Ano após ano, o Brasil tem apontado elevados números que não apenas o qualificam como um potencial consumidor de produtos de moda como também de um sólido importador de matérias primas têxteis, incluindo-se artigos de vestuário em malharia circular. Alvo deste estudo, as micro e pequenas confecções de moda da região metropolitana de Campinas (SP) apresentam importantes indicativos de uso desse material têxtil como sustentação ao seu desenvolvimento de produtos. Dada a situação de deficiente demanda mercantil de artigos de moda enfrentada pelo país, buscam-se alternativas de sobrevivência para essas micro e pequenas empresas num acirrado espaço comercial. Portanto, esta pesquisa é pautada pela investigação histórica do uso social dos artigos de malha circular, a compreensão de suas peculiaridades fabris, o entendimento de seu posicionamento comercial, e ainda, investiga métodos de desenvolvimento de produtos que possam tornar os artigos de vestuário oriundos dessas malhas, mais interessantes do ponto de vista comercial às pequenas e médias empresas da região metropolitana de Campinas. Tendo como ponto de partida referenciais metodológicos em design industrial explorados por Bernd Löbach, a pesquisa soma conceitos em design de moda explorados por Doris Treptow. A pesquisa apresenta ainda um estudo de caso em uma empresa da região citada onde foi aplicada a metodologia de projeto combinada / Year after year Brazil has pointed to large numbers not only qualify as a potential consumer of fashion products as well as a solid importer of textile raw materials, including garments in circular knitting. Aim of this study, micro and small clothing companies in the metropolitan region of Campinas (SP) present important indicators of use of this textile as support to their product development. Given the situation of poor market demand for fashion items facing the country, seek to survival alternatives for these micro and small businesses in a fierce commercial space. So this research is guided by historical investigation of the social use of circular knitted items, understanding its manufacturing peculiarities, understanding of its commercial positioning it, and also investigates product development methods that can make garments arising from these knitwear, more interesting from a commercial point of view to small and medium-sized enterprises in the metropolitan region of Campinas. The starting point methodological references in industrial design exploited by Bernd Löbach, research sum concepts in fashion design run by Doris Treptow. The project also presents a case study of a microenterprise the said region should collaborate with the completion of this project

Creative Journeys contribute to our knowledge of how practical ontology navigates multi-perspectives through an auto-ethnographic journey with material. I investigate how it may be possible to navigate geographic locations – Norway, Britain and Spain – through knitting as an approach to practical and philosophical exploration. In Creative Journeys I am in a process of reflexive practice, engaged in external and internal dialogue, haptic encounters, challenges and creative action. My thesis suggests that engagement with material is a fluid process and understanding evolves, so too does my journey in life. In such circumstances material functions as a mediator; creates a bridge between hand, movement, time and space. Material transcends boundaries, assists orientation and facilitates articulation of aesthetics, reminiscence, symbols, patterns, colour, sensory appreciation; all of which contribute to an understanding of relationships. Body is material and being conscious of body movement with the rhythm of diverse locations enables me to make connections through daily events, to attune to different atmospheres. In such a journey there are moments of harmony and misunderstanding, discord and adjustments; interruptions occur with energy and disrupt patterns of life. These are crossing points which enable me to experience myself through the perspective of the other; to understand how situated knowledge changes in relation to diverse perspectives; and to understand how I may contribute to the social fabric of life of diverse locations through the art of paying attention to detail. Creative Journeys are investigated through three questions: How do I relate to the world? How do art subjectivities manifest themselves through art practice? How does art evolve through relations? The questions are examined within the perspective of situated knowledge; subjectivities; material of location and practice. Investigating material in the context of these questions provides opportunities to develop capacities to navigate social, cultural and political orientation, economy, health, race, gender and belief, which all impact on the journey. My approach to the thesis evolved through my relations with creative works of knitted artefacts which I documented in personal journals. The components of practice have woven threads of inquiry through theory and reflective critical practice and form an aspect of the viva voce examination. Along with the illustrations they contribute to 20% of the written component of the thesis.

