In my thesis work I choose to define textile as a way of constructing, before seeing it as a material. I have explored the possibilities of building with the tension that is formed between the threads in weaving and knitting. By mixing the two techniques in the same fabric, I can benefit from their different qualities as the material produced creates the shape of the space.   As a textile designer studying spatial design, I have carried out this investigation to raise the importance and impact of textile in interior, and as an interior. By challenging the hierarchy of building construction materials and giving textile more value, I can acquire more sensual, tactile and maybe even unexpected qualities in the interiors I create.

Em contrapartida ao fast fashion está o slow fashion, uma busca pela retomada dos meios de produção da cadeia têxtil, da valorização das técnicas tradicionais de criação e desenvolvimento e da desasceleração do consumo. Parte deste movimento incentiva a volta ao aprendizado de técnicas manuais de tecimento, como, por exemplo, o tricô, o crochê, a costura em máquinas domésticas, o tear e até a fiação. O presente trabalho tem como objetivo investigar e experimentar soluções ambientalmente sustentáveis para resíduos de malharia circular de algodão, utilizando técnicas manuais de tecimento, como o tricô e a matriz morfológica de Zwicky para desenvolver novos produtos de moda. Como matérias-primas principais foram utilizados resíduos de malha de três fontes: compra de novelos de produtores que trabalham diretamente com empresas que descartam as oréolas de malhas circulares; tecidos defeituosos descartados por empresas; peças descartadas por consumidores. A proposta para o desenvolvimento de novos produtos a partir de reuso de materiais, utilizou os seguintes métodos: o brainstorming, a matriz morfológica e o método de Pugh. Para a elaboração desse trabalho, foi feito um estudo bibliográfico da cadeira têxtil para compreender em quais momentos são gerados resíduos de malharia circular e como eles podem ser aproveitados para a elaboração do experimento deste estudo. Para direcionar ao ambientalmente sustentável, conceitos de sustentabilidade aplicados ao design e à moda, assim como conceitos de reciclagem, também foram estudados. A visão sobre técnicas manuais de tecimento e como estão inseridas no contexto atual de criatividade foi subsídio teórico para justificar a utilização do tricô para a experimentação e criação de peças de vestuário e acessórios. A geração de uma matriz morfológica de Fritz Zwicky foi a base metodológica para desenvolver novos produtos. O peso da matéria-prima resultou em produtos pesados para o uso em vestuário, mas aceitáveis para acessórios / Slow fashion opposes fast fashion as a search of reassuming the fashion productions means, valuing traditional handcrafts and slowing down consuming. This work aims to investigate and experiment environmentally sustainable solutions for circular knit waste, using handmade techniques like knitting and Zwickys morphological chart to develop new creative fashion garments. The works starts with a bibliographic study research on textile chain to understand in what circumstances the development of circular knit generates waste and how it can be used for this experiment. To base the study on environmentally sustainable solutions, a base study on fashion and design sustainability concept, as well as recycling, was also made. Handmade textiles, like knitting, and the creative view of handcrafts nowadays were also studied to justify it as a creative mean of experimentation for garments and accessories. Zwickys morphological chart generation was the methodological mean of developing new products. The use of circular knit waste to develop new products resulted in heavy garments, but it was well seen as a new yarn for handmade accessories

The main purpose of this thesis was to investigate and characterize the use of piezoelectric yarn for use in textile (fingertip) pressure sensors in glove applications. Such applications could include healthcare, security and safety, game applications or intelligent control. Piezoelectric materials generate a voltage when pressed or squeezed. Poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) is a polymorphic material with piezoelectric properties. PVDF yarns were integrated into block sensors. These blocks consist of thermoplastic material glued to a knitted supporting fabric. The electrical signal given off by the PVDF yarn was measured with the help of an oscilloscope. The block sensor generated a distinguishable signal under a dynamic compression of 0.003 N, indicating that the structure is sensitive enough compared to the average male fingertip sensitivity threshold (0.0054N). / Program: Master programme in Textile Engineering

The purpose of this thesis is to explore the possibilities to create freestanding functional textile object that involves thepotential of traditional textile technique for creating three-dimensional textile structures. These three-dimensional textilestructures are used to generate the style of freestanding functional textile object and to create a product for the public room.The subculture and techniques involved in Thai textile techniques are the inspirations throughout this project. Forexample, sitting on the floor is prominent in this subculture and is, therefore; an initiation of the furniture development in thisproject. Meanwhile, Scandinavian design also influences the aesthetic and finds out the simple solution with its simplicityand functionalism. Nature is also a powerful source of inspiration in creating these three-dimensional knitted textiles.These factors influence the method used to explore techniques, colours and style. Moreover, sociology is considered to guidethe design process and to determine the style of freestanding textile object, for instance; the relationships among people.“Texniture” is a name given to the freestanding functional textile object and is a kind of the furniture created in this project. The resultshows how three-dimensional textiles can be manipulated in space, and aims to give audiences a new understanding of textiles.Texniture 1 / Program: Konstnärligt masterprogram i mode- och textildesign

During the last decade medical applications of textile sensors have been growing rapidly and textile sensors are the focal research point for many sensor projects. Textile sensors are still not available as a mainstream product to replace conventional electric sensors and electrodes. Textile sensors can be integrated in a textile garment to measure vital signs of a human being. In this regard stretch sensors are able to measure breathing rate of a person. In this project we use seamless knitting technique to make stretch sensors using conductive fibers. The resistance difference between stretching and relaxing of these sensors gives a pattern for human breathing. Four knitting structures with different conductive fibers are made and tested with cyclic tester to construct a graph between resistance and time to find the knitting structure which gives the best results. Tests are also done to check the results after washing. These sensors can be used in breathing monitoring of patients during daily life. / Program: Master Programme in Textile Technology

