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Trajetórias sociais das roupas do Museu Mariano Procópio: tramas e afetosPortela, Andrea Lomeu 10 December 2010 (has links)
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Previous issue date: 2010-12-10 / CAPES - Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Os estudos sobre a indumentária reclamam novas perspectivas sobre as redefinições culturais e sobre a historicidade dos modos de uso dentro da realidade local, por isso temos como proposta lançar um olhar sobre a indumentária do Museu Mariano Procópio. Um lugar que intermedia o histórico de uso dos objetos, que, como roupas, estabeleceram complexa aproximação com os corpos que vestiram provocando reflexões diversas. O colecionismo é a forma como estas roupas foram reunidas, conservadas e estão inseridas no presente e, mesmo não estando em um circuito de recepção e de parte das peças permanecerem incógnitas no museu, a intenção é mostrar que os objetos têm vida social. Buscamos minimizar a condição de representação que comumente é dada às roupas, testando outras dimensões dos objetos e desfazendo antológicas dicotomias para pensar estas roupas como objeto de reflexão antropológica. Traçamos a biografia dos objetos de nosso interesse a partir da coleção de Alfredo Ferreira Laje, na qual encontramos três universos de roupas: trajes reais, trajes militares e trajes femininos. Esta subdivisão nos remete ao contexto feminino de uma época carregada de singularidades, o século XIX, período de formação desta coleção de indumentária e de transformação da lógica de sedução das roupas. É quando atua a dimensão da moda, quando se faz presente e, por vezes, se desfaz. Ao longo do trabalho de campo, procuramos compreender as relações sociais que os objetos mobilizam em suas trajetórias de vida, sobretudo em seu estágio atual. As roupas, tanto como outros objetos, são vívidas e interessam aos novos diálogos que o museu busca travar, num processo de reinvenção de si, desafiando os propósitos da modernidade que tentam sobreviver ao século XXI. As relações sociais vividas no presente, mesmo longe das funções originais para as quais as roupas foram concebidas, parecem mostrar como estes objetos continuam dispersando diferentes ações simbólicas e/ou sensitivas, levando em conta o fato de atribuirmos valores humanos às coisas e, igualmente, a situação inversa. A realidade singular do museu atribui um valor intrínseco ao tempo de existência destas peças, revelando as potências diversas que fazem dos objetos mais que mediadores entre os homens e o mundo, mas participantes do mesmo fluxo vital. / Studies on clothing require new perspectives on cultural redefinitions and the historicity of modes of use within the local reality, so we have proposed to have a look at the clothing Museum Mariano Procopio. A place that mediates the historic use of objects, which, like clothes, established complex approach with the bodies dressed causing several reflections. The collecting is how these clothes were gathered, preserved and are inserted in the present. And, even if not in a reception circuit and parts of the pieces remains as unknowns in the museum, the intention is to show that objects have social life. We seek to minimize the condition of representation that is commonly given to clothing, testing other dimensions of objects and undoing anthological dichotomies to think these clothes as anthropological reflection object. We trace the biography of the objects of our interest from the collection of Alfredo Ferreira Laje, in which we find three universes of clothes: royal robes, military costumes and female outfits. This subdivision refers to the female context of a time charged with singularities, the nineteenth century, period of formation of this collection of clothing and transformation of clothes seduction logic. It is when the fashion dimension acts, when it makes itself present and, sometimes, breaks. During the field work, we seek to understand the social relations that objects mobilize in their life trajectories, especially its current stage. The clothes, as much as other objects, are vivid and interest to the new dialogues of the museum search, in a process of reinventing itself, defying the purpose of modernity that attempt to survive the twenty-first century. The social relationships lived in the present, even away from the original functions for which the clothes were designed, seem to show how these objects continue dispersing different actions symbolic and / or sensitive, taking into account the fact that we attribute human values to things and, also, the reverse situation. The unique museum reality gives an intrinsic value to the time of existence of these pieces, revealing the capacity that makes objects more than mediators between men and the world, but participants in the same vital flow.
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Historier får liv : En etnologisk studie av performans och kulturhistoriska kläder på friluftsmuseet SkansenHylén Ullman, Jeanna January 2022 (has links)
Ever since the beginning, museums around the world have tried using different techniques to attract visitors. Some open-air museums have even started to create small worlds of their own, wherein they perform living history. The idea is that visitors will be able to step into history, and see different time periods with their own eyes. A prime example of an open-air museum that uses this kind of concept, is Skansen in Stockholm. There, visitors can walk around on cobblestone streets and go into old houses, where they are greeted by staff in historical clothing. This thesis examines how Skansen uses performance and historical clothing to teach history, in the quest to create an immersive experience for the visitors. The empirical material consists of observations and interviews with staff at Skansen, as well as visitors. Drawing upon Richard Schechners definition of performance theory, different parts of Skansen are dissected to determine how museums can use this kind of method in order to appeal to visitors. Furthermore, the historical clothing is used as a reference point to gather and analyze the thoughts and experiences of the staff and visitors at Skansen. It became apparent that clothes can help you feel like a part of history, both in the sense that it makes you look different and move your body differently. This highlights how clothing can affect people’s bodies and minds. In that way, we see the relationship between humans and objects, and how they interact in different settings. The interviews also showed that people can have different approaches to the performance aspect. While some appreciate the playful nature of stepping into a role, others can feel uneasy about playing pretend. Nonetheless, many of the staff members stressed that they use the historical clothing to create a new persona, which separates their work life from their free time. This shows that clothing and performance can be used as tools in working environments, in order to protect one’s integrity.
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