The main focus of this study was to explore how personal constructions, consisting of latent and conscious schema, and obtained from a culturally sensitive interpretation of the RCS, informed the transactional resilience of Black South African adolescents. This study was motivated in view of limited knowledge available about the (i) processes that are generic to the resilience-promoting transactions of Black South African adolescents and (ii) to potentiate insight into an adolescent’s construction of personal meaning of her conscious and unconscious experiences that may not always be easily recognised in her overt behaviour or by self-report measures often used in South African resilience research. Six Black South African adolescents aged 14 to 16 years volunteered to take part in this multiple case study. The participants were identified as resilient by an advisory panel consisting of learners and educators at an English-medium school in the Vaal Triangle area. In this essentially qualitative study, qualitative data obtained from an unstructured individual interview, unstructured observations, and a follow-up interview were integrated with the data obtained from a culturally sensitive, conceptual interpretation of these Black adolescents’ Rorschach protocols. The structural, quantitative data obtained from specific indicators in Exner’s Comprehensive System were interpreted in a culturally sensitive manner and integrated with the qualitative data obtained from the Rorschach protocols. A culturally sensitive, conceptual framework for interpreting Rorschach indicators associated with adolescents’ transactional resilience was provided. These findings indicated individual and ecological protective resources well known within South African resilience research. Findings that contributed new understanding of the transactional processes associated with Black South African adolescent resilience were also obtained. Four case-specific self-reflective strategies were identified, namely, emotional stoicism, frequent introspection, honouring the past, and adopting a new identity. These selfreflective strategies served as the participants’ unique ways of compensating for their adversity-informed schema as well as encouraging them to navigate towards the sustained support of specific significant others and resilience-promoting ecological resources. The participants indicated that attachment challenges brought about repressed feelings and specific security needs, which shaped their resilience-promoting navigation and enabled them to self-knit in a resilient way. / Thesis (Ph.D. (Education))--North-West University, Vaal Triangle Campus, 2011

A prática da inovação contribui para o desenvolvimento econômico por oportunizar a criação de novos mercados e o aperfeiçoamento de mercados existentes, gerando benefícios para produtores e consumidores de produtos e serviços novos ou melhorados pela inovação. O setor têxtil engloba um conjunto de atividades que proporcionam o surgimento de indústrias dos diversos segmentos têxteis, desde a origem da matéria-prima, natural ou artificial, até o acabamento do produto final. Esta dissertação de mestrado objetivou identificar as inovações do setor de malharia retilínea ocorridas no período de 2008 a 2011 e, a partir da análise da literatura, identificar as mudanças no setor, desde a década de 80, no Brasil, até as inovações do setor industrial de malharia retilínea do município de Caxias do Sul, por meio das quatro dimensões da inovação, segundo o Manual de Oslo (2005): a inovação de produto, de processo, de marketing e organizacional. O método de pesquisa utilizada possui abordagem qualitativa e quantitativa, de natureza aplicada, com objetivos exploratório e descritivo. O procedimento técnico utilizado foi o estudo de caso múltiplo, sendo a fase qualitativa, de cunho exploratório e descritivo. Na fase quantitativa, foi utilizada uma survey, com um questionário estruturado como instrumento de coleta de dados, que foi aplicado aos gestores e/ou proprietários das indústrias de malhas retilíneas de Caxias do Sul, associadas no FITEMASUL de Caxias do Sul, totalizando uma população de 23 empresas. A análise dos dados aconteceu em duas etapas, na etapa qualitativa, foi utilizada a análise de conteúdo da entrevista e na etapa quantitativa, foi utilizada a análise quantitativa descritiva, através da correlação dos dados obtidos, para a identificação do nível de relação entre as variáveis do construto teórico. Os resultados da fase qualitativa identificaram que o setor de malharia retilínea de Caxias do Sul, investe em inovação, de acordo com as exigências do mercado e as tendências de moda. Os resultados quantitativos, cujo objetivo foi verificar relações entre variáveis da inovação e da indústria, identificaram correlações entre as variáveis. Nas correlações moderadas positivas (0,5 ≤ p < 0,8) houve correlação entre a variável: faturamento anual, com as variáveis: número de colaboradores e valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: número de colaboradores com a variável: valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: mão de obra qualificada com as variáveis: valor investido em inovação de produto e valor investido em inovação organizacional; a variável: valor investido em inovação de produto com a variável: valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: valor investido em inovação de produto com a variável: valor investido em