identify the presence and proceedings of Design in these companies and, later, to establish the role of Design in the process of fashion products development in three companies, selected for their potential to implement innovation strategies through Design. The third phase involved the execution of an Action Research to implement innovation strategies through Design in the process of developing fashion products in the companies from the previous phase. Results obtained in these research phases supported a critical reflection on Fashion Design theory and practice, as well as the configuration of a framework to guide the implementation of Design innovation strategies in the process of developing fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies. The framework proposes the construction of a novel project culture in these companies, using a set of knowledge capitalized around the project action, guiding the identification, analysis and resolution of project problems inserted into the Design action complexity. Therefore, we may expect the implementation of this framework to reveal opportunities for project innovation, making these companies more competitive through their offerings, with focus on the strengthening of the clothing sector in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region.

Submitted by GISELY ANDRESSA PIRES null (giselypires@utfpr.edu.br) on 2016-01-13T22:13:24Z No. of bitstreams: 1 O CAD 3D aplicado na validação de protótipos na indústria do vestuário.pdf: 6699414 bytes, checksum: 3c9da5e2f41b1e2eebc435df7af8384f (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Ana Paula Grisoto (grisotoana@reitoria.unesp.br) on 2016-01-14T15:14:33Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 pires_ga_me_bauru_int.pdf: 6699414 bytes, checksum: 3c9da5e2f41b1e2eebc435df7af8384f (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-01-14T15:14:33Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 pires_ga_me_bauru_int.pdf: 6699414 bytes, checksum: 3c9da5e2f41b1e2eebc435df7af8384f (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-12-18 / Não recebi financiamento / A presente pesquisa discute sobre a prática do desenvolvimento de protótipos na indústria do vestuário. O protótipo refere-se à construção de um modelo que está em processo de teste para ser comercializado. Atualmente a forma mais difundida é a construção efetiva das peças, no entanto existe no mercado softwares que realizam essa atividade virtualmente. Assim, esse estudo tem por objetivo verificar a similaridade visual entre os protótipos virtuais e os produzidos no processo tradicional, tendo em vista caimento, forma e volume, para validação de novos projetos na indústria do vestuário. Para tanto, foi desenvolvida uma pesquisa exploratória, e como forma de abordagem do problema foram realizados quatro experimentos que compreendem a construção de protótipos pela técnica virtual e a manual. / This research discusses the practice of prototyping in the apparel industry. The prototype relates to the construction of a model which is in testing process to be marketed. Currently the most widespread form is the actual construction of the pieces, However there is software on the market that perform this activity virtually. Thus, this study aims to verify the visual similarity between the virtual prototypes and those produced in the traditional process, in order to trim, shape and volume for validation of new projects in the clothing industry. To this end, an exploratory research was conducted, and as a way of addressing the problem were conducted four experiments which include the construction of prototypes for virtual and technical manual.