Knitting is a class of techniques for production of textile fabrics by inter-looping yarns withthe use of hooked needles. The new loops are created when the yarns drawn through thepreviously formed loops. An apparatus for two needles with adjustable geometry resemblingthe knitting process in weft knitting machines has been constructed and mounted in anordinary tensile testing machine in order to study stress build-up, fibre damage, needle wearetc. The merits of the knittability test-rig set-up are the possibilities to test the performance ofthe yarns with the geometry of the machine and to simulate and identify some of the problemsthat can occur between needles and yarn in the knitting process. Well-defined mechanicalconditions with the static pre-load weight and the possibilities to identify the location of theevents of damage on the fibres during the testing of the specimens and to do furtherexamination before knitting are some obvious merits. The knittability of some extreme yarns,PET-monofilaments, carbon fibre roving and aramid yarn has been studied with respect tofriction and bending stiffness. Friction and bending characteristics exhibit viscoellasticfeatures. The needles have diameters of the same order of magnitude as the diameters ofmonofilaments for example for use in knitted spacer fabrics and the results of this workillustrate strong influence of the fibre diameter on the knittability. / <p>Program: Magisterutbildning i textilteknologi</p><p>Uppsatsnivå: D</p>

During the last decade medical applications of textile sensors have been growing rapidly and textile sensors are the focal research point for many sensor projects. Textile sensors are still not available as a mainstream product to replace conventional electric sensors and electrodes. Textile sensors can be integrated in a textile garment to measure vital signs of a human being. In this regard stretch sensors are able to measure breathing rate of a person. In this project we use seamless knitting technique to make stretch sensors using conductive fibers. The resistance difference between stretching and relaxing of these sensors gives a pattern for human breathing. Four knitting structures with different conductive fibers are made and tested with cyclic tester to construct a graph between resistance and time to find the knitting structure which gives the best results. Tests are also done to check the results after washing. These sensors can be used in breathing monitoring of patients during daily life. / Program: Master programme in Textile Technology

This work places itself in the field of textile design, knitting and three-dimensional objects. The primary motive is to investigate flat knitting as a technique to design form. The aim is to explore the possibilities within flat knitting in order to explore the relationship between knit and non-textile components to achieve three-dimensional forms for sitting. The design process consisted of experimental sketching on a flat knitting machine and small prototypes were produced. Rib, plain knit and mesh structures were tested in combination with partial knit, intarsia and plating. These bindings and techniques were combined with steel constructions to explore possibilities for shaping and function. By integrating a non-textile component as support in the knitted samples three-dimensional objects are created. The outcome of the study is a collection of knitted objects. Common for these is that they all suggest a function in relation to seating. The textile in the construction serves a function, an aesthetic expression and as the connection material in the construction. For further development, the possibility of creating textiles for furniture with capabilities for changes in expression and function can be explored.

This thesis focuses on the ways in which Janet Morton’s installations explore geographic and architectural spatial arrangements, and the ways in which these arrangements reproduce hierarchies of gender, race, and class. As cultural geographers and architectural historians have argued, and as I argue in the context of Morton’s work, architecture and geography exist in a reciprocal relationship with the social context in which they exist. Consequently, social histories that amass in politicized spaces referred to as “home,” such as gendered suburban houses, urban shelters, segregated neighbourhoods, are often marginalized. By discussing the way Morton’s work alludes to marginalized social and spatial histories within home environments, I demonstrate the ways that mainstream understanding of the subordination of marginalized groups is informed by sociospatial histories. / Thesis (Master, Art History) -- Queen's University, 2007-08-07 15:32:00.667

The main focus of this study was to explore how personal constructions, consisting of latent and conscious schema, and obtained from a culturally sensitive interpretation of the RCS, informed the transactional resilience of Black South African adolescents. This study was motivated in view of limited knowledge available about the (i) processes that are generic to the resilience-promoting transactions of Black South African adolescents and (ii) to potentiate insight into an adolescent’s construction of personal meaning of her conscious and unconscious experiences that may not always be easily recognised in her overt behaviour or by self-report measures often used in South African resilience research. Six Black South African adolescents aged 14 to 16 years volunteered to take part in this multiple case study. The participants were identified as resilient by an advisory panel consisting of learners and educators at an English-medium school in the Vaal Triangle area. In this essentially qualitative study, qualitative data obtained from an unstructured individual interview, unstructured observations, and a follow-up interview were integrated with the data obtained from a culturally sensitive, conceptual interpretation of these Black adolescents’ Rorschach protocols. The structural, quantitative data obtained from specific indicators in Exner’s Comprehensive System were interpreted in a culturally sensitive manner and integrated with the qualitative data obtained from the Rorschach protocols. A culturally sensitive, conceptual framework for interpreting Rorschach indicators associated with adolescents’ transactional resilience was provided. These findings indicated individual and ecological protective resources well known within South African resilience research. Findings that contributed new understanding of the transactional processes associated with Black South African adolescent resilience were also obtained. Four case-specific self-reflective strategies were identified, namely, emotional stoicism, frequent introspection, honouring the past, and adopting a new identity. These selfreflective strategies served as the participants’ unique ways of compensating for their adversity-informed schema as well as encouraging them to navigate towards the sustained support of specific significant others and resilience-promoting ecological resources. The participants indicated that attachment challenges brought about repressed feelings and specific security needs, which shaped their resilience-promoting navigation and enabled them to self-knit in a resilient way. / Thesis (Ph.D. (Education))--North-West University, Vaal Triangle Campus, 2011