inovação organizacional. Nas correlações fracas positivas (0,1 ≤ p < 0,5) houve correlação entre a variável: número de colaboradores com as variáveis: valor investido em inovação de produto, valor investido em inovação organizacional e a variável: mão de obra qualificada. / Submitted by Marcelo Teixeira (mvteixeira@ucs.br) on 2014-04-29T12:43:54Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertacao Paula P. Ganzer.pdf: 6242690 bytes, checksum: c33e67f12812ee75b1c68ada52172f8e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2014-04-29T12:43:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertacao Paula P. Ganzer.pdf: 6242690 bytes, checksum: c33e67f12812ee75b1c68ada52172f8e (MD5) / The practice of innovation contributes to economic development by creating the opportunity to develop new markets and improve the existing markets, generating benefits for producers and consumers of products and services news or improved by innovation. The textile sector encompasses a set of activities that provide the appearance of various segments of textile industries, since the origin of raw material, natural or artificial, to the finish of the final product. This dissertation aimed to investigate the innovations of the flat knitting sector occurred on the period 2008 to 2011, and through the literature review identify the changes in the industry since the 80’s, in Brazil, to the innovations of the industrial flat knitting of Caxias do Sul, by the four dimensions of innovation, according to the Oslo Manual (2005): product innovation, process innovation, marketing innovation and organizational innovation. The research method used has qualitative and quantitative approach, using the applied nature, exploratory and descriptive purposes. The technique proceeding used was the multiple case study, and the qualitative phase used exploratory and descriptive methods. In the quantitative phase, it was used a survey with a structured questionnaire as an instrument for data collection, which was applied to managers and/or owners of industries of rectilinear mesh of Caxias do Sul, associated to FITEMASUL of Caxias do Sul, with a total population of 23 companies. The data analysis took place in two stages, in the qualitative phase, we used the content analysis of the interview and the quantitative stage, it was used descriptive quantitative analysis, through the correlation of the data, in order to identify the level of relationship between variables of the theoretical construct. The results of the qualitative phase identified that the flat knitting sector of Caxias do Sul invests in innovation, according to the market demands and fashion trends. The quantitative results, aimed to verify relationships between variables of innovation and industry identified correlations between the variables of innovation. In moderate positive correlations (0,5 ≤ p < 0,8) it was identified a correlation between the variable: annual revenues, with the variables: number of employees and amount invested in marketing innovation, the variable: number of employees with variable: amount invested in marketing innovation, the variable: skilled labor with the variables: amount invested in product innovation and value invested in organizational innovation, the variable: amount invested in product innovation with the variable: value invested in marketing innovation, the variable: amount invested in product innovation with the variable: amount invested in organizational innovation. In the weak positive correlations (0,1 ≤ p < 0,5) it was identified correlation between the variable: number of employees with variables: amount invested in product innovation, value invested in organizational innovation and the variable: skilled labor.

Textile design has long been known for its craft related and traditional ways of working. Different designers and artist have found a way of approaching the field from an unconventional perspective. The aim of this project is to demonstrate an alternative way of approaching the field by applying traditional methods to unconventional materials. By doing so the hope is to bring joy and playfulness to the field. As a final result the three groups consisting of nine objects present ways that knit can be used to sculpt and to lend flexibility when combined with stiffer structures, therefore giving way for movement and transformability. Object Poetry engages the viewer to interact and experience fun.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-12-17T14:57:51Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 VladimirAMC_capa_ate_cap2pdf.pdf: 1064881 bytes, checksum: ad3fb45b35e0f929ffd17f2ade8f17c2 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008-08-15 / In the manufacture of composite, textile materials are being used as reinforcement. Generally, the combination of the matrix with the textile material in the form of fibres or yarns is used depending on their distribution in the web. In the present work, in place of fibres or yarns, a knitted structure in the form of the final product which is defined as preform. The preform is weft knit manufactured with polyester filaments. In the manufacture of composite, polyester resin was used as matrix. The physical and mechanical properties as well as the formability of the weft knit were analysed. The physical and mechanical properties as well as the formability of the knitted structure were analysed. The results obtained on the analysis show