La mode est partout et recouvre de nombreux secteurs, produits, et concerne de près ou de loin de nombreux individus. La fidélité aux produits de mode soulève différentes interrogations concernant ce qui incite le consommateur à les choisir, à rester fidèle à la mode et ceci malgré les changements incessants propres à celle-ci. Cependant nous n’avons pas relevé d’approche se rapportant à une explication de cette fidélité basée sur les valeurs apportées par la mode au niveau du produit et indépendamment des caractéristiques physiques et/ou des fonctionnalités de ce dernier. Au cours de cette recherche notre intérêt portera donc sur la compréhension des raisons poussant l’individu à s’associer à la mode. L’analogie par rapport au capital de marque (Keller, 1993), nous incite à penser que de manière similaire à la marque, la mode apporte de la valeur ajoutée au produit en comparaison à ceux jugés non mode. Nous introduirons le concept de capital de mode afin d’appréhender cette valeur ajoutée que la mode apporte aux produits. L’analyse qualitative menée confirme les valeurs ajoutées par la mode au produit que nous avons identifiées. De plus, les résultats de l’étude empirique menée auprès de suiveurs montrent, comme cela était supposé, que l’attachement joue un rôle médiateur dans la relation liant le capital de mode à la fidélité au niveau du vêtement et du téléphone mobile. Les valeurs ajoutées par la mode contribuent donc au développement d’un attachement et d’une fidélité de la part de l’individu à l’égard de ce qui est mode dans les catégories de produits étudiés. Notre recherche propose ainsi une explication de la fidélité à la mode grâce au capital de mode. / Fashion transcends domains, applies to almost any kind of product and concerns many people. The loyalty towards fashion products raises questions about why and how products appeal to consumers, despite their constantly varying attributes. Furthermore, little is known about how fashion trends may induce people to stay loyal to fashion products. We are not aware of any other approach that explains consumer behavior on the basis of fashion value per se, that is, that a fashion product is of interest because it is explicitly perceived as a fashion item. We propose a new explanation for consumers’ interest in and loyalty to fashion products. Extending the concept of consumer-based brand equity (Keller, 1993), we propose that consumer-based fashion equity may account for the role that fashion plays, in determining consumers’ loyalty—similar to the way brand equity explains why high equity brands appeal more to consumers than do low equity ones. We introduce the concept of fashion equity to account for the value that fashion adds to products. The exploratory study conducted with followers confirms the values added by fashion to product and the results of our analysis demonstrates that attachment is a mediator in the relationships fashion equity-attachment-loyalty for fashion clothe and mobile phone. Therefore, these values contribute to the development of fashion attachment and fashion loyalty. Our research suggests an explanation of loyalty towards fashion thanks to fashion equity.

Consumer purchase decisions is a vital process for online fashion retailers to customers. The Corona pandemic has resulted in more people purchasing through the internet and increase online shopping in Bangladesh than ever before. A limited number of studies provide insight into how consumers are influenced to buy fashion products from online specifically through Facebook. In this regard, it is very important for retailers to present their product and services to consumers in an appropriate way for their digital platform. In Bangladesh, consumers are moving towards online and e-commerce fashion as a new trend now than ever before. Therefore, the author found it interesting to research digital marketing influences in consumers purchase decisions. Existing studies about consumer purchase decisions of fashion product has provided a limited understanding of the phenomenon in terms of Bangladesh. However, overall process of making purchase decisions is studied insufficiently. There is insufficient conceptually reasoned during taking decision to buy a fashion product from Facebook. Consumers are facing challenges due to lack of scholarly investigation, practical advice, practice, strategy for making the right purchase decision in Bangladesh, Additionally, it is difficult to make the right choice and make ideal purchase for them through online and e-commerce experiences. The findings of this study will contribute to the understanding and increase knowledge of consumer purchase decisions from online shopping and furthermore, it is also interesting to see how fashion brands use online platforms like Facebook to promote their fashion brands. In addition, this study will provide a brief introduction to the digital marketing, Facebook advertisement targeting specific consumers and marketers. In general, this study will provide guidelines for those who seek to understand, evaluate, and investigate the digital marketing and the factors that influences purchase decisions. At the same time, this study will deliver guidelines for fashion brand managers on Facebook advertisement process and give them a sense of direction on advertisement content selection and the areas that need more focus while using digital marketing on Facebook. To fulfill the purpose of this study, a qualitative method (inductive approach) was chosen to collect and analyze the relevant data. Data collection has been carried out through telephone interviews with five individual experts in fashion product sourcing, production, marketing, quality, logistics and merchandising in Bangladesh. To move with this research, the author will have to code and systemize the raw data and using the codes has made a theme that are relevant and connected with theoretical framework in this study. The findings were interpret using simple terms and general conclusions were drawn. Product quality, communication, review, recommendation, product aesthetics and price are the key influencer to take fashion product purchase decisions. Beside this, an organized Facebook page, Facebook live show, advertisement content also affects purchase decisions. Sometimes, brand value can influence in purchase fashion product.

Previous research highlighted consumer dissatisfaction with fashion clothing products on offer. There is a lack of information about real consumers needs due to the industry standards of beauty and behaviour as well as a constant rush for innovation that feeds fashion cycles. This research identifies the elements that will enable fashion clothing companies to become more inclusive, and aims to find a methodological relationship between the stakeholders in the fashion industry: consumers, designers and companies. The research considered the difference between a mature market as opposed to emergent ones, and addressed differences between Western and Eastern cultures.