A presente pesquisa tem como objetivo analisar um pequeno conjunto de vestidos denominados alta-costura, presente na coleção Vestuário do Museu de Arte de São Paulo Assis Chateaubriand (MASP) e que foram adquiridos na direção artística de Pietro Maria Bardi (1947 - 1990) e na presidência de Júlio Neves (1994-2008). Tais vestidos, catalogados como advindos das casas Dior e Lanvin, foram incorporados à coleção Vestuário entre os anos de 1951 a 1956 e posteriormente, nos anos de 2002 e 2003. Desse modo, pretende-se analisar o processo de musealização desses vestidos, numa perspectiva histórico-social, além de problematizar a historicidade do colecionismo de vestuário e moda nos anos de aquisição dos objetos, considerando a produção de documentação museológica como um processo curatorial importante na análise empreendida. / The present research aims to analyze a small set of dresses called high fashion, present in the Costume collection of the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP) and which were acquired in the artistic direction of Pietro Maria Bardi (1947 - 1990) and in the presidency of Júlio Neves (1994-2008). These dresses, cataloged as coming from the houses Dior and Lanvin, were incorporated into the Costume collection between the years 1951 to 1956 and later, in the years of 2002 and 2003. In this way, it is intended to analyze the process of musealization of these dresses, from a perspective historical-social, in addition to problematizing the historicity of collecting clothing and fashion in the years of acquisition of objects, considering the production of museological documentation as an important curatorial process in the analysis undertaken.

Research into cultural dynamics and trend mechanisms has been used to “deconstruct” theinfluence structure of fashion in a way that can be applied to a hypothetical design strategy.The design strategy revolves around designing products with the intension to indirectlycommunicate an idea or ideas and by taking advantage of a products emotional value, toincrease structural and cognitive embeddedness of underlying ideas.The application of the strategy is the design of a smart product called “Gelo”. Gelo is a ‘smartwall’ concept that uses soft robotic actuators to transform its surface to adapt to changinglight conditions, improve room acoustics, and produce dynamic visual displays.By using HASEL soft robot actuators for movement, emerging technology could be exploredthrough the medium a conceptual consumer product while also allowing interestingfunctionality to be implemented to the Gelo concept. The addition of this functionalityallowed for ‘display like’ properties which are used to explore the idea of smart home devicesas a way of provide an enhanced emotional experienced.

The project Attitude explores how to build silhouettes with sports gear. By taking elements from hip-hop fashion from the 90`s I will interpret a streetwear collection that is high fashion. The sports gear I have chosen is old material from sports shops, hockey associations and second-hand. Presenting the potential of pre-used gear shows an alternative way of creating a new value for the category streetwear fashion. The supply of gear that I have gathered is limiting and directing my decisions. By building the silhouettes with draping as the design method it will form the final outcome. The combination of sports gear and fashion has previously been explored. The collections have shown the functionality of the gear by applying its original placement; In contrast, The project Attitude will show alternative perspectives on how one can use the gear and push sports fashion and its expression.

The introduction of plus-size models in high fashion has been a highly discussed topic in recent years. Plus-size female models are slowly breaking their way through the boundaries of fashion’s standard for thinness and this can be observed through their visibility within major runway shows. However, this change does not seem as prevalent within high fashion menswear shows since plus-size men are barely being included. Nevertheless, plus-size men exist and fashion can no longer choose to ignore them as they deserve to be acknowledged and represented. Therefore, the purpose of this thesis is to include the plus-size male body within the scope of fashion. A multimethodological approach, combining critical visual analysis, semi-structured interviews and critical theory by Susan Bordo, Michel Foucault and Pierre Bourdieu are used as a way to examine to what extent plus-size men are being included in high fashion, and how this influences the field of fashion. The outcome of the visual analysis reveals that there is still a large lack of inclusion of plus-size men. Furthermore, the field analysis reveals that there is an imbalance within the current field of fashion, and this is one of the main reasons why there is a lack of inclusion of plus-size men within (high) fashion.