that the courses and wales of the weft knit structure and the tensile properties help the formability of the structure and the impregnation of the resin. It could be clearly observed that composite structure in the direction of the courses support more tension than in the direction of the wales. In relation to the three points flexural tests it was possible to note that there was more flexion in the direction of wales, what was expected. It was also possible to note that there are other advantages such as reduction in the loss of materials used, homogeneity in the distribution of the knitted structure in the mould, reduction in the preparation time and also in the reduction in the cost of manufacture / Na fabrica??o de comp?sitos, resultados da jun??o da resina como matriz e o material t?xtil como refor?o, o material t?xtil usualmente utilizado como refor?o, est? no formato de filamentos ou fibras soltas, que s?o aplicados diretamente sobre um molde, essa distribui??o aleat?ria do material pode ocasionar pontos fracos na estrutura j? que n?o garante uma distribui??o homogenia. No presente trabalho, em vez de fios ou fibras, foi utilizada uma malha t?xtil, fabricada na forma do produto final, que defini-se como pr?-forma, melhorando a distribui??o do material sobre o molde,. Esta pr?-forma foi fabricada em malha de trama (malha Jersey) com filamento de poli?ster e a resina de poli?ster foi utilizada como matriz na fabrica??o desse comp?sito. As propriedades f?sicas, mec?nicas e formabilidade das la?adas foram analisadas. Os resultados das propriedades da malha Jersey estudadas mostram que as la?adas da malha e as propriedades tensil ajudam a formabilidade da estrutura e a facilitam a impregna??o da resina. Claramente pode-se observar que a estrutura de comp?sito na dire??o de coluna suporta maior tens?o em compara??o com a estrutura na dire??o da carreira. Com rela??o ao teste de flex?o de tr?s pontos, foi poss?vel verificar maior flex?o no sentido da carreira, o que foi esperado. Foi poss?vel pontuar tamb?m outras vantagens como a redu??o de perdas de materiais, homogeneidade na distribui??o da estrutura de malha no molde, redu??o do tempo de produ??o e barateamento nos custos produtivos

A prática da inovação contribui para o desenvolvimento econômico por oportunizar a criação de novos mercados e o aperfeiçoamento de mercados existentes, gerando benefícios para produtores e consumidores de produtos e serviços novos ou melhorados pela inovação. O setor têxtil engloba um conjunto de atividades que proporcionam o surgimento de indústrias dos diversos segmentos têxteis, desde a origem da matéria-prima, natural ou artificial, até o acabamento do produto final. Esta dissertação de mestrado objetivou identificar as inovações do setor de malharia retilínea ocorridas no período de 2008 a 2011 e, a partir da análise da literatura, identificar as mudanças no setor, desde a década de 80, no Brasil, até as inovações do setor industrial de malharia retilínea do município de Caxias do Sul, por meio das quatro dimensões da inovação, segundo o Manual de Oslo (2005): a inovação de produto, de processo, de marketing e organizacional. O método de pesquisa utilizada possui abordagem qualitativa e quantitativa, de natureza aplicada, com objetivos exploratório e descritivo. O procedimento técnico utilizado foi o estudo de caso múltiplo, sendo a fase qualitativa, de cunho exploratório e descritivo. Na fase quantitativa, foi utilizada uma survey, com um questionário estruturado como instrumento de coleta de dados, que foi aplicado aos gestores e/ou proprietários das indústrias de malhas retilíneas de Caxias do Sul, associadas no FITEMASUL de Caxias do Sul, totalizando uma população de 23 empresas. A análise dos dados aconteceu em duas etapas, na etapa qualitativa, foi utilizada a análise de conteúdo da entrevista e na etapa quantitativa, foi utilizada a análise quantitativa descritiva, através da correlação dos dados obtidos, para a identificação do nível de relação entre as variáveis do construto teórico. Os resultados da fase qualitativa identificaram que o setor de malharia retilínea de Caxias do Sul, investe em inovação, de acordo com as exigências do mercado e as tendências de moda. Os resultados quantitativos, cujo objetivo foi verificar relações entre variáveis da inovação e da indústria, identificaram correlações entre as variáveis. Nas correlações moderadas positivas (0,5 ≤ p < 0,8) houve correlação entre a variável: faturamento anual, com as variáveis: número de colaboradores e valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: número de colaboradores com a variável: valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: mão de obra qualificada com as variáveis: valor investido em inovação de produto e valor investido em inovação organizacional; a variável: valor investido em inovação de produto com a variável: valor investido em inovação de marketing; a variável: valor investido em inovação de produto com a variável: valor investido em inovação organizacional. Nas correlações fracas positivas (0,1 ≤ p < 0,5) houve correlação entre a variável: número de colaboradores com as variáveis: valor investido em inovação de produto, valor investido em inovação organizacional e a variável: mão de obra qualificada. / The practice of innovation contributes to economic development by creating the opportunity to develop new markets and improve the existing markets, generating benefits for