Includes the novel and exegetical essay. / With: "Knitting a novel" in the back section of the volume bound upside down. / Bibliography: p. 92-97. / 97, 244 p. ; 30cm. / Title page, contents and abstract only. The complete thesis in print form is available from the University Library. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Adelaide, School of Humanities and Social Sciences, Discipline of English, Creative Writing, 2006

Knitting fabric industry is a particular branch with obviously industrial cluster in textile industry, having the sufficient resources of raw materials, the rapid mobility of productivity, the mature dyeing and finishing technologies, the extensive experience in international trade, though having the complicated process to the variable products, has developed a completed supply chain of its own. In which closely the composition of the medium or small or even micro enterprise to create the competitive strengths on the whole industry, brings up Taiwan being a major exporting country of knitting fabric worldwide. From the evolution of environment, of market demanding, of trading partners, and the future trends, thru the in-depth interviewing with the representative figures and the experts of the industry, government, academia, R&D, in this research to investigate & analyze their points of view and suggestions for the reference of the field. The research results show, at the supply end, Taiwan has become an ODM manufacturer but not just OEM maker. At the product end, the environment protection and carbon reducing are now strictly requiring on the manufacturing of functional and fashionable hi-tec products. At marketing end, the vertical consolidation among supply chains and the name brands retailers, traders, garment factories, fabric converters, up to yarn mills, the supply chain integrate and the strategic alliance to the new products developing to cause the big bigger, in quick response to the trends now a day the fast fashion and short life cycle with meager profits. To position on the innovational products to meet consumer¡¦s demands, create demanding to create profits.

This dissertation is situated at the crossroads of sociology, anthropology, and marketing. Theories of the former two disciplines inform phenomena of the latter. The focal phenomenon is the role of aestheticized markets in contemporary formations of middle-class masculinity and femininity in the U.S. Aestheticized markets are those that incorporate refined notions of beauty, originality, and superiority. This process has been a core force in the expansion of consumer markets in early and late capitalism. In addition to opening up new markets, the aestheticization of markets opens up new subjectivities. It instills in individuals the desire to better themselves through the quest for novel, sensory-pleasing experiences, and it offers them renewed resources to define their social affiliations. My dissertation studies the formation of gendered and classed subjectivities using the empirical contexts of two middle-class, gendered markets that have been recently aestheticized in the U.S.: craft beer and knitting. Unlike three decades ago, craft beer drinkers can now indulge in a variety of flavors and premium styles, produced by more than 3,000 breweries. Likewise, knitters can now indulge in a variety of colors and premium fibers, as noted by a number of high-circulation magazines and scholarly papers. I studied these markets for about four years, conducting participant-observation, interviews, and document analysis. The results of this fieldwork are organized in two empirical chapters. The first focuses on the institutional and non-institutional processes that alter middle-class men's relationships with the aesthetic dimension of a particular market; the empirical context is craft beer. The second empirical chapter documents how middle-class women deploy the ideological and material resources provided by aestheticized markets in gender struggles; the empirical context is knitting. Together, these chapters explicate how gender positions shape the way middle-class individuals learn and display aesthetic expertise. The knowledge of these processes provides both theoretical contributions to the literature on taste, class, and gender, and managerial insight into how market institutions can develop programs that initiate a meaningful, long-term engagement with consumers based on classed and gendered approaches to aesthetic involvement.

