Clothing, together with other bodily adornments, is a valuable tool for communicating loyalty, identity and status. The coded messages inherent in the interplay between garments, bodies and society play a fundamental role in political culture, and the early modern era was no exception. The example of Mary I of England and her wardrobe choices demonstrates precisely how useful this tool could be. Through examination of previously-unpublished warrants, information from Privy Purse records, contemporary accounts and portraiture, this thesis analyzes the contents of and changes in Mary I’s wardrobe through the course of her adult life. By examining what the queen wore and when, patterns emerge that correlate with important parts of her political strategies. The first queen regnant, Mary used her wardrobe as a vital tool in the construction of her identity and self-representation, and as a means of navigating through the political and domestic upheavals that threatened her authority. / A work discussing Mary Tudor (Mary I)'s use of clothing as a political tool in mid-sixteenth century England. Includes transcriptions of warrants from the wardrobe of the robes from 1547, 1557, 1558.

The aim of this thesis is to demonstrate that historical costumes can be a valid tool to crystallize and disseminate visual knowledge about fashion and dress history. In the specific, this thesis argues that the screen representation of dress and fashion of the 1860s in the adaptation Senso (1954) provides an evocative contextualization of their past use and meaning for modern viewers. It also discusses the historical accuracy attained by one of the film’s costume designers, Piero Tosi, and his mediation between on-page story and reality. To do this, it visually and textually compares the film costumes, diverse historical documentation and the original novel the film is based on. This analysis is supported by an interdisciplinary theoretical framework: by postmodern history with the concept of historiophoty; by literature and adaptation studies with Genette’s palimpsests and Eco’s reflections on intersemiotic translation; and by costume studies and practitioners with the idea of historical accuracy as a progressive scale and costume as supporting the narrative and balancing the frame.

Submitted by Marlene Santos (marlene.bc.ufg@gmail.com) on 2014-10-22T19:00:31Z No. of bitstreams: 2 Dissertacao - Regis Puppim - 2014.pdf: 12285624 bytes, checksum: 373e1696407287b4c5865465ab71f27f (MD5) license_rdf: 23148 bytes, checksum: 9da0b6dfac957114c6a7714714b86306 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Jaqueline Silva (jtas29@gmail.com) on 2014-10-22T19:11:09Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 2 Dissertacao - Regis Puppim - 2014.pdf: 12285624 bytes, checksum: 373e1696407287b4c5865465ab71f27f (MD5) license_rdf: 23148 bytes, checksum: 9da0b6dfac957114c6a7714714b86306 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2014-10-22T19:11:09Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 Dissertacao - Regis Puppim - 2014.pdf: 12285624 bytes, checksum: 373e1696407287b4c5865465ab71f27f (MD5) license_rdf: 23148 bytes, checksum: 9da0b6dfac957114c6a7714714b86306 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-05-26 / Conselho Nacional de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico - CNPq / The present study aimed to measure the cultural significance of clothing in the Aztec and Mayan civilizations , besides exposing the hierarchy , reflected in dressing practices and compare historical reports and graphical representations , portrayed in contemporary media. Thus, the work was devided into three stages: Imaging survey (Chapter 1: The history viewed), literature review (Chapter 2: The history read) and field research (Chapter 3: A living history). The first chapter emphasized the analysis of representations of the clothing of the Aztecs and Mayans, enabling the interpretation noted by several authors, in three different medias: Electronic game Age of Empires II: The Conquerors, the animation The Road to Eldorado and feature film Apocalypto. The second chapter allows to understand how History and the History of Fashion and Dress Code narrate these nations, especially about costumes. Finally, the third chapter unraveled the strong legacy left by these civilizations, even though not much explored by other types of research. Therefore, the study revealed that the solid hierarchical relationships within the classic Mesoamerican societies are still seen by media artists and contemporary fashion brands. / El presente estudio tuvo como objetivo medir la importancia cultural de la ropa en las civilizaciones azteca y maya, además de la exposición de la jerarquía, que se refleja en las prácticas de vestir y comparación de los informes históricos y las representaciones gráficas, retratados en los medios de comunicación contemporáneos. Para ello, se divide el trabajo en tres etapas: estudio de imágenes (Capítulo 1: La visión de la Historia), revisión de la literatura (Capítulo 2: La historia leída) y la investigación de campo (Capítulo 3: una historia vivida). El primer capítulo enfatiza el análisis de las representaciones de la ropa de los aztecas y más, lo que permite la interpretación han señalado varios autores, en tres medios diferentes: Electrónico juego Age of Empires II: The Conquerors, la animación The Road to El Dorado y la película Apocalypto. En el segundo capítulo, nos permite comprender cómo la Historia y la Historia de la Moda y el Código de Vestimenta dice esta gente, sobre todo cuando se trata de disfraces. Finalmente, el tercer capítulo fue desentrañar el fuerte legado dejado por estas civilizaciones, aunque poco explorado en otros tipos de investigación. Por lo tanto, el estudio reveló que las relaciones jerárquicas sólidos dentro de las sociedades mesoamericanas clásicas siguen siendo vistos por los artistas de medios y marcas de moda contemporáneas. / A presente investigação objetivou mensurar o significado cultural da indumentária nas civilizações Asteca e Maia, além de expor a hierarquização, refletida nas práticas vestimentares e comparar relatos históricos e representações gráficas, retratadas em mídias contemporâneas. Para tanto, dividimos o trabalho em três etapas: levantamento imagético (Capítulo 1: A história vista), revisão bibliográfica (Capítulo 2: A história lida) e pesquisa de campo (Capítulo 3: a história vivida). O primeiro capítulo ressaltou a análise das representações da indumentária dos Astecas e Mais, possibilitando notar a interpretação de diversos autores, em três distintas mídias: O jogo eletrônico Age of Empires II: The Conquerors, a animação O Caminho para Eldorado e o filme de longa metragem Apocalypto. Já o segundo capítulo, permitiu compreender como a História e a História da Moda e da Indumentária narra estes povos, sobretudo, no que se refere aos trajes. E, por fim, o terceiro capítulo possibilitou desvendar o forte legado deixado por estas civilizações, mesmo que pouco explorado em outras modalidades de pesquisas. Portanto, o trabalho revelou que as sólidas relações hierárquicas dentro das sociedades mesoamericanas clássicas são ainda visto por mídias, artistas e marcas de moda contemporâneas.