producers and consumers of products and services news or improved by innovation. The textile sector encompasses a set of activities that provide the appearance of various segments of textile industries, since the origin of raw material, natural or artificial, to the finish of the final product. This dissertation aimed to investigate the innovations of the flat knitting sector occurred on the period 2008 to 2011, and through the literature review identify the changes in the industry since the 80’s, in Brazil, to the innovations of the industrial flat knitting of Caxias do Sul, by the four dimensions of innovation, according to the Oslo Manual (2005): product innovation, process innovation, marketing innovation and organizational innovation. The research method used has qualitative and quantitative approach, using the applied nature, exploratory and descriptive purposes. The technique proceeding used was the multiple case study, and the qualitative phase used exploratory and descriptive methods. In the quantitative phase, it was used a survey with a structured questionnaire as an instrument for data collection, which was applied to managers and/or owners of industries of rectilinear mesh of Caxias do Sul, associated to FITEMASUL of Caxias do Sul, with a total population of 23 companies. The data analysis took place in two stages, in the qualitative phase, we used the content analysis of the interview and the quantitative stage, it was used descriptive quantitative analysis, through the correlation of the data, in order to identify the level of relationship between variables of the theoretical construct. The results of the qualitative phase identified that the flat knitting sector of Caxias do Sul invests in innovation, according to the market demands and fashion trends. The quantitative results, aimed to verify relationships between variables of innovation and industry identified correlations between the variables of innovation. In moderate positive correlations (0,5 ≤ p < 0,8) it was identified a correlation between the variable: annual revenues, with the variables: number of employees and amount invested in marketing innovation, the variable: number of employees with variable: amount invested in marketing innovation, the variable: skilled labor with the variables: amount invested in product innovation and value invested in organizational innovation, the variable: amount invested in product innovation with the variable: value invested in marketing innovation, the variable: amount invested in product innovation with the variable: amount invested in organizational innovation. In the weak positive correlations (0,1 ≤ p < 0,5) it was identified correlation between the variable: number of employees with variables: amount invested in product innovation, value invested in organizational innovation and the variable: skilled labor.

Em contrapartida ao fast fashion está o slow fashion, uma busca pela retomada dos meios de produção da cadeia têxtil, da valorização das técnicas tradicionais de criação e desenvolvimento e da desasceleração do consumo. Parte deste movimento incentiva a volta ao aprendizado de técnicas manuais de tecimento, como, por exemplo, o tricô, o crochê, a costura em máquinas domésticas, o tear e até a fiação. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo investigar e experimentar soluções ambientalmente sustentáveis para resíduos de malharia circular de algodão, utilizando técnicas manuais de tecimento, como o tricô e a matriz morfológica de Zwicky para desenvolver novos produtos de moda. Como matérias-primas principais foram utilizados resíduos de malha de três fontes: compra de novelos de produtores que trabalham diretamente com empresas que descartam as oréolas de malhas circulares; tecidos defeituosos descartados por empresas; peças descartadas por consumidores. A proposta para o desenvolvimento de novos produtos a partir de reuso de materiais, utilizou os seguintes métodos: o brainstorming, a matriz morfológica e o método de Pugh. Para a elaboração desse trabalho, foi feito um estudo bibliográfico da cadeira têxtil para compreender em quais momentos são gerados resíduos de malharia circular e como eles podem ser aproveitados para a elaboração do experimento deste estudo. Para direcionar ao ambientalmente sustentável, conceitos de sustentabilidade aplicados ao design e à moda, assim como conceitos de reciclagem, também foram estudados. A visão sobre técnicas manuais de tecimento e como estão inseridas no contexto atual de criatividade foi subsídio teórico para justificar a utilização do tricô para a experimentação e criação de peças de vestuário e acessórios. A geração de uma matriz morfológica de Fritz Zwicky foi a base metodológica para desenvolver novos produtos. O peso da matéria-prima resultou em produtos pesados para o uso em vestuário, mas aceitáveis para acessórios / Slow fashion opposes fast fashion as a search of reassuming the fashion productions means, valuing traditional handcrafts and slowing down consuming. This work aims to investigate and experiment environmentally sustainable solutions for circular knit waste, using handmade techniques like knitting and Zwickys morphological chart to develop new creative fashion garments. The works starts with a bibliographic study research on textile chain to understand in what circumstances the development of circular knit generates waste and how it can be used for this experiment. To base the study on environmentally sustainable solutions, a base study on fashion and design sustainability concept, as well as recycling, was also made. Handmade textiles, like knitting, and the creative view of handcrafts nowadays were also studied to justify it as a creative mean of experimentation for garments and accessories. Zwickys morphological chart generation was the methodological mean of developing new products. The use of circular knit waste to develop new products resulted in heavy garments, but it was well seen as a new yarn for handmade accessories