Esta dissertação trata do tema desenho técnico do vestuário. O objetivo deste trabalho foi sistematizar diretrizes para a representação gráfica técnica de acabamentos, detalhes, linhas e cotas em produtos do vestuário do segmento de malharia circular com vistas à sua normalização. A pesquisa foi classificada como aplicada, qualitativa e exploratória. A coleta de dados ocorreu por meio de entrevistas semiestruturadas e coleta documental realizadas de forma presencial e por meio eletrônico (e-mail). Os participantes foram sete docentes de disciplinas de desenho técnico que atuam em instituições de ensino superior que possuem cursos de moda em nível bacharelado e, oito profissionais do desenvolvimento de produto de empresas de confecção do vestuário que trabalham com malha circular. Com isso, foi possível diagnosticar como é feita a representação de desenhos técnicos do vestuário nestes dois ambientes, o acadêmico e o industrial, localizados em diferentes regiões brasileiras. Os resultados das entrevistas foram apresentados através de quadros comparativos com cruzamento dos dados coletados. Como resultado, apresentam-se diretrizes para a construção do desenho e representação de cores, linhas, cotas/medidas. Outro produto deste trabalho é um catálogo dos principais acabamentos e detalhes utilizados em malha circular com descrições, imagens e representações técnicas dos mesmos. / This dissertation deals with the theme of technical drawing of clothing. The aim of this study was to propose guidelines for graphical representation technique of finishing, details, lines and quotas on clothing products of circular knitting segment to achieve its normalization. The research was classified as applied, exploratory and qualitative. Data collection occurred through semi-structured interviews and documentary collection both conducted face-to-face form and by electronic means (e-mail). Participants consisted of seven professors of technical drawing disciplines who work in institutions of higher education that have fashion courses in the Bachelor level. In addition to the professors, eight product development professionals of knitting clothing companies who work with circular mesh also participated. With this, it was possible to diagnose how is the representation of technical drawings of clothing in these two environments, the academic and the industrial, located in different regions of Brazil. The interview responses were presented through comparative tables including the collected data. As a result, guidelines are presented for the construction of the drawing and representation of colors, lines, dimensions/measurements. Another product of this work is a catalogue of the main finishing and details used in circular knit with descriptions, images and representations of the referred techniques.

Esta dissertação trata do tema desenho técnico do vestuário. O objetivo deste trabalho foi sistematizar diretrizes para a representação gráfica técnica de acabamentos, detalhes, linhas e cotas em produtos do vestuário do segmento de malharia circular com vistas à sua normalização. A pesquisa foi classificada como aplicada, qualitativa e exploratória. A coleta de dados ocorreu por meio de entrevistas semiestruturadas e coleta documental realizadas de forma presencial e por meio eletrônico (e-mail). Os participantes foram sete docentes de disciplinas de desenho técnico que atuam em instituições de ensino superior que possuem cursos de moda em nível bacharelado e, oito profissionais do desenvolvimento de produto de empresas de confecção do vestuário que trabalham com malha circular. Com isso, foi possível diagnosticar como é feita a representação de desenhos técnicos do vestuário nestes dois ambientes, o acadêmico e o industrial, localizados em diferentes regiões brasileiras. Os resultados das entrevistas foram apresentados através de quadros comparativos com cruzamento dos dados coletados. Como resultado, apresentam-se diretrizes para a construção do desenho e representação de cores, linhas, cotas/medidas. Outro produto deste trabalho é um catálogo dos principais acabamentos e detalhes utilizados em malha circular com descrições, imagens e representações técnicas dos mesmos. / This dissertation deals with the theme of technical drawing of clothing. The aim of this study was to propose guidelines for graphical representation technique of finishing, details, lines and quotas on clothing products of circular knitting segment to achieve its normalization. The research was classified as applied, exploratory and qualitative. Data collection occurred through semi-structured interviews and documentary collection both conducted face-to-face form and by electronic means (e-mail). Participants consisted of seven professors of technical drawing disciplines who work in institutions of higher education that have fashion courses in the Bachelor level. In addition to the professors, eight product development professionals of knitting clothing companies who work with circular mesh also participated. With this, it was possible to diagnose how is the representation of technical drawings of clothing in these two environments, the academic and the industrial, located in different regions of Brazil. The interview responses were presented through comparative tables including the collected data. As a result, guidelines are presented for the construction of the drawing and representation of colors, lines, dimensions/measurements. Another product of this work is a catalogue of the main finishing and details used in circular knit with descriptions, images and representations of the referred techniques.

Ano após ano, o Brasil tem apontado elevados números que não apenas o qualificam como um potencial consumidor de produtos de moda como também de um sólido importador de matérias primas têxteis, incluindo-se artigos de vestuário em malharia circular. Alvo deste estudo, as micro e pequenas confecções de moda da região metropolitana de Campinas (SP) apresentam importantes indicativos de uso desse material têxtil como sustentação ao seu desenvolvimento de produtos. Dada a situação de deficiente demanda mercantil de artigos de moda enfrentada pelo país, buscam-se alternativas de sobrevivência para essas micro e pequenas empresas num acirrado espaço comercial. Portanto, esta pesquisa é pautada pela investigação histórica do uso social dos artigos de malha circular, a compreensão de suas peculiaridades fabris, o entendimento de seu posicionamento comercial, e ainda, investiga métodos de desenvolvimento de produtos que possam tornar os artigos de vestuário oriundos dessas malhas, mais interessantes do ponto de vista comercial às pequenas e médias empresas da região metropolitana de Campinas. Tendo como ponto de partida referenciais metodológicos em design industrial explorados por Bernd Löbach, a pesquisa soma conceitos em design de moda explorados por Doris Treptow. A pesquisa apresenta ainda um estudo de caso em uma empresa da região citada onde foi aplicada a metodologia de projeto combinada / Year after year Brazil has pointed to large numbers not only qualify as a potential consumer of fashion products as well as a solid importer of textile raw materials, including garments in circular knitting. Aim of this study, micro and small clothing companies in the metropolitan region of Campinas (SP) present important indicators of use of this textile as support to their product development. Given the situation of poor market demand for fashion items facing the country, seek to survival alternatives for these micro and small businesses in a fierce commercial space. So this research is guided by historical investigation of the social use of circular knitted items, understanding its manufacturing peculiarities, understanding of its commercial positioning it, and also investigates product development methods that can make garments arising from these knitwear, more interesting from a commercial point of view to small and medium-sized enterprises in the metropolitan region of Campinas. The starting point methodological references in industrial design exploited by Bernd Löbach, research sum concepts in fashion design run by Doris Treptow. The project also presents a case study of a microenterprise the said region should collaborate with the completion of this project

Esta dissertação trata do tema desenho técnico do vestuário. O objetivo deste trabalho foi sistematizar diretrizes para a representação gráfica técnica de acabamentos, detalhes, linhas e cotas em produtos do vestuário do segmento de malharia circular com vistas à sua normalização. A pesquisa foi classificada como aplicada, qualitativa e exploratória. A coleta de dados ocorreu por meio de entrevistas semiestruturadas e coleta documental realizadas de forma presencial e por meio eletrônico (e-mail). Os participantes foram sete docentes de disciplinas de desenho técnico que atuam em instituições de ensino superior que possuem cursos de moda em nível bacharelado e, oito profissionais do desenvolvimento de produto de empresas de confecção do vestuário que trabalham com malha circular. Com isso, foi possível diagnosticar como é feita a representação de desenhos técnicos do vestuário nestes dois ambientes, o acadêmico e o industrial, localizados em diferentes regiões brasileiras. Os resultados das entrevistas foram apresentados através de quadros comparativos com cruzamento dos dados coletados. Como resultado, apresentam-se diretrizes para a construção do desenho e representação de cores, linhas, cotas/medidas. Outro produto deste trabalho é um catálogo dos principais acabamentos e detalhes utilizados em malha circular com descrições, imagens e representações técnicas dos mesmos. / This dissertation deals with the theme of technical drawing of clothing. The aim of this study was to propose guidelines for graphical representation technique of finishing, details, lines and quotas on clothing products of circular knitting segment to achieve its normalization. The research was classified as applied, exploratory and qualitative. Data collection occurred through semi-structured interviews and documentary collection both conducted face-to-face form and by electronic means (e-mail). Participants consisted of seven professors of technical drawing disciplines who work in institutions of higher education that have fashion courses in the Bachelor level. In addition to the professors, eight product development professionals of knitting clothing companies who work with circular mesh also participated. With this, it was possible to diagnose how is the representation of technical drawings of clothing in these two environments, the academic and the industrial, located in different regions of Brazil. The interview responses were presented through comparative tables including the collected data. As a result, guidelines are presented for the construction of the drawing and representation of colors, lines, dimensions/measurements. Another product of this work is a catalogue of the main finishing and details used in circular knit with descriptions, images and representations of the referred techniques.

This project explores alternative ideals and norms in textile design, using repair as a design parameter. Facing the age of the Anthropocene, the work aims to investigate how repair can be integrated into the design process in order to deal with the Earth’s scarce material resources. By formulating an alternative design method around a concept of repair, this project investigates a holistic way of developing textiles. The result is a design method, supported by a collection of three design examples. By exploring alternative methods for conducting textiles, this project aims to force new ideals and norms within the textile design field.