Camolution is a project that explores the camouflage pattern in a textile designcontext. The motive is to reinterpret an obsolete concealment function andinstead, to hide and reveal visual textile aspects within the pattern. Theprimary aim of this work is to develop a contemporary camouflage patterncollection of printed and knitted textiles, and to explore the concealmentfunction through visual deceptions. The patterns were developed witha method that uses a selection of rules in colour contrasts,style influences and textile proprieties to design a series of patternexperiments. The final pattern designs were screen printed, digitalprinted and knitted, and applied as garment prototypes. This part wasdone in collaboration with the fashion brand Björn Borg. The result setsout a collection of textiles and clothes connected by three differentconcepts of misled vision. It was found that the camouflage function in thiswork was an efficient tool to advertise the brand symbols within the textiles.This work proposes an alternative design method of using the camouflageconcept in textile design, contributing with new expressions, techniquesand qualities.

In the field of knitting, the binding weave knitting is mainly used for technical textiles, where the textiles have a high performance require- ment. Weave knit is constructed by placing an inlay thread between the knitting rows in a similar manner as a weft thread in a woven tex- tile. This work sets out to design three-dimensional weave-knitted tex- tiles in combination with intarsia and partial knit with the intention to develop surface pattern on three-dimensional shapes. The material used are effect yarn, monofilament and chenille yarn, which improve the properties of the textile. The three techniques enhance each other by their characteristics and give the possibility of formability. The re- sult shows an installation of textiles with three-dimensional character- istics, meant for spatial contexts which have the ability to function with light. The value of this work lies in the combination of the techniques and the application area in which the work is set.

Meniscal tears are the most common intra-articular injury of the knee joint. Due to the avascular zone with limited blood supply, treatment of the injury is a complex process. Today, research on the development of efficient treatments and meniscal replacements is of increasing interest. However, there are few alternatives of meniscal replacements available on the market and research has shown uncertain results in their ability to restore the natural biomechanics of the knee joint or prevent development of osteoarthritis. Furthermore there is no comparable method to evaluate tensile stresses caused by axial compressional load on a whole meniscus replacement. Therefore the possibility of knitted casing to contain, fixate and mechanically stabilize a cell seeded bioprinted gel and develop a methodology to characterize its compressional behaviour was analysed. By interlock knitting with segments of partial knit a 3D crescent-shaped biodegradable casing was produced mimicking the dimension of the medial meniscus. In the casing design, an Artelon® Flexband™ was incorporated functioning both as reinforcement at the peripheral rim and as fixation method. Moreover radial threads were added to the casing design by inclusion of weft inlays in the knitting pattern. In the non-destructive characterization of the compressional behaviour of the prototype, axial compressional forces of 10.82 N and 29.77 N were achieved. However the forces achieved were significantly lower if compared to the high force that is applied to the menisci in the knee joint. Furthermore a high influence of the coefficient of friction of the casing in the axial compressional force was concluded. Nevertheless refinements of the methodology are required to perform evaluation with comparable and reliable results.

Textile Hybrids explores knitted textiles by challenging properties of elasticity and flexibility through yarn composition, technical construction and combinations with wood. This study is placed in the field of textile spatial design and suggests experimental ways to explore three-dimensionality in a knitted textile by changing its properties through material synergies. The outcome is a three piece series of modular three-dimensional, standalone textile objects. The construction, assembly and flexibility of each piece make it possible to separate all components for reassembly, recycling or reusing, suggesting further research possibilities into more tangible contexts within textile spatial design, architecture, furniture design and product design. This study is derived from an interest to explore different ways a textile can exist on its own in a spatial context such as the home, without solely being the material covering a load-bearing framework i.e a couch or a chair.